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Is this engine mount done for?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34340
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:40am


Topic: Is this engine mount done for?
Posted By: nate2001SN
Subject: Is this engine mount done for?
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 1:42am
Pulled my transmission and jacked up the rear of the engine in the process. I loosened the pinch bolts on the engine mounts to allow the engine to rotate up, but it appears one side didn't free up and rotate.
Do I need to replace it? I'm kinda thinking it will straighten back out when set down--obviously will need to check alignment though.

The bent one--


The good one



Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 9:38am
It's fine - the rubber is doing the flexing. Good luck on the tranny rebuild. Make sure & do an accurate shaft alignment when you reinstall.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 9:44am
You loosened the nut but I can see you didn’t tap the pinch bolt in. Most of the time you have to give the bolt a little tap to move the pinch bolt in to release the mount stud.


Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 11:16am
SNobsessed thanks, I sent the transmission off to Fantastic Finish Marine and have heard nothing about good things from them so I'm just looking forward to getting everything back together now.

gun-driver I guess I'm not quite following you on tapping the pinch bolt. Unless I'm confused on what the pinch bolt is (which I probably am) I thought it was the threaded stud in the block where the horizontal shaft to the engine mount goes in (can barely see it behind the spark plug wires in the pics). Or is it the larger nut on the top of the vertical engine mount stud... because I only loosed those when I saw the one was bending/flexing. So that may have been my problem to begin with if that's the case


Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 11:39am
It's the horizontal bolt in the mount attached to the block. After you loosen it you need to tap it a few times with a hammer to expand the bore where the horizontal eye bolt (heim joint) is inserted into. That allows the eye bolt to rotate as you jack one end of the motor up. It's frozen in the bore and didn't rotate and that's why the outer bushing bolt got twisted.


Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 12:10pm
Gotcha, that was my problem then. Thanks a bunch.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 1:14pm
If you remove the pinch bolt and clean it up then apply some anti seize and make sure the pineal type mount rotates and slides in and out freely it makes it a whole lot easier to do a shaft alignment. Which by the way is in your near future when the transmission comes back.
Now would also be a good time to tear down the rear mounts clean and anti-seize, it sure makes alignment jobs easier when the mounts move easily.


Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 2:34pm
Awesome, thanks for the advise. I'm not really lookin forward to alignment, but I do want to have everything ready to go for when I get the transmission back. Can't wait to get back on the water.


Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 2:37pm
My cutlass bushing was suspect also so I'm replacing that and re-packing the shaft seal and rudder while I have everything apart. Hopefully will all run out nice and smooth when I get it back together.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by nate2001SN nate2001SN wrote:

I'm not really lookin forward to alignment,

It's really easy as long as you understand the concept of keeping the shaft straight. Have you looked at the video??

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Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 3:29pm
I actually haven't yet, but I've seen several posts referencing it. I'll definitely watch it first though.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 6:51pm
Go to the video section and you will find the alignment 101.

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Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-09-2014 at 8:53pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

If you remove the pinch bolt and clean it up then apply some anti seize and make sure the pineal type mount rotates and slides in and out freely it makes it a whole lot easier to do a shaft alignment. Which by the way is in your near future when the transmission comes back.
Now would also be a good time to tear down the rear mounts clean and anti-seize, it sure makes alignment jobs easier when the mounts move easily.


+1 Sticky mounts make the adjustments very frustrating.

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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow


Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: September-10-2014 at 9:22pm
Thought I'd follow up. After pulling the rear mounts apart for cleaning and watching the alignment video it was pretty easy to understand the alignment process. The front right mount did take some extra persuading to free up, even with the pinch bolt properly released.

I was kind of surprised that the engine is pushed nearly all the way to the right on the mounts (I was dumb and never looked to see where it was prior to pulling the tranny). But the shaft/coupler is properly aligned and the boat pulls hard with no vibrations.

The Transmission was a little late getting back to me which set me back a couple weeks for when I was able to install it due to other obligations, but I couldn't be happier with the rebuild and am more than happy to be back on the water.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-10-2014 at 9:54pm
It is not uncommon for either stringers or log/strut to be placed just crooked enough from the factory to require a good portion of the mounts range... But I assume that you aligned the engine to the shaft where the shaft spin freely in the bore of the strut? If not, you just dialed in a bunch of misalignment.

I am also assuming that you checked to see that the shaft was fairly concentric to the log when spinning freely in the strut?

Misalignment will quell vibration, not cause (or exacerbate) it.


Posted By: nate2001SN
Date Posted: September-10-2014 at 11:22pm
Yep, I did make sure it was concentric and spinning freely. After buttoning everything up it still spins freely as well. Good to know about the vibrations though, I just assumed a misaligned boat would vibrate badly.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 12:23pm
Originally posted by nate2001SN nate2001SN wrote:


I was kind of surprised that the engine is pushed nearly all the way to the right on the mounts (I was dumb and never looked to see where it was prior to pulling the tranny).


I had a similar problem with my '95 after my wife had her little episode with the rocks.
Every thing lined up right but the motor was shifted all the way right.
I found that the shaft was not in line with the rudder it was off centered when looked at from behind the rudder. Some adjustment with the strut got everything in line.
So what I'm saying is to look at the shaft from the rear and see if it straight down the center line of the boat. You should be able to look straight down the rudder, shaft end, strut, Skaggs. Hope that makes sense.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Skaggs.

Great ***************ing hair.


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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 11:53pm
If the prop shaft is centered in the log, that's as good as it gets for strut position.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: missicbc
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 9:29am
bolt a little tap to move the pinch bolt in to release the mount stud. http://www.goldentok.com/" rel="nofollow - Fut 15 Coins


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 9:38am
Originally posted by nate2001SN nate2001SN wrote:

But the shaft/coupler is properly aligned and the boat pulls hard with no vibrations.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Misalignment will quell vibration, not cause (or exacerbate) it.

Correct. Plus 1

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