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Gel Coat Damage Repair advice needed

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34377
Printed Date: September-26-2024 at 1:57pm


Topic: Gel Coat Damage Repair advice needed
Posted By: MrMcD
Subject: Gel Coat Damage Repair advice needed
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 10:33pm
4 Deer decided to run out in front of our cars headed home from the lake Friday night. I was following my wife and pulling the boat.
She had to slam on the brakes as Deer jumped out in front of her.
Unfortunately I saw a huge Doe running down the left side of the road and glanced at it right as the other deer jumped in front of my wife.
She barely stopped before running over 2 fawns, she waited as the fawns got out of the way.
I looked back from the large doe and saw she was in a panic stop and slammed on the brakes in our BMW X5, the trailer brakes locked the tires and the X5 tires were howling trying to stop the load.
My fault, I should not have glanced at the Doe, that extra 1 second could have avoided damage. If I had 5 more feet we would have not wrecked but I was still moving at 10 MPH when I hit her in our Tahoe.
Not a really hard hit, the air bags did not blow.
The Tahoe looks fine, just a scratch on the rear chrome bumper.
The BMW X5 will need a Hood, both fenders and a grill. Minor damage to all of those parts.
Now for the really bad part. Our 95 Ski Nautique purchased in December a former garage queen with 100 hours on it, now has 120 hours, and in perfect shape, no scratches, no fading, it was perfect. It came loose on the trailer and came forward 3 feet.
Both rear straps snapped, the boat came up and over the twin poles that locate the boat on the trailer. The caps on the pole tops wore through and metal poles were digging into our bow on both sides. The poles pushed up the rubber bumper guard and scratched through our nice red gel coat stripe and some of the nice white gel coat hull in addition to scratching through the white and read stripes that are part of the detail on this White and red boat.
The prop hit the trailer as the front lifted and bent one blade pretty good. (Acme 224 4 blade).
The trailer will be a straight forward fix and I will look at adding a bar to stop the boat from coming forward should this happen again.
I feel the boat should never have moved forward with a 10 MPH crash.
The Trailer is a DHM, local trailer company, looks good, but not nearly as safe as a Nautique trailer I am learning.

Sorry to be so windy, I am venting.

Any ideas on how to best fix the factory pin stripes and Gel Coat that was damaged? I will try and post a couple pics. My wife is very upset about the X5 damage, I am upset about the Nautique, it was so clean I had to buy it in December, it kills me to have hurt it.
I am trying to post pictures.



Replies:
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 10:45pm
That sounds horrible. Glad to hear no one was hurt. I'd search for a reputable gel coat shop nearby and get a professional opinion and price. If it's not that bad, then Spectrum offers premixed repair kits for a very reasonable price.

Once you get some pics up, people will be able to offer some better advice.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 10:52pm
Really sorry to hear that. I'm crying for you honestly because I hate to see that happen. My attitude is to ruin the daily driven in an accident but don't scratch the toy it's pulling. If it makes you feel any better, the day after I bought my SN, I was pulling into drive way and the drain pipe for the road right away collapsed just as my SN axle was on it. Boat sat in the road, laying on prop, shaft and rudder.

As far as fixing the gelcoat I am the last person to give advice but feel your pain.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:06pm
Pics of damage, not bad but it was perfect. The trailer stop poles were straight before the crash, the bumper pads covered in black carpet were 3inches higher on the poles before the crash, too bad they did not stay in place they could have protected the boat better.

Sorry I shrank the photo's and they still will not attach.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:11pm
Just find a good gel guy I'm sure there are plenty out in CA. and you won't even know it happened.
To make you feel better my wife hit some rocks by the ramp in our '95 Signature Edition...

and dinged the prop
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/bentshaft001.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

it also put an ever so slight bend in the strut and shaft
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/bentshaft005.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

along with some minor scratches in the gel
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/bentshaft004.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/bentshaft003.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

but now you can't even tell anything ever happened, and we're still married!!!
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/95repair001.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/95repair002.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Hope you feel better


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:20pm
WOW, I better shut up, yours makes mine look fine. How did you post the pictures, I have done it before but it keeps telling me there is a problem with my source?
My insurance is $1,000 deductible so I am deciding to use it of fix it myself. Yours turned out great.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:29pm
Posted through photo bucket.
Since the prop took a hit check the shaft its probably bent on the end after the strut.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:30pm
Glad no one was hurt. Use it the rest of summer & fix it in the fall. I personally could never get gel to color match, but maybe you can get a premix to work OK, since your boat was well cared for (not faded).

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:48pm
Sorry to hear of your troubles but echo Chris's sediments.Find
a good shop and take it in. You and I have the same color.My
lift dropped chipping the chine. Was going to take it in to get
repaired but the shop was too busy.Decided to repair myself
figuring if it didnt turn out I could then take it in when they
weren't as busy. Got my color from Spectrum who I was told by
them they get it from the company who supplies Correct Craft.
Turns out it's a little too dark but being where it is,is hardly
noticeable.Yours being so nice and if in a more noticeable spot
you would not be happy with the match.





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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-11-2014 at 11:51pm
I pulled the bad prop, put a dial indicator on the shaft, run out was still at .0015, same as on install last January and will still turn with one finger so it is pretty straight.
The Guide poles used to be straight up and no curve in them prior to the crash. These photo's are before we floated the boat and returned it to the right place on the trailer.
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Passsidedamage2smallsize_zps121b3bde.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/DamagePasssidesmallsize_zps2704638c.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/BoatdamagePasssideScratches1small-Copy_zps37188dba.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-12-2014 at 12:03am
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

I pulled the bad prop, put a dial indicator on the shaft, run out was still at .0015, same as on install last January and will still turn with one finger so it is pretty straight.


Well see that's already good news.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-12-2014 at 12:14am
Photo bucket worked thanks for the tip.


Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-12-2014 at 8:14pm
McD - We have the same trailer,   I am interested in what you come up with for a fix on the front.   Glad you had straps on the back, that could have been really ugly


Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 11:37am
Since I'm assuming that insurance would pay for this I'd say you should take it to a good shop. Or, if you are not wanting to go with insurance, you could easily fix that yourself. Unlike Gary S I've had very good luck with color matching from Spectrum Color. They are a pretty penny, but worth it in my opinion. From those photos above it looks like you got through the first layer of gel down to the white, but no further. That's good news. Put on the new gel then sand, buff, wax and it will look good. Those stripes will have to be entirely replaced.

You may have some bent screws in the rub rail. My first attempt would be to remove inner rub rail (you have to start this from the back) to get access to the screws in the area. Remove the bent screws and replace with straight ones. I bet the rail would move back to the original flat look. Those marks will stay there on the rail, but besides you I would imagine nobody would ever notice.

Glad nobody was hurt and the damage is minimal.

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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow


Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 5:55pm
Mark,
Are you sure avbout that 10mph crash speed??? Snapping hold downs and bending those bow stops like that???? Id so, I'd share these photos with DHM and tell them their trailer is made like S**t !!! looks like the pads are designed way to wide for the bow. To much stress wanting to flaten them being on the side that much....

This is horrible to see let alone happen to anyone of us. I'm sure she'll get put back to original condition. Glad no one was hurt..

Curious, what does the front of the truck look like if 10mph did this much damage to the boat???

-------------
05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique
had:96' SNOB
had:76' Nautique
had 77 Tique

       



Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 6:08pm
how do you care for your trailer bunks? One member on here (name omitted) treated his with a silicone spray years ago and that slid his boat right off the back of the trailer and on to the dry part of the ramp. You have any kind of slick-maker that you put on your bunks to facilitate loading?

That's my only guess Moj.

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bring the ruckus
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air


Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 6:21pm
Originally posted by IAughtNaut IAughtNaut wrote:

how do you care for your trailer bunks? One member on here (name omitted) treated his with a silicone spray years ago and that slid his boat right off the back of the trailer and on to the dry part of the ramp. You have any kind of slick-maker that you put on your bunks to facilitate loading?

That's my only guess Moj.


Good point +1. Either that of the bow stop is made with paper towel rolls

-------------
05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique
had:96' SNOB
had:76' Nautique
had 77 Tique

       



Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 7:47pm
I think the boat went way forward and then settled back down on the bunks... that's the only way that I can figure he scratched the bottom side of the boot stripe aft of the final resting place...   that boat traveled a long way, then slammed down onto the guide posts on the rebound.   keeping the boat in place would have required some down force at the front during a crash, so I imagine that some sort of turnbuckle or more solid strapping is needed? Didn't Hollywood have a post a while back about running the front winch strap under the bow stops to give some down force when trailering?   



Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 9:19pm
Look at the picture of my boat above,the trailer came with a strap that holds the front down and back. That and higher guide poles maybe like the older trailers would help.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 10:01pm
The poles and what not, there's no internal rust is there? Because obviously that'll make them bend easily.


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 10:12pm
My trailer has a rigid turnbuckle that hooks to the bow hook. I hook it up with the winch strap when I put the boat on the trailer. Not sure how much it would have helped in your type of accident, but it seems better than just the winch strap alone.

I'd post a pic of it, but I can't. Keep getting an error message.




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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 11:05pm
I worked out of town all week and I was not able to log on, left the password home, my mistake.
First, the actual crash was at 10 MPH + - 2 MPH in my estimate.
I know in less than 5 feet more I would have been at a dead stop with no contact. Second, the brakes on the X5 are huge as are the tires and I was pushing the brake as hard as I could, the X5 tires were howling even with anti lock functioning and so were the trailer tires so it was stopping fast from 45 mph.
I think the car and truck brakes were enough to start moving the boat on the trailer. The bunks were wet but never waxed or any other procedure to make them slick but I have only owned this boat since December this year. Previous boats, put 1,500 hours on our first Nautique, 800 Hours on our Malibu then bought this one in December with 100 hours on the meter.

The X5 has a full plastic front end, the Tahoe had a receiver in the hitch at the time of the accident and the receiver punched a hole through the plastic but hit no metal. The headlights were not touched, the bumper, hood and fenders look great from 5 feet but close inspection shows the hit. No airbags blew. It was a minor hit.
This trailer is slick, the first time pulling it out of the water I noticed the boat slipping back and had to back in and strap it firm to keep it on the trailer while pulling out. My old Nautique on a Nautique trailer never did this, My wife would idle onto the trailer and I would drive up the ramp never leaving the truck. We must have launched that boat 5-600 times in 1,500 hours use. We would hook it to the trailer when we parked to dry the boat off and unload.
It did this with the OEM bunks and the new bunks and carpet I installed after 8 years abuse.
The poles on this new nautique are not rusted at all but are bent now, this boat was a garage queen, no rust, no fade.
The poles on the front had a quick release set up so they could tilt forward to install a boat cover while on the trailer. This system rattled while trailering and I had pulled the lock pin and replaced it with a 5/8 x 5 inch grade 5 bolt which held and did not bend. This bolt eliminated some trailer noise while moving.
The carpeted boards on the poles slipped down as the boat slid back down onto the trailer, you can see the paint scratches on the poles, it looks like the boards slipped down 3-4 inches from the stock height.
I patched a small gel coat chip in my old Nautique but this one involves 2 colors and I am afraid to mess up a nice boat. I am leaning towards a shop for this repair and I do most repairs at home normally.


Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: August-16-2014 at 10:38am
That trailer failed the test!
Sorry for your loss, but a good shop should put it all back to new condition.
Get some estimates, you'll be surprised how much it will add up to! Might even get one to cover or split the deductible with you, never hurts to ask.
Could have been lots worse. Years ago, my wife and I went out on a CHP tow with a flatbed to retrieve a boat. Curious as to what happened, the owner told us he'd put in a new engine plus lots of other stuff, greased his bearings, and tightened them up, forgot to back off the axle nuts 1/2 a turn. Going 60 mph, the wheels locked up, trailer slid sideways, and hit an exit guard rail. He looked into his rearview mirror, and saw the trailer bend in a "U" shape. The boat launched! It passed the truck upside down (said it looked like a flying saucer), and ended up down in the median 100 feet. It was a crunchy critter.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-16-2014 at 1:47pm
When I started this thread I was really upset to have hurt this boat. I looked for a year to find the right one to buy, while still suffering in our Malibu. It was actually a very impressive ski boat but drove terrible, glad to have a Nautique again.
We did get off very easy, it could have been worse.
The trailer did fail but the boat shop I visited yesterday to look at the damage told me he has seen accidents with wet bunks where the boat went right over the trailer and into the car in front so we did get off easy. I will find a way to add a stop on the front of this trailer for added protection and the new rear tie down straps will be stronger for sure. I think if I keep it from starting to move it will not have the momentum to bend the poles and come over the top again.
I am also thinking of heavier wall poles for the front boat stop, since the original poles are no where near strong enough.
The trailer is a DHM and of course they are out of business.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-16-2014 at 1:58pm
If you can gusset the poles forward to the winch mount, that should do it.

I had same emotions when my boat was run over 4 years ago. No one can pick out the damaged area but me.

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-16-2014 at 5:55pm
On this trailer the winch comes off when I pull the removable hitch off the front. I have a couple idea's but have taken no action yet.


Posted By: NAUTIQUEjunky
Date Posted: August-18-2014 at 10:07pm
Hate to see that man.. I can tell you that u are looking at some $$ to fix it those rubrails alone are just under $600! And then the trailer bow stop gouged through the colored gelcoat on your stripes.. that will be another costly fix and if your prop is trashed its prob a $2000 total repair.

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1977 MasterCraft Stars&Stripes
1994 Ski Nautique
2000 Super Air Nautique
1986 Ski Nautique 2001
1999 Sport Nautique gt40 current










Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 3:35pm
Estimate came in at 3,600 not counting the trailer repair. The good news it still drives great, I put the 4 blade OJ back on for the boat test. I liked the now bent Acme 224 much better, it was smoother with less noise and pulled harder than the 4 blade OJ 14 x 16.

PS: maybe overkill but I added tie downs from my car hauler for this boat trip. Strapped the back and front with the heavy tie downs.
I think they are rated at 10-15,000 pounds each.
Not permanent but at least I knew it would stay put on this trip and until I fix the trailer.
If I had something similar before the wreck the boat would have had zero damage.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-02-2014 at 2:46pm
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

McD - We have the same trailer,   I am interested in what you come up with for a fix on the front.   Glad you had straps on the back, that could have been really ugly


I have looked at a variety of solutions to the Trailer Stop failure.
I spoke to California Trailer Works in Sacramento, they took over the former DHM trailers that built my trailer in 95.
CTW says I should add new bar in the front with a roller that works as stop just above the front tie ring on the boat. I was almost sold on going this way until I looked around the yard and they had one boat with this same described set up that had bent and the boat came forward on that trailer also.

Classic Boat Works, who is fixing the fiberglass for me says the only sure way to lock it down is to put a chain connection that ties in a V, the chain would attach to the trailer 2 feet behind the bow eye and 2 feet in front of the bow eye. They say to have the chains set so they have the least amount of play possible so the boat can't go forward or back. Classic Boat Works does work on some of the old Wood classic boats from the Lake Tahoe Boat Show, some of these are worth huge money.
They claim a boat with wet bunks will launch forward in an accident and once it starts moving forward it is very hard to stop. Rear straps allow forward movement before they become tight, I searched and the strongest 1 inch straps I could find are rated at 1,000 pounds most are only 400-800 pounds and this is not enough to stop a sliding boat on wet bunks. Both my rear straps were 800 pound rated and both snapped in this 10 mph impact. I have ordered the heavier rear straps but I am going to add the safety chains to the nose of the trailer. I would have no boat damage if I had a better tie down. The Chain will be ugly but I think it will be secure. Hope this helps some of you.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-02-2014 at 2:54pm
Turnbuckle or winch strap to the front, and a chain or flat bar to the back (or even another turnbuckle). All that "v chain" concept sounds loud and sloppy. The keel pad on your trailer also hurt you, pushing the boat up instead of just dead forward.

Older MC trailers and Sanger trailers I have seen have the flat bar. It is usually laying down not in use!

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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-02-2014 at 3:34pm
Our 1987 Malibu had the same thing, a nice looking chrome flat bar that attached the boat nose to the trailer. A little hard to hook up, you had to get in the water while loading the boat and hook it while the driver of the boat moved forward or aft. If the boat was not floating you could not locate it properly to hook up the flat bar. It was secure once hooked up. The chains might be noisy and will be ugly but I think I will try them for peace of mind. On the 95 Ski Nautique the lift rings in the back are covered by the exhaust safety system, the exhaust is diverted behind the swim plate but you can't get to the lift rings from the bottom so the rear trailer tie downs attach to the rear swim platform supports. This location seems weak to me, I would like to tie to the rear lifting rings but from the bottom. Anyone else find a solution to this. I fully understand the reason for the exhaust protection. A good friend almost lost his son to carbon monoxide. They were taking firewood to the campsite and had the firewood in plastic bags on the rear swim platform of the boat. My friends son was holding the bags while sitting in the rear seat and they were just idling along. Suddenly their son stopped talking with them and looked like he fell asleep. They stopped and figured out what happened. Started assisted breathing and called for a life flight helicopter. He turned our fine but spent the night in the hospital on oxygen and they almost lost him. Put a huge scare in our Water Ski group. We all pay more attention to exhaust fumes since this event 10 years ago.


Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: October-03-2014 at 3:11am
My friends dad was going down the freeway once when a nice doggie ran across the freeway he attempted to avoid the dog and locked em up sliding the wagoneer sideways into the ice plant median and then rolling over a few times....the lesson was...if some animal runs out in front of you just hit them...they are not worth your life
He vividly remembered seeing his tool box fly between him and his friend out through the windshield narrowly missing them both.

I would just hit the deer next time.

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This is the life


Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: October-03-2014 at 3:15am
Also no trailer loads like a CC trailer. It is designed as a drive on...most trailers are designed as float on

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This is the life


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-03-2014 at 3:17pm
Out 78 Ski Nautique had the Nautique built trailer and it was a true drive on.
The 95 trailer made by DHM is a great looking trailer but was mass produced and many brands of boats sit on DHM trailers. Looks good but universal fit trailer does not perform as well for drive on and will need some help to properly keep a boat from sliding forward in an accident.   The repair shop says the boat on wet bunks is like having the bunks greased, he says he has seen far worse accidents than ours.


Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: October-03-2014 at 6:13pm
thanks for sharing... I can see the v chain Idea working, you might try wire rope and turnbuckles to keep the noise down and the look more attractive.   



Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-04-2014 at 3:30pm
Good idea, I will ponder this, whatever I go with I really want 5,000 pound break strength, minimum. I will check and see what a turnbuckle can hold. I think more than 5,000 is overkill as the eye in the nose of the Nautique will fail.
The system has to be fast to hook also, I do not wish to spend time wading in cold water fighting a hook up. Did that with our Malibu for 20 years and hated it the whole time.

The boat is supposed to be back next Friday. I look forward to having it nice again.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-04-2014 at 6:55pm
I don't see why you couldn't load normally then hook up your tie down up top.

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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-05-2014 at 2:27am
We were pulling out this year after driving on and the boat slid back as I pulled out, I have been nervous since then. We had the boat in gear pushing forward as it came out of the water. Maybe not enough throttle. Done that many times with our old Nautique but I don't trust this trailer for easy outs.


Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: October-05-2014 at 4:49am
Would it not be an easy fix to stop the boat from moving forward to hook up a chain or cable from the bow eye, back down to the frame below the bow eye? Just as a precaution.

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https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-05-2014 at 10:25pm
That is the plan.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 6:38pm
Update, boat now repaired, trailer repaired and a Safety Chain added to the front of the trailer to avoid this damage in the future.
The Carpets on the front stops were burned and damaged from the boat impact, I was going to get new carpet and then decided to try hitting the burn marks with a wire brush. They turned out fine and I put them back on with no new carpet as the photo shows. Last thing to do is replace the prop with the Acme 224 when the shop finishes that repair.
Classic Craft in Sacramento did the glass/gel coat repair and I am very happy with the results and color match.
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/BoatdamagePasssideScratches1small-Copy_zps37188dba.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Passsidedamage2smallsize_zps121b3bde.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Frontstopbars1_zpsca6f8eae.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/FrontPassSiderepair1_zps9f77305d.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Frontstopchain2_zps4f5cf1fb.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Frontstopchain1_zps3e282e11.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/FrontChaininstall3_zps45d2167a.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Damagedfrontstoppadcarpet1_zps56a466b4.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/mmcdona2006/media/Stoppadsbothfixedwithwirebrush_zps873e9077.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">






Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 11:48pm
Can any part of that chain touch the hull? When your driving the chain will be flopping around and may rub on the hull especially out on the highway. May want to find a piece of clear vinyl tubing to slide over the chain so if it does rub on the hull you won't be back at the gel coat repair shop again. Just a thought, the repair looks really great.


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 12:13am
gotta agree with Mark...repair looks sweet.



john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 12:19am
The boat repair looks great. Only thing I would suggest would be to get a hook that uses a pin and a cotter key to connect to the chain,those threaded links are not that strong and just might be the weak link

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 12:38am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

The boat repair looks great. Only thing I would suggest would be to get a hook that uses a pin and a cotter key to connect to the chain,those threaded links are not that strong and just might be the weak link

I agree with Gary that the repair sure looks great.
I also agree with him about the hook. Whoever did the chain set up sure doesn't know what he's doing.


Or at least use a shackle:


I also suggest a decent eyebolt with a shackle and not that weak U bolt for anchoring.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 6:05am
Wow, you guys are tough.
Keep in mind the Original manufacturer of the trailer had nothing there to stop the boat from moving forward except the poles and nose pad which failed in a 10 mph crash.

I did all the install so the buck stops here.

I looked at many options. This chain can't hit the hull. Stretched it misses by 4 inches unless the boat slips to the rear. It only pulls forward 3/4 inch and it is tight with no slack with the boat sitting normal on the trailer. Could be an issue hooking up if the boat is not parked well.
The hook and chain are rated at 2,500 lb working load and 4-4,400 break strength.
I bought two of the 3/8 anchor pins like in the middle picture above and they were rated 3,000 but did not fit, would not go through the hole of the hook or the chain. The smaller 3/16 anchor pins were rated only 500 lbs so I chose not to go that way.
I looked at the eye-bolt for the frame and canceled that idea because of the direction of load. Eye-bolts are very strong with a straight pull but can fracture with a side load. I have a side load.

The U bolt used is rated at 2,200 and when pulled on it should bend forward if needed but hopefully not break. If I am wrong on this thought let me know.
Although the chain looks loose it moves only 3/4 of an inch before it is tight. I figured the boat would hit the stop poles and pads in that same inch of movement and my stopping power would at least increase by the amount of strength in the poles helping keep the boat in place.
You are right about the quick link chain connector it is 5/16 and only rated at 1500 lbs, again the 3/8 would not fit. That is my weak link but heck, how strong is the U bolt in the fiberglass at some point it will rip out and I don't know how strong it may be.
I also upgraded the two rear straps since the ones in the accident both snapped. I now have two 2,000 lb straps in the rear.
Lastly I replaced the winch strap since it was 20 years old, new strap rated at 4,000 break strength and 2,600 load.

Perfect no, but better than the zero I got from the factory design.
I have extra chain so I will look into a hook with the clevis pin and maybe upgrade, I want to keep the spring lock type just for ease of quick connecting.

Thanks for the feed back, I am open to improvements. I considered welding the chain to the frame but nixed it because I did not feel it was needed. I have a wire feed and a 220 stick welder so that would have been an easy task except for the painting necessary to clean up.


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 8:22am
repair looks great





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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 9:27am
"Note: Capacities listed are for vertical lifting only. Eyebolts with shoulder can be used for angular lifting up to 45°, but the capacity will be significantly reduced. For example, when lifting a 1,000 lb. load at a 45° angle, you must choose an eyebolt with a capacity of at least 5,600 lbs."


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Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 9:54am
Seems like the weak link may be the bow eye. How much load can it handle at the point where is will be pulling from? That's a lot better than what was there. You can't protect yourself from everything unless you custom build a trailer. We had a trailer come off the hitch this spring going 55 mph down the interstate. I tapped the brakes and the winch mount on the non Correct Craft trailer hit the truck bumper and kept the boat from hitting the truck. Had the boat been on a Correct Craft trailer, regardless of whether it had the stop like you have or the smaller one that is lower on the stem, the bow would have crashed into the tail gate.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 11:35am
Sounds like fun Bruce!

Mark, the repair looks good. You could have avoided drilling the trailer altogether with just looping chain under that C channel and going back up to the bow eye.

The bow eye is very tough, lots of fiberglass behind it, I wouldn't be concerned with it ever coming out unless you are swinging the boat from it!

Sleeving the chain is still a good idea because it will inevitably scratch up the trailer when disconnected. It doesn't look like there is a convenient spot to hook it to when the boat is off.

Better than before, that's what matters. How strong it needs to be is up to you.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 12:41pm
I've never seen a bow eye rip out on a glass boat. The most severe pull on them is when the boat isn't all the way on the trailer or at an angle to the trailer. Then, pulling out of the ramp the boat will be pulled forward putting the extreme pull on the bow eye. I have seen a couple bow eyes ripped out of wood boats but in both cases, they had stems in very bad shape.

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Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: November-21-2014 at 2:16pm
Thanks for all the idea's guys. I will have to get something over the chain. Maybe a bicycle tube. Hopefully none of us have to test the boat stops again. Glad this one is in the rear view mirror now.



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