Winterizing A PCM GT40
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34457
Printed Date: November-27-2024 at 3:54am
Topic: Winterizing A PCM GT40
Posted By: dano
Subject: Winterizing A PCM GT40
Date Posted: August-20-2014 at 12:43am
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Hello everyone, I recently joined this website although I have been a visitor for many years. This summer I became the owner of a 99 SN which I posted to the diaries page the other day. I have grown up around I/O's and winterized them since I was a teenager. I am looking for some pointers (pics or videos if possible) on how to properly winterize my GT40 and also assistance with the hot/cold water shower and driver seat heater which I assume has some type of heat exchanger as there are hoses which run from the heater back to the engine. I have read some of the forums on winterization but have not found any so far which specifically refer to the GT40 engine or how to properly winterize the shower or heater. I have also read a couple posts about clearing the speedo lines with something around 25 PSI of pressure. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, dano |
Replies:
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: August-20-2014 at 12:15pm
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Dano, I believe you will want to use about 7 PSIG to blow out those speedo lines. 25 PSIG may damage the bladders. I do believe that most will tell you not to even mess with the speedos at all Donald |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: August-20-2014 at 12:38pm
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There are probably 8,000,000 threads on this but since nobody bit after letting it marinate last night I'll just summarize. GT40 winterization is the same as the carb'd version of the engine other than NOT fogging through the intake. Block drains on either side of the block itself, one or the other may be used for heater or shower hoses. Drain both block drains probing for scale/buildup with a wire or pick. Drain at the bottom of the cast metal "U" feeding the water circ pump in front Drains on the back of both exhaust manifolds Empty water strainer Blow water out of heater core by literally blowing into one hose and noting the water/air coming out of the other. Then I usually funnel in some AF and blow that through. I have quick release fittings for my heater supply and return hoses (from garden hose section of Ace or HD/Lowes) that make this a snap. I usually put 2-3 gallons of PG Antifreeze into a bucket and suck that into the motor with a 1" hose connected to the input side of the trans cooler. Some just leave it dry, YMMV, I do it just because. I pull all 8 spark plugs, fog each cylinder with spray fogging oil w/the straw on the nozzle, then rotate the crank a few rotations with the front crank bolt, then replace all 8 plugs and wires. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: August-20-2014 at 2:17pm
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Well thanks for bringing up winterizing so soon! Joel pretty much nailed it. Only things I would add: is -throw some marine stabil in the gas tank and top it off. - I run engine off hose to temp... then I suck the antifreeze via intake hose. If you have valves to and from the heater core... open them up so you pull antifreeze thru it as well. - since engine is still warm at this point I change oil and filter so it is ready to go next season. - When I fog I do exactly what Joel does but after I manually turn the engine over I respray each cylinder. Other things I do every other year are change impeller and trans fluid. At beginning of season. Then I store in a heated garage anyway.. 
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Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: August-29-2014 at 10:14am
| Ok I have just gone from carbed 85' 2001 to EFI 97' gt40 . I used to just drain water and open a few water passages and a gallon of anti freeze. Do I need to do the bucket method or is it the same? I just want be sure since I got the boat on the cheap from bad winterizing .. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-29-2014 at 10:40am
| Same, except you don't fog the (dry) gt40 intake. Cooling system is unchanged on all PCM fords. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-29-2014 at 4:40pm
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Drain all 5 plugs & refill with antifreeze (pour into T stat hose) is a good method. No special hoses involved. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: August-30-2014 at 5:42pm
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yup...August 30th and we have our 1st 'winterizing thread' now..what were we sayin' about those gators? john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: August-31-2014 at 9:25am
------------- Js |
jbear wrote:Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 11:16am
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I was launching yesterday, had the truck/boat/trailer parked while I got ready. A relative stopped by and said "Oh, you're taking the boat out for the season." I looked at him like he was nuts, said I'll boat to mid October, only stop when they drop the lakes. The idea of putting the boat away at Labor Day just seems to shorten the season so much, there's another beautiful month of boating/skiing left. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 11:25am
I know really... depressing ain't it?  ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 12:10pm
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Wasnt ice-out like 3 or 4 weeks late this year in the frozen North? I would push it out as long as I could. Dry suits are on sale! ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 1:07pm
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I imagine Pete's are already put away ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SkiSeneca
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 12:00am
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My neighbor pulled his out last weekend! Mine is staying until until the lake is lowered too. That hot shower does a fine job of getting a wet suit warm..... As far as winterizing, I am a fan of the PG pull through the engine regardless of what it is. Very Very cheap insurance instead of a new engine. Some stabilizer or sea foam is a great idea also. I religiously winterize with PG and stabilizer and have never had an issue. Change the oil in the fall to get the acids out of the engine also, and then you're ready to go in the spring. Full tank of gas IMO is a good idea too. Lots of engine experience in my family. Just my two cents y'all. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 12:26am
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I tried our Florida members way of winterizing last winter. Think I'll try it again this year but with a different boat to make sure it works with different engine manufacturers. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 12:35am
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good planning Gary...you better stop in Central Florida on the way down so me & Eddie can give you some 'tips'......... john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 12:38am
 got it all painted today can start pulling all the tape off tomorrow and get my garage back. Then another day of drying and it can start to go back together.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 1:04am
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can't wait to see it on the way by. john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Airfooter
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 1:13am
I hate to admit it, but I'm pulling the boat out this weekend to run it for the first and only time this season (Yes, it's still winterized from last season). As soon as I'm done I'll be draining the water, and pulling antifreeze back through and fogging. Let me not forgot to mention that this will all be done in the driveway too, so the boat won't even see the lake this year..... What a shame...  ------------- 1992 Nautique Excel |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 1:17am
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Wait, you're running it on the hose and then winterizing again? Why? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Airfooter
Date Posted: September-03-2014 at 1:30am
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Because it'll feel good to run it at least once. Also, I'll feel much better knowing that I have fresh antifreeze in it when it's -20 this winter ($40 is cheap insurance). I have ball valves at all drain locations so it doesn't take much time either. ------------- 1992 Nautique Excel |
Posted By: *mtrbtr*
Date Posted: September-15-2014 at 5:26pm
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Is there any plugs that need to be removed on the Tranny or just the hose? ------------- 2006 SV 211 (sold) went to the dark side 97 Sport Nautique (sold) 89 PS 190 (sold) 05 Four Winns H180 (sold) 89 Four Winns 180 Freedom (sold) 75 MFG (sold) |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-15-2014 at 7:15pm
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No plugs on the tranny. The only hose to drain for tranny is actually the raw water hose that is connected to the oil cooler. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: *mtrbtr*
Date Posted: September-16-2014 at 5:53pm
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This is the first year I am DIY. I am tired paying the marine mechanics to spill oil on my carpet, etc. So do you guys that put AF in, do you drain the water first and then suck the AF through? I sucked 2 gallons of AF through before draining anything. I noticed that mostly clear water came out of the block drains on the side of the engine and the AF was all in the exhaust manifolds. I am assuming that's because the T stat was not open? Just trying to make sure I do this right. Draining was easy, just want to make sure that I have AF in all the right places since it freezes so hard up here in the winter and boat will be in cold storage. ------------- 2006 SV 211 (sold) went to the dark side 97 Sport Nautique (sold) 89 PS 190 (sold) 05 Four Winns H180 (sold) 89 Four Winns 180 Freedom (sold) 75 MFG (sold) |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: September-16-2014 at 6:02pm
Hollywood has a great MS Paint diagram of the water flow in the engine. Basically you want to drain the water, then either suck in or pour in the AF via the raw water feed to the t-stat housing. Regardless of T-stat open or closed there is ALWAYS an open passage that lets incoming fluid enter the engine. This is probably the most common area of confusion in boat winterization. If the block is empty, it fills up regardless of T-stat state. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: *mtrbtr*
Date Posted: September-16-2014 at 6:17pm
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Thanks that makes sense. I did some searching but couldn't find that diagram of HW's. Got a link? That would be very interesting to see. ------------- 2006 SV 211 (sold) went to the dark side 97 Sport Nautique (sold) 89 PS 190 (sold) 05 Four Winns H180 (sold) 89 Four Winns 180 Freedom (sold) 75 MFG (sold) |
Posted By: rwittmer
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 8:45pm
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I have a 92 Nautique. I will be WINTERIZING myself for the first time (my dealer is over booked). Can I just take the inlet hose and put it in a drum of AntiFreeze and start the engine until I see pure AF coming out? I was thinking this way I don't need to remove any drain plugs and so on. I figured if I run enough AF this should be OK? Thanks for insight, Hudson ------------- Rene Wittmer |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 8:59pm
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Rene, DRAIN and then add the anti. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 9:30pm
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and DON'T let anyone tell you different...... Also make sure you use a wire to probe the drain holes so that they are not blocked and drain completely. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: rwittmer
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 10:11pm
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Thank you, Rene ------------- Rene Wittmer |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 2:10pm
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Thanks to Keno's excellent scientific methods, we have http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42058&KW=antifreeze&title=suckin-up-the-pink-stuff" rel="nofollow - this experiment to fully understand what the outcome may be without draining all the water out of the block before filling with antifreeze. I am a personal fan of the pour in method as during my process it is actually faster than using the bucket. I leave the drain plugs out and start pouring. Then as the block fills some AF will get the remaining bits of water out, and I'll plug that drain. Continue to pour until the next drain location gets AF and plug. Do the same thing with the exhaust. Unfortunately, i have had to accept that "end of season" and 1 week old means early winterization for me too this year.  side note: i didn't see Keno's post over on the Boat Maintenance FAQ, maybe it could get added over there as it is such an excellent resource during these winterizing discussions. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: rwittmer
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 7:54pm
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Hi Spiral, Thank's for the information. I stopped by my Correct Craft dealer and I asked the Mechanic how they winterize my 92 Nautique? He told me that since they are extremely busy they do not use the drain plug method. Basically he showed me a container with about 20 gallons or so of AntiFreeze. They draw the AF using the water pump from the boat (inlet hose attached to another hose sucking the AF from this container). He said you just have to make sure you run the engine long enough for the thermostat to open. I have a driver's heater and he told me that is no problem as the AF will go throughout the engine and lines. Then he fogs the carburator and changes the oil and filter. That's about it and that's the best way to do it. Yes it's true you will need a large supply of antifreeze but still seems easy enough. What do you think about this method? Anyone else ever tried this method? Thanks, Rene ------------- Rene Wittmer |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 8:35pm
Well, this is a tough call. I guess it boils down to personal preference. Without getting into too much detail, I scoured this site before my first winterizing and kept track of EVERY step people take. Some processes were different than others, omitting or changing order of some parts. My conclusion from the research was that as long as you get basically ALL water out of the engine to prevent it from expanding and cracking the block, you are probably pretty safe. Anything else you do is whether you thinks its necessary or want to do the absolute most to keep your boat in tip-top shape. I guess the point of posting that link that Keno made was to show that by not draining the water, you for sure will be diluting the AF and lowering it's protection ability. Will that lead to the engine being ruined? probably not, but that's your call/gamble. Personally I warm up the engine and change the oil first, so there is fresh oil in there. Other people would rather change in the spring. Some fog the carb and let the engine suck it into the chambers, i prefer to do it manually into each cylinder. As I said before, i believe it comes down to personal preference.
Best way seems pretty subjective. Plenty of people have done things in various ways all with success. Some people have used successful ways with utter failure. The bucket/pull method does seem to waste more AF overall, and Im frugal (ok cheap) and don't want to spend more $$ on stuff if i don't have to. Pouring it in is like 2.5 gallons. I'd say i can generally winterize my boat (with everything) in about 30-45 min. Depends on if I want an excuse to not work on anything else  Don't be scared to winterize yourself. Just make a game plan for your first time so you don't miss something you feel is important. Take your time. After that it becomes second nature.------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 8:35pm
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Overly complex and less than ideal. Requires green (toxic) AF since the marine stuff isn’t meant to be diluted. You waste a lot and you need to drain in the spring rather than simply blow out the back. You also need to continuously test the dilution% to be sure block has adequate freeze protection. Bad idea for a 1-off. Just drain it first. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 8:53pm
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Rene, It sure sounds like you are against removing some drain plugs, disconnecting some hoses and then pouring some antifreeze in the block. Have you ever used a refractometer before? If you do the pump through, then I highly recommend using one. Good luck. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rwittmer
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 8:58pm
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I have to admit that I'm just worried to make a mistake and have a problem. But I have to agree the drain plugs seem very logical and way more environmental friendly. So I have decide to use the drain plug method. At the same time I will remove my impeller and replace it for next spring. I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions, Thank you, Rene ------------- Rene Wittmer |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 9:01pm
What did I say when you asked the question??? This is against Pleasurecraft Marine's own instructions in the engine's owners manual ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 9:24pm
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Rene - I would suggest that you leave the impeller out until spring... Taking the impeller out for replacement keeps it from getting stuck and taking a set over the course of the winter. Also gives you a chance to inspect everything again before putting it in the water. I agree on the drain method for water passages. After that, you can re-fill. I purchased my boat after it froze, and aside from the very attractive purchase price, $3500 and a bunch of work to get that new engine up to speed was a real hassle in the spring when I'd rather have been skiing... One other fun trick, when you take your oil filter off, use a 1 gallon ziplock bag around the bottom so that you don't spill any oil on the carpet
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 10:30pm
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PULL THE DRAIN PLUGS. IT MAKES ABSOLUTELY NO SENSE TO NOT REMOVE THEM. Not trying to be a jerk, but if you can turn the ignition key to start it you can turn the drain plugs to remove them. It's that easy. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 10:40pm
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Put some plastic sheet over the carpet, save some rust stains & wet carpet. 1/2 inch breaker bar work good for the manifold plugs. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: rwittmer
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 10:45pm
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THANKS ------------- Rene Wittmer |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-24-2018 at 10:59am
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After 10 years of owning my GT-40 this year I found the easiest way to winterize it... I sold it
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-24-2018 at 11:08am
That should work! I hope for the sake of the next owner you fogged the distributor and drained the spark plugs before you sold it.  ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-24-2018 at 6:28pm
It might be worth your time to check with CQ to see if you can get your tool box deposit back...... unless your still using it that is ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-24-2018 at 7:24pm
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He told me I have to personally pick up my deposit. When I asked why I had to be there in person told me to ask you. Then he went on and on about how you stop in all the time and use some song and dance about how you need to inventory his box and blah, blah, blah. So I guess I’ll just leave it between you two.
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Posted By: 359
Date Posted: September-27-2018 at 4:20pm
Outboards are simple, you just pull them out and drain the lower unit. |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: September-27-2018 at 4:27pm
you missed the j-tube on the front of the engine, near the water pump
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2018 at 4:29pm
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Matt, You missed the plug on the J tube. on the forward end of the engine. With the 5 gals. you got into the engine, you should be good however, there are no guarantees. Since you missed the plug and then pumped, sounds like you don't have an engine manual. Check out the manuals in the reference section. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: September-27-2018 at 4:29pm
| but id say you will be okay, just slightly less concentrated AF |
Posted By: 359
Date Posted: September-27-2018 at 5:32pm
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Ok thanks, I figured I probably would be ok. I use the same stuff in my camper without blowing out the lines first, and that comes out ok. |
Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-27-2018 at 7:09pm
| Also don't forget to take the hose off the transmission cooler. |