Shaft Coupling Removal Issue
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34737
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:48am
Topic: Shaft Coupling Removal Issue
Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Subject: Shaft Coupling Removal Issue
Date Posted: October-06-2014 at 1:09am
Ok, trying to remove the coupling and what a PITA So far I am able to move the coupling little less than half way from the shaft. As I was cranking on the bolts evenly, I notice transmission oil dripping from the inner transmission seal. Do I have a problem? Is my seal shot? Do appreciate it. Thanks
Edit: when I released all bolts and cleaned up the oil, no more drips and seal looks good.
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(I rotated the transmission coupling, leaking at bottom)
http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/kostaki98/media/Mobile%20Uploads/58F0F2C6-4E46-47DF-8A85-E5E1F4BF5F13_zpsksy34g5o.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
(I rotated the transmission coupling, leaking at bottom)
Kostas N 84N2001
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Replies:
Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-06-2014 at 5:51pm
I was able to find a similar problem posted here but no outcome if this person actual replaced the seal or if it self fixed. Anyone with any info would be great. Thanks
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21235#top
(Sorry for the link)
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 12:46am
Ok, spoke with skidim and told me to keep an eye on it since it stopped leaking, that's good.
Now, I was able to get the coupling out but ended up damaging it when trying to install it back onto the shaft. I believe I know the issue......I was trying to install the coupling with the key in place on the shaft. I was able to get 3/4 of the coupling onto the shaft but no luck with the rest. I did heat up the coupling for one hour at 500 degrees and placed an ice pack on the shaft. Now, question? Shouldn't I be installing the coupling on the shaft all the way and then drive the key? Let me know, do appreciate. Going to order a new coupling from skidim tomorrow thanks
Kostas N 84SN2001
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 10:02am
When I did mine it was one move, when it stopped that was where it was and it wasn't going anywhere. It wasn't exactly where I wanted it, but close enough. If I do it again I'm going to try and go past because it isn't that hard to put the sock back in and push it out to where I want it.
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-10-2014 at 9:30pm
Well I am at round 2 of this with no success
I had the new coupler in the oven for 2 hours at 550 degrees and was unable to slide the coupler onto the drive shaft. I even had ice on the drive shaft thinking that would work.
Going to trying one more time tonight without ice and if it does not slide on then I will either scrap the shaft & coupling or sell if anyone is interested.
Running out of patience
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: October-10-2014 at 11:30pm
You may need to run that by the machine shop first, they have to be within a few thousandths (.000) for it to work. Mine came off of the shaft it was on so I could change the strut bearings.
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Posted By: JDD33
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 12:08am
Kostas,
In the spring I removed the drive shaft from the coupler to replace my strut bushings and replace the packing on the rudder and the drive shaft.
When I went to reinstall the coupler I used a propane out door cooker. Half a beer was more than enuf to get the coupler really HOT! I picked it up with a pair of pliers and up into the boat, with a pair of heavy welding gloves the coupler slid right on with the key in place no problem. It was probably too hot as I could feel my hands burning thru the gloves! But the shaft and coupler are tight! Just another approach! Good luck!
John
------------- Old school goin back to school!
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Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 12:23am
Ice is not going to chill the shaft enough. Heat the shaft is some manner and put the shaft in the freezer. Assuming you had a deep freeze. Heat expands, cold contracts.
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 12:36am
Well the 3rd attemp was no good I believe its not getting hot enough, electric oven at 550 degrees. Unfortunately I do not have a freezer larger enough for the drive shaft.
John, I remeber you telling me that at Tims. My buddy has a deep frier cooker that I will give it a final try.
I just want to be able to look back and see my new 540 prop on
Below are some pictures of the drive shaft and the new coupler. Only was able to get it about a 1/4".
Thanks for your input, appreciate it.
http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/kostaki98/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9A4510C6-EF0A-4399-98F3-B424BCB9F7D2_zpszxzwtpon.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
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------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 12:40am
Don is on the right track. A new coupling must, in my opinion, be >fit and faced< upon the shaft. Take it to a prop shop and they will install the coupling, set the counter bore and grub screw locations correctly, chuck it up in the lathe and face the coupling, check and true the shaft then index and dissemble the pieces ready for you to install. Add another Bill to blue print the prop while you are at it. Balance the price of that service regionally against a pre-fit ARE set up and follow your wallet. Call your local prop shop and ask for an estimate. The guy I use is expensive but Rain Man precise. It would be perfect but within range of the ARE cost wise.
You should still do the prop though..
------------- Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 3:13am
Having the Shaft and Coupling clean and burr free is very important. The clearance on this interference fit is smaller than zero. Anything that sticks up will bugger up your install. Take really fine emery cloth and make sure the finish is smooth on the shaft and the coupler inside surface. Do not sand it or you will reduce your interference fit. Just smooth any rough spots or high spots. Your picture shows damage or gauling on the shaft and coupler. You will need to smooth that back out. On install it needs to be one smooth move. Once the hot coupler touches heat transfers quickly and the shaft will grow locking you in place. You have to be faster than the heat transfer. Should be 1-5 second install. Make sure the key is fitted both to the shaft and the coupler, if the key is tight you will not win. The key cant be tight or sloppy. The one hour in the oven might work but I would use a gas stove top or even a coleman stove to heat the coupler, set it on direct flame, it will heat in 4 or 5 minutes, Best of luck.
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 1:34pm
Try 3 hours in the oven. Ditch the ice. You might be causing the shaft to sweat and if so you're screwed.
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-11-2014 at 2:04pm
I'd break out the Weber grill,but there isn't going to be a next time for me,I'd get an A.R.E. set up. But at least you would be right next to the boat,no need to run thru the house heading toward the boat and cooling the coupler as you go
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 2:00pm
Well no luck over the weekend. I cleaned the heck out of it with emery cloth and tried the propain cooker for 1 plus hours with zero luck. The best was back in my the oven for 3 hours and no ice but still fell short. Going to get a quote on the A.R.E system from skidim and decide then what to do. Wife is tired of me talking about my "shaft"
So I have a welder buddy coming over tomorrow and will give it a last try. I talked with a machine shop to take a look but wanted around $125, I rather put the money on the A.R.E system, wasted enough time already. If I go this route, I will try to sell the shaft and 2 couplers and let someone else give it a try. Not sure what used parts go for, any idea or I should not even bother?
Thanks for everyone's input!
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: NAUTIQUEjunky
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 6:57pm
I would be willing to bet that your shaft has been replaced before, and its a few thousands off from the factory one..After some heat and ice or freezer time u shouldnt be struggling with it like you have been. Its and interference fit so after expanding the new collar with heat and somewhat shrinking the shaft with freezer and still no go... than the diameters are deff too far apart imop.
------------- 1977 MasterCraft Stars&Stripes 1994 Ski Nautique 2000 Super Air Nautique 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 1999 Sport Nautique gt40 current
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Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 7:12pm
Need one of Petes fancy measuring tool thingies.
------------- Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 7:25pm
baitkiller wrote:
Need one of Petes fancy measuring tool thingies. |
Agree! We need Pete to start posting again
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 2:11am
Sorry about your troubles, something is off and a Micrometer should show you where to start fixing. I switched to the ARE after my shaft was ruined along with a prop. Very easy install and very high quality.
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Posted By: 96SNEFI
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 2:23am
I was so pissed off at the hassle it was to remove the coupling and then having read beforehand this business of heating/cooling things that I opted for one of these: http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/item/transmission-couplers-4/transmission-couplers/50401s?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=1537&prodid=1312" rel="nofollow - split coupling Took the shaft and coupling to a machine shop and they trued them together and also declared the shaft straight on arrival.
I also went for one of these to avoid any hassles with shaft packing: http://www.californiamarine.com/part_details.asp?category=Shaft+Log+Stuffing+Boxes&subcategory=Parts+and+Accessories&partnumber=140430" rel="nofollow - shaft log
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 11:27pm
Well finally I was able to install the coupler Had the wife cook it for 4 hours and with assistance from her, it actually slid right on with no problem. I was able to match up the set screw but going to need to replace one of them since it snapped off when I tried to use them to seat the coupler in its exact place, no biggy Thanks for everyone's input and support and not letting me say f'it
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 10:25am
It's always nice when the wife helps with your shaft.
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 5:22pm
Glad you got it headed towards running.
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Posted By: JDD33
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 10:13pm
Running and spinning a New 540!!!!!! Yeah Buddy!!!!
------------- Old school goin back to school!
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 11:31pm
JDD33 wrote:
Running and spinning a New 540!!!!!! Yeah Buddy!!!! |
Yes ! but not till next year
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-20-2014 at 10:09pm
Well I finally installed the 540 prop today Thanks to Pete's "proper prop installation" and Eric's "alignment" forum topics
Of course I did come up with an issue After installing the new prop, I notice the prop is now touching the trailer. I took off the new prop and installed the old and it clears the trailer little more than a 1/4". Sooooo after some thinking, could I lower the rear of the trailer support to get atiquite clearance? Was thinking 3/4" stainless steel plates under the rail where the rear support bolts up. Any concerns??
Thanks everyone Kostas N 84SN2001
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------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-20-2014 at 10:58pm
NAUTIQUEjunky wrote:
I would be willing to bet that your shaft has been replaced before, and its a few thousands off from the factory one... |
Winner winner Spoke with my father-in-law and mention to him about the difficulties of the coupler install and he then proceeded to tell me.....well maybe it's because I had the marina change it since the original shaft got bend "somehow" Told him he could of told me this at the beginning
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-20-2014 at 11:15pm
You did the cotter pin wrong.
The prop-hull clearance picture doesn't make any sense, you're not measuring the largest diameter which is at the blade tip (where it also hits the trailer).
I have an 88 trailer and 540 and my clearance is quite minimal. The 84 trailer/prop guard might be naturally closer and/or your boat may be further forward than it should. 3/4" spacer is probably overkill. You'll never have less clearance than you do now so even minimal would be sufficient. I'd be comfortable with as little as 1/4". Can't say I know my clearance off the top of my head.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-20-2014 at 11:52pm
Clearance from my prop to trailer is about 1/4". Like HW said, it can't physically get any closer once the boat is sitting all the way forward on the trailer. Most of the 80's prop guards seemed to be spaced lower with a few washers.
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 12:13am
Thanks guys.....
I was just snapping some pics to give you guys an idea of where the prop was positioned.
The boat normaly sits even with edge of the bunks. I do need to push the boat 2" forward to make it flush.
I was thinking a plate of some sort to give it more even surface space then just washers. I know, overkill.
Now you got me thinking about the counter pin, how did I install it wrong? Been trying to find pictures to compare. I did have to back off the nutts to allign the counter pin with the hole. Is that ok?
Thanks again!
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 12:20am
Spin the pin 90. Doesn't it say that in the Acme install directions?
For the convenience of all http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8104&title=prop-back-from-delta" rel="nofollow - cotter pin install
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 12:28am
Thanks for the info HW! No, Acme does not mention the position of the counter pin.
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------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 5:18am
You can also put spacers between the bunks and your trailer in the rear. It is only 2 bolts on each side. I say that because of the number of times I drag the trailer guard on driveways.
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Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 9:52am
Hey I have a few of those $2.95 Harbor Freight tape measures too!
------------- Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 9:53am
OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:
Thanks for the info HW! No, Acme does not mention the position of the counter pin. | HW is correct. It's not the radial position of the cotter pin but rather the direction you bent it. You bent it around the nut which is not the proper method. A cotter pin should be bent with one leg aft over the shaft and the other leg forward over the nut towards the prop hub. Nice picture found on the internet:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 11:52am
Thanks Pete, I bought a new cotter pin and going to install it the right way. Appreciate it
------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 12:13pm
For those who may not know the difference in the correct way to install the cotter pin, here's the explanation. Basically it comes down to tightness of the cotter pin. With the pin installed as shown, the eye is engaged in the grove of the nut and the legs are bent over so they are tight. If installed incorrectly, there is a good chance that vibration will "eat" through the pin and you will loose it. Then you can loose the nut as well as the prop if it's not properly lapped/seated to the shaft. I have seen plenty of boats were the cotter pin is gone. We even had a CCfan member loose his brand new prop! Keeping the nut in place is important since there are occasions where the nut is backed off slightly so the groves line up with the cotter pin hole. Backing the nut off is normal practice since the nut is really used to seat the prop on it's taper. A properly seated lapped prop really doesn't need the nut. It's there as a back up.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 1:16pm
MrMcD wrote:
You can also put spacers between the bunks and your trailer in the rear. It is only 2 bolts on each side. I say that because of the number of times I drag the trailer guard on driveways. | That option is not viable on a traditional correct craft/ramlin wishbone trailer.
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Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-21-2014 at 1:22pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:
Thanks for the info HW! No, Acme does not mention the position of the counter pin. | HW is correct. It's not the radial position of the cotter pin but rather the direction you bent it. You bent it around the nut which is not the proper method. A cotter pin should be bent with one leg aft over the shaft and the other leg forward over the nut towards the prop hub. Nice picture found on the internet:
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Great Picture Pete! I learn something new again and this picture is definitely worth a 1000 words.
------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N
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