When to run resistor??
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34767
Printed Date: November-13-2024 at 9:38pm
Topic: When to run resistor??
Posted By: Orlando76
Subject: When to run resistor??
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 2:26pm
| PO swapped my distributor to a Mallory electronic yet it still runs through a resistor knocking the 12.5 (engine off) to 10vdc. I was under the impression that electronic wanted a full 12. Just trying to isolate an irritant that surfaced this summer and was showing itself this am. |
Replies:
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 4:07pm
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I'm running a Mallory YLM distributor with an MSD Blaster coil and use a resistor. Its been working well for me since I swapped out my stock ignition system several years ago. I guess the answer to your question will depend on what distributor/coil you are running. Mallory does have a Q/A section on their web site. ------------- The world is full of youth—what we need is a fountain of smart! |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 4:42pm
| Thanks. I just looked up the FAQ page. I didn't learn much but I did learn not to bypass the resistor which is what I was contemplating. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 7:39pm
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It's whatever the coil mfg says to run not who made the points conversion. Are you having problems? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 10:10pm
Actually, it is both. |
Gary S wrote:Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 10:39pm
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Whew, coil is definitely of unknown origin, original maybe? I can't seem to find a model of the Mallory distributor, just a long model number. I've always had a lousy idle. When I first bought the boat it wouldn't idle below 1000. Rebuilt carb (not me but a Holley shop). After rebuild all was great but after 5 minutes or so of idling it'd start to chug, almost maybe not firing a cylinder? Dealt with it this way for 2 years bc rarely would we idle this boat that long so not much of an issue. During this time period it'd get hard to start if I shut it off. So then I found the choke was sticking. Put a new used choke assembly on, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, all was great for ~35 hours. Then one day when leaving sand bar carb acted flooded but no fuel too be seen, wouldn't idle for crap, but ran great when giving it the go go juice. Took it to Woody, cleaned plugs, minor mixture adjustment and started to idle and crank good so we left it. About 15 hours later (this am) upon easy take off it missed, and missed a few times around 26-28 mph. Give it the go go juice harder and no problem. Skied some am and despite the boat not running top notch, it wasn't bad enough to not ski. Came home, put a spare set of autolite 24's in, stuck the time light on it and all seemed ok. Skied this pm, ran lil better, just a miss on easy take off, hard take off no problem. Normal chug idle was present as it basically has for 3 years. I didn't think the resistor would cause this just thought I'd ask why it's there on electronic. The dizzy modules usually work then just up and die, correct? Probably gonna order a new 4160 first of the month, it's time to retire my '73 model Holley. If that doesn't cure it then I'll have to focus on ignition. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-12-2014 at 10:49pm
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As a side note: When reading Mallory's FAQ it said removal of resistor could blow unit as well as any other spike in voltage ie jump, charger, bad alternator. When running at night as we frequently do, when I put running lights on after about 5 minutes they'll start to flicker, but flicker brighter which I often attributed to alternator. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 12:38pm
| Is your distributor a 2 wire or a 3 wire? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 1:09pm
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Wow that's a lot of parts changing. ------------- |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 4:27pm
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It's a 3 wire. I double checked the ground making sure it's clean. HW, how's that a lot of parts to change? Just a distributor and carb. Also since all this I caught the carb flooding so it's time to replace. Ordering it when I get home. install & hope it cures the problems. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 4:45pm
If it's a 3 wire Mallory, this most likely the wiring setup you want, which does include a resister:
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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 4:56pm
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Nice Schematic Brian. ------------- |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 5:11pm
| Yeah that's what I have. I was just sort of under the impression that electronic wanted a full 12vdc. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-04-2014 at 5:33pm
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Thanks Zach, although I can't take credit for that truly artistic work. Todd, well, the red wire actually is seeing the full 12. Those electronic conversion kits do take the resister out of the equation, that's why they often raise hell with the old, original coils, that all of a sudden seeing more voltage after the conversion. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: November-05-2014 at 10:54pm
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I think my 7 year old drew that. The drawing is correct the dizzy is getting 12 volts but the coil is still running through the resistor and recieving the required 9 volts. I think this is where a lot of people go wrong and put to much voltage to the coil by jumping the resistor causing the overheat coil problems we always see posted. |