Winter Project wetsand the supreme starting early
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34772
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 10:49am
Topic: Winter Project wetsand the supreme starting early
Posted By: KTempleton
Subject: Winter Project wetsand the supreme starting early
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 10:40pm
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I want to thank everyone that helped with the mechanical side of the boat. I got it running great with no over heating. Now that I have the boat at my house in the garage I decided to start on what was going to be my winter project a little early. I planned on wet sanding last year but with the boat being at my brothers it was hard to get to make it a consistent project. I also stopped at a local boat house and showed some pics. The guy told me to use my 3M heavy duty and to really work it. And it should be good. So that's what I did I did one side of the boat and realized there was a ton of specs being left in the finish.  Well this thing is like a chalk board. I knew it was going to need some serious attention. WHen I got the boat the decals had been removed so there is 2 drastic shades of blue. I have read probably every write up on here on wet sanding. Decided that I'm going to need to start with 320, 600, 800, 1200 then compound and then on, due to the condition. My question is.... When do you know When to move to the next grit? should I keep going with 320 until it's all the same color? Or does it even out in the process. On the opposite side after compounding you can still see a faint line in areas. But the logo is still raised over the exposed part. WHen it's wet it shows no change, but when dry shows some. I just don't want to rub with the 320 too much and go to deep. I assume I want to go until the 2 sections are level if I ever want to put on more decals. Any suggestions are appreciated. Is there a way to get out the compound specs in the above pic too? Here are some more pics. Logo Wet  Logo Wet  Logo dry after some 320  |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 11:23pm
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Is that a solid color or a metal flake hull? You have to be real careful not to oversand,the decal ghosting you have will most likely never be gone ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KTempleton
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 12:05am
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its a solid color. the metal flaking is actually the compound in the gel coat specs. I assumed i would need to refinish or something but thought it was worth the winter if i can salvage. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 1:11am
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I see,welI I guess then you have nothing to loose. If you were going to refinish it the gel would have to be sanded or striped off anyway. One problem you will have is that the gel is not put on in an even thickness. You'll be sanding and all of a sudden you start seeing a black spot,the more you sand the bigger it will get. That's because you've gone thru the gel and are into the resin behind it. It can happen anywhere but like buffing a car will most likely occur on or near an edge. Are you doing this by hand? If you are use a block and plenty of water. I like 3m and Mirka paper. If you have a compressor that will run a DA you can carefully use that or Harbor Freight has a wet palm sander that works pretty well,its a very cheap copy of a Hutchins water bug. You might want to concentrate in one 1 or 2 foot area to get a feel on how it's going to go. It's a hard and tough job,but when your done you can't beat the look. Good luck with your project. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KTempleton
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 1:56am
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I'm doing the wet sanding by hand. was contemplating using a block. I had a bucket of water and would dunk the paper to clean and wet as needed. I just didn't know if I should sand to get a color match or if it was something that would even out farther down the road after compounding and stuff. |
Posted By: KTempleton
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 2:13am
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I was doing it by hand though, so I could feel when it was getting smooth. I've painted campers and some offroad vehicles but was wetsanding after painting, So it was a bit different |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-14-2014 at 9:51am
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I use a dish soap bottle to continously feed water while sanding. ( a little soap in the water helps too). When the area is fully sanded, the paper will drag more, so you can tell when it's time to move on. Also, if you wipe it with a rubber squegee, you can easily see the scratch pattern, you want it to be even. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 11:03am
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I seldom disagree with Gary, but my ghosting was worse(don't shoot me Gary). If this is your first wet sand on gel, I'd say start with 600. You'll spend more time with the 600 paper than you otherwise might have to, but you'll minimize the risk of going too far. You may or may not know the history of the hull; has this been done before leaving you less gel to work with now? A piece of finish planed poplar would show you how the grit procession works(poplar is softer than gel by a little bit?). Sand a little on one small area of the board with 150 or similar and look at it under a shallow angle light. Then try to sand it out with 320. In short, coarser grit CAN do more damage than good. Also, beware of corners and edges. They'll cut fast enough to surprise you. And don't cheap on the paper. Look for a local shop that specializes in auto finishes; they often have a large selection of quality and grits. +1 on the other tips. I use a spay bottle(Chris mentioned adding a little soap-this will reduce the cutting depth and the lactic acid fermentation(sore muscles), and sometimes a firm waxing pad behind the paper for concave areas. You won't need the 3m super duty for a while yet and you'll want to follow that with 3m finesse it. Good Luck! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 11:35am
You can disagree with me all you want Greg, it's good to have you back  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KTempleton
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 3:23am
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I've wet sanded before but it was on cars while painting. And wet sanding between coats. So it was more by feel. And with nothing less than 800 frit up to 2000. I hate to say it but in small test area I worked the 320 a few times with no color change. I then hit a small spot below water line with a bunch of trailer scratches, lightly wet sanded with 100 for grins and started getting a very very Brite blue. Is this unheard of? I don't mind being super careful. Then I hit a spot on the inside what is normally under a rub rail. With 100, 320, 600,800, 1200 then compounded. It's a huge difference. Go figure.. the top isnt a yuck yellow |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 9:05am
| It's weird that the area under the decals is lighter and I'm assuming the original gel color than the area exposed to the light and weather. Doesn't blue gel usually get lighter over time where exposed to the weather, like most other colors? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 10:01pm
Mark, You may want to do a search on gel ghosting. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
mark c wrote:Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 10:38pm
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Don't need to just spend 3 months sanding and polishing my BFN earlier this year. Think I know how colors change when exposed to sunlight, and enamel paint at this point. Darker colors tend to fade, unless they are being contaminated with foreign matter. Don't think I've ever seen the area under a decal being lighter than the exposed area of the hull, whether its in gel, or paint. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-18-2014 at 12:37pm
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You're good KT. My intention was to stress the 'thickness' of the material and you have that covered. I used some worn 150 in some areas; I also found that others had worked on the finish before. It was thin in the areas you'd expect. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-18-2014 at 12:38pm
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: October-19-2014 at 10:45am
Yep, we got Pete and Greg back at the about the same time...Nice to see both you guys up and running again. Welcome back guys!   ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-19-2014 at 2:01pm
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Plus 2 ------------- |