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Rudder Port Play

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34854
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:18am


Topic: Rudder Port Play
Posted By: gtxragtop
Subject: Rudder Port Play
Date Posted: November-01-2014 at 9:34am
How much play between the rudder port and the rudder is too much?
How would you measure this so that you would know OK, vs time to replace?
I have a 96 Ski Nautique and there is some play. It is the original port
with 700 hours on the boat. The port has no grease fitting. I've pulled the rudder and greased with 24C which worked fine for 1 season.

Thanks.

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1996 Ski Nautique GT40

Worcester, MA.



Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-01-2014 at 4:27pm
Push all the way fwd, set a pointer of some kind. Then push astern. measure the difference. I wouldn't replace it unless it was over 1/8 inch of play. Are you having any problem with steering binding up? Maybe you just want to add a grease zerk with an extension hose.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: gtxragtop
Date Posted: November-01-2014 at 8:21pm
Where are you measuring? At the point on the bottom of the hull where
the rudder exits the rudder port?
No steering issues.

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1996 Ski Nautique GT40

Worcester, MA.


Posted By: gtxragtop
Date Posted: November-01-2014 at 8:23pm
I'll have to look again after boat is out of winter storage but I think that there was more side to side play than front to back.

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1996 Ski Nautique GT40

Worcester, MA.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-01-2014 at 10:42pm
I was referring to the clearance at the face of the port. If no steering issues, I'd leave it alone. replacing it is not an easy job.

Another method would be to use calipers to measure the shaft, then also the port (both F-B & L-R directions). You can get plastic calipers pretty cheap at an auto store. They may not be accurate but they would be repeatable (which is all you need).

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: jungle
Date Posted: November-15-2014 at 8:16pm
Just pulling mine apart, I have about 1/4" side to side movement, and I am thinking that was causing the boat to wander(just a bit, usually when entering the course, requiring a slight correction. Not sure if I am going to have to purchase a new bracket or if I can just get a bushing machined.

Jim


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-15-2014 at 8:48pm
Originally posted by jungle jungle wrote:

Just pulling mine apart, I have about 1/4" side to side movement, and I am thinking that was causing the boat to wander(just a bit, usually when entering the course, requiring a slight correction. Not sure if I am going to have to purchase a new bracket or if I can just get a bushing machined.

Jim

Jim,
The rudder to ports have always been on the sloppy side. Repacking the gland may help some but, It's my opinion that's not what is causing the slight wandering. Most will tune the rudder so there is always some helm pull to one direction. Since you haven't mentioned what boat you have, we don't know if you have a tuneable rudder or not. However, if not, you can tune your rudder by grinding one of it's trailing edges.

Yes, what boat do you have??? Have you made a diary entry?

EDIT:
Originally posted by jungle jungle wrote:

Hey guys, have a 2000 GT 40

Your rudder should be tuneable.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: jungle
Date Posted: November-16-2014 at 4:39pm
Sorry for not putting boat info on first one, it is a 2000, 196. I have tried tuning it with the adjustment on the rudder, but it did not help the wander. And by wander , it was never a slow wander, rather, it would usually kind of snap one way or the other, just a little. Any ways, got the rudder just about out, so, might as well tighten it up.
Not sure about the diary entry, is that under my account?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2014 at 5:01pm
Jim,
Go to the diary section and then to "post your boat".

Have you tried adjusting the tab on the rudder (not "prop" ) the other direction? Is there any slack from the helm wheel to the tiller arm?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: jungle
Date Posted: November-16-2014 at 5:17pm
I did not try it both ways. I talked to Zach after I tried, and he said there really should not be any play in rudder, so that is why I figured I would try fixing the play this winter. Thanks for the correction. I will get a photo when I get the boat in the sunshine, got no pics of it.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2014 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by jungle jungle wrote:

Just pulling mine apart, I have about 1/4" side to side movement
Jim

Originally posted by jungle jungle wrote:

I did not try it both ways. I talked to Zach after I tried, and he said there really should not be any play in rudder, so that is why I figured I would try fixing the play this winter.

I should have asked you where you get this 1/4" play. A small clearance at the port to the rudder shaft even brand new will cause play at the bottom of the rudder due to the fulcrum. If the 1/4" is actually in the port, then there's a problem.

When you get the rudder out, measure both the shaft and the port. When measuring the port, measure the top (not the gland) and the bottom. Then get back to us.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: jungle
Date Posted: November-19-2014 at 10:07pm
ok, got it all apart, on the shaft, close where it widens out is 1.238, other end where arem bolts on(but area still in the bushing) 1.243, measurements on bushing, plate end, 1.271, and thread end 1.254. It looks like the packing is still good(does not looked torn or missing) Might be able to just re-assemble and tighten packing? I also drilled and tapped for a grease line. What is recommended to use for that? Or does it not really matter? Forgot to mention, the 1/4 " play was at the bottom of the rudder, side to side.

Jim,
Thanks for the help


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: November-19-2014 at 11:05pm
I have found tightening the packing to have a pretty big impact on rudder play.    Use some goretex packing while you are in there, tighten and lube and you will likely be happy with your play and steering effort.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 12:53am
Jim,
Sounds like you are good to go with the port and rudder. As I mentioned, the tolerance between the two are pretty sloppy. Trig out the clearance and the bottom of the rudder and you will come up with that 1/4" you were concerned about. Repack the packing that I mentioned and Joe confirmed. Since the rudder isn't constantly turning like the prop shaft is, the packing can be fairly tight.

Try the rudder tuning again only in the other direction.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: January-14-2015 at 9:53pm
I had this problem two seasons ago. I had the port machined to accept self lubing brass bushings. I also added zerks to the port. Problem solved....
I Have a friend thats a machinist. Have no idea of part numbers or tolerances all I know is he machined the port to accept what looks to me like a delrin/ brass honeycomb patterned bushing. It really tightened my rudder up and fixed the binding prob I had.

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-16-2015 at 5:29pm
Originally posted by forvicjr forvicjr wrote:

he machined the port to accept what looks to me like a delrin/ brass honeycomb patterned bushing.

Like this?



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: January-18-2015 at 6:39pm
Ya pete like that. But the wall thickness is a lot less than that.Been workin seven days a week hence the delay in responding.lol

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-19-2015 at 8:35am
Originally posted by forvicjr forvicjr wrote:

Ya pete like that. But the wall thickness is a lot less than that.Been workin seven days a week hence the delay in responding.lol

Vic,
The bushings come in many sizes including wall thickness. I just pulled up that picture as an example. See if you can get some more info on the bushing. I'm curious!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: January-21-2015 at 12:26am
Pete its been sometime. I do remember he wanted to bore the rudder port as lolittle as possible. He went with a thin wall bushing actually two I think was three inches each. He might have shortened them. Im unsure. I do know that it fixed my issue and and he added a zerk to double the longevity of the part.


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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman



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