Engine Rebuild ??s
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35106
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 4:12pm
Topic: Engine Rebuild ??s
Posted By: Treybizttu
Subject: Engine Rebuild ??s
Date Posted: December-03-2014 at 1:01pm
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So I had a few questions specific to a marine motor rebuild. Sandblast/ Paint: - There a a few parts that the original coating has peeled off somewhat with a little rust that I would like to rehab before I reinstall. Specifically the: theromstat housing, a coulple brackets, and the exhaust manifolds... - is it safe to have any or all of those sandblasted? - I checked the manifolds for leaks and couldn't get any bubbles so I think they are good but they have some surface rust where the manifold bolts to the head. - What kind of Paint or Coating should I use? I've used POr-15 on my ranch truck that stays muddy and neglected and it has held up great. Will that work well in a marine environment? Cleaning Fuel System Parts: - The main rubber fuel lines that don't have fittings are being replaced as fuel line was cheap enough by the foot I didn't see a reason not to. However, I wonder about the: Fuel Rails, Lines from the FCC to the rails, and is evidenced by my replies in the fuel injector thread the injectors themselves. - Is there a good way to clean the lines? - Good way to clean the throttle body? - On the injectors I have looked at the Ford Motorsport replacements but they look longer/taller than what is in there originally. - What about sending the injectors off to be rebuilt? Thanks for any and all help! Trey |
Replies:
Posted By: Treybizttu
Date Posted: December-05-2014 at 11:36am
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Anybody? Note: After reading up on painting the manifolds I'm going to skip that as most of what I have read leads me to believe the paint will just cook right back off anyway. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-05-2014 at 12:06pm
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San blasting is OK on those parts. Dress gasket areas with a a flat bastard wrapped in emery cloth. Fuel line shall be A-1 rated. Not autozone crap. Throttle body cleaning I really like Amsoil Power Foam. OMC Power Tune is a close second. Internal fuel parts I use Seafoam to clean with but the Power Foam will work there too. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-05-2014 at 12:14pm
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Go ahead and paint your manifolds it only burns a little right in the area where they bolt up to the heads where the exhaust is the hottest and there is no cooling jacket. Google Hirsch engine enamel,they make an excellent paint that can be brushed with out leaving marks on cast iron and can be thinned and sprayed on other parts as needed. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Treybizttu
Date Posted: December-05-2014 at 12:14pm
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Fuel Line is good stuff.. Not from Autozone. I'll look into the cleaning stuff suggested. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: December-05-2014 at 8:28pm
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Ive had good luck with VHT's ceramic coating paint. Make sure you do the proper heat baking for best performance. http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/" rel="nofollow - http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/ |
Posted By: rrichr
Date Posted: December-08-2014 at 3:13pm
| Use muratic acid for the internals on the manifolds to get all the rust out. Time it for probably no more than 3 to 5 minutes and then flush it out. |
Posted By: Treybizttu
Date Posted: December-08-2014 at 5:41pm
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Painting tips are all good... Thanks everybody. So I replied to the cracked block thread and it got me thinking.. If I'm replacing my cam with a new one + lifters from Cam research, do I need to do anything with my distributor? I've been trying to read up on distributor gears and rebuilding the distributor and what not. If my dizzy appears to be in good shape is there any reason to mess with it? |
Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: December-08-2014 at 11:32pm
| Electrolysis works great for the rust removal. No chemicals buy does take.some soaking time in the tank. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:40am
Jim, I'm curious on how do you manage the internal cavities with the electrolysis? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
jhersey29 wrote:Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:45am
| The water flows into the open ports and works no different than on the out side. I have found that if you have a build up of calcification on the inside it doesn't seem to work well on that. Chemicals for the will with that issue unless someone else knows a way. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 10:32am
Jim, I asked about internal cavities because I was curious if you were fabricating and somehow getting anodes inside the cavities. Electrolysis is nothing more than a reverse plating process. Plating too doesn't work on blind surfaces unless there's a cathode (reverse of electrolysis) in direct line of sight of the surface being treated. It's too bad that EPA restrictions have basically eliminated the hot caustic tank process of boiling out a block and similar items. It sure works and in very little time. There still are a few hot tanks around if you are lucky to find a shop that still has one in operation. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:19am
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I was more specifically addressing his original question. -- "There is a few parts that the original coating has peeled off somewhat with a little rust that I would like to rehab before I reinstall. Specifically the: theromstat housing, a couple brackets, and the exhaust manifolds." The electolysis works great on the parts he has listed. Especially in reference to the original coating has peeled off. You would get very good line of site and I have found on small parts like the upper thermostat housing that line of site is not critical. The process cleaned an old one I had laying around that was unusable to something that is now rust free and maybe usable. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:44am
Jim, I understand but then Bob mentioned the muriatic acid and you responded with the electrolysis. I brought up the limitations of electrolysis so anyone not familiar with the process understands. Besides careful anode placement, it's a lot of work to build the system. I will say electrolysis does work and many are successful using it. If parts won't fit in my blast cabinet I've always stuck with a wire wheel and a solvent wipe. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |