rear floor access panel
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35208
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:17am
Topic: rear floor access panel
Posted By: skibum1110
Subject: rear floor access panel
Date Posted: December-27-2014 at 7:15pm
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I have a 75 SN. I need to replace the floor center section behind the motor box. does anyone have the dimensions of this piece? what is the best material and thickness for that section? Thanks ------------- 1992 Ski Nautique 1975 Ski Nautique 2000 Ski Nautique 2006 Ski Nautique 206 Limited 2005 Air Nautique 206 Team |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-27-2014 at 9:05pm
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Chris, This is probably the only spot I would recommend true marine plywood. The span of the area needs the strength marine ply offers. I suggest several coats of CPES and then a layer of glass and epoxy on both sides. I suggest actually measuring the area since even if someone does have some measurements, I woun't trust CC to make two boats the same.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Watauga
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 12:09pm
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Yes, what Pete said. My '81 SN's rear section is 3/4 x 34 1/2 x 39, 7 ply marine, but I believe each section is made specifically for the boat it is in. The number and thickness of glass laminations (or no glass laminations) on the top and bottom sides will change the overall height of the panel and may make it lower or higher then the adjoining sole (floor) of the boat. You also need to consider the edge glass wrapping, or/and thickened epoxy and perhaps carpet in some cases depending on your preference. I assume you are asking because you lost the original and can't measure it? |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 12:42pm
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I'm with Pete. There isn't two fiberglass boats out there that are 100% identical. Make sure to account for fudge room with carpet and glass/cpes. ------------- |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 5:14pm
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I've replaced two of those pieces for friends of mine. All it takes is a 200 lb. plus person to step directly behind the motor box on one foot and crack it. What I have done is mount a 2x4 perpendicular on the bottom of the plywood that reaches each stringer. Cut a half moon out for the drive shaft clearance and you won't have any flex. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 7:20pm
| 20" span requires more strength than 3/4" exterior ply can provide? C'mon. Even CC thought it was fine for the 89+ boats with 26" spans. I'd keep it simple and use treated ply, just like CC did. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 8:40pm
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I have been using http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/underlayment-panels/plywood-underlayment/1-4-4-x-8-integraply-underlayment/p-1480811-c-5711.htm" rel="nofollow - this from Menards it's approx 1/4" with 5 plys. I cpes it and doubled it up using Cabosil and epoxy. I have to replace two hatches on the Shamrock which delaminated due to the way screws attaching the hinge were installed. I plan to do that in the summer the same way. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 9:53pm
Yes, I believe as mentioned that this is where marine ply is needed. If you use ether treated or regular ply there's a chance that an inner ply will have a void running the length or width which is the weak point in the ply. All that would be needed to split it is to get Tim's large friend to step aft of the dog house! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 10:52pm
Here's a Mustang 17 I did a couple of years ago. You can see the line of screws on either side of the inspection plate hole. That's where I put 2x4 braces on the backside. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: December-28-2014 at 11:35pm
| The braces are a great addition for sure. But I would run the grain of the plywood the opposite direction. Especially with where the inspection hole is located. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-29-2014 at 8:45am
Joel, Great point. I suggest the same since if a non marine ply is used and if there is a void in the center veneer, the strength won't be affected in the port to starboard direction. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-29-2014 at 8:46am
Joel, Great point. I suggest the same since if a non marine ply is used and if there is a void in the center veneer, the strength won't be affected in the port to starboard direction. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: December-29-2014 at 9:15am
| I'm glad the topic has come up, I need to do mine this winter. Although I'm not completely impressed with marine grade from either Menards or Owl lumber I just don't think I could put today's treated plywood in a boat. Such a lower quality than say 10-15 years ago, at least not without braces like Tim did. I would be worried About it warping even still. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-29-2014 at 9:59am
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Joel, I'm really surprised about Owl! I have NEVER been disappointed with their quality. Maybe you need to go to their main store? I agree with the treated ply. Unless it's screwed down, it's going to dry out warped all over the place! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-29-2014 at 11:13am
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It doesn't matter which way the grain is going with a piece of plywood that small with braces on the bottom. And for "drying out and warping" is bull. I replaced mine in 1998, no warping at all. I put 7-9 coats of polyurethane on the top side and edges like the one pictured above. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-29-2014 at 11:27am
Tim, I highly recommend you take a look at the APA load specs in reference to grain direction. BTW, Joel is a certified journeyman carpenter. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 1:55am
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So you think all the interior layers run the same direction as the outer veneers? ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 7:44am
No, the veneer layers grain direction alternates so with an uneven number of veneer layers, there is always one more layer running the same direction as the face veneers. If you look at the APA load ratings, you will find two significant different ratings as related to the face grain direction relative to the support. http://www.pacificwoodlaminates.com/img/PDFs/APA/APA_LoadSpanTables.pdf" rel="nofollow - Take a look at table 2 in this APA publication Tim, Maybe you are confusing ply sheet with "micro lam" beams. With a micro lam, all the grain does run in the same direction and the reason they are so strong. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 2:50pm
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I'm not confused. I know that a piece of plywood would be useless if every layer had the grain in the same direction. It would bow very bad. I know a little about plywood, my Dad retired from GP. But back to the original statement, the small piece behind the box, with braces on the bottom side, grain direction is not an issue. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 3:53pm
| Grain direction isn't an issue without braces either. It's not an issue in a house with joists at 16" on center. Stressing over a 20" span qualifies for worry-wart status. Never seen a piece warp that was in place and properly supported either. CC did it for a long time without any extra precautions. |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 4:35pm
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Tim agrees with Tim. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 10:01pm
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You must have been worried at some point when you put those braces in... And house subfloor plywood tongue and groove (today's grade) is typically a three ply. The bottom veneer and top run ACROSS/perpendicular to the joists, thats why it can span 16" center. Go ahead and run it the opposite direction keeps guys like me busy  Sorry I Didn't Mean to start a heated threadjack |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 11:36pm
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Wow Swany, you were 4 years old when I bought my Mustang. You got smart quick in your short time on earth. Comparing sub-flooring to this piece of wood behind the dog box is wrong. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: December-30-2014 at 11:50pm
I'm glad you figured that out. Tim what's your occupation? And I'm not comparing subfloor to the inspection panel. Making a point grain direction matters. It was an analigy brought up |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: December-31-2014 at 1:30am
| This talk about wood and anal-igy's is getting too heated. |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: December-31-2014 at 1:35am
| LMAO. Well my spelling sucks |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-31-2014 at 10:14am
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Joel, the D in Tim stands for Dikhead, don't mind him he tends to be an azz on here. Thanks for your qualified input!! BTW, when I was at my sis's place at Thanksgiving I found that new bridge at Red Gate rd on my way home, would be perfect for a BF flyer, LOL Ok, thread jack off |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-31-2014 at 12:19pm
This is what happens with education. I happen to agree with Joel. As long as you are making a new piece, why not follow the higher load rating per the APA specs? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-31-2014 at 12:35pm
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Thanks Queerner, I had a bet going you would show up when anal came up. ------------- Tim D |