Dumb question about winterized engines
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35324
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 2:50pm
Topic: Dumb question about winterized engines
Posted By: Orlando76
Subject: Dumb question about winterized engines
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:10am
I feel stupid to ask this but being a FL native, I honestly don't know... Can you do a compression check on a winterized engine? I'd assume you'll push the antifreeze out when it rotates. Is their a trick to this or do you have to re-winterize?
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:41am
Orlando76 wrote:
.Can you do a compression check on a winterized engine? I'd assume you'll push the antifreeze out when it rotates. Is their a trick to this or do you have to re-winterize? | Todd, Take the v belt off the RWP
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:42am
The engine needs to be warmed up for a compression test to be correct
------------- Brian
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:59am
Like Brian says, engine has to be warm. If you do it while the engine is cold, the numbers will probably be all over the place and won't tell you anything.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:10am
If the compression is good cold, it will be better when warm. A cold compression check is a seller's risk. Still worth doing if the seller won't start it for you.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:15am
Thanks guys. Just something I never thought of before. Why do you say it's the sellers risk? Damage? Or just the fact you have to re-winterize it?
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Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:16am
Don't worry about pumping any liquid out, wont hurt the winterization if you want to check cold. Get it primed up good. With an engine oil heater you could get the temp up some. Like pete said disconnect belt on rwp
------------- Brian
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Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:25am
Personally would want to hear it run, is it EFI or Carb? If he does not fog the cylinders if you run it all you need to do is drain then suck up 3-5 gallons of pink stuff to re-winterize, pretty simple and inexpensive. If EFI and he wants to re-fog just pull the plugs and spray each cylinder, if carb just dump down the carb.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:38am
I would make a purchase dependent on a water test, but if you're not that close then a cold compression test is a good piece of data to have. By "sellers risk" he means that the compression test results could come back low (compared to running it on a warmed up engine), which could potentially work in the buyers favor in price negotiations.
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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:39am
It's pertaining to that '93 I posted so it's a carb job. I would drive it before buying no doubt. I was just thinking about possibility of a local or mechanic checking the compression for me and doing a look over on it. But more I think about it, by the time I slip someone some coin for looking it over I might as well drive up there myself. Given we agree on a price he's willing to drive my way some and meet at lake santee cooper.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 11:11am
SNobsessed wrote:
If the compression is good cold, it will be better when warm. A cold compression check is a seller's risk. Still worth doing if the seller won't start it for you. | I agree with Chris. A cold check is better than nothing. You will see some lower figures but cold it will give you a cylinder to cylinder comparison.
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Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 11:22am
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 11:39am
hotboat wrote:
With an engine oil heater you could get the temp up some. | Todd, If you go this route, DO NOT use a dipstick type oil heater. Due to their very small surface area, they have a very high watt density per sq. in. in an attempt to get some heat out of them. All they do is burn the oil! The magnetic type that goes on the oil pan isn't much better. Trust me, I've been in cold climates all my life and know from others making this mistake.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 3:16pm
Tim beat me to it - If I was selling, I would maximize the compression, otherwise the buyer would hammer me with artificially low #'s.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 3:51pm
That's only true if the seller doesn't know a cold compression is lower. It's a moot point if both parties are in the know. As a seller I'd offer a test ride/drive/ski but you're not yanking all my spark plugs out...
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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 3:58pm
Depends HW, as a buyer I hate to be a pain but if you're asking top dollar, I'm pulling plugs. I also hate to make him weigh the boat, but again, top dollar=sellers got to cooperate too.
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Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: January-28-2015 at 6:44pm
If you want to hear it run, and it's full of coolant and the belt is off the RWP, it won't hurt to crank it and let it run 10 or so seconds. Just keep your hand on the manifolds where they meet the head, that's the first area that's going to heat up first.
------------- Tim D
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Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: February-04-2015 at 4:59pm
[I agree with Chris. A cold check is better than nothing. You will see some lower figures but cold it will give you a cylinder to cylinder comparison.[/QUOTE] Really ?? I did a compresion test on my old boosted Datsun While I had apart for new turbo and injector cleaner. my numbers went from 90-120 cold I thought the differences was because it was cold... It seemed to run strong with a little blow by from the crank case breather be a couple weeks before I have it back together ..
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