Pylon/cup slop, suggestions?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35437
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 7:25am
Topic: Pylon/cup slop, suggestions?
Posted By: Orlando76
Subject: Pylon/cup slop, suggestions?
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 10:51am
| Ever since I bought my '76 I've had minor slop in the pylon due to Corrosion on the pin and it's no longer tight in the cup. A suggestion I've received and given thought to is to pull the pylon, fill the cup with epoxy and stick the pylon back in along with a barrier of something like Saran Wrap to keep the pylon from bonding to the epoxy for future removal. Any thoughts? Is there something more "proper" than Saran Wrap? Im afraid it's not strong enough. |
Replies:
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 11:12am
|
If you pull the pylon it should be relatively easy to get a machine shop to create and install a custom brass sleeve that would make it the same size as the cup. If you are just looking to go skiing then you could likely do so quite well with nothing more than some epoxy filled with milled glass fibers - wax or a commercial release agent on the pin would probably do better than saran wrap but that might work as well. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 11:30am
|
Todd, When I bought my 77, the cup and pin were loose due to corrosion as well. This is due to the fantastic engineering of CC putting the cup on the bottom trapping water plus using carbon steel. I thought about inverting the connection but didn't have time. I applied mold release to the pin and then inserted it into the cup filled with thickened epoxy. After the epoxy kicked, I pulled the pylon and just for extra protection applied anti-seize. So far it's worked great. Since the cup had corroded/worn in an egg shape, I didn't make a bushing to cure the slop. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 11:30am
| How can you tell that there is slop at the cup? You have the newer through bolted flange/sandwich at the floor, right? |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 11:46am
|
The slop is just enough where I can see it in the cup when I look up underneath, into the bilge while someone moves the pylon. I'm confident in the floor and crossmember but would like to stighten it up bc i imagine overtime the crossmember will get beaten up as a result.i do have the 4 bolt flange type. It's been removed before bc some ding dong lost the original bolts. The horizontal bolt underneath has me confused bc I don't see it. Is it where I'm not looking or do I not have one? Pete I agree, horrible design. On dad's '75, if and when I attempt the stringers I want cradle set up, seems so much more logical. My glass skills are so limited but I'm learning and playing around. Never used release agent before bc never needed. I know what it's supposed to do. Can someone enlighten me with a suggestion/tips for a release agent. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 11:55am
| I should maybe mention the epoxy around the cup doesn't match the bilge finish. Maybe not original cup? But I don't give this too much thought, knowing CC they might've forgotten to install the pylon originally, after all, they forgot my drain hole. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 12:00pm
|
I'm surprised a healthy floor would allow you to notice the slop. I don't recall that fit being especially tight in the ones I've had out- the ones rusted in place notwithstanding! The above suggestions sound good. I'd be looking to make sure the sandwich at the floor was solid- backer in place, good tight bolts, no slop. A cradle is a nice improvement but the sandwich at the floor 76-79 is much better than the previous beauty ring and can be plenty solid... If your floor isn't flexy (mushy). A compromised floor can do some scary things in this area (like pull the pylon out of the cup completely- been there, done that). There are no additional pins/bolts at the cup for the flanged pylons... The beauty pylons an cradle pylons need that pin to keep the pylon from rotating, non issue with 4 through bolts. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 12:02pm
| Gray gel around the cup and shaft log are normal... All cc's from the mid 70's through 80's seem to have been done this way. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 12:19pm
| Oh, well gray gel is what I have at the cup. I guess all cups were added afterwards. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 12:46pm
Tim, As an example, my Tique had the stringers replaced so the crossmember for the pylon and the fastenings were sound. The slop in the cup was very noticeable. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-19-2015 at 7:15pm
|
I would certainly check for a roll pin in the cup before trying to remove the pylon. Mine has both the flange and the roll-pin. |