Swedish Ski Nautique 1969
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35452
Printed Date: September-22-2024 at 2:03pm
Topic: Swedish Ski Nautique 1969
Posted By: axelg89
Subject: Swedish Ski Nautique 1969
Date Posted: February-22-2015 at 4:02pm
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Hello, I have been reading a lot on this forum the last couple of months and I think it's now time to introduce myself and my boat properly. My name is Axel and i'm 25 years old, I live in Stockholm, Sweden and have since I could walk been into cars and bikes. I currently drive a -69 corvette with a fuel injected LS1 engine + t56 trans that i converted myself. I'm studying engineering here in Stockholm. Last fall I found this beautiful boat for sale and me and my father jumped on it for what we fought was a good price. I have since discovered that I should maybe have read a little about classic issues with these boats before doing so but however, what is done is done and now I'm looking forward to skiing behind it. The good part: *The boat is so nice looking! *The engine is changed for a newer and fresh water cooled 351 *The boat lies on a good trailer so I can pull it behind my vette in the summer The bad part: *I have no clue on the stingers' condition *The manifolds were likely rusted through and the newly rebuilt 351 was full of water when I got it *The boat has close to no interior at all. As soon as I realized that the engine had water inside of it I took it out of the boat, disassembled it and oiled everything up carefully and I think the parts look fairly good. I can still see the honing marks on the cylinder walls and the engine is very clean inside with next to no carbon bild-up. I also removed one bearing cap to see how the bearings are doing (see attached picture). The question is now, what would you do with the engine, I'm thinking about only getting new gaskets for it and new manifolds and then putting it back together? Or do you think the bearings need changing too? Now on to some pictures: On the way home:  Parked among good friends:  The heart:  Not so nice on the inside :/  What do you think, does these need changing?  I'm planning to keep this thread up to date with pictures and info and I'm truly grateful for all the info, tips and pointers that you guys might have! |
Replies:
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: February-22-2015 at 4:22pm
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first I would figure out why you have milkshake instead of oil. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2015 at 6:19pm
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Axel, Welcome to CC ownership and posting on CCfan. There are a couple good threads in the FAQ thread in the Maintenance section regarding rot in stringers. The best involves tapping the glass and listening. Are you sure your boat is a Ski Nautique? From the ribbed fore deck, it looks more like a Barracuda. Measure the length and get back to us. The engine you pictured doesn't look like it is fresh water cooled. The term can be confusing. It means that there is a heat exchanger that uses sea water to cool a closed loop system running through the engine. To answer your question regarding the bearing you pictured, I would take the chance and put a new set of mains and rod bearings in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 10:24am
As I said I believe that the water in the oil might come from a bad exhaust manifold, they are pretty rotten inside and disassembling the engine I found no other signs of leakage.. 
The engine is actually fresh water cooled, only the heat exchanger was placed at a very odd place on the right side of then engine under the exhaust manifold. Interesting about the barracuda/nautique question, it sais ski nautique on the engine cover so I automatically assumed it was the actual model but I'll measure the length next time in the garage :) I think you're right regarding the bearings, it's probably better to change them while I'm at it. |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:08pm
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No need to measure, that's definitely a Cuda and not a SN. Welcome! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 1:55pm
With a SN windshield. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 1:59pm
No, too short and too much rake... Never seen a CC with that particular windshield from the factory. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 2:49pm
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Looks like something off of a sporty Century. ------------- |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 3:00pm
| Or a early Mastercraft? Hard to tell without a better side profile. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 4:15pm
| Windshield sure looks like my 67 SN to me! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 6:14pm
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Nope, your eyes are fooling you! 3rd picture shows the angle. Sn windshield is nearly vertical- your 67 is the same as my 67. Century and MC are both good guesses. |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: February-23-2015 at 8:22pm
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Cool looking boat whatever it is! Welcome aboard. Pulling it with a 69 Vette is interesting too!! I had a 69 Vette red roadster, 427 4 spd. I would never put a hitch on that!! You are in the right place to get guidance! Good luck with it and keep the pictures coming! ------------- Js |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 5:37am
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Thank you, I'll! I havn't got any pictures directly from the side but maybe from this one the angle of the windshield can be determined.  I'm now looking at rebuild kits, I want to replace all the gaskets, hone the cylinders out quickly to get rid of any pitting and put new rings in the engine. What do you think about this kit? I need one for a one piece rms engine... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-5-8L-351W-Marine-Re-Ring-Kit-gaskets-bearings-rings-1-pc-Se-Habla-Espanol-/151344893837?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233cdbcf8d&vxp=mtr Best Regards Axel |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 8:10am
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Axel, Have you determined the rotation of the engine in the boat? The kit is for a standard rotation (left hand) engine. Check the engines nameplate and get back to us with whats on it if you don't know how to interpret it but there should be a "L" or a "R" in it. The prop that's on the boat would be a good indicator too. A LH engine will spin the prop counterclockwise looking from the aft end when in forward. How's the crank bearing surfaces look? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-5-8L-351W-Marine-Re-Ring-Kit-gaskets-bearings-rings-1-pc-Se-Habla-Espanol-/151344893837?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233cdbcf8d&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - Here's a direct link to the rebuild kit Thank's for the picture of the windshield. I was wrong that it's not off a SN due to the aft leaning angle. EDIT: The trans will have a influence on rotation as well. It's hard to tell from your picture what you have. A down angle and reduction trans will reverse the engine rotation to the prop shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 10:52am
Like Pete said, you need to know rotation, critical for a one piece rear main seal.  ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 11:24am
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You could have an early Mastercraft. here's a photo of my 71, hull #13. Notice the Bow vent, barely visible under the cover is very similar and the windshield, although the bow light is different though.  Can't tell from your picture but does yours have the raised part on the rear deck where the red stripe is on mine? My photo is pre-restoration by the way. The early Mastercrafts didn't have the Stars and Stripes theme in 71. |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 12:03pm
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Magic, it even has the same rub rail as your MC.. Good eye !! Look at pic #1. Did the old MC's have the contoured motor boxes like the early Correct Crafts.?? The ddash pod in an MC was raised though correct? .Looks like the 69' here is flat.. ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 12:42pm
Yeah the dashboard on the MC was raised and that boat's is not. I can't find any more old pictures of my MC but it did have a glass motor box but I don't think it was that raised. The Swedish boat sure could be a Cuda though we just need more pictures, those ribs on the fore deck are pretty telling, The MC did not have them. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 12:43pm
| It's definitely a Cuda but that windshield looks about right! |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 1:11pm
| I'd say Cuda. Interesting lifting ring and exhaust manifolds. |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 2:38pm
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wow, I didn't expect this kind of response :) There is a small raise on the back of the boat where your red stripe is 81nautique:  My garage is located 180 miles from where I am ATM so I have a hard time measuring and taking pictures right away but I believe that: * The engine cover came of a later SN as it sais so on top of it (why I fought it was a SN) * The engine is a STD rotation as timing order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8 (counting counterclockwise on top of distributor) and the prop look like this:  |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 2:51pm
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Axel, You have a LH prop confirming the engine rotation. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 3:25pm
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Yep Cuda for sure... Boy, I'm glad there is a swim platform on this beauty...   ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: February-24-2015 at 3:55pm
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Great, looks like we have reached a common answer:barracuda :) Mojo, I like the platform too. Anyone have experiace with Sierra manifolds/risers? |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: February-26-2015 at 2:58pm
| I have been looking at exhaust manifolds which is a big pain in the a-- as the Swedish market for 351 manifolds is next to none driving prices up. Shipping a pair from the US is also pricey. However I found an acceptable deal on a pair of new HGE-1-81 with HGE0082 risers, anyone hear used them? Is the shorter riser model ok to use on a skiboat? |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: February-28-2015 at 7:13pm
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So I worked a bit on the boat today taking the rest of the engine appart and removing the floor of the boat to check the condition of the stringers/foam (I was so nervous about the stringer condition...) The engine looked good and to my surprize all the bearings were in good shape and ford original and the pistons were std size too. I don't think this engine has seen many hours, at least not since rebuild.  The stringers.... Well someone has absolutely been there before me and removed the old stringers and foam replacing it with much thicker fiber glass beams (1.5cm thick material as seen in the first picture). The job lookes very well done and there is no delamination, cracks or other things. When I stuck the phone into one of the stringers from behind I got a big surprise, in top of each stringer a 1 cm thick steel plate has been put in all the way from the front to the back of the boat. The engine mounts and so on are then tappered to the steel plate.... i hope my pictures below make my description a bit more clear... Thickness of the "stringers"  Indide the "stringers"  What do you think about this? Any good? Anyone seen anything like it before? The job looks nice and like it was done by someone that had been working on boats before... We then took the boat out and high pressure steam washed it before taking it back into the garage nice and clean    |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-01-2015 at 3:36pm
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Just go with it. ------------- |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: March-01-2015 at 5:31pm
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Looking good. ------------- Js |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: March-04-2015 at 9:24pm
I'll do so  Have now ordered a rebuild kit that I'll be waiting for. Have been trying to read up on the bolts in the engine. I've understood that no bolts in the old 351 are TTY bolts, do you reuse the bolts or buy new (heads, mains, rods)? |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: April-05-2015 at 2:59pm
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This weekend was to be the big engine rebuild weekend as all the bearings and gaskets finally arrived. Everything began wel untill it all of a sudden went to ***************. No I'm desperate for good advice. I started by honing out and hot pressure wash the block to perfection and everything looked nice. I then clearancesd all the bearings using plastigauge and got results that I was very happy with. Kept on changing the rod bolts into ARP and filefitting all the rings which also went nicely. Then when putting the first piston into the block I somehow managed to do this:  What do I do now? Running this crank I guess is impossible so: 1. Get the crank machined to undersize and get new bearings 2. Get a used stock crank (if so do I need to rebalance it?) 3. Get a new aftermarket crank (I'm guessing that one would need to be balanced?) Please let me know which way you think would be cheapest/best. This really wasn't what my student economy or skiing summer needed and I'm so mad at myself right now. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards Axel |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-05-2015 at 5:16pm
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I would carefully stone it to remove anything riding higher than the surface then I would run it and forget about it. Use a couple pieces of hose over. Those rod bolts to prevent doing it again on the other ones. I use relatively long hoses to help guide the rod. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: July-01-2015 at 3:30pm
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Hello all, Sorry for beeing absent for so long. Have had a lot to do and had my hands full getting the boat ready for the summer and as everything has been going smooth I've havn't had any specific questions. So I followed Joe's advice and put the engine back together being very careful to do everything by the book. I then went on fixing the interor with a new seats, some beer holders, a good stereo and so on. Last weekend I could take it to the lake and fire it up in water for the very first time. So far everything seems to work perfectly which is great. I even did some wakeboarding behind it without any trouble at all  Finally I've installed a tow hitch to my car so the '69s can travel in style :) . Does anyone know how much a 69' barracuda with a 351 weights? Now on to a few pics: Engine back together  Engine back in place with accessories  Put a new gascap on the boat, the small details that matter  In water!  That great feeling    The tow car got hitched!  Hope you're all having a great summer! Axel |
Posted By: Chevy350
Date Posted: July-01-2015 at 4:00pm
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Glad to see your having a blast with your boat! I love the Vette also! ------------- 1972 Mustang |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-01-2015 at 5:20pm
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you will have to get the crank machined and get new bearings for it.. Wow you boat has glass stringer and no core, that makes the job easier. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-01-2015 at 5:58pm
He didn't have to, and he won't it is perfectly acceptable to use an appropriate stone in that situation to debur and go on with life. It will have no negative effect what so ever on that bearing life. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: ultrahots
Date Posted: July-02-2015 at 2:52am
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Joe is absolutely correct. I have seen several a lot worse than this done in exactly the way he described. Glad to see you are out having fun with It ! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6960&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1980 Show Nautique |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-02-2015 at 12:53pm
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i replied on this not seeing second page so missed that he had already done it. Didnt know that cc used glass no core stringers on some older models. wonder y they started using a core? My 1967 hatteras had glass stringers, no wood and not core in hull. built like a tank and thats y she is still riding proud at 48 years old. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-02-2015 at 1:06pm
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They didn't,that was a job done by a PO. CC did not start to use glass stringers until most 93 models ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-02-2015 at 8:01pm
As Gary stated, CC didn't back then. The stringer replacement is discussed in the thread. It's interesting use of pultruded glass structural members. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-03-2015 at 2:56am
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Super nice all around! Beware those wrenches on the dash; sore toes, scratched gel coat... ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: July-03-2015 at 9:27am
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A Vette...Stars & Stripes on the wall...if it weren't for the license plate it looks like an American garage. . ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: July-03-2015 at 6:59pm
+1 Nice job on the rebuild. Nice garage too. Still.....it pains me to see a hitch on a vintage Corvette. Good entry for the "Show Us Your Tow Vehicle" thread. ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: terminaldegree
Date Posted: July-03-2015 at 7:58pm
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Good work, Axel! ------------- 1996 Sport Nautique GT40/Acme 422 |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: July-04-2015 at 12:14pm
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Very cool. Congratulations! ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: July-25-2016 at 11:45am
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Hey everyone! So last season was a bust due to transmission slipping and despite flushing it and changing fluid it wouldn't get better. During the winter I rebuilt the entire transmission changing clutch discs, bearings and gaskets and installet the trans back into the boat. Test drove the trans this weekend and the problem somehow remained exactly the same which is extreamly strange considering all my work on it. Symptoms include: - Transmission slipping when warm - Oil cooler lines hot on one side but completely cold on the other side. Entire outside of the cooler is sea cool. - Trans case gets hot quickly. As it's the only thing I havn't checked I'm starting to think that the trans cooler/lines are blocked/not flowing enough, anyone had that problem? Any other thoughts? Eveything in the tranmission looked good, I cleaned everything etc. I will take the cooler out and check that it's not blocked and I guess that the next step after is to monitor the transmission oil pressure which I'll try to do next weekend. Does anyone here know what threads/size the main pressure line tap is so I can get the correct adapter/gauge? Thanks / Axel |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2016 at 1:17pm
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Axel, You didn't mention if you checked out the pump. If worn and out of spec, it won't develop the needed pressure to apply pressure to the clutch pack and keeping them from slipping. Unfortunately, pump specs/clearances aren't published. I don't feel it's a cooling problem since the cooler is doing it's job - hot in cold out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-25-2016 at 1:36pm
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Best to put a pressure gauge in the NPT pipe port and see what it says. think its NPT 1/4" pipe, if not 1/8" pipe, have both. There is a port each for pump, fwd and rev, and they are not all the same size. I leave a gauge on mine all the time. If the pressure is high, could be an indicator of restricted flow. Low, could be bad pump. The best picture would be to sample all conditions. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:06am
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Well I didn't change the pump which was maybe my mistake then. Insspected it visually and it looked clean from scratches, burs or chips and felt tight in the pump housing. Is it common that the pump decays? I'll hook up a pressure gauge and check the pressures! |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:02am
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Yes, a 47 year old pump is always suspect. Best check the pressures. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: axelg89
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:43am
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Can anyone tell me if mechanical pressure gauges are the same for air and fluids. Found this in my local hardware store at a good price but it's in the compressed air section... does it matter? http://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/tryckluft/kompressortillbehor/tryckluftsbehandling/manometer-018028/ BR Axel |