strut leaks
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35495
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 7:44am
Topic: strut leaks
Posted By: camron18
Subject: strut leaks
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 8:15pm
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i have noticed water coming in my boat from around the strut back plate. i have seen people say to use m3 5200 and people say to never use it. What do you suggest? also would i put the sealer inside on the back plate or outside the boat between the strut and the hull? anything helps |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 8:35pm
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The question is whether 5200 is too strong of an adhesive for strut use. Some people prefer sealants with lesser adhesive properties (like 4200 or life boat caulk). I've used 5200. Either way, you'll want to bed the strut- don't seal the backing plate. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 8:39pm
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Cameron, Welcome to CCfan. How about telling us more about the boat and pictures are always welcome. If it's a CC, submit an entry to the diary section. The sealer goes outside between the strut and hull as well as in the bolt holes. 5200 is best for adhesion and 4200 is good but not as strong. The nice thing about the 4200 is it's easier to remove. When you loosen the strut, do keep in mind alignment. I'll link the alignment thread for you to watch. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 8:42pm
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21279&title=shaft-strut-alignment-video" rel="nofollow - here's the link to the alignment video. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 9:09pm
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it is a 1994 hydrodyne grand sport with a pcm 351 if my strut and drive shaft and everything are good and aligned now, will it be difficult to get the strut back aligned once i pull it off and put it back on? or would tightening up the bolts evenly get it aliened again? thanks for the help! |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 9:20pm
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Tightening the bolts will shift the strut alignment a little, so my advice is to 'dry fit' it (no goo), torquing the bolts all the way. Check your alignment one last time & then take it apart & apply the goo. I hate it when you have to make a modification when it is all dripping with that stuff! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2015 at 10:10pm
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Cameron, You may find that the holes in the hull have been slightly elongated. This is common even at the factory to make minor port to starboard adjustments. As Chris mentioned, tightening the bolts may shift the strut. The other adjustment for up and down would be shims between the strut and hull. It too is a common method even from the factory. For bedding compound, I have a hunch that Hydrodyne used silicone. DO NOT use the damn stuff!!! After re bedding the strut, make sure you do an engine alignment. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-06-2015 at 5:49pm
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okay so im going to pull the strut off. clean it and the hull where it beds like crazy. put the strut back on dry, check the alignment. if it looks good put 5200 on the strut and in the bolt holes, tighten it on and check the alignment again. does that sound like im on the right track? if it is already good and aligned hopefully it will still be aligned when im done? or will it need to be redone? thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2015 at 8:02pm
Cameron, You've got the idea but, if it's not aligned when you have it all bolted up, then yes it would need to be partially done again. The nice thing about both 5200 and 4200 is the long cure time. That gives you a chance to loosen and try again. Dry fit and see what happens. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
camron18 wrote:Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-06-2015 at 10:19pm
| thanks alot! ill give it a try and tell you how it goes! |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-16-2015 at 6:02pm
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well i noticed a lot of play in the cutless bearings, so i removed the shaft and strut and got the old ones ones out. I am having a hard time finding new ones. the old bearings are 1in x 1-1/4in by 2 in long. does anyone know where i can find some this size? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-16-2015 at 7:16pm
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Check out part # 2204 http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1119" rel="nofollow - here ,it seems they use a 2 piece now days. Part #12109 type has been used by a few here with positive results ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-16-2015 at 7:31pm
Is the wear even? If not, then I'd say you do have an alignment problem. Remember, alignment starts at the strut. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-16-2015 at 7:44pm
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The wear looks even for the most part, but i think that they are long over due for replacing. another concern is when i took the strut apart from the hull the old epoxy took some paint with it. is this going to be a problem when i rebed the strut? or can i just epoxy right over that spot? |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-16-2015 at 7:57pm
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When I took mine apart last year for the same job I listened to the great advice of the experienced guys on this forum. The job turned out perfect and the prop now rotates with one finger sitting dry on the trailer. It used to take a strong hand to turn. Take your time, do it right and you will be very happy with the results. As far as the chipped paint, you may have chipped the gel coat, most fiberglass boats don't have paint. I think the 5200 would seal right over a chip. It dries very hard and permanent. I used it for the great seal and holding power and I pray I never have to remove it. Do your test fitting. Make sure you read everything about proper shaft alignment and it will come out great. While at it is good to refresh on proper seating of the prop to the prop shaft. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-16-2015 at 8:37pm
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Cameron, You'll most likely be fine with the missing gel as long as the area isn't too big so the strut base still has plenty of support. How about those pictures? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-17-2015 at 2:27pm
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If he has a lot of cutlass bearing wear it is possible the shaft has a bend in it, or maybe just lots of hours on this boat? I replaced the factory cutlass bearing with the plastic/Delryn type. It has very little drag, fit perfectly and they claim it will last much longer. I have no idea about the lifespan, at 25 hours use it is still very good, I am curious if any here have high hours on this type cutlass bearing. |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 5:22pm
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Okay i got new cutlass bearings in and im ready to dive into the alignment. But i have seen on other posts that i have to heat up the coupling to get it on the shaft. My shaft an coupling are tapered, like the prop end. Should i still heat it up to get it on, or should i just tighten the nut to seat it on the taper like the prop? Thanks alot |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 5:25pm
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No heat needed for a double taper. http://elberts.com/driveshaft.pdf" rel="nofollow - ARE double taper shaft instructions ------------- |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 5:30pm
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awesome! Thanks! Everyone is so helpful!! 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 7:35pm
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As mentioned, no heat but you will need the special removal nut. Why are you removing the shaft from the coupling???? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 8:22pm
For your convenience here is the original post -   [QUOTE=camron18] well i noticed a lot of play in the cutless bearings, so i removed the shaft and strut and got the old ones ones out. QUOTE] ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 8:43pm
Well Gary, Cameron wouldn't have been able to remove the shaft completely without removing the coupling which is confusing. The only other option would be to remove the shaft forward but then the engine needs to be pulled. Maybe Cameron can solve the mystery? The reason I asked about the shaft, is you know it doesn't need to be removed for removing the strut. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-20-2015 at 9:02pm
| Now that you mention it, I guess I didn't need to remove the shaft.. But it was nice to have it out so I could bring it to work today and check if it was bent with an indicator. |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-03-2015 at 3:02pm
| So im going to use the 5200 to rebed the strut now. What should I do? Put it on the strut all around? A bead of it around the outside? Some on the hull? Put some in the bolt holes from inside the boat? |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-03-2015 at 4:41pm
| Well hopefully that's right. Cuz that's what I did. Covered the strut completely, filled in the countersinks, and put some down the bolt holes from inside. I tightened it urp slowly and the 5200 oozed out the sides. That stuff is sticky! |