Ford Interceptor Paint color/code
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Off Topic
Forum Discription: Anything non-Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35636
Printed Date: January-22-2025 at 2:22pm
Topic: Ford Interceptor Paint color/code
Posted By: MourningWood
Subject: Ford Interceptor Paint color/code
Date Posted: March-27-2015 at 11:34am
| Popped motor & trans out for a peek inside, and to clean things up a bit. (1964 Dunphy with Ford 312). Would like to repaint it with correct paint type and color. Anyone have the paint info? Thank you. |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-27-2015 at 11:56am
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This is the light green/blue I gather... Lots of discussion on that topic in the past, try a search. Because it will come up in a future search, I'll mention that we determined the later 60's Interceptors to be Ford Dark Blue (duplicolor 1606). |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2015 at 8:38pm
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Brian, There isn't a standard color that matches. The closest anyone has ever come to it is Reid when he rebuilt his 390 and word is he had it mixed. Alpine or Vista Green IS NOT the proper color no matter what anyone says!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-28-2015 at 12:27am
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I searched "interceptor Paint" here, but came up dry. Thanks for the tips. Yes, it is the pale greenish/bluish color. The previous owner spruced it up with a quick spray, covering most of any clean original color. I'll keep looking as I disassemble it. Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2015 at 12:31am
Did he even come close to the original color? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
MourningWood wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-28-2015 at 8:44am
| http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12408&PN=1&title=paint-color-for-interceptor-engine |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2015 at 9:17am
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Tim, Thanks for finding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12408&PN=1&title=paint-color-for-interceptor-engine" rel="nofollow - that old tread. The Sea Foam green I found back then isn't the answer ether. I pulled the sample I sprayed and it has darkened with time past the color of my aged 312 color. It is more green without the blue tint and yes, under different lighting shows up different. I thought I had it out of an off the shelf but now feel a custom mix is needed. The time will come when my 312 needs a rebuild but that's way down on my to do list. I hope I'm still alive when that time comes!  Speaking of lighting, I did use 5000 kelvin and the highest CRI florescent lamps in my shop build to try to overcome the color problems. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-28-2015 at 11:15am
Somewhere, there's a can of this on someone's shelf.
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Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: March-28-2015 at 12:04pm
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I did just get Sherwin Williams to custom mix some paint for our AMC 327 engine as a custom match. They did a good job and the oil based paint had pretty good oil resistence so I think will hold up well as an alternative to impossible to find colors for marine engine blocks. Time will tell. ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-30-2015 at 3:06am
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Yes, the prior owner used a reasonably close Chrysler blue spray bomb, but I want to do it better. Also, not to screw up my own post, but I realized I've never noted the engine rotation before starting teardown. Is this a standard, or a reverse rotation engine? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2015 at 7:58am
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It's a RR. What trans is on it? Dearbomatic or Velvet? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-30-2015 at 9:38am
| Pete, with a Y block doesn't a RR have timing gears and a standard rotation a timing chain, so pretty easy to tell for sure? |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-30-2015 at 1:35pm
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Thanks guys for the replies. Good group here. Pete, it has a Dearbo "C", works well but rear seal leaks, and shifter needs adjustment. I think the firing order is on the front cover, maybe I can check that. I do have manuals. Also, the phone with all my photos from Tahoe is, in fact, at the bottom of Tahoe. There is a video of the boat on Youtube...."Dunphy X55-Reno NV" for your viewing enjoyment. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-30-2015 at 1:42pm
| The numbers on the front cover indicate what engine, transmission and rotation it was from the factory. R or L is for left or right when looking at the engine from the rear. The info is only accurate if no changes have been made. If you haven't pulled the engine apart, whatever rotation that makes the distributor rotate counter clockwise is the correct rotation of the engine. We've got 2 Dearbo C transmissons, one which needs a rebuild if we ever get around to removing it from the engine. There's a manual for Interceptor Y blocks in the reference section if you haven't seen it. |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-31-2015 at 12:59pm
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Thanks again, all. With your help, have confirmed it RH rotation. Which, for a Ford, means 'reverse rotation' So now I can keep going. Will replace bearings and rings at minimum, refresh heads. Other than leaks, and low oil pressure, no real issues. |
Posted By: 63 Atom Skier
Date Posted: March-31-2015 at 2:25pm
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Note low oil pressure was common with the y-blocks. I have a 256 Y-block in my '63 Atom, which could probably stand a rebuild, but after doing a ton of research found that it wasn't uncommon for the old automotive y-blocks to throw on the oil light due to low oil pressure at idle. ------------- Jason |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-31-2015 at 3:01pm
| Yes, they do have oiling issues, mostly related to sludge buildup in the passages and return tubes. Modern oils have all but eliminated this issue. The other common oiling concern is inadequate oiling of the rocker shafts, remedied by enlarging the oiling groove in the camshaft. But because I am doing a "bare-metal" repaint of the engine and trans, thought it a good time to take a peek inside. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-31-2015 at 9:47pm
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The oil problem is solved by plugging the oil hole at the aft end of the rocker shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-31-2015 at 9:56pm
That's a very nice restoration except I'm surprised he did a back yard hack job on the bottom by fiberglassing it. The ply delamination is what put Dunphy out of business with the X55. I put a complete new bottom on mine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-01-2015 at 12:49am
Perhaps. I've seen restrictors in place there. At Edelbrock we do it differently. Yes, I would like to re-do the bottom too, but then, why not the sides, then maybe the keel, and so on, and so on, ands on....... He also cheaped the sides, by skinning over the original ply, but with only 8 foot lengths, resulting in vertical seams. Plus, the stain is too dark. So when I can find a supplier for the correct-sized plywood, I'll re-do it all correctly. Until then, I can do my motor work. Besides, it comes out in about 90 minutes. |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-06-2015 at 1:56pm
Soaked oil pan in solvent tank for a bit, and lo and behold, it took off the "sprayed-over" color and revealed the original paint. Greener than currently. It appears to have originally been painted over a white primer, and very durable. I'll have some mixed and post it here. 
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Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-07-2015 at 1:05am
Me thinks this guy Riley knows his Interceptor Y-Blocks....thanks! 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2015 at 8:00am
Brian, The ply used for the hull are scarfed from 8' sheets. To do this properly, the face veneer needs to be about 1/8" thick to allow for sanding the joint to blend for the bright finish. The problem is finding ply with that thick face veneer, The special ply Dunphy used came directly from a Philippians supplier. It was also the root cause of the delam since the ply used had a funguss so as soon as it got damp, it went bad. Besides the delam on my X, the inner keel was also full of rot. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2015 at 8:02am
This fix came directly from John at http://www.ford-y-block.com/" rel="nofollow - Y blocks forever. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2015 at 7:36pm
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Brian, Are we ever going to see pictures of the boat? Here's a couple of mine at GL before the gang chased me away from the sandbar telling me it wasn't a Correct Craft!!  http://s133.photobucket.com/user/brainard_bucket_bucket/media/DSC_0097.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s133.photobucket.com/user/brainard_bucket_bucket/media/DSC_0096.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-07-2015 at 8:04pm
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The youtube video mentioned above: ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2015 at 9:19pm
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Steve, Thanks. I did watch the video when Brian posted it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-08-2015 at 12:25am
Yep, just thought I'd make it easier for everyone... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-08-2015 at 12:37am
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Nice boat, Pete!!!!! My goal! Here's one of mine....don't have many pics, took a lot at Tahoe, dropped phone in Tahoe. 
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Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-08-2015 at 12:46am
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[/QUOTE] Brian, The ply used for the hull are scarfed from 8' sheets. To do this properly, the face veneer needs to be about 1/8" thick to allow for sanding the joint to blend for the bright finish. The problem is finding ply with that thick face veneer, The special ply Dunphy used came directly from a Philippians supplier. It was also the root cause of the delam since the ply used had a funguss so as soon as it got damp, it went bad. Besides the delam on my X, the inner keel was also full of rot.[/QUOTE] I'd love to know if the side ply was butt-jointed or what? With all the resources around Tahoe, surprisingly little Dunphy info. I guess very few X-55 made the trip West. I, too suspect keel rot, and will poke around there while the motor is out. Thanks for all of you taking time to post on this "off-topic" subject. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-08-2015 at 7:53am
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Brain, The ply was scarfed and nicely done. The blend line,was smooth and hard to see unless you went looking for it. Yes, I didn't know I had a problem with rot in the inner keel until I pulled the engine for flipping the hull. I did suspect it since the ply at the keel rabbit at the engine showed some signs. The keels were White Oak and I've seen one that was Ash. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-08-2015 at 4:39pm
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[/QUOTE] Brian, The ply used for the hull are scarfed from 8' sheets. To do this properly, the face veneer needs to be about 1/8" thick to allow for sanding the joint to blend for the bright finish. Besides the delam on my X, the inner keel was also full of rot.[/QUOTE] Scarfed. I thought you were using 'slang' for "harvested", or "scavenged". I've since learned that it is a wood-joining technique. Fascinating stuff. Thanks Pete. |