4v at positive coil?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35752
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 7:33am
Topic: 4v at positive coil?
Posted By: seacamper
Subject: 4v at positive coil?
Date Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:07pm
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Hey Guys, The 75 SN just quit today, and my initial test was key off, 0v at positive coil, key on, 4v at positive coil. I was expecting 12v with the key on. What should I have? Tom ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:18pm
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No less than 8v if you're running points and a ballast resistor. Presumably you checked for fuel and spark and the spark looked weak at best? Check the connections at the ignition switch and ballast resistor. Check voltage coming out of switch and to the resistor input as well. If those check out, try bypassing the resistor. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:22pm
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Tim's right on with checking the voltage but I suggest starting at the battery the into the ign. switch. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:54pm
| Tread with caution with my .02 but try jumping from the positive side of solenoid to the coil. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-11-2015 at 11:03pm
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On these boats you definitely want to start with checking out the wiring and connections to and from the ignition switch before messing with the resistor. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 12:01am
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I actually just pulled it home and was tired. I checked to see that the carb was spraying gas, and I did not check spark. I wanted it to be a quick fix, so I checked volts to the coil as a starter. I will go through a more methodical approach tomorrow, but I either expected to see 12v or 0v at the positive coil. Why would it be less? ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 7:51am
| Resistance |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 10:07am
| I was chasing an electrical gremlin last summer/fall. Boat acted flooded but wasn't and spark was weirdly intermittent. I was questioning the electronic distributor but doubted it'd be intermittent. Ended up being the the start contact on the ignition switch wasn't up to par and letting weak juice go through. Turns out it's been weak probably ever since I bought the boat. Now it cranks like its fuel injected. |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 11:37am
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So here is more background. I replaced the sending unit on the gas tank. The old one was never working, and I found it was not sending accurate signal. The replacement is one that has the float that slides up and down rather than on an arm. This was the first time we ran the tank low, counting on the gauge to be accurate. Well, I guess "Empty" is more like an eighth of a tank on the gauge. I think we simply ran it out of gas. So yesterday, I topped it off, dropped it in the water, and it still would not start. That led me to think it was electrical. Last night when I put it in the garage, I pulled off the flame arrestor, and pumped the throttle, and got a good gas stream out of the accelerator pump. That further made me feel that it was ignition related. That is when I did a quick check of the positive coil. This morning, I hooked up water, did a quick spark check. and had good spark. I shot some starter fluid in the carb, and "wah la". Started right up and ran good. So, I guess I pulled some gunk up from the low tank,caused enough of a blockage that it needed to fire up to create enough suction to pull the gun through the system? Is there an internal fuel filter on the Holley carb? I have half a can of Sea Foam in the tank right now. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 11:39am
I will go check that out because it is an old boat. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Orlando76 wrote:Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 12:05pm
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The carb will have an inlet screen that is part of the fuel line to carb connection fitting but not an internal filter per se. Just so we can rule out coil related issues, this isn't a situation where the boat is acting up only when the motor is warm? |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: April-12-2015 at 11:16pm
Time will tell, but the boat was not starting this morning when it was cool until I hit it with the starter fluid, then it acted fine. I am going to check the wires from the bat to the ignition to the coil and clean them all up. I had a long discussion with Backfoot this morning, and we discussed the fuel screen and the gas tank check valve. I will report back. Tom ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |