Leaking rudder - 2001 Super Air
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35884
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 6:21am
Topic: Leaking rudder - 2001 Super Air
Posted By: 2001SAN
Subject: Leaking rudder - 2001 Super Air
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 5:02am
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Hello all, My rudder is leaking at the bottom of the rudder port. I can see water seeping up by the base where the shaft meets the bottom plate. It almost looks like there is some sort of seal or gasket between the post and the plate. Do you think the rudder port needs to be resealed from below?  Any thoughts? D ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 7:33am
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Darren, There's no gasket. The port gets bedded to the hull with a bedding compound. I suggest 3M 4200. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 7:41am
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Hi Pete, Thanks for the prompt reply. The water is seeping up at the bottom of the post where the arrow indicates. Its at that point I can see some sort of black material between the plate and the post. Could that be the original bedding compound or something within the unit itself? Also, i hit something last week at idle speed. It was enough to bend the prop and it also looked like the bottom of the rudder made an impact though it was barely a scratch. The problem has resulted from this event. Darren. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 10:31am
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I hate to say it but when you hit something you likely broke something, like the hull. Its possible you just pulled loose the original sealant, but just as possible you cracked something. Either way you would need to remove and repair, and take a good look at the rudder and box while it is apart as well. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Watauga
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 10:39am
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Darren, I recommend pulling it totally apart and inspecting all the components, strut, prop-shaft, alignment, rudder packing, etc. You are going to have the prop repaired or replaced anyway, right? I think you should remove the rudder housing and inspect the cavity and the inside hull to make sure there isn't and damage to the mounting area, inside and outside. There is likely no damage but it would be good to verify that. Probably just disassemble, cleanup and reassembly. Clean all the surfaces and reinstall with 4200. The boat will be out of commission for a few days as the 4200 sets unless you get the fast curing type, which is usually available at Lowes or Home Depot. Since the boat weights a significant amount, even a slow speed strike can inflict a lot of damage. The season is still early - you have the time to do it right. If she were mine, I would use this opportunity to at least check the run-out of the prop-shaft, and alignment to the transmission, but would likely inspect the strut, install a new cutlass bearing and reseal the mount as well. If the leak was caused by the strike there may be more things wrong. If the leak was simply caused by the age of the sealant or improper application of sealant then the strut may also need to be resealed since it was likely installed at the same time by the same person with the same tube of sealant. ------------- http://goo.gl/t8gAkI" rel="nofollow - 1980 Rebuild http://goo.gl/TFsgCy" rel="nofollow - Diary Signpainter, Disaster Responder, Longline Barefooter |
Posted By: Watauga
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 10:42am
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Yeah, what Joe said. ------------- http://goo.gl/t8gAkI" rel="nofollow - 1980 Rebuild http://goo.gl/TFsgCy" rel="nofollow - Diary Signpainter, Disaster Responder, Longline Barefooter |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 11:11am
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Yeah, that all makes sense. I did take the boat out the following day and changed the prop. I didn't see any damage anywhere else and ended up using the boat the following day with no issues or vibrations what so ever so hopefully there is no major damage. I'll pull it out next weekend and have a closer look. Thanks for the replies, Darren. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 11:28am
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I hope your bilge pump works. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 11:55am
While I agree on pulling the port I think it's a little extreme to do all the above,he was only at idle. Sure he could check alignment,PCM recommends to do so every time a boat is launched -- who's doing that? If it was me,check the alignment,fix the port and if it's running smooth forget it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Watauga wrote:Posted By: Sleepyone
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:43pm
This is a very easy fix my friend.. I just had this issue but in a 87 where the wood was rotted between the thru hull and the outer hull area that surrounds this Rudder plug. Just pull it out of the boat and clean it up by removing all the old sealer from the bronze parts. Get you some 3M 4200 or I used the 5200 quick dry on mine SInce i already had it , but run you a very good bead of this all the way around the post near the square flange area and i mean a healthy dose of it! have someone push it back through the hull and put your your plate back on it and tighten the bolts. the 3M stuff will push itself back out around the flange and smooth it off with a wet finger in the area around the flange . You are then good to go.
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:50pm
Idle speed is no indication of damage potential. I was just out of idle and tagged a rock moving around 4 mph before and murdered the prop, pulled the strut out of the hull and bent it. The fact that the rudder is leaking now is a sign that giving it a good look would be time well spent. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:53pm
Ha ha! Yes, it does work. The boat sat for a week and there was about an inch of water in the bilge. I have it connected to shore power now so there is no issue with the battery. The water is seeping in very very slowly, barely a trickle but enough that I noticed after a week.
Yes Gary, smooth as silk. I was actually surprised that once the prop was changed there was no noticable shakes or vibrations at all. I will remove and reseal the port though and do the other checks. Fingers crossed there's no cracks etc in and around it. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 9:16pm
Darren, No vibrations is NOT an indication there's nothing wrong. If something is bent, it's in a bind that sometimes will hide vibration. DO A ALIGNMENT!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 10:29pm
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In a related threadjack, a while back at the marina the connection between the tractor and the trailer malfunctioned and the boat was a foot or so short of being all the way on, so the weight of the 360 in the ass end (v-drive) caused the tongue to go up and the rudder came straight down onto the ramp. There was no apparent damage to the rudder, post. or the glass, but when we put it into the water yesterday I noticed a leak somewhere between the washer and the post. It's never been repacked so I hope it just "broke the seal" of the old packing. Would it be safe to assume that a repack would probably solve the leak? And does anyone know where I might find a rudder schematic for a 75 Century? ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 10:34pm
Jeff,  ???------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 11:43pm
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Ok Pete.. I understand the basics but have never had to work on a rudder. Since there is no visible damage underneath or inside the boat the issue must be internal. Correct me if I'm wrong but new boats have o-rings, older boats such as this have packing, similar to a stuffing box. I know occasionally these must be repacked but I've never had any need to, and guess perhaps this impact jarred the packi.ng, or something else, loose. I'm guessing that internal 70's rudder mechanisms are all pretty much the same, regardless of boat manufacturer, and perhaps all came from the same source anyway. Externally, Correct Craft had a rounded rudder, and Century rudder is longer and rectangular. So...was hoping to look at some rudimentary schematic drawing of the mechanism to better understand, seeking to find out if there may be some other potential failure point i need to investigate, and looking for any general recommendation on troubleshooting and repair. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 12:34am
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Jeff, You are correct in comparing the rudder port to the prop shaft packing gland. It's just in a different position. If the rudder still moves freely and there is no visible damage, try tightening up the packing. Since the rudder isn't constantly turning like the prop shaft is, you can tighten it pretty good without worries of heating. If it still leaks, then pull it apart and repack it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 6:37am
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Ok, I've bought a dial indicator for the alignment check (as per petes video). Any thoughts on what to remove the old sealant with when rebedding the rudder port? D, ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 7:26am
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Darren, A multi tool (Fein or similar) with a knife blade works pretty good since you can get into a recessed pocket of a strut. Then switch to the sanding pad., ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 9:30am
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Cheers Pete. Multitool is bought. I plan to repack the rudder while I'm there but on the off chance the packing doesn't arrive in time (have to mail order) should I have any difficulty reusing the old packing? It's not leaking from the packing nut currently. D. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 4:34pm
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Pete, can you stick up a pic of the type of blade you mean? I can get hold of this but it's listed as a scraper as opposed to a knife. %20" rel="nofollow - http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-hcs-flexible-scraper-blade/89585 ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 7:29pm
It's the scrapper blade. With the oscillation of the muti tool, it does a great job. Even one of the fine tooth blades will work. Scraper blade:  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-29-2015 at 5:00am
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Great. Thanks Pete. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |