Repair options Please List
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35888
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 5:23am
Topic: Repair options Please List
Posted By: Sleepyone
Subject: Repair options Please List
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:36pm
Can you guys give me your expert opinion on how i need to fix this. The Gel coat is busted but the glass is very solid and all looks good. The Gel has Flaked off in this area but i want to smooth this back out and having a gloss finish is noat a concern,just want it sealed up and will sand it down smooth. This is the area where the Castle bearing hanger mounts under a 1987 Ski Nautique. I have it off to straighten and waiting on the A.R.E Shaft to come in.
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Replies:
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:54pm
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oof, if it were mine i would not just patch it i would grind back anything that is loose first, including the gel. I am not a fiberglass expert so take this advice at own risk. Then i would cut some glass cloth to lay in there where needed. Lay the needed layers and set it up you will probably need to use west systems 404 or 403 additive. to get the shape back, an easy way is either make a mold of the area with foam and fill all the areas needed and press the mold right up in there. and let it set up. when its all set up you can just spray the foam with acetone and it goes away leaving the west system in the desired shape. you could also use the strut as a mold to keep things flat just make sure to spray it with pam first. I use the foam method lot when making forms and molds, its pretty easy and west system is the only glass that you can do that with i believe. -Tony ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:57pm
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http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=382 ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 1:21pm
| I would remove anything that is loose or has voids in the glass just below it. If there aren't any signs of damage extending deeper into the hull (cracks, voids, delamination, etc), I'd build it back up with thickened epoxy resin. Maybe tint it white if you're fancy. You can always follow by a conversion coat and gel if cosmetics are a concern. It will probably take a few rounds of filling and grinding/sanding to get the shape right. |
Posted By: Sleepyone
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 4:41pm
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In talking with jamestown Distributors they recommend one of three options. 1.- 3M Marine Premium Filler 2 - TotalBoat TotalFair Epoxy Fairing Compound 3 - TotalBoat Thixo 2:1 Epoxy System 
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Posted By: Watauga
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 5:08pm
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Sleppyone, If it were mine I would grind all the loose stuff out of the cavity with a air grinder that looks like this.  and a bit that looks like this:  You can just use a basic 4 or 4 1/2 side grinder with a flapdisk on the hull areas outside of the pocket. Then I would inspect, just like everyone else has suggested, for damage beyond the gelcoat. If no further damage I would just go with the Thixo. It is a great product that will do what you need in this instance. When you apply the Thixo you will need to smooth it out with a applicator/ squeegee. Jamestown sells the 3m brand which is pretty soft and flexible, but if it is too big to maneuver in the recess you can cut it down to size with a utility knife. After the Thixo cures for 24 hours and you do the final sanding /shaping you can add more if needed to get the profile you need. The trick is going to be getting the pocket uniform so that you will be able to get the shaft alignment back where you need it. If mine, I would not worry about cosmetics until Fall, if ever. You should also take a look at Pete's alignment video and Eric's step by step. What caused the damage? ------------- http://goo.gl/t8gAkI" rel="nofollow - 1980 Rebuild http://goo.gl/TFsgCy" rel="nofollow - Diary Signpainter, Disaster Responder, Longline Barefooter |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-27-2015 at 9:08pm
Randy, I agree totally with Tim's advice, I'm also glad Jamestown steered you away from West. It's good stuff but you need to bend over when they stick you with their inflated pricing. The brothers are long gone so Tony needs to switch brands!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: Sleepyone
Date Posted: April-29-2015 at 10:41am
Ok guys i ground all the loose stuff out and sanded the area. Waiting on my Fairing material to come in to start my buildup and sand it back down.
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Posted By: Builderjeff
Date Posted: April-30-2015 at 11:50am
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I would grind out the whole area, basically counter sink the whole are as a rectangle. then you can lay glass into it to get it back to the proper thickness. once you have your glass sanded smooth do a skim coat"real thin" with you filler product. Skim coat over the glass and sand filler smooth, then spray the gel coat with a pre valve, or now they have gel coat in a can. I didn't save the link or I would leave it for you. if you have any questions I love making complicated answers(= I hope this was some help. Jeff Warner, E-Boat Inc. boatbuildercentral.com |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-30-2015 at 7:37pm
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Jeff, Welcome to CCfan. Are you a CC owner? If so, we'd love to see pictures. I like your repair method with one exception. Your process makes no provisions for strut/shaft/log alignment!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 10:01am
I think Pete checked on this & found that Mini-Craft discontinued the rattle-can gel. Could the mounting area just be left in epoxy, with no gel? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Builderjeff
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 11:13am
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I would atleast brush or roll some on, to seal it all up a bit better. OCD I never leave raw glass filler resin. I even paint new foam when poured into green hull. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 11:17am
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Please comment specifically on raw glass EPOXY resin? I think Chris's point is that epoxy is anhygroscopic. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 11:33am
| Gel is poly resin and every bit as hydroscopic as the glass in the hull. Epoxy resin is not hydroscopic and can be left bare without any issues, save for the fact that it's not uv resistant. It is otherwise a superior repair from a structural perspective. Cosmetic is another issue. |
Posted By: Builderjeff
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 11:42am
| I cant argue. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 11:51am
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You could argue with the word hydroscopic! LOL Curios to know how gelcoat stacks up in hygroscopy compared to other layup resins. Jeff, please don't take offense to this "disussion". It's not meant as argument. Your experience is very much welcomed. ------------- |
Posted By: Builderjeff
Date Posted: May-01-2015 at 12:01pm
| LOL(= |