1989 2001 SN
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36025
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 11:34am
Topic: 1989 2001 SN
Posted By: Russman
Subject: 1989 2001 SN
Date Posted: May-11-2015 at 2:38pm
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Hello, New to the forum and CC. I just purchased a 1989 2001 SN with 351W and 1.23. Original trailer with brakes. saw the boat, Stringers felt good, floor was near perfect and engine hours show 480 and motor looks consistent with gauge. Motor starts instantly and sounds very smooth, It was winterized last fall and used on occasion through the years. New steering cable and alternator. oil dirty, but just through lack of season ending change by look of it. Decided to risk pulling home from KY to OH and got about half way and right bearing went. (lesson learned) fortunately I discovered it before wheel came off and dropped the boat at a place that was secure and safe to leave it. Most likely will need the Hub, bearing kit and maybe an axle. Thinking of dropping the brakes from the trailer as my tow vehicle can handle it with ease. Local shop is repairing / replacing parts and I can get the unit home. Once home I am looking for ideas to make sure the boat is good to go for the season. Aside from changing the oil, and checking plugs and verifying belts and hoses are good any suggestions? Thanks   ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Replies:
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: May-11-2015 at 3:31pm
| Check the prop and cutlass bearing. Turn the prop, should turn pretty easily by hand and there shouldn't be much play between the shaft and the bearing. Looks like a nice boat. I ditched the brakes on my '92 trailer many years ago. If they ever give me a problem on my '89 they will be gutted also. |
Posted By: DMH
Date Posted: May-11-2015 at 4:43pm
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Welcome. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7506" rel="nofollow - 1982 SN 2001 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-11-2015 at 5:16pm
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tower off ------------- |
Posted By: xarmypilot
Date Posted: May-12-2015 at 12:07pm
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Welcome Russ! Always glad to see another Mid-Westerner on here. Sorry to hear about the trailer woes - been there, done that.. No fun  Beyond the other recommendations and items you've identified, I would recommend that you start the season off with a new RWP impeller. Few things can drive you crazier than cooling issues. Also ensure that you check the motor mounts. They should be quite snug and not spin freely. Also, once you get beyond the engine preventative maintenance, you'll want to check the drip rate for your stuffing box and rudder box before heading across the lake or down river. BTW, I agree with Hollywood  - it's a beautiful boat, but that tower looks pretty fugly ------------- '87 SN 2001 http://mbbw.com/WIP/DSCN9620.JPG" rel="nofollow - '68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-12-2015 at 1:22pm
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The motor mounts won't tell you much about the stingers, they are bolted to the aluminum engine cradle. You could check the lags from the cradle to the stringers. Fresh fluids, fuel filter/separater, RWP impeller and packing gland inspections are great suggestions. Steering and control cables move freely? Lights, blower and bilge pump work? Fire extinguisher on board? Make sure you're not leaking fuel anywhere. ------------- |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: May-12-2015 at 2:47pm
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Thanks. As Hollywood mentioned, I did check stringers and they seem good. Impeller is a good idea. We will test the waters with the tower for a bit as my boys are avid wakeboarders and skates. As far as I'm concerned stock is good. Other suggestions are good and make sense.. This is my first inboard. After a lifetime of I/O . So it feels like something's are old hat, but for some I'm a newbie. This boat will spend a lot of time in MI around and on Lakes Mecosta, round and blue. I'll condition teak on platform and rails as well as update the instrument panel as the lights and button area is somewhat beat up.. I will also add the nifty hose adapter I have seen here so I can have easy attachment while in the driveway to start and service. Any suggestions on what fuel to use or NOT to use? Eth-free? Also looking to replace or at least have a backup prop that is mainly an all around prop. Suggestions? Thanks and hope to spend time getting to know all. ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-12-2015 at 3:09pm
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I have a few props for sale, check them out. The only one that wouldn't work well for you is the (left hand) 543. There is also a recent fuel thread going on. I've never had a problem with any fuel octane or ethanol. No matter what the fuel, burn it as fast as you can! ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-12-2015 at 3:52pm
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TRBenj wrote:Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: May-14-2015 at 3:23pm
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Well, I was very fortunate. Trailer only needed bearings and the Hub was fine!!! relief, but I still need to pour over the trailer and bring it up to snuff. Looks like first run will be Memorial day weekend. ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-14-2015 at 8:36pm
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Great PM suggestions above. I would also change out the fuel water separator filter, unless the PO recently changed it. SkiDim has them. You will love the boat. It's like driving a marine Ferrari. Your boys will like the wake too. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: May-26-2015 at 11:32am
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Cleaned, brightened and oiled Teak on rails. came out very nice. Astonished actually at the difference. Now starting the swim deck - it will take a bit more effort but will look good when completed. Question????? Should I approach the top and bottom of the swim deck in the same manner or is there an added recommendation for protecting and sealing the bottom? Fluids changed, found record that impeller was changed in fall so skipped, Waxed hull, cleaned carpet, Waiting on fuel / water spin on filter (18-785) to change that out. Cleaned raw water filter and ordered an extra O-ring (just in case) Got a West Marine version of a Fake-a-Lake and really question how much water gets flows as it seems most is flying out under the boat. Had water flowing out of back but was cautious. Quick connect T under Hood is in the works for sure. For oil I went to the Mobil 1 15W-50 with the Fram part XG8A (seems Xtended name is no longer used) Having a little difficulty getting some of the more stubborn mildew spots and stains off Vinyl. Any suggestions? Hope you all enjoyed your Memorial day weekend. ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: throttle out
Date Posted: June-03-2015 at 9:29am
| For the vinyl, I use Simple Green with the finest steel wool you can get. soak the wool with simple green keep the seats wet and scrub it well. after the cleaning is done, make sure the vinyl is dry and free of residue, use Armour All or turtle wax 2001 dressing. I like to apply it super liberally and let it set in for a bit before I return with a clean cloth and wipe it down. Those seats will look new again!! |
Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: June-03-2015 at 9:36am
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I wouldn't use Armour All on my seats. I use babes seat soap and seat saver. No silicon in it. When I had my seats redone on my 89 2001, my upholstery guy said Armour All was bad for vinyl. ------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: scootdogydog
Date Posted: June-03-2015 at 10:02am
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Russ, instead of the fake-a-lake, do something like this: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23440&title=raw-water-hoses-garden-hose-connection" rel="nofollow - garden hose connection it's under $15 FWIW, this was my google search to find an image of this for you: garden hose site:correctcraftfan.com ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7183" rel="nofollow - 1999 Python 1980 Ski Tique 1968 Mustang WIP |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-03-2015 at 10:17am
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If you need to use steel wool on your vinyl then Armour All is good enough. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: June-09-2015 at 11:12am
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Hey all, After a couple of weeks of work and a few trips I now have cleaned everything up except waxing the hull and changing the registration numbers. the last picture is a shot from when I purchased to compare swim deck then and now.     ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: June-09-2015 at 11:15am
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Sorry about some of the pics sideways or upside down. Perhaps a MOD can arrange? ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: wataugasn84
Date Posted: June-10-2015 at 1:47am
You have got yourself a beautiful SN2001. Welcome and Prop's for posting pictures. WE love Pictures!  ------------- Watuugasn84 |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: June-22-2015 at 2:11pm
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Hello, First run last Friday. overall all went well and as hoped. Did have a couple of issues that I need to address. 1. Dash Panel buttons for the auto and manual bilge pump both stuck in off position. Need to fix. Hopefully not a big deal. 2. Had some cavitation at about 3000 rpms. Looking at a new Acme prop 442 (422) which should change drive and I will re-evaluate. 3. PSI running at 60 which is about 3/4 on gauge. - Is this normal? 4. Right side Speedo not working. Could be anything from improper winterizing to bad gauge. Need to figure out. 5. Carb most likely needs a little tune. 6. Little whine in the transmission. Both forward and reverse. 7. reverse seems to only want to go one direction. Is this normal or am I just an amateur with inboards? Have to say the SN did better overall than I expected and the wake was also bigger than expected. Lot of smiles all around from riders. ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: halfnelly
Date Posted: June-22-2015 at 3:16pm
1. Had the same problem with the push buttons in my 94, I just ordered new breakers rather than try and get the originals working again.. 2. Cavitation or a vibration? A vibration would be more likely, commonly caused by bent prop blades, worn strut bushing, or bent shaft. A new prop may fix this, but I'd check for play in the strut bushing while you're at it. 3. I'd say that's normal. Mine reads 40 at idle and 60 underway. 6. Since you have a 1989, I'm assuming it's a 1.23:1 reduction PCM trans. These have a distinctive whine to them, should be normal. 7. Welcome to the wonderful world of inboard prop torque. It will pull pretty hard to port in reverse, if you can get enough of a running start, the rudder will eventually start winning the fight and it'll turn the other way. But always plan on it sliding to port in reverse. |