Stringers using Coosa
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36681
Printed Date: September-27-2024 at 1:37pm
Topic: Stringers using Coosa
Posted By: shierh
Subject: Stringers using Coosa
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 2:32pm
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Im restoring an 83 and decided on Coosa. using 3/4 x2 for main stringers 3/4 for secondary. Not using foam. Im going to be using system of cross braces to give lateral support. Im trying to verify if there is a need to use a flex beading compound for coosa such as PL or simply use thickened resins. Also Im using the current CC resin which is a epoxy/vinyl ester type.. Deck will be 3/4 Coosa and likely bonded with thickened resin or PL. possibly use ss deck screws to hold in place instead of using weights to hold down. Any thoughts? |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 4:05pm
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Do a search and look for JoeinNy or TRBenj stringer jobs as they have gone that route. They might be too busy to answer this week though,they are most likely getting ready for the reunion this weekend. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 5:33pm
| Joes will be a better reference since he did a 2001 as well. Gary's right, long to do lists this time of year! |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 6:08pm
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I certainly did it a little different than what you describe but don't see any reason why what you are talking about wont work. Mine is in http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5635&PN=5&title=a-351w-stroker-from-scratch" rel="nofollow - this thread same boat as yours. The stringers have quite a few hours on them now and are showing every sign of being able to outlive me. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 7:19pm
Steve, Screws are simply a stress point that is prone to fracture. Stick with the bonding. BTW, leave the SS deck screws for the deck. If they see water from a stress fracture, they will rust especially the 400 series deck screws. Don't forget we want plenty of pictures! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
shierh wrote:Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 10:54am
| not finding anything using the search. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 11:21am
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ok found it. Joe looks like he beefed it up quite a bit for the high hp engine. Dont see the need for glass on top of floor as the coosa is strong enough. Im going to roll on coat of the resin to seal it on top since carpet holds water. Im going as light as possible. One thing im still not sure of is the need to bed the stringers since not wood. looks like the ply and fir need beding using foam spacers but not clear on the coosa. I would guess that beding using thickened resin direct to hull is all thats needed. see no reason to have any significant space. any thoughts? I also have some 3/4 nida core board that i got for a steal. 4x8 sheet that is already laminated on both sides. this will be used for the removable part of the deck and also where driver seat and spotter seat are.. going to install round deck plate under spotter seat to access the through bolts and also give a place to vent the hull sides since not going to use any foam. , going to notch top of all cross members to allow it to breath. and of course notch bottom corner to drain. I start this friday. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 11:47am
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The reason for the glass on the top of the floor is to strengthen the sides by joining them to the floor. You step the glass from the floor up the sides. The stringers should be bedded that’s how they strengthen the hull by using a step out series with the glass incorporating the hull and stringer as one. You really don’t need to notch the top as long as you provide a pathway for the water to escape air will be able to get in. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 1:00pm
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Understand monolithic structure. if deck is bonded to stringer and support system and to sides then it will stiffen the entire structure. However i doubt it adds much if anything to the sides of the boat since it sits only 6" or so from the bottom edge and the top of the hull is surrounded by the upper shell. Upper shell gives support to sides. If this was a very thin hull boat then i would agree floor would provide extra support for sides. Origninal lay up on floor was thin sheet of chop mat that ran up sides about 6". chop mat has no real strength by itself.. Dont believe the original floor added anything to side strength on these boats. I dont plan to cover entire floor in mat, will however back cut outer edge on top so that i can fill with peanut butter with some chop strand in it. possibly one transition layer up the side and out on floor. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 1:08pm
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On my '85 the glass separated from the walls in a section which is where I had spider web cracks in the gel coat. Coincidence I think not, the sides are not very thick on these boats. And by the way the floor in these boats are nothing but matt and resin applied over the foam. The only place theres a wood floor is in front of the pylon to about the dash. This is the only place there is wood for a floor http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/IMG_0534.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 7:46pm
You had better look at the modulus specs in the horizontal.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:25pm
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:27pm
 
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:31pm
    
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:35pm
  
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:38pm
  
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:54pm
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Heads were cracked between valves, both sides. overheated. got replacement e7 heads and machined them. block bored 30 over . sadly this was a new engine 12 years ago only used one summer then boat was left to rot was not pickled. risers cracked and leaked into cylinders from freeze and the boat was covered on an off with plastic and left outside. in fl this makes a green house. ruined everything.. trans was good , i took it apart myself, it had no wear, signs of prior rebuild. installed new seal kit and its good. engine is almost done, had to wait for a reverse rotation rear seal, was able to find a supplier with an one piece reverse rotation seal. now have to wait until mid august as the friend doing the engine is in bahamas until then. so im starting stringers this weekend and will have them ready to install the engine at end of next month |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 9:18pm
I like the gold and blue looks sharp. Ya got to lose the Fram oil filter though 
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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 9:23pm
Looking good  ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 11:48pm
 my last project boat 1967 hatteras |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 3:27pm
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Fun began over weekend. removed port outboard stringer and ripped up the chop strand that held it. Decided it was easier and less mess than grinding. used air hammer and ran it under edge and then pried with a thin wide pry bar. going to do same with main stringers. removed prop shaft ,strut, rudder and rudder housing. shaft in good shape, Cutlass bearing shot but thats easy especially since strut has been removed. Sending prop to shop to have it scanned, looks good but may as well make it perfect. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 2:22pm
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I used a masonary diamond blade on my 4" grinder. Sliced right through the glass around the base of the stringer with not a lot of dust. Then was able to pop the stringer out in one piece. This is after pealing the glass off them. http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/IMG_0578.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  After a little clean up http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/IMG_0581-1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 3:52pm
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i have NO wood left, yours were in way better shape. I will have nothing to template with. took out port out board stringer broke in half but can sort of use as template. i pulled off all the mat/chop strand holding it to hull by using air chisel and then power washer with spinner head, its pretty clean. will finish off with grinder to have proper media to bond to. the rudder backing plate was full of water and rotted, took it out and found the chop strand under it was soaked to the base hull, same goes for the center backer plate on transom. all the filler glass and bonding glass has been removed from both areas. plan to cut the last 6" of the main stringers off to allow me to smooth the whole transom and bond one sheet of structural mat. I want it behind the main stringers. Then build up the center 10" of the curve transom with chop and bi ax. same goes for rudder mounting area. make the rudder mount area flat glass. Will then bond in the outboard stringer then cut out port main stringer and so on. also this boat was damaged about 12 years ago, the rear lifting ring pulled out when hanging in a boat house and rear of the boat went under water. Correct Craft did the repair and claimed to do it out of warranty just because. Well you should see what South East Correct Craft did to repair, they slapped on some glass on transom interior. then covered the torn up rear gunnel with teak wood,,, they did not even fix the torn up gunnel, it was ripped in 4 directions about 10" out from the center where ring fits. the sub structure is not completely rotted away.. im repairing from underneath, not fun. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 3:55pm
| forgot to mention that the carpenter ants removed all the rotted wood and left only dirt. had to kill a million of those things when i first got it home. |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 4:10pm
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Great story, keep it coming! ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 4:20pm
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More pics if you can. Where in Florida are you located? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 5:16pm
| apopka, |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 5:20pm
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Boat was purchased new by prior owner. she ran it from 1983 until 2005 then got a new one. let is sit in the weather for last 10 years. sometimes put a plastic cover on it which caused a greenhouse and sped up the deterioration. It was a complete basket case that i got for 200.00. Boat spent its whole life on the butler chain. I believe the tanic acid water in that lake sped up the corrosion inside the engine. friend says it appears to have been in salt water but it had never been in it. also engine was only 2 years old when she quit using the boat. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-20-2015 at 10:58am
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installed the new port side stringer, bedded it with vinyl ester-cabosil. Did not glass it yet. Removed port main stringer and am prepping surface. Will make that one this week and bed it. then glass them together. Keeping the hull clean with power washer and spinner head. rips up the loose fibers , reduces the glass in the air and on me. Also the bonding surfaces will be very clean. |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-20-2015 at 11:38am
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My cutting method of choice is a pnuematic cutoff wheel with water nozzle aimed at the wheel with some zip ties. Kinda like a dentist drill ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-20-2015 at 12:15pm
| ive seen that before. thought of trying to do the same. I am also using pneumatic cut off wheel. and chisel. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-29-2015 at 11:43am
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have the 2 port side stringers bedded in , will glass tomorrow. I decided to use 4 layers of bi-ax where the engine sits and 2 for the remainder. , outside will get one layer then 2 where the x brace from engine are placed. Had to grind out all the glass mat where the rudder mount is. it was all wet down to the hull layup. Will build it back up flat then use coosa backer. Also found that Correct Craft Dealer,SE Correct Craft, had reinforced the shaft tube area and pylon area with what appears to be bi ax and epoxy. Going to grind them smooth and lay one more layer and will have to use epoxy so no bond issues. (rest is vinyl ester) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-29-2015 at 8:54pm
Careful with the composite. It won't like to be compressed by the rudder port mounting. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: July-29-2015 at 10:39pm
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Your oil pan looks just like mine. I noticed the dipstick tube patched into the side of the pan like mine also. Is that factory? I am interested to know how much oil it takes to the full mark. On my 78 SN I put in 5 litres.....which is just under 5.3 quarts.....and I get to half way between ADD and the end of the dipstick. I put it down to the patch job being off and have never seen the oil pressure dip during cruise......however if I am supposed to run more oil I would like to know. Thanks. Corey. ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-29-2015 at 10:55pm
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That is an oem Pleasure Craft Marine oil pan,and has not been modified. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-29-2015 at 11:24pm
Here is one off an early '90's - ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: July-30-2015 at 3:48am
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Yup....that is what mine looks like, except I have 4 bolts not rivets holding the dipstick in....which is why I thought it was a home modified one. What is the oil capacity of that type of pan? Thanks, ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-30-2015 at 1:19pm
I'm not thinking there is going to be a problem compressing coosa with any kind of skin over it. It is not exactly Styrofoam, compression strengths are similar to that of wood perpendicular to the grain. The penalty in compressive strength is more than made up for buy it's resistance to water absorbtion and rot in this application. Even someone using wood for stringers should seriously consider coosa for hull backing applications such as this one- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 11:48pm
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Steve I have a question for you and it may have already been answered somewhere in this string, so if I'm being repetitive please accept my apologies. I have another string in general questions I have been posting to and I'm looking for a little confirmation. I am in the process of restoring a 1963 17' American Skier. I am currently working in the hull and have unwrapped the stringers. Mine are a little different than yours however your main stringers look identical to mine from your pic. My motor stringers are 2x Fir and the outer are 1x Fir. My plans are to fillet and rewrap with 1708 biaxial glass (main stringers). I purchased easily enough to do 2 layers and did so very early. As I unwrapped my stringers I was surprised. to find they were tabbed with CSM and the overwrapped with a single layer of (im guessing) 16 oz. or so roving. I have done glasswork before, but have not used 1708 and was quite alarmed at the weight of the roll that arrived. So the meat of the question is this. Do you have any idea what they had down when you were removing your stringers? You have quite a bit more motor in your boat, mine (hopefully) will see the return of it's little 6 banger. I'm trying to balance strength and weight and since I have a quite narrow space between my main stringers and the outer stringers I'm concerned that at two layers of 1708 in stepped overlap on the bottom of the hull is going to create quite a bit more thickness and rigidity on the bottom of the hull and result in an area that will be prone to stress by virtue of the amount of resin this stuff will sop up and deposit. There's quite a bit of material there now and since I have never tinkered with one of these beasts some of it is tuff to identify as original layup or what may have been a previous addition. From all appearences, my stringers appear to be original and the way they were assembled had all the appearences of employees that once were building in wood. Any insights you have would be appreciated. BTW your motor looks great! |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-04-2015 at 11:11am
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my outside stringers were also 1x fir, they had a wide area for floor support but basically the same. Didnt have much glass on them, one thin layer of chop stran. Yes the stitched bi ax is very heavy stuff. I went over Kill. I believe 2 layers will be enough but i used 4 under engine cradle. Sort of matched the prior layup under engine. I had a little trouble bending over the top of stringers, didnt round over enough i guess. Have a bulge to grind off so cradle will fit. I dont know your hull but am guessing it was likely over built as most fiberglass boats in the 60's were. For instance, on my 1967 hatteras i was told by a factory guy that if the hull flexed when they pulled it from the mold, they dropped it back in and put in more glass. Bottom of that boat was 1" thick, solid and sides were half inch thick. it was a beast. Anyhow point being is that you may not need as much glass as you think but on same token i would use 2 layers on the main and one on the secondary. As far as a hard spot, all i can say is remove all the glass layers that they used to install the stringers. grind down to the original hull. |
Posted By: dangerwil
Date Posted: August-04-2015 at 11:52am
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That 1708 is just what you need. When I removed the stringers in my Mustang I had much the same situation. Primary stringers were tabbed in with heavy woven roving. Entire stringer was not covered. Just around engine area and at the ends. I chopped out all the original foam and found bare fir! The secondaries were the same but just tabbed in with a single layer of CSM. When I replaced the stringers with cypress, I did a layer of CSM followed by a layer 1708 then another layer of CSM and 1708. Overlapping 4 inches on first layup, 8 inches on second. The secret to get the 1708 to lay over the corners is to round the tops of the stringers a bit. When laying up, use a small roller and wet out the bottom side of the 1708 then flip it over and will be very supple and go right in to place. Friscoboater on youtube did a great series of videos on layup in his cvx-18 restoration. 
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Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 4:11pm
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This http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28325&PN=3&title=floor-repair-and-exploration" rel="nofollow - Thread has many tips from the guys here using Epoxy ... that may cross over to poly/vinyl work. Thanks for posting your project.  ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 2:44pm
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Sorry for the delay in getting back guys. Thanks so much for your input. Sorry I don't have any pics with me to post, I will however soon. Yesterday my son and I applied filletes and did a little spot grinding. Your information was quite helpful. Their had been some repair work done to the hull in the transom area. Bad patch a single layer of boat cloth and it wasn't even wetted out. came off like a bad band aid (my sons description). Anyhow at some point they knew they had a leak and they packed tar caulking around the rudder plate. Did not appear to be the leak. So. During hardware removal, I could not get the lifting eye / cleat out. It was rusted to the angle attachment to the transom inlay. So I removed the inlay and ground everything down and discovered some stress cracking and almost what I would call crushing or delamination of what appears to have been just multiple layers of original CSM. I then remembered the previous owner said they used the cleat frequently instead of the pylon (why???). I get the impression this was a result of probably tubing. Lift eye / cleat was probably great for lifting (straight line) and obviously docking probably not so much the way the load would transfer for pulling. the lift eye base was slightly above the deck instead of flush so.... Hey I have seen the "Friscoboater" series on you tube - great information. I was just trying to make sure I build in enough strength in the assemblies. His boats I believe were both outdrives with quite dissimilar motor mounts. I going to use the original or re-made engine beds as constructed. Don't want my stringers to fold up  Many thanks again!!
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 9:26pm
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well i thought by taking out stringers one at a time and replacing while on trailer that there would be no hull sag issue. Well removed starboard outboard one and then re fitted it and found the front was up about an inch. jacked up hull under windshield and it fit again. I installed it with boat jacked up and then removed engine stringer. My problem is that i installed the port side while on trailer and its glassed in. will jack it up next week and take a strait edge to it and see how it looks.... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 9:41pm
 Good guess on the tubing issue,It's been mentioned many times that the lifting eyes are designed for a vertical load. There are even decals on some models warning about using them for pulling. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-10-2015 at 3:32pm
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Mine had issue where the rear ring tore out and boat sank in boathouse. Correct Craft fixed it. What a joke on their repair. They covered up the ripped out area with teak and didnt even fix the torn up glass or backer board. they installed new mount and used some hacked up used parts. It was done at SE Correct Craft who most will know was Walter Malones dealership. Now I know why he isnt a dealer any longer nor part of the factory. I have the rear area ground down underneath and getting it ready for coosa backer with bi ax layer on both sides. also wood backer on transom was full of water when i cut open the glass. All Correct Craft did was dig out some rot and fill with epoxy and skin it over with Biax. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:29am
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All 4 stringers are now in. Will finish leveling them off this weekend and make and install x members and start on floor. Working on body work at same time. all hardware has been removed including windshield. Entire top and sides of hull have been sanded to good gelcoat. Its a plain white wrapper at this time. grinding out blisters and will fill as i go. Bottom is heavily blistered and lots of stress spiderweb from removal of stringers. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 5:55pm
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im a little behind with photos. cant load from i phone and having trouble with pc loading Im done with structure. notching the stringers for the engine mount bolts this week and making battery box and the 2 bulkheads forward of engine. will also work on vent tubes. Im starting on body work, have hull sanded from waterline up and blisters fixed. Going to shoot gelcoat this weekend on hull and possibly top side. I was able to set up my gun to get it pretty smooth on practice board. Still plan on engine install next friday. so far ive used 15 gallons of resin on stringers and other repairs and will use 2 to 5 more. Used 50 feet of heavy stitched biax and 15 feet of light stitched biax. about 30 feet of chop strand that is in a 12 inch roll. 2.5 sheets of blue water 26 coosa. Remaining supplies are 2 full sheets of coosa and one sheet of nydacore. Nydacore will be used for removable deck panel and in front of engine. Coosa on sides. Will have one sheet left over. Using the Gelcoat i got from Correct Craft factory, have a friend working there. Its thinned waxed and sprays pretty good from hvlp 2.0 gun. Mystic White is the color. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: September-08-2015 at 11:40am
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Stringers are done. the side floor panels are glassed in and installed backer plate for rudder and for rear lifting ring mount. I decided to flip boat over on the trailer to do blister repair. There are hundreds of them. I took boat to the coast and had the Cape Marina flip it over using travel lift. only cost 80.00. its sitting on 4x4 with styrofoam pads. I was able to do in an hour with it upside down that would take me a whole day lying on my back under the thing. All blisters are opened up and first coat of fill is in. Going to take 2 coats to make it smooth and flush. also with it upside down i can now say that the hull is very even, no bulges from stringer removal error. Will finish fairing friday evening and saturday and hope to shoot gell coat sunday then take it back next weekend and flip it over again and install engine. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-08-2015 at 7:29pm
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After shooting the gel, are you going to wet sand & buff, or just leave the orange peel? If WS-buff, your schedule seems aggressive. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: September-08-2015 at 11:19pm
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will wet sand and buff yes it will likely take one weekend |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-08-2015 at 11:28pm
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You must have strong arms or really helpful friends. I wore my arm & shoulder out sanding cars years ago. Please take some pix for us when it's done. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-08-2015 at 11:30pm
| You either have better tools than me or a small army helping you, ha. I had about 40 hrs into the deck of my Ski Nautique, and that was just bringing the color and shine back (400 grit +). Orange peel is a bit more serious. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: September-08-2015 at 11:37pm
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i can wet sand bottom then flip it and finish the rest as a space filler im painting top side so it wont be that bad |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: October-26-2015 at 3:03pm
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: October-26-2015 at 9:55pm
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: October-27-2015 at 5:07pm
| http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/15695/IMG_2206.JPG |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: October-27-2015 at 8:28pm
There you go Steve ..... Use the quote option to look at the difference between the posts. Requires the {IMG} tags (tree without arrow) to display pictures once uploaded to site. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: BlakelyMarine
Date Posted: January-04-2016 at 7:14pm
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I have a 63 skier hull, that has been thrashed by weather over the years. Not much left. I have what I believe to be some good parts. I really hate to haul to the dump but are you by chance looking for any hard parts or motor accessories? Strut, prop, motor hatch, gauges, shift linkage, complete 144 motor, etc. In Oklahoma, please PM me and I'll be happy to let you know what I have. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-04-2016 at 7:23pm
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Blake, I suggest you post the items you have for sale in the "boat parts for sale" section. Also, pictures would be great. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 12:31pm
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I know this is a old post I found, but can someone tell how to see the Photobucket photos if possible. Thanks JT |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 1:02pm
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Thaats OK I figured it out Thanks |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 1:27pm
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So how'd you finally figure it out ? The pictures that is |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 4:00pm
wow forgot I started this thread and what a complete piece of crap I started with. Went from that to this.
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 4:17pm
There is a add-on for Opera and Firefox that fixed it, for now... |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 4:18pm
Lookin GREAT!! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 5:30pm
Glad you got it figured out, seems like somebody told you about the Opera add on back on Feb 19th when you first started asking about this And gave you a link to it too.
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