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Motor hard to start

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36689
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 1:54am


Topic: Motor hard to start
Posted By: wakespirit
Subject: Motor hard to start
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 8:29pm
Dear all,

I have a correct craft ski naitique from 1990 pn whish I just complete a carb rebuild.
What is happening to me after this is that motor is hard to start from firts time.

I bet the feeling that too much fuel goes in the carb and starting gets hard. After manu try without placing any gaz, motor finally start, but caughting for a whilzna finaly get lauched.

When motor get a bit warmer,the no problem to start.

I have notice that during cold start, the electrical choke position is completely closed and when motor warmup, start to open.

Any idea why I get dificulties to start my motor when cold ? Could it be the choke position to be a little bit open ?

thanks for help
Regards



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-08-2015 at 8:34pm
Originally posted by wakespirit wakespirit wrote:



Any idea why I get dificulties to start my motor when cold ? Could it be the choke position to be a little bit open ?

thanks for help
Regards

Yes, adjust the choke plate so there's 1/8" opening when cold. Give it a try and get back to us.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Sleepyone
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 10:33am
If it only does it when cold or after setting for a period of time it may be siphoning the gas back to the tank. I would suggest a small inline clear ( Viewable) fuel filter on the fuel line just before the carb. This way you can keep the engine box up and see how long it takes for the fuel to get up to the carb. I have seen the carbs leak gas while setting into the engine and the bowls be about empty and then the fuel line has to prime back up as well. You can also take a small squirt ( Being very sake of course ) of gas into the carb upon ignition to see if it trys to crank faster. If so its not getting fuel to the engine fast enough upon dry starts.


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 10:38am
I concur with Pete, choke is preloaded too much.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-09-2015 at 8:33pm
Originally posted by Sleepyone Sleepyone wrote:

I would suggest a small inline clear ( Viewable) fuel filter on the fuel line just before the carb. This way you can keep the engine box up and see how long it takes for the fuel to get up to the carb.

Randy,
If the clear filter is the common one found at many marine supplies that comes with different size hose barbs, you are recommending a potential BOMB!!! Read the specs and I feel you will find it's for outboards for suction service only and not designed for pressure service between a fuel pump and carb. I HIGHLY recommend you do some searching on the USCG regs. They are VERY specific. There are several older threads on these clear filters. Hopefully you don't have one and hopefully you haven't used hose and the plastic hose barbs.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Sleepyone
Date Posted: July-10-2015 at 10:25am
NO its a Glass Performance filter element for Performance applications and I stated ( you can keep the engine box up and see how long it takes for the fuel to get up to the carb) You don't have to leave it on. Don't you always say investigate the problem before you swap parts? All my fuel line is stainless Braided Hose. and all AN fittings. I have no hose clamps on a fuel system from the pump to the carb.


Posted By: wakespirit
Date Posted: July-10-2015 at 4:19pm
Dear all,

I finally sligmy open the choke at cold positionand my boat now start right away.
Thanks to all


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-10-2015 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by Sleepyone Sleepyone wrote:

NO its a Glass Performance filter element for Performance applications All my fuel line is stainless Braided Hose. and all AN fittings. I have no hose clamps on a fuel system from the pump to the carb.

The hose isn't USCG approved. Is there an approval on the filter? How about a link?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: wakespirit
Date Posted: July-12-2015 at 7:34am
Slightly opening the choke works perfectly well. Thanks


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: July-26-2015 at 9:28am
Please explain how the choke is adjusted to slightly open it. Thank you.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2015 at 10:09am
Steve,
First, start cold without turning on the ignition. Loosen the round choke bimetalic spring housing. Adjust the housing so the choke butterfly is slightly open. Some find it handy to use a 1/8" drill bit as a guide between the butterfly and the carb throat. Tighten the spring housing. Don't drop the bit down the carb!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: July-26-2015 at 10:51pm
Thank you Pete!


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: August-08-2015 at 10:54pm
Ok, I attempted to adjust the black plastic choke housing. Moved it left a few clicks, but the choke opening doesn't appear more open. I am probably not understanding something correctly?





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 8:31pm
Originally posted by DrStevens DrStevens wrote:

Ok, I attempted to adjust the black plastic choke housing. Moved it left a few clicks, but the choke opening doesn't appear more open. I am probably not understanding something correctly?




Pull the cover off and take a look inside to make sure the coil is seated.

Does it open with power applied? Check to see you are getting power to it with the ignition powered up. Ohm out the coil to make sure it's not a open (no resistance). If it is, you will need a new bimetallic coil.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 9:03pm
Hi Steve

Pete explained up a few posts how to adjust it, he just didn't say which way to turn the cap.

You only have 2 choices and you picked the wrong direction to turn the cap if you're trying to open the butterfly some.

It seems logical to turn it left or CCW to open it, but you need to turn it to the right or CW to open the butterfly .

It's a funky set of linkages in the housing.

KenO


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 11:09pm
Thank you guys. It is a new carb I bought from the boatDr about 2 years ago. I am hoping to get my boat just a bit less cold blooded. I only am around the boat on the weekend so it will be next weekend until I can get to it and utilize your knowledge.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2015 at 11:24pm
Steve,
Fords are known to be cold blooded! My 302 takes about 3 pumps of the helm accelerator and then generous throttle while it warms up and that takes several minutes. What happened to the old carb?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: August-10-2015 at 8:18am
Pete, Jeff Connors took to old carb, as it was not functioning well. I believe he fixed it up and recycled it into one of his projects, or parts warehouse. Jeff has a lot of CC's.



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