Sure Lube bearing
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36741
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 3:54am
Topic: Sure Lube bearing
Posted By: Cumby
Subject: Sure Lube bearing
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 3:19pm
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My Prestige trailer has Sure Lube bearings on it. I had some work done on the trailer the spring and asked my mechanic to check the bearings too, which he said were fine. He said they lubed them for me so I was surprised when I went to add some grease this weekend and got no old grease out of the front after quite a few pumps of my gun. I called my mechanic back and he said it could be coming out the back and that he would just add a few pumps occasionally and I should be fine. I'm assuming that means the rear seal is bad? Maybe he is thinking the cost of rebuilding vs leave it alone until the bearings need to be replaced? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 3:53pm
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If you're pumping grease in it's got to be going somewhere. Find it. The cost of rebuilding is not high, certainly not worth waiting for a failure. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 3:55pm
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Is the sure lube similar to dexters ez lube? If the seal is leaky, it'll make a real mess of your brake assemblies. I'd take them apart and inspect. Buy new seals and bearings ahead of time just in case- plan on repack jb and new seals at a minimum. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 4:12pm
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I've never re-built them before. Any good videos or resources online on how to do that? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 4:18pm
| Try YouTube? Trailer hubs are pretty simple. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 4:39pm
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To remove inner bearing & seal - Support the hub up on some blocks so the seal can drop out. Use a pc of dowel rod, or similar wood stick, around 3/4 inch cross section. Using the stick & a hammer, lightly tap on the inner bearing , evenly at 120 deg spacings. The seal bearing should drop out. After cleaning & repacking the bearing, put it in & tap in the seal using wood block that spans across it. A seal driver is better, maybe use some pvc pipe to make one. You need to push on the rim of the seal only. The hard part is getting it started square, once you have that then just tap it in flush to hub. Pack grease inside the seal lip before putting hub back on spindle.. Adjust bearing for light preload & then back off to nearest castle slot. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 6:00pm
Chris, I have never done this before, so what you just said sounds like Russian to me, especially your last sentence, LOL. So, does the wheel need to come off to do this and then the outer part of the bearing in order to push out the inner bearing and seal with the rod? How to you adjust the bearing for light pre-load?. ...is the inner bearing and seal one piece that I will need to replace? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 7:47pm
Glen, Maybe you have a friend who's more familiar with the process? It's not hard but the first time it's better to have someone help. If you can't get help, then being honest here, take it to a mechanic. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 8:03pm
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I'm sure I could handle it if I saw it or had someone help me with one. After all, I do come from a long line of engineers 😏 I watched a Youtube video of a guy doing some basic trailer breaks and I think I see what your saying now. I also did get the below instruction from the company that manufactures sure lube bearings. One thing I noticed is that my bearing show the grease fitting accessible with what looks like a rubber cap around it. The ones on the instruction show a rubber dust cap over the grease fitting as well. I'm wondering if I was supposed to remove that outer piece before adding grease? Might have done that wrong and forced it out the inside seal? http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c718.pdf Here is the video I found on a basic trailer. He uses something similar (PVC) to hammer out the inside bearings as described. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 11:36pm
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Glen - If the zerk had a cap on it the grease gun wouldn't pump (would be obvious). A few weeks ago I pulled the hub off of my trailer & found same issue as yours. Brake shoes were packed with grease! Great for corrosion protection but not so good for stopping. I took the bad seal to the neighborhood parts store & they had one in stock. They cross-referenced the number on it. To answer your question about light preload, that means to tighten the bearing adjustment nut until you feel some torque (there is actually a spec for this, I think around 12 ft lbs). That just takes all the play out of the bearings. Anymore, I don't do any auto repairs without 1st watching someone else do it on uTube. Great invention! Good luck. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: July-13-2015 at 11:37pm
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I was gonna do new bearing kits whilst recently refurbing mine, but but after having just re-done bunks, carpet, and some wiring , was glad to leave that part to the pros. Turns out replacing my old rusty stuff with new complete hub assemblies was only $37 per side plus $75 labor.. None of this stuff is terribly expensive, like Pete suggests, maybe just take it in. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 1:21pm
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This is where the grease goes when the seal is bad. It can cause a fire if the brakes are working and are being used a lot on a trip. http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/DSC00453.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/DSC00454.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  This is how they should look http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/DSC00455.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 1:29pm
That's not a leaky seal, Paul... THIS is a leaky seal  
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Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 1:46pm
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Man that's a lot. Surely you were refilling that. I wouldn't think there is that much grease in a single serving. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 2:06pm
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Were you trying to find out how many tubes of grease a drum will hold Good news is I dont think there's any room for water to get in 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 7:17pm
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New-to-me trailer. Brakes were well lubricated.
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 7:37pm
Good Lord, is that the barefoot trailer I dragged 1000 miles?  I guess what you don't know can't hurt you.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 7:44pm
| Don't worry Alan, brake lines and coupler were a mix of dry and clogged... The grease in the assemblies just ensured the whole brake system was bypassed, ha. Everything's been replaced now, came up just short of functional before GL (just need to bleed them). |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 7:52pm
Didn't Zach say he put a "couple shots of grease in them"? LOL |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-15-2015 at 7:55pm
| And I have no reason to doubt that! Ha |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-16-2015 at 11:24am
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shots aka tubes like Paul said. ------------- |