Engine Dies around 1/2 tank of gas - Help Needed
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37032
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 4:30pm
Topic: Engine Dies around 1/2 tank of gas - Help Needed
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Subject: Engine Dies around 1/2 tank of gas - Help Needed
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 8:14am
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Here is my issue - Full tank of gas (1991 Ski Nautique 400 hrs) runs like a champ. When the gas gets to around 1/2 tank all of a sudden it will begins to sputter and then quit. It has happened 4 times now and always when the gas is used down to around 1/2 tank. Here is what I have done so far as troubleshooting - Replaced accelerator pump on carb (Probably not related but it needed it anyway) Replaced water separating fuel filter (Did this after the first time it happened because when I bought the boat a month ago that was with it (Brand new)) Was worth a shot. Checked anti siphon valve on tank - Good Attempted to check fuel feeding tube on tank but it won't come of the tank. It just spins like the thread unit in the tank is not holding. Pulled the tank and took out sending unit and visually inspected the feeding tube (as best I could) and it looked okay. Basic fuel pump test by removing the coil wire and turning the key over. 8 turnovers netted 12 oz of gas. My neighbor mentioned that it could still be the fuel pump and with a full tank of gas there is enough (head pressure?) where the pump doesn't have to work that hard to supply the fuel? - Any thoughts on that? Finally is there a way to (Pressure test?) the fuel pump to see if it is not up to par under load? I know there is a wealth of knowledge on here so I thought I would post before I sent it to a mechanic for diagno$stic testing. $$$ Thanks in advance. Gary |
Replies:
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 8:32am
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I'm sure a pressure test will falsely indicate the pump is failing.. You must get to that dip tube and disssasemble. Besides, I'd the threads don't work, your leaking gas. A better test would be to run it off an outboard tank ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 8:38am
| Thanks GottaSki. Appreciate the advice. I have tried and failed several times to get to the dip tube. I will keep trying. My assumption was some type of fracture or hole in the tube. Thoughts? |
Posted By: hdspringer99
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 9:52am
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Any holes in the tube below the 1/2 tank mark will allow air to be drawn into the fuel line rather than fuel. One way or another, you need to get the tube out. Inspect and replace if necessary. ------------- 77 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 10:52am
| Thanks hdspringer99. I am planning on tackling it again today. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 12:31pm
| Update - I was able to get to the Fuel Pick Up Line it it looks good! Good and bad because now I am stumped again. Could it be the fuel pump? |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 1:16pm
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Did you confirm that the line doesn't have any pin holes or anything like that? Maybe you can add a fuel pressure gauge and see if pressure is dropping when the sputtering begins. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-13-2015 at 3:06pm
| Just had the line checked... No holes... |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 11:36am
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Update - Took the boat out and it did the same thing again around the half way mark. I took a 2 gallon can of gas on the boat for when this happened. I took the fuel line from the fuel filter and stuck it straight in the gas can. Gas Can -> Fuel pump nothing in between. It ran perfect. Tells me pump is fine. The problem seems to be between the tank and the pump. As I see it there are two things between the two. Fuel Filter and Fuel Line. The fuel filter is 2 weeks old. The guys at SkiDim pointed to the fuel line possibly being degraded or otherwise "worn out" from Ethanol or just 24 years of age. Could the fuel line possibly be collapsing somewhere in route to the pump once the fuel reaches a level where gravity is no longer helping? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 12:46pm
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The only thing that I'll throw out there, is a possible fuel tank vent problem? Maybe the halfway mark is the point at which you've built up enough vacuum from a blocked vent, that the fuel pump is no longer able to over come it? An easy check would b to open up the fuel fill cap, and see if that helps. |
Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 1:34pm
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Might want to check the overflow vent at the same time, some kind od bug may have mad a nest in there ------------- |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 1:42pm
| Thanks for all the responses. Fuel Vent Line is clear. I am pulling the main fuel line today to check it and replace it. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 1:53pm
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Replacing the main line wouldn't be a bad idea to start with. Can the dip tube fit inside a 5 gallon gas can? The only one I found here on CCF included a return line for fuel injection. It would be nice if you could run the boat off a fresh line from the filter to the tube inside a gas can, then slowly pick up the tube out of the gas. If it runs OK then sure seems like its the fuel line. If it doesn't, repeat bypassing the filter. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 3:15pm
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Hey Hollywood. - The filter is less than two weeks old, so I haven't been focusing there. I ran the 2nd part of the test last night bypassing the filter going straight into a gas can. Ran like a champ. I replaced the fuel line this morning and will be taking it out for a bit. I will let you know. If it does it again I will include the filter in the test. Thanks for the tips. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 8:39pm
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UPDATE - Still need help I changed the fuel line and took the boat out with less than 1/2 tank of gas... It rine great for an hour or so, then it just died same as before. I read on some other posts folks saying coil overheating issues, but that is past my knowledge.. It doesn't look like I have a normal distributor cap (again way past my knowledge) so I am posting pics of what I have. Any and all help is appreciated. You guys have been great so far. I will post pics soon |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 8:39pm
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I agree with others. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the pump and give that a try. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 8:52pm
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%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.dropbox.com/s/jg4sqr35q48z922/IMG_3391.JPG?dl=0 %20" rel="nofollow - https://www.dropbox.com/s/xjachlc90sc8tuq/IMG_3395.JPG?dl=0 %20" rel="nofollow - https://www.dropbox.com/s/uws6msrq5g8ewew/IMG_3396.JPG?dl=0 |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 8:53pm
  
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Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 9:00pm
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Try again with the photos. Go to the FAQ in the maintenance forum for assistance. How do you know the anti-siphon is OK? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 9:18pm
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Are you starting your voyages with a full tank every time? In other words, have you ever set out with the motor being cold, and only half a tank? |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 9:37pm
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KRoundy - Checked it and it was okay, but replaced it and the pick up tube to be on the safe side. Replaced fuel line too. Bri8g2001 - I did just that today. Between 1/2 and 1/4 tank cold. Ran awesome for about an hour and a half then quit. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 9:51pm
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ProTec! Oh no. You don't have "a" coil. You have 4 and they all suck. Get a timing light. You've most likely had ignition issue all along. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 10:18pm
Now that it doesn't seem to be fuel tank related, Kevin sure nailed the best potential issue below!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Bri892001 wrote:Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 11:28pm
| Hollywood. Thanks for the info. What exactly is a 4 versus a coil (high level explanation is fine) and what am I looking for with the Timing Light. Also, am I at the point to take it to a professional or can someone with decent mechanic skills (my neighbor is pretty good) help me out? Thanks a ton! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2015 at 11:46pm
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Gary, With a failing Protec, you have one choice and that's convert to a distributor. There's a couple links to great threads on the process in the FAQ thread. Do confirm the problem as Kevin suggests with the timing light. The "4" comment and not an "a", is referring to 4 times the problem. IE: 4 coils in a system notorious for failure versus 1 standard coil. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-15-2015 at 12:07pm
I believe they are just suggesting you use it to look for spark when you're experiencing the failure. Not to actually check timing. Another option, better for your purpose in my opinion, and also easier for someone new to this stuff to use and understand would be an inline spark tester. https://store.snapon.com/Spark-Plug-Tools-Tester-Spark-In-Line-P641969.aspx" rel="nofollow - https://store.snapon.com/Spark-Plug-Tools-Tester-Spark-In-Line-P641969.aspx |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-15-2015 at 1:56pm
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Your Pro Tec system is most likely failing. Time to go get a DUI. This is in the FAQ, but here's a direct link for you: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34338&title=protec-ignition-swap" rel="nofollow - DUI Installation Instructions ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-15-2015 at 2:01pm
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You can also replace your system with a standard cap/rotor with a separate ignition coil. The DUI system is a neat integrated solution that has good performance. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 2:08am
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Everyone-- thanks for the info and all of the tips and advice. I will be replacing the Pro Tec with either a DUI or standard set up. I am going to check on both options and price/benefit ratio. You guys are awesome!! If anyone is in NC and could help that would be awesome. I think setting Timing is a bit out of my league considering the importance of it being right. |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 3:08am
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My recommendation is for the DUI unit. Simple and clean. No external coil needed. ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:54am
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Didn't take long to decide. Going with the DUI - DUI New WIres New Plugs WIll I need any other parts for the project? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:19am
Typically when guys do the Protec --> DUI conversion, they reuse the parts of the Protec engine harness and do some precise cutting and splicing to make that work with the new setup. The full, traditional distributor, retrofit kit does have one nice aspect to it, and that's a new engine wiring harness. Skidim does sell a stand alone engine harness that would work well for your needs and hopefully save you some time,: http://www.skidim.com/mobile/WIRE-HARNESS-ELEC-IGN-FORD/productinfo/R121025A/" rel="nofollow - http://www.skidim.com/mobile/WIRE-HARNESS-ELEC-IGN-FORD/productinfo/R121025A/ |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 3:01pm
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DUI Part Number for the HEI distributor: M35820RD (The "RD" is for a red cap. If you want black, then substitute the RD for BK) The DUI Part Number for the Live Wires: DUI-C9059RD (you may need to verify that these "over-the-valve -covers will work around marine exhaust manifolds). If you have the PLD engine, recommended Spark Plugs are Autolite 24. If you have the PLP engine, then use Autolite 764. (You should be able to increase the plug gap with the High Energy Ignition on the DUI unit). ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 6:40pm
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I'd recommend that while you are installing the DUI, and adding new plug wires you put in a fresh set of plugs. Be sure to gap them per the DUI instructions. You will need a timing light to do the job. You can buy one or borrow one. If you lived closer to Washington I'd come help you. I found the DUI job to be a lot of fun and relatively easy to do. Follow the instructions in that link precisely and you'll have no problems. I actually printed them out and had them right there by my side. It takes some time to get your DUI. I think it took about two weeks for my order to arrive. At the time they were backed up and they build and test every unit. It is high-quality stuff. My engine fires and runs with some real gusto now. I think you'll find this to be a good choice. At the end of the job be sure post a photo and add your name to the list of guys who have done the DUI swap in the DUI instruction thread. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 6:53pm
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DUI Was out of stock for 4-6 weeks on lefty distributors when I did mine. Summit had a few in stock and got it in 2 days but had to settle for blue cap.... Kinda like the blue cap. Swapping to the DUI was so easy, any Hillary Clinton can do it. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 7:45pm
| If in stock I will not worry about the color. Tried to take the boat out again today (I know it is a roll of the dice) and it died again after a bit. Odering DUI tommorrow. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 7:45pm
| KROUNDY - Will do!! |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 7:46pm
| Does anyone know if the wiring harness on skidim makes it "plug and play"? |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:09pm
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Bri8g2001 - Does that harness allow me to skip cutting any wires when installing the DUI? Any tips on that would be appreciated. Thanks. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:27pm
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The DUI doesn't use a wire harness. It only requires a hot and a neutral. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:56pm
| Thanks Orlando 76... |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 9:13pm
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While you're waiting for your parts to arrive, I'd go check the wiring harness at the coil pack and trigger plug at the current dizzy. Read the wiring portion of the instructions and confirm your hot, signal, and ground wires. If you have questions, post pics. That will help us help you. I would get some dielectric grease for your new wires. If you need to make your own, don't worry, it's way simple. Maybe pick up some wire organizers too. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 9:23pm
JPASS - Sounds great. I think I am going to order the live wires with the DUI. I do have one question as to the timing. With the DUI it is my understanding that I want to set the timing at 700 RPM on the DUI and that should do it. Please take a look at this pic and help me understand what that should be and where I initially set it before I crank that motor. Super newby to the timing stuff so I am asking a ton of questions.. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 9:24pm
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JPASS - FYI I printed out your instructions and have been reading up on the process. Thanks for posting. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 9:25pm
| Johnny Quest - Thanks for the part info. Calling in the morning. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 9:33pm
Timing should be 12 degrees at idle and about 34 degrees at 3K RPM. You may have to make some slight adjustments, but that should get you close. Notice the position of the cap in the pics in the install thread. If you're at TDC on cylinder one and install the new DUI, yours should be similarly positioned like the ones in the thread. If it's way off, you may want to double check things. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 9:56pm
| Johnny Quest - Thanks for the part info. Calling in the morning. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 10:00pm
| JPASS - So with no distributor I would have it sitting on TDC for number 1. It should look similar to the pics. Got it. After that then install the DUI and advance or retard to get it to 12 degrees BTDC at idle and it should also be 34 degrees BTDC at 3k RPM. When that is achieved tighten up recheck and if all is good I am set? |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:14pm
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I would be cautious with total advance of more than 32 degrees at 3,000 RPMs. More than that could produce some detonation (pinging). You could also increase the octane rating if you want to run a little more advance. My High Output is set at 10 degrees at idle and right at 32 degrees at 3,000 RPMs. Very strong. I love the advance curve on the DUI. JPass has had good luck with his at 12 degrees and 34 degrees, so you could try both and see how the engine runs. JPass did a very nice write-up on the DUI installation. Great place to start. Print up a few pictures and take 'em out to the boat with you. And, NO, the harness on skidim is not designed for the DUI /HEI unit, but rather for an external coil & distributor unit (like the Mallory). JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:16pm
| Thanks Johnny quest. Appreciate all of the help.!!! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:10am
Everyone is correct (including me). Yes, that wiring harness would allow you to skip cutting wires. Yes, the DUI only requires a hot and a neutral. But, you still need: *to get a positive (red) feed to the dash *a switched (purple) feed from the dash (key) to the ignition *ground (black) to the dash *distributor signal (grey?) to the tachometer *oil pressure sender signal to the dash *water temp sender signal to the dash *alternator output to the battery *ignition voltage to the alternator for the exciter line if you have such an alternator *trouble light alarm signal to the dash (works of oil and temp switches) Did I miss anything? I'm not sure, there's a lot of wires Yes, correct, this harness is not specifically for the DUI. It is closer to the correct one for an electronic distributor and coil (non ballasted) setup. But, it provides an ignition source for the dizzy, and takes care of all the functions I mentioned above. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 3:00pm
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It's a simple 3 wire hook up. No other wiring changes needed to keep all the functionality you mention above. If it were my money, I'd skip the wiring harness. The wiring portion of the swap is pretty simple and straight forward. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 4:17pm
Thanks JPASS |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 4:51pm
Hmmmm...When I swapped out my ProTech AND my Throttle-body Fuel injection, I yanked everything off that had to do with ProTech and the TBI. I took all the ProTech wiring and associated breakers off. Gone. I did keep the sensors in place -- just removed the wiring. As I recall, there was no need to re-wire a bunch of systems that were related to the ProTech. Here is what I did: - positive (red) feed to the dash - This comes in from the main wire harness into the 50 amp breaker and starter switch / solenoid - ground (black) to the dash - This comes in from the main wire harness and I ran a new wire to the block and joined to the existing ground wires. - distributor signal (grey?) to the tachometer - This comes in from the main wire harness and I ran a new wire to the DUI tach terminal. You are correct, it is a gray wire. - oil pressure sender signal to the dash - Is not affected by the ProTech wiring harness and connects directly to the main wire harness. (Oil Pressure sensor for ProTech was left in place, but wire was disconnected) - water temp sender signal to the dash - Is not affected by the ProTech wiring harness and connects directly to the main wire harness. (Water temperature sensor for ProTech was left in place, but wire was disconnected) - alternator output to the battery - Is not affected by the ProTech wiring harness and connects through the 50 amp breaker and then to the main wire harness. - ignition voltage connects to the main wire harness. - trouble light alarm signal to the dash (works of oil and temp switches) - This alarm no longer functions. CC even put the unused positive and negative wires for the electric choke in the wire bundle. All I had to do has hook 'em up. The DUI positive input is wired directly to the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid / switch. I used 12 gauge wire with an in-line fuse. I've slept since then, so some of the details are a little fuzzy... I can double-check when I get back to the garage. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 5:56pm
I'll concede that it's basically owners choice with how you want to do the wiring. I guess it's basically time saved, vs. money saved. Clearly the harness is not mandatory. I still hold that the harness would save some time, and also give you brand new wiring and connections. If the factory wiring is still un corroded and in good shape, the advantage of the harness would be dimished somewhat. There is however one question about the description posted above. How can the "i" post on the starter solenoid be used as the positive source for the distributor? To my understanding, every post on the solenoid is either energized constantly, or energized only during cranking. There is no post that is energized by the key being turned to "on." 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 6:07pm
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It can't. I wouldn't bother with a new harness unless you need a new harness. The protec has extra sensors/switches but will not harm anything to leave them be. Neither harness will give you the exact wire/connector needed for the DUI. It is easy to add/modify in either case. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 7:33pm
| Swapping to the DUI is a good idea but if you want to try something while your waiting for parts. Locate the 12.5 amp breaker on the aft of the engine near the coil pack. Turn on the key and measure the voltage. It should be close to battery voltage, 12-14Vdc. If it's lower than say about 10Vdc it may be that the Protec unit is not getting sufficient operating voltage and intermittently going into limp mode. I had this problem a long time ago and was able to fix it with some wiring changes. My Protec is still working at 1500hours |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 7:46pm
Thanks. I will check that out this evening. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 7:51pm
| Also, JQ is correct the "I" terminal is 12Vdc key switched on the Protec motors. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-23-2015 at 7:43pm
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Update - Switched the PORTEC out today and hooked up (I helped someone who actually knew what they were doing) the PCM RETRO KIT. After much advice and several discussions regarding cutting wires, timing, timing curve and a lot more stuff I know nothing about I made the choice to to with that unit. Mainly because it is OEM, I can get support if I need it and it is a "known entity" That being said thanks for all for advice and problem solving you guys provided. This is an awesome community. Now the good part - Boat Ran Like a CHAMP!!! It hasn't run this good since I bought it. I just didn't realize how bad it was running. It sounds like a sewing machine under there now. Starts up quick, temp stays good (Used to say it was running hot - PROTEC?) IT screams out of the hole and the acceleration is awesome. The install was pretty painless - Note: The person who helped me also builds drag cars for a hobbie. Start to finish was less than three hours and it took about 15 seconds to set the timing and we were done. Issues - The only issue we had was the cover (Where PROTEC used to be - covers ballister, 50 amp etc...) didn't want to go over the wires and fuses and stuff. Slight mod and good to go. I can post some pics but they are pretty uneventful. Looks like a normal engine.. Thanks for all the help guys!!!!! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-24-2015 at 12:27am
Awesome you got it all set up and running good 
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-24-2015 at 3:04am
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Well done. You'll continue to be amazed at how well the 351W HO runs on "old school" systems. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |