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Rough idle/smoke but good top end

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37079
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 4:28pm


Topic: Rough idle/smoke but good top end
Posted By: SteveHookEm
Subject: Rough idle/smoke but good top end
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 7:16pm
My 1995 GT40 EFI runs rough at idle and in gear with the tach fluctuating between almost stalling up to about 900 RPM with noticeable smoke and exhaust smell. Never actually stalled and accelerating to higher speeds is smooth and acts normal. The boat has good top end as far as I can tell. (Of course this is only our third time out with her since purchase and my last boat was carb model from years ago)

Also, when we went out this Saturday I had about a dixie cup full amount of reddish oil sitting around the drain hole. Didn't notice if any more than that had drained through the hole. This was pooled around the drain. Should I worry about this?

What is going on here?

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Replies:
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:53pm
Can't speak for the other issues but a dixie cup or more of transmission fluid is not good. Suggest for starters, at the very least, you add fluid to the proper mark and check level frequently next time out to see how quickly it is leaking and from where.

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:04pm
Here's a photo from this evening. There was nothing in there as of yesterday evening. Now this today. I see no visible leaks. And this doesn't appear to be running down the well toward the drain hole. There's nothing behind this puddle toward the stern.

I do notice that a screw is laying in there too. Didn't notice that before.



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Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:07pm
Unfortunately, I'm no mechanic. I wish this was something I could diagnose and fix myself but I can't. So I will rely on a pro.

Any recommended GT40 repair shops in Houston other than going to Conroe to the dealer? I'm on the far west side of Houston. I'll go to Conroe if that is the best place to be.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:15pm
Steve,
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37078&title=best-houston-inboard-service" rel="nofollow - Didn't you ask the same question about someone to work on your boat in this post? At least we now know what work you want done!

Take a good look at the trans. Input will be hidden but the oil will come out the bell housing. Output shaft is obvious. Then there's the hoses to the cooler. I suspect it's coming from the input shaft. How many hours are on the trans?

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54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:23pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Steve,
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37078&title=best-houston-inboard-service" rel="nofollow - Didn't you ask the same question about someone to work on your boat in this post? At least we now know what work you want done!

Take a good look at the trans. Input will be hidden but the oil will come out the bell housing. Output shaft is obvious. Then there's the hoses to the cooler. I suspect it's coming from the input shaft. How many hours are on the trans?


I posted the question in that thread too because I was asked what type of work I wanted. I thought I should keep the two issues separate. I'm looking for a mechanic that is trusted AND I am concerned about an issue.

Any approximation as to how much a leak from the input shaft will be to repair? We paid a little more for this boat because of the obvious care it was given. I drove the boat and had a mechanic look at it before purchase. I doubt that this just happen to come up after owning the boat for a month and running it three times.

The total time on the boat is 410 hours. I don't believe the transmission has even been overhauled.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:37pm
$750.00 for a rebuild the last time I remember. That doesn't include the R&R. It' also doesn't include a new damper plate.

410 is low on the hours. Run it, put a diaper in the bilge and keep an eye on the trans level.

You don't want to say anything about the the other issue?

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54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 12:01am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

$750.00 for a rebuild the last time I remember. That doesn't include the R&R. It' also doesn't include a new damper plate.

410 is low on the hours. Run it, put a diaper in the bilge and keep an eye on the trans level.

You don't want to say anything about the the other issue?


Yes, I was originally more concerned with the rough idle/smoke issue. Now this leak has taken over and has me thinking I may have purchased a boat with issues. I've put more into it already than I planned. If it is something major, I will be crushed.

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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 12:54am
Originally posted by SteveHookEm SteveHookEm wrote:


Now this leak has taken over and has me thinking I may have purchased a boat with issues. I've put more into it already than I planned. If it is something major, I will be crushed.


Oh brother I feel your pain, win some lose some with boats. That's a fairly significant leak. best I can satisfy take a sheet of paper towels rolled out underneath the engine to narrow the leak. I suspect it's coming from the hellhousing/input shaft.

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1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:23am
Wish Eric was still around. Being a PCM trans I wonder if they work differently than a Borg Warner meaning if there is pressure or not behind that seal? If it was mine since it's a DD,I'd find where it is leaking,pull it and put in a seal and see what happens. But since you have to pay you don't have that option. Good luck.

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95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 6:10pm
Just left her at the Nautique dealer here. I contacted several other shops about inboard work and none wanted to work on a PCM engine. So off to the dealer she went.

As I drove away looking in the rear view mirror, I couldn't help noticing how much the older hulls look like sleek bathing beauties next to the bloated, giant hulls of today. I'll take mine thank you!

I feel like I just left a child at the doctor's office! Haha

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Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-19-2015 at 8:16pm
Addressing the rough/variable idle I have found some topics on other forums that seem to address this issue. I've found three possible causes:
1) Throttle Position Sensor
2) Perfect Pass not set correctly
3) Fuel Pressure Regulator is bad or needs to be "squeezed" some to increase pressure.

Are these possible causes legit for what I am experiencing on my 1995 GT40? I only have 410 hours. The Fuel Pressure regulator fix seems to be for much higher time engines.

My boat is at the dealer. I would like to have some possible suggestions if necessary. Am I on the right track?

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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 10:54am
Have you read the GT-4o diagnostic manual?


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 11:32am
Seems likely it's got one or more injectors dripping at idle making it rich - don't do the dealers work for them though - things like the fuel pressure regulator are definitively checked with relatively simple tests using gages they should definitely have.

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Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 12:05pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Have you read the GT-4o diagnostic manual?

I have looked at it. A tough read for a non mechanic. However, I was at least able to find the items on the diagram that I'm thinking are at issue


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Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 12:06pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Seems likely it's got one or more injectors dripping at idle making it rich - don't do the dealers work for them though - things like the fuel pressure regulator are definitively checked with relatively simple tests using gages they should definitely have.


Exactly! It's at the dealer. They'll get her back to spec! It's what they do

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Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 4:55pm
I just got my estimate from the dealer. They say I have a leak from the input shaft as expected. I've attached their estimate: $903! I can't believe it would be that high!

They didn't even address the rough idle/lagging then surging. They also are putting in $140 for "remove starter for diagnosis". I didn't say anything was wrong with it! The starter seemed to be fine!


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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 5:07pm
yeah well they are a business, don't think you'll get support here in your favor

job title "diagnose leak- reddish fluid near drain plug"

looks like they did what they were supposed to do...


Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

yeah well they are a business, don't think you'll get support here in your favor

job title "diagnose leak- reddish fluid near drain plug"

looks like they did what they were supposed to do...



+1
You take it to the dealer because in your words "They'll get her back to spec. It's what they do".
Then complain about the cost. You expecting them to do it for free?


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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



Eddie


Posted By: SteveHookEm
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 5:26pm
Don't be so touchy. I just want to make sure this is an accurate quote. I have no issue with the dealer or paying for service. That IS why I went there.

Also, $140 for the starter diagnosis is something I didn't request. But still not complaining if they feel it's correct.

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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 5:33pm
Sounds like you are complaining.

Doesn't the starter need to be pulled to align the damper upon trans reinstall?

None of us know your boat, we couldn't comment on what else is or isn't necessary to get it "running right".


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-26-2015 at 5:40pm
So “remove starter for diagnosis” you should read as labor required to remove the starter so they could look at the front of the transmission and diagnose the leak. Not how I would get a look at a front shaft seal but probably the easiest way if they had a camera to shove in there. So I am going to say that is what you asked them to do.

That being said The rest of the quote looks ok to me in terms of hours required to change the front seal on a transmission except for the 1.5 hours to rr the shaft and rr the prop. Did you ask them to do that? Are you getting a new prop or shaft?   I wouldn’t remove either for that job without a good reason, if I was going to remove either I would likely replace the strut bearing but I don’t see that quoted.

Overall It’s a cheap and easy fix, but it takes time if you value your time more than their then you have to pay them for their time. If not find 8 hours and save yourself 8 or 9 hundred dollars.   Or put new fluid in it every few days...


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1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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