Electrical problem on '81 ski nautique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37387
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 2:17pm
Topic: Electrical problem on '81 ski nautique
Posted By: hughman
Subject: Electrical problem on '81 ski nautique
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 3:01pm
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Was wondering if I could get some advice? Last time I had the boat out, it was running great. Have had no problems for quite a few years. Then, it started just quitting, like the electrical system was shorting out, but did not stop running, just sputter on and off. It would just quit running, the gages would stop, but then come right back on. Then it got worse and worse. When I turned the key to start it, sometimes it would start, then shut down again. When I turned the key, the gauges went on and off. I thought it was the ignition switch, so replaced that this last weekend. At first, it started right up and ran, then after a minute or so, started doing it again. With the boat places booked for winterizing for a while, having a hard time getting someone to look at it. And I need to get it running so I can also winterize. From the last post, could it be the coil? I am not very knowledgeable on voltages and amps and stuff, just enough to shock the crap out myself. Seems like I replaced the coil from SkiDim not too long ago. Thanks for any help! |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 4:07pm
| It doesn't need to run to winterize. You'll need a volt meter to start. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 4:23pm
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Hugh, You are going to get a shock off 12 volts. Start by checking all your connections including your battery cables. What made you think it was the ignition switch? Why did you put a coil in it? Don't start throwing parts at it without testing first. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 5:10pm
| Ok, I will check the connections.out. Visually, they look fine. Should I take off and clean all the connections? And sounds like I will need a volt-meter. I have my routine for winterizing, and it always starts right up in the spring. So I would fell better doing it while it is running and not have it bother me all winter. I had put a coil in it a few years ago when I got rid of the points. I thought it was the switch where you insert the key, since sometimes when you turn the key= nothing. Then keep turning the key on and off and the gauges jump to life, then die again like there is no juice going to them. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 5:57pm
I highly susspect the EI conversion to be the problem with the poor running engine. Why did you put it in??? Put the point set back in!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
hughman wrote:Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 6:10pm
| The electronic ignition was installed in 2005. I do not have the points. Maybe I should check under the distributor for a loose connection? |
Posted By: illiniball2000
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 10:06pm
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Pete/Hollywood. Would his gauge as quit if the EI is the problem? Don't know if the fuse set up is similar to my 67? I could wiggle the wire going to one side of the fuse box and my gauges ignition would fail. Then move it back and it would be good. Ended up replacing fuse plate and an inline fuse for the ignition. Not saying it is his problem. Just asking the question more so I can learn. I know that checking with volt meter from ignition to cool will answer a lot of questions as well. Thanks ------------- Beer is my friend 87 Dominique Had 67 Starflite |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 10:19pm
The gauge problem is why I suggested checking all the wiring connections. This is where a VOM (volt Ohm meter) would be best to have. Wigling wires isn't the best test procedure!  However, I still suspect the EI conversion. I'd also recommend checking to see if the EI and the coil combination needs a ballast resistor or not. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-21-2015 at 11:51pm
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Check out the Ignition circuit breaker too. The voltmeter would be handy for that. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 12:46am
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Brian, I'm not familiar enough with the 60s boats to even know if that fuse of yours is original. I suspect not. Hard to know what's been added/subtracted/monkeyed with on these old boats. OP needs to study up on basic boat wiring, get a VOM and start tracing voltages. |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 11:24am
Great leads, thanks so much. Did not get a chance to work on it last night, forgot about daughter's volleyball games. The fuse/circuit breaker concept does seem like it may be the problem the way it keeps "shorting" out. I have no idea where the fuses are located on my baby. Do not see anything under the dash or near the engine. Plus, I messed up my back changing the ignition key switch, so that does not help. 
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Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 3:13pm
Another question: What is the red button marked "40" in the hopefully attached photo? Is this the circuit breaker? That would be awesome if a simple button push would solve my problem, but I have been afraid to push it, thinking it might be the self destruct button....
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 4:17pm
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The red button is the main circuit breaker but, it will not reset by itself. You state that the engine and gauges wold come back on so something else is happening. Get that VOM and do some testing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 4:23pm
| Is there a spot to look for these fuses that have been mentioned? If I were to push the "red button", will it reset the breaker? I suspect it has never been pushed in 34 years.. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 4:50pm
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Small fusing or breakers will be at the helm. Did you check the main breaker with the VOM to confirm it's tripped? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 5:30pm
| "At the helm"? So you mean near the steering wheel? Under the dash somewhere? I apologize for my ignorance. I have not checked with a meter yet. Thanks- |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 7:16pm
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A partially broken wire that is intermittently losing contact or a bad/rusted ground is my vote. In that case, wire wiggling may in fact work.....lol But you should have a voltmetre anyway.....they are cheap. Here is a link to the wiring diagram for your boat http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/13886/PCM_Engine_Owners_Manual_pg22_Engine_Wiring_Diagram.gif" rel="nofollow - wiring diagram ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 7:27pm
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Hugh, I've seen some pretty bad connections on the .250 sta-con quick disconnects. They were frequently used for connections on gauges, circuit breakers and fuses. Take a look on the back side of your helm (dash). I've even seen them split open since the bronze used gets brittle over time. Yes, "helm" is a general term for anything related to needed items for controlling a boat. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 8:20pm
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Hugh - If you could post a picture of you dash, maybe we can help you more. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 10:33pm
| Thanks so much. I pushed the "red button". It pushed in and stayed pushed in. I thought that meant it had been pushed out through a short, and was all set. Started it up, and it ran an even shorter time before it started shorting out. Bought a volt meter, read the instructions, and was dumbfounded how to use it. Looked under the dash, saw no fuses. I will go out and take a pic of the dash and post tomorrow. Thinking it is above my comfort zone. Thanks for all the help! Will do some wiggling tomorrow. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-22-2015 at 11:18pm
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One thing to keep in mind, when you are dealing with the key switch, you are dealing will all positive side voltage. -Switch your voltmeter to 12 volts DC, -Put the black wire in the ground side on the meter, and -Put the red wire in the positive side on the meter. Use the red hole one designated for 12 volt dc testing, sometimes they go in different places depending on what you're testing. -This is where either alligator clip test leads, or a helper come in handy. (Also, why I prefer a test light for quick and dirty basic testing, they come with an alligator clip.) You want to solidly attach, or have the helper firmly probe the negative terminal on the battery, or other known good ground with the black probe and hold it. -Now, use your red wire to basically poke around the key switch. The wires going in, and the wires coming out. You can't hurt anything, unless you actually puncture a gauge with the sharp probe -One of the posts should always show voltage, whether the key is off or on. This is the battery input post -One of the posts should consistently show voltage with the key on, and none with the key off. This is your ignition post. -One of the posts should show voltage only when the key is turned to the start. -Now, back to the always live post. See if you can hold the red probe there, and start giggling your suspect connections. If the voltage reading waivers, you are getting close to finding a problem. |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 10:25am
 Here is the dash picture I promised. Thanks so much for the troubleshooting advice. Now I just have to count down the hours until I can get home and play with my baby again. Are there any comments on the circuit breaker button? Should it have been pushed out like that? Does that indicate there was a problem there? Did I do the right thing pushing it in? Wish I had checked it again after it was still having the problem. Hurry up, 5 pm ! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 10:34am
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Hugh, Something tripped the main breaker. Are any of the fuses at the helm blown? Yes, the tripped breaker does indicate a problem since they don't trip by themselves. Now, the issue will be to find out what did trip it. What condition is your battery in? The main breaker typically is between the alternator and the battery. Has anyone done any changes to the wiring? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 11:04am
| Thanks, that is what I was thinking about the breaker, but was not sure. I have not found any fuses at the helm. Would they be in-line fuses? Or a "fuse board"? Not sure what I am looking for, sorry. The battery is less than 2 years old, and I keep it charged up periodically throughout the winter, I assume it is good. As far as the wiring, I am not aware of any changes, especially within the last 7 years. As a gift, I was given the radios, and the fish/depth finder 8-9 years ago. I had them installed by a "boat guy". I actually never use the radios, but a safety thing if I plan on going out on Lake Michigan, Huron, or Erie, which the boat has been on all 3. I use the depth finder to find fishing spots on lakes I an unfamiliar with, and to help keep from hitting the bottom. And yes, there is lots of skiing.... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 11:15am
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I guess I would tend to be somewhat suspicious of the add on electrical accessories. Especially since the basic dash wiring of these boats tends to be just robust enough to do what it has to do. Not much room for anything extra. Of course, if this problem is just turning up now, after 7-8 years, I guess those things are less suspicious. Now, do those accessories rely on the key switch in order to be able to turn on? |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 11:25am
| I only use the Garmin depth/fish finder, and the way it is wired, I have to remember to turn it off when I turn the boat off. Have not used the radios in so long, I do not remember if they are the same. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 11:50am
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Hugh, Have your battery load tested at the auto supply. Hopefully it isn't a deep cycle! It also would be a good idea to have the alternator and regulator tested. It looks like your fusing is in the dash to the left of the helm wheel. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 11:58am
| Ok, I feel very stupid. Why couldn't I see that? Guess it was just too obvious. Now I REALLY am waiting for 5 o'clock to hurry up! Thanks so much! Fingers are crossed I am closer to a solution with all your help--this site is awesome! |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 2:24pm
| is boat set up with volt meter or Amp Meter? |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 3:00pm
| Yes. Off the top of my head, not sure which, but there is an electrical gauge on the dash.. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 3:03pm
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Hugh - I am not familiar with the '81 dash but from your picture it looks like there are fuses just to the left of the helm (round caps). One of them is specifically for the ignition circuit & I would focus on the wires coming to & from that one. Your fuse could be corroded or the contact inside the holder for that matter. If you can't make heads or tails of it, then this may be a case where a boat mechanic would be money well spent. You don't want to be out on a great lake with a marginal electrical system. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 3:33pm
I agree.. Get that VOM to work!!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 3:42pm
| if its an amp meter then ck connections. i believe everything runs through it. |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 3:43pm
| Thanks! When you pointed out where the fuses were, it was a literal head-slapping moment. If that is (hopefully) the problem, it will be hard to be honest about it with my daughter, I might get some additional (deserved) head slaps from her. She wanted to ski that day very badly when this problem developed.... She is real good at pathetically trying to row the boat towards where we put the boat in, and when the boys see her, it is easy to get a tow back! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-23-2015 at 3:54pm
By 81, I'm 99% sure CC had gone to volt meters. Besides, there's not much that will go wrong with an Amp meter. It's simply has a heavy conductor from terminal to terminal with a current transformer wrapped around it. When they fail, it will stop reading the amps but will still carry the current through it. If you have an old one around, take it apart and see what's inside. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 4:59am
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On my 78, every single contact and wire clip behind the dash was a nice shade of green..... Took a while to clean them up and put some electric grease on them....I gained some ignition circuit voltage by doing so. ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 12:45pm
| Ok, I checked the fuses, they were fine. Went back to the beginning with all the suggestions I had gotten on here, starting at the beginning. with all the electrical connections. So I rechecked the clamps on the battery terminals, they were tight. But this time I noticed the connection of the wire to the clamp was loose.on the positive terminal. So I took them all off, wire brushed all of it and reassembled. Now when I turn the key, the gauges come on an stay on. So that was my problem. I will now slink away with my tail between my legs. Thanks for all your help, everyone! |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 12:51pm
pics |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 12:53pm
Kevin, Didn't you just get married? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 12:58pm
| irrelevant, and no |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 1:10pm
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sorry, my 83 has amp meter set up. Could have been upgrade. volt meter set up is way cheaper. im keeping it as an amp meter as well. |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 1:11pm
| She is one of those 14 year old's that looks much, much older. No pics, sorry-- |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 1:22pm
I'll have Siri remind me to recheck this thread in 4 years That's battery connection is a relatively odd one, so no need to feel bad you didn't think of it first. Just good you found it and fixed it 
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Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 1:34pm
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God help me get through those years..... Thanks for not shaming me, you can make fun of me elsewhere....
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 1:36pm
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I'll set a reminder to have Brian remind me in 4 years. Electrical connections rarely "look" bad. You really gotta get in there closer. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 2:42pm
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Hugh, It would be a good idea to consider a new set of battery cables. The bolt on "repair" cable connections are't good at their best. If you do get a set, go with a heavier gauge cable. Also, whenever you connect a cable to a battery, always use a brush type terminal cleaner on both the battery stud and the cable connector. Then some dielectric grease will ensure a longer good connection. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 3:00pm
There you go suggestion just replacing parts without testing first, lmao!! Agree with PD the clamp style battery terminals are garbage, if the cables all look fine otherwise NAPA has soldier style replacement terminals available with the solder already in them. If you do replace this way just be sure you get the correct + and - terminals as they are different sizes. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: hughman
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 3:04pm
Will do, thanks again! 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2015 at 3:14pm
Chris, Aren't you supposed to be working on some clients project?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |