New Metering Block- not running
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37421
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 2:18pm
Topic: New Metering Block- not running
Posted By: namart2001
Subject: New Metering Block- not running
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 3:43pm
I'm in need of some help with my carb. Started having problems late this summer with the boat not wanting to idle below 1200 rpms, but ran perfectly fine otherwise. I had replaced my secondary fuel bowl in the beginning of the summer (because it was disintegrating--literally could flake chunks of material off of it) so I figured the same thing was happening on the primary side of the carb. Took the primary bowl off, and it looked fine, but the metering block was flaking apart. Here's a pic: I ordered a new metering block from skidim thinking this would be a quick fix, but the boat will absolutely not idle now. It's terribly hard to get started, and then when I could get it to start, I had to have the throttle 3/4 open to get it stay running around 1000-1500 rpms, and it was real rough at that. The old and new metering block have all the same markings, so I'm sure it's the correct part. The only thing I noticed different was the powevalve on the new metering block felt stiffer, but I tried running it with the new powervalve and the old powervalve and noticed zero difference. I also tried numerous adjustments with the idle mixture screws with no noticeable difference. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I mess around with 2 stroke jet skis a lot and this is the first automotive style carb that I've personally messed with, so I'm over my head as it is. |
Replies:
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 4:20pm
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With the metal flaking off, you may need to do a complete carb re-build. There are some very small passageways inside the carb and some fugitive piece of metal flake could easily block off some critical carb system. Also, the float level is critical for these carbs. If the float is allowing too much fuel into the secondary bowl, gasoline will pour into the carb throat and create a very rich mixture causing severe idle problems. Holley Carburetor has some great instructional videos to watch: https://www.holley.com/blog/carburetor_installation_and_tuning/1/" rel="nofollow - Holley Video Link JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: namart2001
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 6:29pm
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Thanks for the link, a lot of good info there. I'll double check the float levels. I did spray carb cleaner through all the main body passageways before I reassembled with the new metering block. Those appeared to be clear. I think I'll probably pull the carb body off the base next, try and spray cleaner through those passages, and go from there. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 6:53pm
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Nate, Don't count on the spray carb cleaner. The good old EPA has restricted the stuff so only back yard hacks can use it!!!! Don't waste you time. Dip the carb. http://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A" rel="nofollow - Berrymans is still available, still pretty good but certainly not like the stuff we used to use. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 9:59pm
| Disagree with Pete, the only time I've dipped the carb, it removed the gold Holley coating. Rendered the carb junk. I've done plenty of rebuilds with the spray, gotta follow it up with compressed air. Gotta confirm each passage is clear before moving on but that is good practice anyways. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 11:28pm
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If the zinc flakes are causing a restriction in the passages, carb cleaner will not dissolve them. Maybe the carb body is disintergrating too. Sounds like time new for a quick fuel carb. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: namart2001
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 11:43pm
So I also thought that might be a possibility, but now I have over $100 in this carb between the secondary bowl, metering block, and the rebuild kit, which bought it in the beginning of the summer when I saw the condition of the secondary bowl. Regarding the dip vs. spray, I'll probably just try spray cleaner first, since it's what I have in my garage. If it appears that passages are still blocked after spraying then I'll order the Berryman. The thing that really has me stumped about this though is that the boat ran perfectly fine (other than not truly idling) with the old metering block, and now barely even runs with new metering block. I suppose it's possible that more flow through the new block dislodged and lodged some material somewhere else in the carb though. I don't know. On a side note, is this a normal for an oldish marine carb? |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-30-2015 at 12:01pm
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From Skidim: "This is a New style metering block that will not fit older Holley 4160 carbs. It no longer has the tube & O-ring and is used on List # 75009-3 and 75009-4." Agree with Snobsessed, it's time for a new carb, no sense throwing good money after bad. |
Posted By: namart2001
Date Posted: September-30-2015 at 12:50pm
Regarding the tube & o-ring, I apparently do not have the original carb on my boat, it has the 75009-3 list #. Actually talked to skidim about this before purchasing. I did pull the new metering block though and inspected it a little bit. Found a couple of the passageways are not perfectly round, like the ones on the old block are. Not sure if that's enough to cause problems..  |
Posted By: namart2001
Date Posted: September-30-2015 at 12:52pm
The other side is not quite as bad.
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-30-2015 at 3:58pm
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Hmmm, the only other thing I can think of. Did the new metering block come totally naked? In other words, did it come with the idle mixture screws, and associated gasket (or whatever the replaceable piece the mixture screw screws into is called) installed? Or not? If not, did you transfer it over correctly from the old one, or use a new one? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-30-2015 at 4:03pm
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Looks like you mentioned the idle screws above... How about the needle in the bowl, can it move freely? Is the plastic baffle thing snapped all the way in and not interfering? |
Posted By: namart2001
Date Posted: September-30-2015 at 6:42pm
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Yea, the idle mixture screws were already installed, but I didn't realize there was a replaceable piece that the screws were installed into. That might be something worth inspecting on the new metering block. The needle in the float bowl does move freely. |