Normal amt of rust at drain plugs?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37574
Printed Date: September-28-2024 at 12:48pm
Topic: Normal amt of rust at drain plugs?
Posted By: Cumby
Subject: Normal amt of rust at drain plugs?
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 8:13pm
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I drained by block today and was really surprised by the amount of rust I got out of it, especially on one side of the exhaust manifold drain. It was really tough to get off and then I had some big chunks of rust and what looked like sediment I fished out after I got it off. Im not sure the PO pulled all the plugs in the past. Im a little concerned about the corrosion I see on the threads, especially the manifold drains. See pics below: I used some CRC Marine solvent to try and clean up the threads and the plugs some but they still look pretty corroded to me. Should I not be so worried about it or does this look like excessive rust. Anything I should be doing to clean and protect the threads on the boat side? Plugs are easy to replace, but what happens if the threads get too corroded on the the block or manifold? The plug on the bottom of the elbow at the water pump came out but its so corroded I couldn't get it back in, even after removing and cleaning the elbow. I ordered a new elbow to replace it with. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Replies:
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 8:25pm
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------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 8:31pm
  ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 9:21pm
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I would chase the threads with a tap, That is what I did with mine. On the exhaust manifolds, you will have to take the riser off to get access for the tap. Might as well remove the whole manifold. Good time to replace the gaskets & repaint them. I cleaned mine out using 'The Works' toilet cleaner, probably could be cited by EPA for all the goo that came out. While he manifolds are off, might as well replace the valve cover gaskets (there is no end to this rationale). ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 11:11pm
The block and the U are 1/4' NPT and the manifolds are 3/4" NPT. They are taper threads so you won't want to cut any deeper just run it in to clean them out.. Then get yourself 2 of these  from http://www.mcmaster.com/#drain-cocks/=zifc3q" rel="nofollow - here part number 4921K2 for the block,that way you can drain it easy with out having to remove plugs. You can clean out the threads on your old U pipe and put in a new plug into it. If you have already ordered you might just want to keep it,that is the only PCM Ford cooling casting thats still available,all others are sold out and sounds like there will never be anymore. And like Chris says the exhausts can be cleaned up,many soak them in muriatic acid for a bit. Don't know how mechanically inclined you are,it can for some be more work removing them than it's worth.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 11:48pm
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Gary, I've never tapped anything before. Is it as simple as picking up a 3/4 inch tap to run it through it? Also, do you still have to remove the stop cocks regularly to clean the threads out...assuming I will still get some rust building up there? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-24-2015 at 11:56pm
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Is http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200628285_200628285?hotline=false" rel="nofollow - this what I need? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 12:11am
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Glen once they are in you just leave them in.The nice thing about the ones I linked you to is that you can leave the threaded base in the block and take out the removeable T part and poke in a wire to clean anything out in the block as you drain it. Pete recommended these to us many years ago,I have them in 2 boats now. Are you just running in fresh water? If you are I would not worry. As to tapping there is a feel to it,in this case these threads are tapered and are a plumbing standard. You don't want to cut new or in this case deeper threads you would just want to run the tap in until you had resistance and clean out the old threads. Try your first one on the U. That link is what you could use but you only need a 1/4NPT and a 3/4NPT ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 2:40pm
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Gary, only fresh water. I will try to pick up some taps and give it a try. I think I read some debate on her about using anti-sieze or something else when you reinstall the plugs. What about teflon tape? Is the rust inside the manifold normal...nothing to worry about? Should I drain them or flush more often? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 2:50pm
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Glen, The corrosion is normal. Uncoated cast iron rusts!  Pick up some of the drains Gary linked. I feel as he is, you'll be very happy with them. The block drains should be 1/4" pipe and the J pipe should be 1/8". The manifolds should be 3/4" so you'll need some bushings. I suggest brass and 3/8" drains so you'll need 3/4" x 3/8" bushings. If you go this route, Teflon tape is a good idea even if you do go with the brass Chase the threads and as Gary mentioned, you will just want to clean them up and not go to much deaper. 1/2 turn once the tap gets tight will do it.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 3:25pm
Sorry Pete, you lost me on the bushings. Are you saying you add them because of the length of the drain pipe? If the bushings are the same size, I don't understand where your putting them? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 5:08pm
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A bushing is used to reduce the 3/4 inch threads down to 3/8. You want 3/8 threads so one of the drain plugs can be used in that 3/4 inch hole in the manifolds. Bushings are available at a good hardware store. I always have a #8 nail with me when I pull my plugs, almost every year at least one plug is blocked with crud or rust. The nail quickly pushes through and opens it up again. I swirl it around in the hole to break up any rust around the opening. Keep something on hand in the boat to divert the water so it does not hit your carpets. The dirty rusty water coming out will stain. Yep, done that with our old boat did not like it. Now I am more careful when draining. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 5:49pm
Gotcha. So you guys use these at all 5 drains, including the J pipe, right? Yeah I was brushing rust chunks up for while to get it off my carpet. Will plan better next time. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 7:56pm
With the ones Pete referred us to you can solder a tube into them to attach a hose to and run it out the drain plug of the boat  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: October-25-2015 at 10:34pm
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Just a few more hoses Gary, and you could make it Winterize itself every time you turned the key off. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-01-2015 at 7:55pm
I tried to clean the threads up on the old J pipe but just couldn't get it to work. Even though I go the tap in and out several times, I couldn't get the drain threads to go in smoothly...like they were hitting something. I finally gave up and just went with the new J pipe. By the way, it is 1/4 inch not 1/8.  As you can see from the picture, there are still plenty of threads exposed. Ive got it in there about as tight as I could get it. Im assuming thats normal? One thing I was wondering about. If this drains aren't pulled out at least once a year like you would a plug, is there more of a chance they might seize up? One of my plugs was stuck in there really good. Im assuming you are still going to get some rust around them and just wondering it they need to be pulled out the the threads cleaned up at some point? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-01-2015 at 8:25pm
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Pipe threads are tapered so what you show is about right. I use anti seize grease on the drain plugs so they don't seize - also they don't need much torque to seal. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-01-2015 at 8:41pm
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Do you ever pull the drains out to clean and add grease? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-01-2015 at 9:19pm
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No,your good to go Glen. Don't worry about it ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-01-2015 at 10:23pm
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The rule of thumb for tapered pipe threads is you want 2 to 3 turns by hand before you need the wrench. When threading pipe, it's common to adjust thread depth since the female threads on purchased fittings have a pretty broad tolerance. . Glen, Gary is correct. You do not need anything on the threads with brass to prevent them from seizing. With the nice drain cocks, you won't need to remove them anyway!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 9:28am
| How do you probe with wire with a drain cock? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 9:55am
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The T part of that valve unscrews Bruce. Think of a needle and seat in a carb. Once the T is unscrewed,it's a straight shot thew the part that is screwed into the block. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 10:42am
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Bruce, Through the years I've mentioned these removable stem drain cocks several times. They are fantastic and I highly recommend them. Here's the product description from McMaster: "Removable handle stop cocks can be disassembled for cleaning." I'm still in shock with that drain kit Skidim sells with the elbows. I'm surprised Vince still has them listed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 10:54am
| Unless you drain often, I don't see the benefit over a plug. Seems like a more complicated mouse trap. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 11:01am
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No tools needed,threads and seal are never disrupted and you can open it up while running to see if pump is pumping and if done a couple of times a year it keeps sediment out. I was surprised how much came out after running at Quinners this year. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 11:14am
So Bruce, you like to get the wrenches and thread compound out every fall and then fumble with getting the plugs back in? What's complicated with using your hand to tighten up a thumb screw? I have to ask, do you have T handle garboard drain plugs or square heads? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 11:29am
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I put the "T" hand valve from Grainger everywhere on mine. But recently I find that I prefer to go ahead and remove it and get as much sediment and rust out as possible. I had to use bushings to make everything fit and the bushings seem to block the sediment. To each his own, I guess. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 12:00pm
I was going to ask if that was safe to do and would help keep it a little cleaner vs draining once a year? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 12:23pm
Clark, What drain cocks did you purchase from Grainger? Were they the removable stem drains? I'd say they weren't since you can't get the sediment out and are the cheap drains commonly used for radiators. Why the bushings? What size did you purchase? The only bushings needed are for the exhaust manifolds. I also have to ask you why Grainger? Their pricing is absolutely horrible and their web site is as well. The search feature doesn't get you were you need to go and I hate having to go through hundreds of listing to find what I need. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 1:06pm
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I have a business account with them. You are correct, their catalog, retail, prices are way up there. It was maybe 8 years ago, so maybe it was not Grainger. But they are nice brass valves and bushings, I also have an account with McMaster & Carr, could have been them. Yes, the bushings were needed on the exhaust manifold. I don't think the block or the water pipe needed a bushing, or to have anything but the "T" removed. I had very slow water flow last year on the manifolds, so I took the bushings off and got lots of sediment out. Clark |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 1:07pm
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Pete, Are these the bushings that you recommend? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-bushings/=zmwtp3" rel="nofollow - McMaster-Carr Bushings Item # 4429k418  3-- http://www.mcmaster.com/#4921K2%20rel=" rel="nofollow - 4921K2 Drain-Handle Brass Stop Cock, Removable Handle, 1/4" NPT Male, Internal Seal $6.85 each 2-- http://www.mcmaster.com/#4921K3%20rel=" rel="nofollow - 4921K3 Drain-Handle Brass Stop Cock, Removable Handle, 3/8" NPT Male, Internal Seal 7.82 each 2-- http://www.mcmaster.com/#4429K418%20rel=" rel="nofollow - 4429K418 Low-Pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/4 Male x 3/8 Female Pipe Size, Hex Reducing Bushing 4.33 each |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 1:13pm
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Hey guys, it's just a drain . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 2:18pm
Clark, Not wanting to steer anyone in the wrong direction could you please clarify what type of drain cocks you used. Were they the removable stem or the cheap cocks used typically on radiators? A picture if possible would be fantastic. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 2:21pm
Yup, those are the parts. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 6:30pm
Jeepers, if I can't handle a drain plug I've got no business working on the engine. The drain plugs are hex heads, except for the FE which has little tiny plugs with square heads. Doesn't sound like a bad system if you use your boat late into the season and you have to drain after each use, but once a season, seems unnecessarily complicated, but some people like to put all kinds of gadgets on their engines.... |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 8:17pm
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The reason quite a few people install the fancy brass drains, is when the threads in the block and manifolds start to erode to the point where the hex plugs are bottoming out. The fumbling is about the same with each. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 8:43pm
Al, Thanks for bringing that up. I forgot the corrosion of the tapped holes when I was working Bruce over about wrenches, pipe compound and of course the fumbling! I have to disagree with you on the fumbling being about the same. I'm sure you've tried to thread a fitting into a tapped hole that's on an uneven surface like a block before. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: November-02-2015 at 11:44pm
| Someone asked earlier in this thread why the new fitting rides higher than the old fitting in the block. The Tapered pipe thread fittings like those used in the stock block plugs seal on the points of the threads. As these are used time and again the points flatten down and the plug tightens deeper in the block. Eventually a new plug is needed and the new plug will ride high in the hole like the one pictured early in this thread because it has new fresh threads and the points are not flattened down yet. If you have one leaking after you tighten it buy a new plug or use Teflon tape as a band aid till you get a new plug. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-03-2015 at 12:07am
Mark, I think you had better read up on taper pipe thread tolerances!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-03-2015 at 8:04am
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Mark, Just in case you didn't find the information, here's an sentence explaining the gaps at the major and minor diameters of a NPT thread that you refer to as the "points ot the threads" From the Engineers Toolbox: "With NPT threads, after a wrench is applied, slight spaces at the major and minor diameters exist that would allow the assembly to leak and therefore a sealing compound is used to fill any gaps." ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: November-03-2015 at 2:57pm
| So after just pulling the plugs and sticking a screwdriver in the holes at the end of each season for the last 23 years now I have to add drain cocks, bushings, hoses and use teflon tape. I should stop reading threads like these. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-03-2015 at 3:11pm
You may want to consider it. After me winterizing for 50 years, I sure appreciate the convenience!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-16-2015 at 11:51am
Pete, does https://www.ferguson.com/product/-brass-reducing-bushing-ibrlfbd/_/A-ProdFamily-82357" rel="nofollow - this look like what I need? Looked at some hardware stores this weekend but no luck. Probably just order some. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2015 at 12:17pm
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Glen, Yes, those are brass reducing bushings. Have you ordered the removable stem stop cocks yet? If not, you can order the bushings (link at top of page) at the same time from McMaster. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-16-2015 at 12:24pm
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Yeah, I already have them but Ill check their prices too. Thanks. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 4:17pm
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OK guys. I tried to install the drains yesterday and ran into a few problems. On the exhaust drain, it sticks out so far with the bushing on it that I couldn't get even close to screwing it in because of the exhaust slopping down right behind it. Even if I can get it in, I don't see how I could turn the handle to open the drain? Been trying to upload a pic but having issues. Ill see if I can do it straight from my phone. In the 1/4 block drains, I couldn't get the threads to catch. I know you guys said new threads will be tighter and it won't go in as far, but It felt like it was not going in straight and was going to screw in at an angle if I forced it. I didn't get too aggressive with it because I didn't want to mess up any threads. Perhaps I didn't give it enough force, but Ive always thought you shouldn't force them avoid messing up the threads. The regular plug catches the threads and goes in easy. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 5:53pm
Cumby, I've never seen drain cocks on exhaust manifolds, but this system is common on both Correct Crafts and Malibus. Both manifolds are connected to each other by a hose with a union in the middle for easy disconnect and draining. I'd do this rather than put a drain cock in each manifold if you want to eliminate the plugs.
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 6:00pm
| Cumby, I should qualify that I've never seen drain cocks on modern manifolds with the big hole at the end. They are common on 1950's and 1960's stuff. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 6:09pm
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Glen, For some reason with pipe threads on brass fittings, it's common for them to run over (male) and under (female) sized. I have always found a need to set the pipe threader to cut undersize threads on male pipe because the female threads in the fittings where under. The same is true with purchased male threaded fittings. I've had to run a tap in and open up the females many times which is what you'll need to do. What compounds the problem on the block or any casting is the rough uneven surface which makes it hard to get the male thread started. Chase the threads cutting 1 full extra thread and see if you can get the drain cocks started. On your exhaust manifolds, I think I know what the problem is but it's too bad you are having picture problems since that sure would help. I remember someone having a problem with swinging the drain cock because it hit the elbow. He installed brass 45 degree elbows solving it and with the 45 was still able to probe the drain with a wire to get to the sediment. How far is the bushing going into the manifold? That may also be a problem requiring some tapping. Rule of thumb when fitting pipe threads together is you should be able to turn them together 2 to 2&1/2 times by hand before needing the wrench. It's not a bad idea to chase the old threads anyway to clean them up. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 6:10pm
Bruce, Of course you haven't since he is adding them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 7:03pm
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Glen, http://www.mcmaster.com/mva/library/20120305/50785k830l.gif?ver=1323263722" rel="nofollow - This is what I believe was used to get the drain cock in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: poz
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 8:00pm
| I have owned four used inboard boats. Three of them had problems with the drain plugs. Two of them had rounded drain plugs and one I Had to remove with a bolt extractor. The other one the threads were so loose in the block the plug bottomed out so I installed the cheep radiator drains and used some locktite on the threads. I wonder if this problem isn't a combination of corrosion and over torque. I sure like the drains that you guys show from McMaster Carr. I am thinking these drains would save the threads on a lot of boat engines water drains. Another thing I have found that Whink will remove those rust stains on your carpet. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 10:23pm
Not going in far at all. Probably not even one full turn by hand. I was a little nervous about chasing the threads, because it didn't feel like the tap was going in smoothly and I didnt want to force it and mess the threads up. Sounds like thats what I need to do though, ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-22-2015 at 10:24pm
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That looks like it would work. I will try to post the picture from work tomorrow and see if I have any more luck from my PC. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-23-2015 at 11:31am
Here we go. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-23-2015 at 11:39am
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How about taking it apart and installing it in pieces,thread in the reduction bushing first, remove the T from the drain,install it's body,then put the T back in? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: November-23-2015 at 11:48am
Tried that. If you look at the pic the bushing is not flush with the opening...it's tilted down a bit so it would have to go even higher than where I'm holding it. I think the only possibility is to try the angled pieces Pete posted. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-23-2015 at 12:02pm
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The bushing sure has to go deeper into the manifold and then with the 45 it would work however, it looks like that would require the glass exhaust tube to be removed. That must have been what the member I mentioned did to install his. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-23-2015 at 12:20pm
| With the amount and size of rust and scale I tend to get out of my cast iron manifolds, I would have the same concerns with the massively stepped down drain of Pete's as the quick drains from SkiDIM that he dislikes so much, ha. Both seem to be bad ideas to me. They're probably fine on the block drains though, those seem to get plugged up with much smaller sediment and could be probed effectively through the smaller orifice. |