2nd Gen SN pylon support?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37639
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 10:57pm
Topic: 2nd Gen SN pylon support?
Posted By: C-Bass
Subject: 2nd Gen SN pylon support?
Date Posted: November-09-2015 at 12:54pm
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Before I throw the 440 back into the 73 and try running it on the hose, I wanted to address what were obvious issues with the pylon. The pylon looks rotated about 30°, it has a lot of play, and the floor felt pretty soft. I felt underneath the floor and it was clear that someone has tried to reinforce it at some point, but did a very poor job. I pulled up the carpet around the pylon and noticed an aluminum flange that bolts through the floor and was welded to the pylon. I don't know if this is even the right flange, or if it is supposed to be welded or not, but whoever welded it didn't make sure the alignment was right. So the square flange is about 30° off of the ring/finger. Looks ridiculous. I grabbed the Sawzall and went to work cutting out the whole area between the primary stringers. I discovered a pine 2x6, some unsaturated glass, and believe it or not, some 1/2" OSB all sandwiched under there and held together with about 6 wood screws. It was pretty damp but even when it was dry/solid wood this wouldn't have (and didn't) hold up. The cup that is glassed to the hull seems okay. Then there is this offset piece that inserts into the cup and moves the mounting point for the pylon about 4-5" forward. The pylon was then inserted into there. No clue if any of this is original, but I assume it is because the motorbox wouldn't be able to close if the pylon wasn't moved that far forward. I just don't know why the cup that is glassed to the hull wasn't positioned forward enough to where you don't need the "offset" piece in there. I need some guidance on how to repair this. My plan was to CPES the primaries and exposed edges of the floor, then bed down a piece of 3/4" ply that has another piece of 3/4" ply sandwiched to the bottom. Don't know if that's enough support, or what the factory might of had originally. Before anyone suggests it, I will say that I'm fully aware the stringers are probably soaking wet and if I'm going to tear into this at all then I should consider a full stringer job. However, I won't be doing that, at least not yet. I plan to fix this pylon issue, get the engine back in it, and go skiing. Maybe down the road when the 67 project is done I might consider tearing into this one more. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-09-2015 at 1:03pm
| slop it together as cheap and quick as possible.. clearly the 67 is getting the proper love, this one should just get back on the water asap |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-09-2015 at 1:08pm
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Pics would be great. I am having trouble visualizing what you have for a hull mount. Sounds like the cup is in the "normal" spot (for a typical small block boat) and someone came up with a way to compensate for it (big block extending further forward). If that's the case, I would strongly consider grinding the cup out of the bilge and relocating it to the proper spot. Heck, I might have a cup somewhere if you just want to add a 2nd one and leave the original in place. The only thing keeping the early pylons (pre 76) indexed properly was the small bolt through the pin/cup at the hull. The welded square flange that through bolted (with backing plate) at the floor came later. 73 would have just had a beauty ring at the floor. There wouldn't have been any other metal reinforcement at this point, just a (thick) wood crossmember covered in glass/gel. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: November-09-2015 at 1:09pm
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So while the osb is probably not original since it was invented in 1978 – the pylon cup offset device could certainly be a thing that was needed due to sticking a big engine in that boat. The angle might have been oriented correctly and at some point the ring and finger were turned in the pylon. Your plan to put an inch and half of support to put the pylon through is certainly not out of line with what would have originally been there. I would consider using a solid piece of fir with a little glass around it as the reinforcement instead of more below the floor plywood that tend to rot quicker. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: November-09-2015 at 1:10pm
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Apparently a few of us are following your project .. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: November-09-2015 at 1:47pm
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HW, that's my mantra for this boat! I don't have pics handy, but here is a 2 minute paintshop sketch of how the offset is in there. I don't know if they cut down the pylon to keep the same overall height, of if this pylon sits a little higher than other 2nd gens. But the offset piece definitely adds height. There were no bolts/pins in either cup mounting point, so this thing was not stable at all. Direct pull behind the boat would be ok, but anything from an angle and it wanted to swivel the offset piece around the hull mounting point.  ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |