Floor maintenance time
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37952
Printed Date: December-02-2024 at 12:20pm
Topic: Floor maintenance time
Posted By: gmars70970
Subject: Floor maintenance time
Date Posted: January-10-2016 at 8:41am
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I've finally put it off for as long as possible, it's time to remove the foam and stringers. Really really really not looking forward to this. Removed the seats & carpets this morning, time to dig into the foam and see what sort of mess is down there. I'll post some pictures of what I find later 😢 |
Replies:
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: January-10-2016 at 12:48pm
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I lifted the fibre glass covering from the foam today. Not as bad as what I was expecting to be honest. The worst bit was the wooden sheet below the seats. I tried to push a screw driver into the wooden spars/supports but they were solid, wet....... but solid.     
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-10-2016 at 1:32pm
Dig deeper. I just went thru the same scenario with my Mustang. Some water soaked foam on top BUT the major water and damage was against the hull. If I went this far I would at least take the foam up that contacts the main stringers and inspect that area. I think you will find more damage than you have.  Also check around the front lift ring bracket. I posted this week the hidden damage mine had. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: January-10-2016 at 1:41pm
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Thanks for the advice, I'll start digging the foam out tomorrow morning. Tried to hammer a screw driver into the wooden beams but their absolutely solid ! I cut about 1" from the top of the foam and it seems pretty dry, just trying to fool myself into believing there's no disasters ahead. 
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-10-2016 at 2:06pm
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Take a hand saw or drywall saw and cut down to the hull against the stringer and remove a slug of foam approx 8 X 12 in a couple spots for an autopsy. . ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 10:21am
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I removed the foam from under the drivers seat area this morning as this was the worst bit of flooring on initial look. The top 1/2" - 1" was wet, but the rest of the foam is totally dry. I think i'll just recover everything In fibreglass and put a thin sheet of flooring over the whole floor, seal it all up and get another few seasons out the boat. Does this sound like a good idea?   Short clip of pressing the foam to check for water: https://www.dropbox.com/s/s9rg85h52jg0nvl/Video%2011-01-2016%2C%2013%2003%2000.mov?dl=0" rel="nofollow - checking for damp |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 10:41am
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You've already got the floor up and I know that its not a fun job but if it were my boat I'd start removing ALL the foam so as to inspect the entire stringer system. A dry wall saw will cut thru it quickly. Why button it all up now and come back 2 years from now to start over again? ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 10:46am
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Graeme, I happen to agree with Tim. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 10:49am
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Ok, sounds like a plan to me. I'll remove the rest of the foam today and tomorrow and see what the situation is from there. Novice question........ probably been asked a thousand times........... does the foam need to be replaced ? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 11:00am
No, the foam doesn't need to be replaced. Many have gone with no foam boats however, since the foam provided support for the floor, you would need to go heavier than what CC did. 5/8" (you can convert it!  ) ply is common.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 1:08pm
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No turning back now! The wood has all solid so far.   
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Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: January-11-2016 at 2:24pm
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Graeme, You may find all the wood to be good just very wet, if it’s been used in sea water or brackish water for some time the salt would stop wood rotting, One of mine was the same floor was gone from rain water but stringer system all good just very wet. Good luck with it Roger. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: January-12-2016 at 2:07pm
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I'm really surprised how good the wood is. I thought it would have been really rotten in a 35yr old boat ! Possibly being a UK boat it hasn't spent as long in the water over the years due to our poor weather. The only rotten wood was the plywood under the single seat. Woodwork is not my strong point, metal I'm fine with but wood not so much. Is there a simple way (idiots guide) to make templates for the wooden strengthening batons from stringer to the sides of hull if I decide to go with no foam? Am I possibly better (easier) just replacing the foam with new foam and rebuilding the boat as it was originally ? SORRY FOR LAST PART, Currently reading previous posts on the Foam v No Foam debate |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: February-09-2016 at 8:13pm
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I've now found a rotten section on one stringer 😢 Unless I can patch in a repair section it looks like I'll need to get the engine lifted out and do a full stringer job. Are there any standard drawings for a 1980 stringer or are all stringers different? |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-09-2016 at 10:27pm
Not sure if someone on this site has any CAD renderings of the stringers for your boat, but I know many have used the old stringers as templates for new so long as the old ones were in good enough shape after removing them. Post some pics of the rot if you can. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
gmars70970 wrote:Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: February-10-2016 at 2:59pm
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If you won’t to ski this year a patch repair is the way forward unless you have lots of spare time between now and spring. Here in the UK we have some options not readily available in the USA for stringers. If you go-ahead on a complete rebuild and the old stringers are no good as patterns my cad drawings may help on pre cradle http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13673&PN=3&title=uks-78-sn" rel="nofollow - Gen 2 SN bottom of the page, the hull shape is the same just adjust the top of the stringers to your shape with cradle. The cad drawing can be plotted out full size for a paper templates as some have done. Good luck with it ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 5:09pm
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UK1979 Your a star mate! I'm going to try to lift the engine out in the next fortnight. (busy with boxing championships right now) Once I get the engine out it might be easier to see just exactly what is required. Some clown has attempted a poor patch repair under the passenger seat stringer. So i've removed the old repair and got a small heater running in the garage to take the chill out the air. Another question........ I can get my hands on Monothane SA90A Resin. I was thinking of making the extra floor supports i'll need from this. Anybody any experience of using this instead of wood? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 5:19pm
Graeme, I couldn't find much info on the Monothane except it's a Dow product and looks like the product line is used for casting parts. It also looks like heat is required for curing? I suggest sticking with the epoxies, polyesters and polyvinyls for marine use. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 5:24pm
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I'm also going to speak nicely to the manager at work. A section in the factory has a fibreglass spray m/c. Wondering if I replace the stringers then wheel the boat into work and get the full inside sprayed. Would save a lot of labour! The m/c is the same as this: 
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Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 5:28pm
I was thinking of making templates up, 2" wide and getting the monothane poured and cured in the ovens at work. Then just fitting into place. I couldn't find much information on a life span etc tho. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 5:38pm
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Making the molds to cast the Monothane would be more work than replacing the stringers! One thing I found out, is the molds need to be air tight. Next is the strength. Have you looked at any of the statistics? Compare it to Douglas Fir. I don't feel a chop system is the way to go. To get the same strength out of it, I understand you need twice the build thickness compared to fiberglass cloths. It's the way cheap boats are made!!! Graeme, "bite the bullet" and do a traditional job on the stringers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 5:43pm
This is exactly the sort of advice I'm looking for! I'm totally new to working with fibreglass and didn't realise the chop system was different to the traditional method. Since I'm as far into the project I don't want to cut corners for a sub standard refurb. All advice is appreciated |
Posted By: snob206
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 6:11pm
 just pulled rotten wood all of it; next step is to remove foam; I am planning on using coosa board for stringers and floor supports; not sure what to do about foam ------------- frank |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 6:58pm
Pete This must put Correct Craft in the "somewhat cheap" category these days since they use a combination of hand layup and chopper gun construction according to info put out by Correct Craft themselves KenO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2016 at 7:04pm
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Frank, Welcome to CCfan. If you haven't already, take some time to search out the site. There are a couple members who have done fantastic composite stringer jobs using Coosa. The sites search feature isn't the greatest so I suggest doing a "google" search using correct craft fan and coosa as key words. Lot's of instructional info and pictures in their threads. Keep the pictures coming. I also feel starting your own thread on the your project would keep everything focused ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: February-15-2016 at 3:52pm
A few ideas on stringer material in the UK. Yes you can go with Douglas fir up in Scotland should be some around home grown... no need to be all planed up straight off the saw is good will give a better key when bonding. Here in the UK we have Accoya treated wood ( it’s a type of pickling of wood ) that can take glue/epoxies to bond, has a 50 + year warranty against rotting but it’s not cheap soft wood is around the cost of oak. We also have lots of Jarrah laying around which we plundered from OZ back in the early 20th century most was used as rail way sleepers and come in at 10ft long which is a bit short but you can find longer ones used at points... The cool thing about this wood is its ability not to rot as the tree sap/wood has a mild antiseptic that rot hates, the down side is its very dense so hard to cut so you would need to have someone with a band resaw to size, should get 2 stringers out of one sleeper @ 11’x6 inches 10ft long ones go for around £25.00 the outside may look bad but its only the frost over many years inside the wood is good. Composite can be made here too, last I checked Coosa is not here in the UK, but high density foam sheets are,..rule of thumb if an engine bed is on the stringers you need 30 Ib + for core foam do it in two layers so you can run a fibre glass roving /or biaxial cloth down the middle and stagger the foam joints side to side as foam come in around 8x4ft sheets. I would research the fibreglass system you have at work... I think your Idea of Cloth/biaxial and spray would be just fine you just need to know what you can use with the work system polyester, vinyl , epoxies I’m all for using what’s to hand with a few tweaks. Keep us posted Roger. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: September-20-2016 at 7:40pm
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Finally getting back into the stringer repair. Removed the fuel tank & mufflers yesterday 👍🏻 Full of motivation at the moment, so just to figure out how to remove the engine and its full steam ahead over the winter months. |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: September-21-2016 at 2:17pm
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a cherry picker works good for removing the engine... check craigslist and find one for a hundred bucks or so. you'll need to keep it around to put the engine back in, so find one that is "folding". the legs come off of these versions and store in the base of the hoist. You'll need to take the tire off of the trailer to get the engine over the gunnel, so don't forget that part before you start lifting edit: I didn't check your location first... hopefully Scottland has a craigslist of sorts
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Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: September-21-2016 at 7:31pm
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We have Craigslist but it's not really well used in Scotland. I managed to get my hands on an old block & tackle today 👍🏻 also talked a mate into giving me some scaffolding to build a frame so hopefully have the engine out soon. |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:18pm
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Eventually got a frame built to remove the engine!! Are there designated lifting points or can I just sling right round the engine?  
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:27pm
| fore end of starboard head and aft end of port head should have rings screwed in, but there are many ways to lift and engine |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:37pm
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Thanks. I'll get some eyebolts sorted out this week and get it lifted out. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:43pm
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Graeme, From the picture, the top horizontal member where you will be attaching the means of lifting the engine looks pretty light. Do check it since I'd hate to see it bend with the weight of the engine on it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:56pm
| I think its the angle of the picture making it look light. I was thinking of putting another cross beam on top of that one to double up for more strength. |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: October-10-2016 at 8:36pm
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Well done Graeme, I'm looking forwards to following the progress.. ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-20-2016 at 5:05pm
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Finally got the engine out today !!!Been putting it off and off and off. But got it lifted out in 5 mins with a forklift. Now the real work starts!!! 
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-20-2016 at 5:24pm
| yuck |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-20-2016 at 5:28pm
Yeh I'm really not looking forward to it 
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Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: October-20-2016 at 8:07pm
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Good luck. Keep us posted ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: October-23-2016 at 8:11am
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Doing it in your garage Graeme? Nice winter project!! ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-23-2016 at 1:21pm
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Yip, that's it tucked away for the winter. Just to tidy the garage up a wee bit then level the boat up & it's time to get started. I've ZERO experience of fibreglassing so feeling a bit nervous about it. |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: October-30-2016 at 3:01pm
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Getting somewhere now !! Still to level the boat up and start cutting, but that's all the cables out the way now!!    ]
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Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-01-2018 at 4:15pm
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After a SERIOUSLY long lay off from the refurb, a change in employment, I FINALLY made a start on the stringers today again. The secondary stringer came out whole, hopefully the mains are the same  
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Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: April-01-2018 at 7:20pm
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I bet this has been on the back of your mind for a while. Good luck getting her done. ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-12-2018 at 2:05pm
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Another good mornings work on the stringers. That's the engine cradle and one of the main stringers out. Wood work isn't my strong point, so I need to make a decision about do I buy a router and make the stringers myself or find a joiner to make them for me. Surely cant be that hard since I have one to copy????  
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Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: April-12-2018 at 3:10pm
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Graeme Yes it can be done on a hand router using the old as jigs… if you get yourself a half decent jigsaw and good blades and finish to shape with a hand belt sander 40 or 60 grit your find the nose wheel on the sander will sand the big rads your soon get the feel of it…do a few practice bits on off cuts, this may be better for you if have low woodworking skills. Good luck with the build Roger. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-12-2018 at 3:44pm
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Cheers Think i'll go ahead and give it a go. Might find an old joist to practice on first. tho. Really want to be able to say "i did that" when its renovated and back in the water lol |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: July-30-2019 at 3:39pm
After 3 YEARS sitting in the garage im finally getting somewhere 👍👍
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Posted By: 1993R
Date Posted: July-30-2019 at 9:59pm
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You have to get this done before I visit my relatives again in Irvine. You have had a good summer there so I know you are itching to get the boat back in action Seriously keep pressing on. Cheers Larry |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 5:46am
I'm only about 3 miles away from Irvine...…… Bring your tools as i'd imagine this will still be a work in progress when you visit lol |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: August-01-2019 at 11:45am
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On a roll at the moment :) 6 layers of fibreglass so far, another 1 or 2 layers to go, its not as pretty as some of the work i've seen on here but it will defo be solid. Used 10kg of 2 part polyurethane liquid foam so far and still got the bow to fill.  
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