GT40 experts required
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37989
Printed Date: September-25-2024 at 8:18am
Topic: GT40 experts required
Posted By: Luchog
Subject: GT40 experts required
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 8:18am
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I've been experiencing an issue with my GT40 (20 annyversay) in a no CC boat for the last few months. After a really great running summer, I stored the boat for 2 months on winter, as soon as I started this season it developed a slight miss or hiccup, more noticeable at planning speeds, as a random cylinder didnt fire. sometimes it was really rough and for some running periods it was barely noticeable or did not occur. Some days boat started great and started missing after a 10 minute period run. My first thought was a fuel issue, so I drained the FCC, changed the filter, cleaned checked the LPF screen. Checked fuel pressure, 35psi at idle, noticed a quick drop to 0 after shutdown, so I replaced the FPR. pressure now drops slowly to 10psi, but issue still present. Also gave the injectors a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, replaced all orings. Also started using premium grade fuel, and draining the FCC on each outing to eliminate any alcohol/water. No antisiphon valve is installed. Also thought after some months of storage in a closed humid enviroment such as the motor box, I thought on moisture affecting the electrical/ignition, so I did thew following: Checked on cap and rotor, no visible cracks or corrosion on posts. Switched the FP and ECA relays, made no difference. Checked spark plugs, all 8 are more carbon coloured than tan, (boat's a bit overpropped) Sprayed contact cleaner on ignition, ECA and sensor connectors. Also ran the boat without the tach to discard it messing the ignition. Ran the boat with both the oil pressure and temperature switches disconnected. Last time out, boat was really low on power, So I checked compression and all soldiers are in great shape at 150psi, but i'm still clueless on what to try next. Situation being a scanner is locally unavailable, and parts are really hard to get by, I 'd appreciate to get some advise and guidance on what to check or test next.. thanks in advance. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 11:50am
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I would suspect spark plug wires. I think there is a way to check them with ohm meter, might want to google that. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 12:03pm
| I am as far from an expert as the moon. I had one acting similarly a few years back. It ended up being a loose wire on one of the fuel injectors. Where the wire went into the plastic snap connector fitting(cant think of the term) it was not seated all the way. Once in a while it would lose connectivity and sputter. It acted like a "short". I do remember it was absolute luck that we found it! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 12:33pm
Chris is correct but you want to use a mega ohm meter. The difference is it sends high voltage through the wires. It will also detect if there's any spots in the insulation where the power is shunting to ground such as a wire bracket/holder. Even though I'm always preaching testing first, in this case, it's probably just as easy to put a new set on. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 2:44pm
| gee a cap and rotor sure is cheap and they do go bad |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 3:50pm
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Are the Cap and Rotor on a GT-40 the same as the Automotive counterpart?? Could make it way easier/cheaper for him finding parts. On my Excalibur they are the same - not marine specific ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 7:25pm
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Luch plugs, wires, cap & rotor would be my first move. They are standard Ford automotive parts on the GT40. There is a after market scanner available for the Gt40 that is very cheap. Probably cheaper than any of the tune up parts. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW" rel="nofollow - EEC1V Code Reader Scanner ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 9:06pm
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It seems that Motorcraft caps for cars have aluminium contacts and PCM caps use brass. The automotive ones also have a removeable cap at the #1 contact and for some reason that the PCM ones do not. My 95 had an aluminium one on it when I got it and it ran fine. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 10:14pm
Gary I think most of the quality dizzy caps are still brass terminals. I purchased a Accel cap and rotor kit for mine it has the rubber cap next to number 1 like you described. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 10:16pm
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either way they are not on the shelf at local parts store...351w were never sold down here...so parts have to be imported from the US. ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 10:31pm
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Luch another thought with all this talk of distributor caps have a look inside dissy. Give the stator (PIP hall effect sensor) assembly a twist and see if it moves the plastic gets brittle and breaks down over time. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 10:35pm
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Kap I use Amazon to get most of my Ford parts from the states. We have on the shelf parts for the 351W in Aus but still cheaper to import from the US in a lot of cases. The freight is very cheap no more expensive than local shipping. I think they have a multiple warehouses scattered in different countries. Must have one in Australia maybe Argentina has one also  ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 11:16pm
 the Motorcraft oem's are aluminium Mark,anywhere to save a penny. Kap,I think a fuel injected Ford 5.0 (302) of 1990-1993 vintage uses the same cap if you have those there------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-19-2016 at 11:46pm
Slight thread jack here: Mark, What's the "PIP"? I'm only familiar with PNP and NPN. I tried looking up the PIP and couldn't find anything. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-20-2016 at 12:28am
Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) a PCM GT40 terminolgy not a electrical acronym. The GT40 uses a hall effect sensor and a slotted cup on the distributor shaft to determine crankshaft position and rpms. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2016 at 6:42am
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Mark, Thanks. Got it! No wonder why I couldn't find an answer searching electrical acronyms. Having used plenty of sensors with ether PNP or NPN logic, I thought there was a new one on me! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: January-23-2016 at 9:07pm
Dead on!!!! managed to fix the stator in position and boat pèrformed great all day. No doubt this should go in the GT40 chart. Thanks Lewy! Thanks to all for the advise given as well. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-25-2016 at 11:26pm
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I'll add this one to the GT-40 Diagnosis thread and spreadsheet. So, is the fix to replace the PIP, replace the dizzy, or just figure out some way to secure the PIP in place? |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: January-25-2016 at 11:58pm
In my case, just fixing the stator into position solved the issue. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: January-26-2016 at 12:02am
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Hey Lucho, glad you got the issue squared out! Saw some pictures on Fb that made my figure yo had fixed your boat! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-26-2016 at 12:09am
| Ok cool. |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-26-2016 at 6:49am
To change the stator assembly is a quite a big job. If you can manage to secure the original assembly without changing it is a bonus. I was thinking of a product like "plastex" but a super glue may get you out of trouble for a little while. To change stator it requires removing dissy pressing gear of the shaft and removing. (The dissy shaft goes through the centre of the stator assembly). ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: January-27-2016 at 10:00pm
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Just wanted to add that locking the stator in place also solved a jumping tachometer that i've experienced since owning the boat, ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-01-2016 at 4:35pm
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Hi Luchog - just reading this post and want to clarify the fix you used. I have a 1995 GT40 with very similar problems last summer. Boat runs great most of the time but occasionally it will miss-fire and hesitate after pulling first 2-3 sets of the day. So "fixing the stator into position" solved the problem ? |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-01-2016 at 11:36pm
In my case it did. But the failure was consistant. Have you done a complete tune up? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: ScottZ
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 1:57am
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I have replaced the distributor assembly. That is the quickest solution. ------------- Scott Zuelzke Lake Mitchell , AL 1984 Ski Nautique 1972 Skier |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 3:04pm
| a complete tune up has not been done in several years. I will need to check with my father on dates of service. Any recommendations on what should be addressed in a complete tune up ? |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 6:35pm
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Alright. .another Keuka Fan! Live in town or on the lake? ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 6:40pm
| My family has been on the lake for over 40 years. We are spread around the northeast now but Keuka is always the destination of choice over the summer. |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 7:20pm
And a great choice indeed! Where's your place? My family has been there since the Revolutionary War. I live in Georgia now, but we get to Keuka every summer, we have a family cottage on West Bluff that's been there forever....... My brother also lives year-round on west bluff up near the park,, and my mother lives by the college.. There's another CCFan "Keuka" in Hammondsport,, lives in the village I think. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 7:36pm
| We are a few miles south of Penn Yan on the east side. Summertime cannot come fast enough... |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 9:51pm
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I guess that'd put you somewhere around Camp Cory. Some nice coves over there. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-02-2016 at 11:53pm
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Keuka 95 GT-40, Take a look through this thread, there are a number of different possibilities for a hesitation, and many of them are cheaper fixes than the distributor: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&title=poor-mans-gt40-diagnosis" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&title=poor-mans-gt40-diagnosis |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 4:57pm
| 74 Wind - forgot to ask you before, can you recommend any mechanics on Keuka that could work on our '95 Nautique ? Seagar Marine in Canandaigua is the closest Nautique dealer but I know there are plenty of Nautiques on Keuka. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 5:02pm
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Keuka 95 - What a great place to be! Love that area - We know the Viking's Owners.... Whatever happened to Harbor Lights? Behind White Lake, I thought they were the second oldest CC dealer...... ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 5:32pm
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Keuka95: there's a good mechanic on West branch near branchport who has worked on my brothers 72 Southwind for years, I'll get his name. Air: haven't seen the viking party boat in years, or any for that matter. They beached the Keuka Maid (thank god..an ugly beast) and recently retired the Esperanza Rose, which was a beautiful craft Harbor lights still there but not been cc for years. Don't go there much but have been known to frequent the Lakeside next door.. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 8:04pm
| Thanks for the help with the mechanic's name. i owe you a beer while drifting in front of The Waterfront on a Sunday afternoon for live music ! I'll be the guy paddling a nautique... |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 8:40pm
Haha that's funny! My family owned it in the 70's when it was The Vintage. I lived in a little apartment which is right where the dock bar on the right is now. We also ran The Wheel Inn, was that all before your time? Here's a few Waterfront sunday shots from last summer, I like the one with my 83 year old Mom....I hope I'm still rafting at that age...   ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 10:38pm
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Dan: Got it. TJ's Marine. Tom McKerlie 607-868-3416 And if you ever see this one at the Waterfront, its my brother, Say hi and tell him you're a correct craft fan.....  ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: March-10-2016 at 11:26am
Love the pictures !! and thanks for the name at TJ's Marine. Here is a picture from last summer in front of The Waterfront. Just behind my son (showing off his motorbox dance moves) is my 83 year old dad enjoying another summer day. Your brother's boat does look familiar...I will keep an eye out for him this summer.
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Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 4:37am
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hey this sounds exactly like my hesitation problem! considering I've fixed darn near everything else that could have caused it.. but wondering.. what does this stator/ hall effect sensor look like? just remove the distributor cap? and once I find it how did you secure the thang if it's loose?? lol thanks for any help. Jon ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: Morten50
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 9:19am
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Hello Folks ! This message originates in Mallorca Pollença ! Hpoe you have a good time wherever you are located ! I'm searching exhaust maniofolds plus elbow risers plus gaskets (the full exhaust extraction kit) for ny Ford PCM Pro Boss 5.8 L 351w 285 HP V8 (type GT 40) engine. My boat is a Nautique Excel model 1992 Any hints where best to buy for reliable parts and efficient delivery service UPS or DHL here in Mallorca ? Best regards to y'all Morten |
Posted By: Morten50
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 9:23am
| I forget to arrange for warnings when there are replies |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 1:32pm
| Not sure if your question got answered but Skidim.com or Nautiqueparts.com will have all your exhaust needs covered. |
Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 4:34pm
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hey so my reply above wasn't answered.. and my forum thread got 'locked' sheesh.. sounds like I'm having a very similar problem as described at the beginning of this forum.. the distributor looks pretty corroded by the stator etc. wondering now, can i take it apart and clean it? maybe just replace the whole distributor? can i source one at an automotive parts store? I'm here in CA hoping my 4th of July doesn't. suck but the boat gods seem to be mad at me. maybe just the stator is loose like this forum explained? just look in the distributor and wiggle the thing the sensor wires attach to? then secure it w/ silicone glue?? halp!!!! (thanks) Jon  ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 4:44pm
| I don't know if you need a GT40 expert or a boss pro expert but I don't believe the 285HP engine is a GT40. The GT 40 is a 310HP engine. My GT40 distributor has some visible corrosion too but it's functioning fine. |
Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 4:48pm
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Think it's a GT-40? PCM 5.8 'pro boss' GT-40 It's in a 99 sport nautique.. ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 5:39pm
| Oh of course. I confused you with another poster with the 92 Barefoot. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 8:04pm
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Jon, sorry your question got missed. The GT-40 dizzy is available online, but I guess that wouldn't help you for the 4th. Generally marine versions of dizzy' shave extra spark protection, so you wouldn't want an automotive version. |
Posted By: Keuka 95 GT40
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 10:45am
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Hey Jon - after a few delays, we finally got our Nautique into the dealer and yesterday I made the trip to Keuka to give the boat a full test run. I'm happy to report the hesitation (skip) issue we experienced when the engine was warm has been fixed ! As my father tells me, the mechanic explained the FCC (fuel control cell) had a fuel line with a kink. The fuel line was replaced, elbow installed, and new fuel line installed from FCC to tank. I can provide more details if necessary. There was some indication of "vapor lock" as a result of the kink from the bad fuel line. Hope this helps. PS - we survived last summer by making sure we kept the motor box open after a few skiers or if the boat was sitting at the dock for 1-2 hours before we went back out. Our problem never surfaced on a cold engine. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 4:34pm
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More info would be great. Where was the kink? Where did they put the elbow (assuming where the line got kinked). Why did the fuel line need replaced all the way back to the tank? (Deterioration?) Thanks this info may help others down the road. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 5:23pm
You would have to do some research or maybe Mark knows but I thought I heard the auto and marine were the same ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 10:27pm
| You might be right Gary. I hate to leave someone hanging but maybe that's better than responding with a generalization as an answer. |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 10:32pm
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Ljon, what's your simptom? your distributor looks pretty good... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-04-2016 at 11:14am
Same and under 75 bucks w/core from Rockauto vs 500 at marine parts just make sure you get the correct type gear (steel or cast) I'm not sure which ours have. You can also get the inside parts but as Lewy said their a pain to rebuild and for the cost of a new/referb just drop the whole thing in. The only thing you have to do is put silicone in the cap vent, that's how one I ordered from skidim came so I've been getting local since. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: July-04-2016 at 11:53am
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Gary What do you mean by silicone in the cap vent? I see the little cap. What needs to be done? |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-04-2016 at 12:19pm
The little button looking thing is a vent. Fill with silicone from the inside 
|
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: July-04-2016 at 12:33pm
| So the objective is to seal the vent, correct? |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-04-2016 at 12:39pm
| Yes that way gas fumes can't enter the cap and ignite |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: July-04-2016 at 12:56pm
| Thanks, buddy! |