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Just got a dui distributor.

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38472
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 1:00pm


Topic: Just got a dui distributor.
Posted By: camron18
Subject: Just got a dui distributor.
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 10:54pm
Ordered it yesturday at noon from summit and already got it today!

Looks awesome My question is should there be up and down play on the shaft to the housing? About 1/16 inch up and down play. It looks like there are set screws to adjust it? Anyone have this?



Replies:
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 11:36pm
Steve K. (Air 206) just installed one in his 91 Vee Drive Barefoot Nautique last week. They dialed it in at the White Lake, NC reunion. Go to the White Lake Thread and PM Steve for questions. TBenj and JoeNY are very familiar with their application and operation.
Steve is in Virginia.

You will be in good hands.

Donald

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1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S.
1968 Ski Nautique, Project.


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-22-2016 at 1:04am
Cameron:
My Performance Distributors DUI for the 454 was not adjustable. Are there instructions that came with yours for fitment? I was so new at all this that I actually read mine.... I know, crazy - right?.

Mine said that there should be up and down play in the distributor shaft and it should engage but NOT bottom out - as that will cause damage. It came with a flat fiber washer to act as a spacer between the block and the neck of the distributor shaft.

Hope that helps. Look at Jpass' write up for his "ProTec Ignition Swap" . The 454 has slightly different issues and I'll make a modification post sometime soon.

Feel free to PM me.... but I warn you, I know very little..... but it ran! Ha!

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-22-2016 at 8:22am
I can't recall if there was any free play on my DUI shaft. I do know that I did nothing to the DUI shaft prior to installation. I'd give Performance a call and run it by them (901) 396-5782.




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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-22-2016 at 2:08pm
i just called them they said up and down play is normal.

Thanks


Posted By: Siveck
Date Posted: April-24-2016 at 12:04am
I installed mine in my 351W about 11 years ago and do not recall any play or adjustment. I do remember that the instructions mentioned to bump the starter if needed to engage the oil pump drive and that was one of the top 10 mistakes of my life. The brass teeth on the distributor somehow sheered all but one of the hardened teeth off of the camshaft. Chewed up the brass as well. That is the reason that I now own a cherry picker or engine hoist. Oh, any by the way, Comp Cams has reverse cut blanks that can be custom ground for our reverse rotation motors.

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1975 Ski Nautique
"Small Letter Boat"


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: April-24-2016 at 12:20am
I seem to recall some play, maybe less than 1/16".

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Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 10:34am
Got the dui installed this weekend and it really does "fire up with gusto!" my brother in law helped me out and made a great suggestion. he said maybe now we should get a new air filter.

Now i got all kinds of random wire harnesses and sensors that are not plugged into anything that i want to get rid of. ill try to take a pic but it seems like i need to keep the electric choke, oil pressure and temp senders. is there anything else?


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 10:50am
The only sensor you lost in the ProTec swap to DUI is the knock sensor. You may wish to review JPASS' post as it is a good review of the wiring and diagram.

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 11:01am
120 bucks or so and you can buy a new harness that omits all the old protec stuff.


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by camron18 camron18 wrote:


Now i got all kinds of random wire harnesses and sensors that are not plugged into anything that i want to get rid of. ill try to take a pic but it seems like i need to keep the electric choke, oil pressure and temp senders. is there anything else?


The oil and temp switches and knock sensor are not used anymore. You can cut off all the old connectors just make sure any wires that are still hot get the ends covered in shrink tube, If you used JPASS'es write up then there won't be any hot wires left over.   If you wanted to get creative the oil/temp switches are wired together and could be used to drive an alarm or dash lights (or shut down the motor) if a low oil or high temp condition occurs. They short to ground when a failure is detected so just use them as the low side of the circuit.


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 1:35pm
I think i have alot more wires than just the ones in JPASS write up.
There are gadgets that are just laying on top of the manifold that have been there since we bought it, the previous owner said they were for the EFI but he converted it to carb, anyone know where i can find info on that?

Also when i disconnected the coil pack the bracket with the starter solenoid and fuses also came disconnected along with another box of some sort. i don't know what that is also.



You can kinda see a few of the plugs im talking about here.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 1:42pm
Ah, this was a TBI to carb conversion as well, not just ignition. Yea, probably more wiring.


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 1:44pm
I am liking Zach's idea of the harness swap......
N3 will have one that I JUST returned yesterday.

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 1:55pm
http://www.skidim.com/WIRE-HARNESS-ELEC-IGN-FORD/productinfo/R121025A/" rel="nofollow - is this the harness?


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 2:13pm
Looks similar, Mine was a 454, non-EFI - Check with Townsend at Nautiqueparts.com.

He'll hook you up (discount for being a member too)......

(You don't have to swap, though. It gives you a chance to "clean it up", and make sure you don't have resistance issues and voltage drop in an old harness. Mine was good, without voltage drops but I didn't have all that.)

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 2:36pm
anyone know if i can cut and connect to make my own?


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 2:48pm
Do you know which schematic matches your harness?


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 2:56pm
no is there a TBI schematic?


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 3:55pm
What year and model boat?


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 4:06pm
1994 hydrodyne.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 5:38pm
Not worth the swap out Steve?? I hear it's running nicely after WL


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-25-2016 at 6:05pm
Definitely not worth the swap. It's all neatly soldered and bundled up now. Plus, I had several non-original senders wired into the Pro-Tec Circuit Breaker which is not accounted for in the new harness.... so I would still have a spliced harness.   

Runs AWESOME!

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 2:34pm
what is your electric choke wired to? ive seen some say alternator, some say temp sensor?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 2:58pm
Cameron,
With a carb and standard ignition, the choke is wired into the switched ignition feed from the key switch.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 2:59pm
Very cool Steve !


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:03pm
so it is wired in all the way under the dash? or at the solenoid?


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:09pm
Normally, it just taps into the ign fd wire in the harness next to the carb.


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:10pm
right now it is taped into a wire that runs into a computer that has all the extra TBI harnesses. im trying to take that out. so where would be a good place to connect it to?


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:24pm
It needs to be connected to the purple ignition feed wire from the dash. A full 12v needs to be sent to the choke so whatever wire you're using to supply the DUI will be fine as long as running voltage is above 12v to both.


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:32pm
okay that is what ill do then.

Thanks alot!!


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:37pm
The wire that comes out of the harness is usually red for the choke but if you cut the harness tape it's just spliced into the ignition feed wire in the harness before the ballast resistor. No biggie. Sometimes a bad choke pulling too much voltage can cause the feed to go down so just check the voltage to the ignition and choke when you get it running.


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 3:51pm
Wait! ............don't mess with the harness.

The new DUI uses switched ignition - you can share that wire source.

Also, you should still have your ProTec circuit breaker which is a switched ignition 12v+. That is near the carb and a freely accessible attachment point (no crazy splicing). Terminal 26 on the diagram below.............

http://i.imgur.com/PFfMmWJ.jpg%20" rel="nofollow">
http://i.imgur.com/PFfMmWJ.jpg%20" rel="nofollow">

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 4:07pm
It looks like on the diagram it is terminal 41, will either work?


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 5:14pm
Yes.... but:
26 is the breaker protected side (out)....
41 is from the engine harness unprotected side (in).
Use the breaker if you got it........... (plus, there physically should be more room on the 26 terminal, if it was like mine)
Put a volt meter on it when the ignition is "ON" to verify. (ground out on nearby relay ground)

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 5:36pm
I would not recommend protected side of that 2.5A breaker. That breaker was likely there to protect the (now defunct) Protec computer and/or small gauge wiring that fed it. The wiring in the harness can handle more current, and I would not intentionally limit what is supplied to the DUI. Connect to the unprotected side.


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: April-26-2016 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by camron18 camron18 wrote:

1994 hydrodyne.


I couldn't find a harness schematic. The PCM Pro Boss GT-40 manual in the reference section has a lot of info in it that may or may not apply to your engine. I would look through it and see if you can identify some of the components/sensors. It looks like there may be a MAP sensor in your picture. Based on what you figure out you could clean up the harness.

How did you wire your tach?

As far as the choke goes I would wire it as TRbenj mentioned. Before the 12V gets to the key it comes from the 50Amp breaker point 22 on the engine then up to the dash and through the ignition breaker then to the key and back to points 28/41 and 31 so it is protected by two separate breakers.


Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: May-04-2016 at 1:46pm
So i got the dui all hooked up and timed, runs great
Got all the unnecessary computer and wire harnesses out.
Runs great. but after i shut it down it looks like fuel is dripping from the boosters and causing it to flood? When its cold it fires right up. if i start it right away after running it it starts fine. but if i leave it sit for 20 min it floods and is really hard to start.


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: May-11-2016 at 10:03pm
Might be time for a carb re-build. You should not have fuel dripping out anywhere.

JQ

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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum



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