help! first boat almost there!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38948
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 8:31am
Topic: help! first boat almost there!
Posted By: LjonSF
Subject: help! first boat almost there!
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:27am
|
Hey CCfan peeps! well after getting a 'good deal' on my first boat - 99 sport nautique w/ 600 hours, PCM PRO BOSS GT-40. I've spent the last year working on it, restoring gel coat, diagnosing problems, and fixing them to the best of my abilities.. couple new relays got her running initially, new distrib cap & rotor, plug wires, oil etc, replaced the little hose to the high pressure pump, then a new low pressure fuel pump got her running much better.. but I'm still getting the same problem when i take her out. so far, the money/time spent to fun ratio is pretty dang skewed. anyways the motor runs/ sounds great/ smooth until after a little time running she hesitates for half a second, losing all power for a beat or two. seems to get progressively worse the longer I'm out. figure I'll run through all the ground/ electrical connections, clean them & add dielec grease.. also just picked up a INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader maybe it will help me diagnose? suppose I should attach a pressure gauge and test the injector psi while running.. anyways if this sounds familiar to any of you/ or if you have recommendations of what to test/ replace I'd certainly appreciate it. not sure i can stomach another trip to the water to discover I still haven't fixed the problem. this forum had really been helping I'm almost there!!! much thanks Jon ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 4:51pm
|
there is a gt-40 diagnostic thread, if your not familiar with it... I don't have any suggestions other than that. I hope you get It soon, I can relate to the fun/cost equation, but once it's right, that will change too. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 6:55pm
|
Here is the link to that thread: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&title=poor-mans-gt40-diagnosis" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&title=poor-mans-gt40-diagnosis When you say lose all power, like your dash goes out and everything? Or just all engine power. Is this a key switch or touch pad type of dash? |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 11:32pm
|
Fuel pick-up? I had what sounds like the same issue. Pulled that tube out, was clogged with dirt and insects and whatnot. Easy and cheap too, so I'd start there! ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 3:49am
|
Well I've done a few things before I test her again tomorrow.. cleaned all the elec grounds, replaced the TFI ignition module (the old one looked pretty dang corroded where it makes contact) connected an INNOVA code reader and ran a KOEO test and got code 11 - 10 - 15 which according the the Pro Boss service manual says to 'Measure resistance between PWR GND circuit at EEC power relay engine harness connector and battery negative post). so ah did that. resistance was indeed less than 10 ohms so it says proceed to next test that requires a 'BREAKOUT BOX' hmm well that's a $300 tool? wondering if anyone of yalls out there knows what I'm talking about as I'm not sure I do.. basically just wondering if there is any way to proceed with out a breakout box, or if anyone is familiar with a 'code 15' from the EEC -IV ? maybe the TFI was causing the problem, I'll include a pic of how badly it was corroded.. any insight is very much appreciated!!!  ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 1:36pm
| Have you run it since the new TFI? |
Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 8:48pm
|
ok an update.. so took her out on the 4th and.... GREAT SUCCESS!!! she ran perfectly, pulled some wake boarders/ girls on the tubes.. great time!!!!! fun to money ratio evening out now! thanks to everyone on these forums/ CCfan.com!! especially whoever has sig - 'if you're going through hell, keep going' lol. anyways.. wish i could end it here. but, she wouldn't fire up for a flush when i got er home.. clicking noise now.. here's what's been replaced/ fixed so far.. Main Battery Switch, TFI, both relays (when i bought it last year) way to test them w/ a multimeter?? cleaned all main grounds, new rotor cap & wires, new main 60A breaker.. I'll include a video maybe someone knows what to check next. but hey I'm close! at least the problem appeared on my driveway! Jon  ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 7:54am
|
Jon, That noise sure sounds like a start relay (solenoid) click.. You say you cleaned all the grounds. Did you clean the battery cable terminals and battery posts with a wire type terminal cleaner too? What's the condition of the battery and the type? Hopefully it's a starting and not a deep cycle. With the start relay engaged (trying to crank the engine) get a volt reading at the battery post, then the battery cable/post at the start relay from the battery and then at the battery cable/post at the start relay going to the starter. See if there's any voltage drop and report back. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 9:13am
|
I know the alternator belt is tight - right ? 14 volt or so out put - gota start with good/clean electricity. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 6:04pm
| The TFI is supposed to have that insulator goop on the back. |
Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 7:00pm
|
ya the TFI can get a ground through the goop? I did put a layer of the goop that came with the new one on before installing it.. and ya Waterdog i was getting 14+V at the battery terminals when the engine was running before i took er out on the 4th.. pbbrainard has me thinking though.. I'm still not sure how to keep a charge on my house and starter battery.. just put in a brand new deep cycle house battery under the helm, so connections there are solid. i must admit I was using/ switched to 'batt 2' the deep cycle to start and maintain a charge. that's bad? read somewhere it's a bad idea to switch batteries when engine is running? guy at the boat shop says to switch over to 1&2 combined when the engine is running to maintain a charge on both. puts the batteries in parallel right? thought with different amp hour ratings that was a bad idea? maybe a 'combiner' switch I've been reading about is the way to go? sheesh so much to learn. anyways I'll try what pb suggested tonight, maybe i have a bad solenoid. is what you suggested a way to determine if it's shot? "With the start relay engaged (trying to crank the engine) get a volt reading at the battery post, then the battery cable/post at the start relay from the battery and then at the battery cable/post at the start relay going to the starter. See if there's any voltage drop and report back." obviously the multi meter can't reach to batt neg post so i can use the engine block ground right? gosh such a newb. rekn this is what i need if it is indeed bad.. http://www.nautiqueparts.com/solenoidstarterrelay.aspx thanks!! Jon ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 8:51pm
|
Watching the volt meter and listening it sounds and looks like you have a serious drain on the battery when you hit the key or your battery has very little reserve. Have you tried to jump it just to make sure you have full voltage at time of start? It is possible to have fully charged batteries with a bad connection somewhere that is not allowing the Amps to flow when needed. |
Posted By: LjonSF
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 9:28pm
|
ya it does seem like a big voltage drain/ drop. I'll check all the connections soon and voltages when cranking as suggested & report what i find.. ------------- how to buy a boat: tell your sweetheart you're going to look at a boat. come home with a boat. |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: July-08-2016 at 9:29pm
Sadly, I have a degree in engineering, and still don't know diddly about electrical matters. What I do know is that I've had a Perko switch on my boat for 15 years. I put it on "All "(three batteries in my boat) whenever I am running the boat. I put it on "2" which controls the two non-starting batteries, when moored and running music. Never had a dead battery, never had failure to start. Funny thing, the only time I had to replace a battery is when the guys at the repair shop were blasting the stereo and ran the batteries to nothing. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
LjonSF wrote: