Print Page | Close Window

Propeller shaft coupler

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39159
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 3:52pm


Topic: Propeller shaft coupler
Posted By: Jminman
Subject: Propeller shaft coupler
Date Posted: June-30-2016 at 7:18pm
I removed the 4 bolts that hold the coupler onto the back of the drive but I cant free the coupler from my drive. Its a single taper shaft thats bent and im replacing it with a double taper shaft. Any suggestions how to make it simpler and keep me from buying 12 more costly tools?



Replies:
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-30-2016 at 8:06pm
You have two choices
1) if the shaft is junk and you aren't getting it straightened... Cut it
                                           or
2) use a deep well socket and 4 bolts or all thread and press it off like below. Either way you either have to drop your rudder or the strut to get the new one in.
I just did my '95s today took less than an hour to remove dropping the strut add an hour or more to drop the rudder. (depends on the year and gas tank configuration)
http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/bentshaft002-1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-30-2016 at 8:15pm
Justin,
I agree with Paul's #1 option. Cut it!!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-30-2016 at 8:29pm
Pete
I talked to the guy today in Cape Cod that some one posted a you tube on awhile back.
He will dye test, straighten and cut the face of the coupler if needed for about 1/2 the cost of a new one and said the turn around time is about 5 days after receiving the shaft and coupler.
I'm going to send him one of mine and see how it comes out.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 12:49pm
Over the years I have known Machine Shops that could straighten shafts, Some promised to be less than .001 true which is very good.   Usually they figure out it takes more time than they originally thought which takes the price up near the cost of a new shaft and they decide not to do it any longer. I would think Labor in cape code is very high like California.
I do think a good straighten is a 100% fix if you can find the shop that will do it.   Keep us posted on your results.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Over the years I have known Machine Shops that could straighten shafts, Some promised to be less than .001 true which is very good.   Usually they figure out it takes more time than they originally thought which takes the price up near the cost of a new shaft and they decide not to do it any longer. I would think Labor in cape code is very high like California.
I do think a good straighten is a 100% fix if you can find the shop that will do it.   Keep us posted on your results.

This guy prides himself on being able to make them like new. His over the phone estimate to me was tops 200 bucks and that included dye test and cutting the coupler face if needed.
I ordered a new shaft once it comes in ill pack the old one up and send it to be reparpired I'll let you know how it works out.
I figure the way I have been going through shafts it's not a bad idea to have a spare


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 4:54pm
I've always had second thoughts about shaft straightening especially if the bend is just aft of the strut say from a prop strike. Metal can only be bent so much before it breaks. Here's what I'm always afraid of.

Reids shaft



Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Too much HP for the old 1"? !! , maybe the boat hit somthing at one time and the shaft had been straightened. It doesn't take much to put stress in a shaft where the fracture starts. .


-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 5:06pm
Before installing a shaft, tap it with a ball pen hammer, if it rings true there are no cracks. If you tap it and it has a dull thud noise your shaft is cracked and should not be installed.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Before installing a shaft, tap it with a ball pen hammer, if it rings true there are no cracks. If you tap it and it has a dull thud noise your shaft is cracked and should not be installed.

Mark,
I'm going to disagree with this method. First, I highly doubt anyone could tell if there was a microscopic fracture from sound. Second, if the crack is large enough to detect by sound, I'd say the crack would also be visual. We aren't talking about a chunk of cast iron!! I would not advise anyone to try this method.

BTW, what would you do with all the "beauty marks" from pounding on a shaft with a ball peen?

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 7:06pm
It's called patina and rich yuppies pay big money for that look


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-01-2016 at 8:06pm
Pete, I don't recommend leaving any marks.
If you pull your crankshaft out of your engine and take it in for a re grind or polish guess what they do first before proceeding? They tap it with a ball pen to see if it is good or bad as far a cracks go.   For some reason if there is a crack it dulls the tap sound, if the metal is good with no cracks the steel will have a ring to it when you tap it.



Print Page | Close Window