correctcraft mustang 17 won't start
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39175
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 8:29am
Topic: correctcraft mustang 17 won't start
Posted By: garykocis
Subject: correctcraft mustang 17 won't start
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 12:39am
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Pulled 78' mustang 17 from storage and can't get it started. First time in 10+years that I've had difficulties. replaced batter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor cap kit (points, condenser). Engine will crank but doesn't start, and doesn't sound even close to starting. Not a fuel problem (see gas in carb). I haven't changed ignition coil. May try that tomorrow, but would need to be an auto-part purchase. Hope I can get a match at Advanced Auto. Otherwise another week to order from Nautique. Other ideas? What else would keep engine from starting? How can I tell if I am getting good spark? Thanks for any help//// Gary |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 8:34am
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Gary What volts are you getting to the coil? Sounds like you are just throwing parts at the problem without testing??? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: garykocis
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 11:10am
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Your comment is on target. I was OK replacing these items as they are quite old (25 years) and I felt like it was good to do some basic maintenance to refresh this parts. In addition, I don't have the know-how to troubleshoot the problem. I do have a volt meter so I can check the voltage at the coil as you suggest. Thank! |
Posted By: garykocis
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 2:00pm
| based on the suggestion to check coil.... I found write-up on checking resistance (inner, outer) and this seems reasonable with my ignition coil (2.8 and 8500 ohms). but, I can't measure any voltage at the coil. I checked with key in 'on' position but without trying to start the engine. not sure if that is the right approach.... there is 12.8 volts at the terminals at the rear of the engine. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 2:08pm
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I'm going to guess you either miss-adjusted or installed the points incorrectly or mixed up your firing order when you replaced the wires. Coils just don't go bad from sitting ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 5:53pm
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Post mortem advice for folks that don't play with engines a lot--do your parts replacements individually or one at a time. In between replacements just give the engine a start at least. After layup, no-start is common but best to stick to advice above and not go gangbusters rand replace everything. Start with firing order. Make sure distributor cap is not 180 degrees off by pulling number one spark plug, and distributor cap and make sure piston is close to top Dead center when rotor in distributor is pointing at #1 wire. If you can put your thumb over the open spark plug hole, when the piston is heading up on the compression stroke you'll feel the pressure on your thumb. Once you get to that point you simply check each wire in the direction the rotor is moving and verify it is in the correct order. Maybe you were already sure of that but it's a common mistake. Once that's all checked, maybe make sure your distributor points are opening to the correct gap with a feeler gauge--or better yet, hook up a dwell meter and verify the number of degrees the points are staying open. U will persevere. |
Posted By: garykocis
Date Posted: July-02-2016 at 8:47pm
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back to an early posting/question... "What volts are you getting to the coil? " I have a reading of 2.9 volts at either post on the coil. that is, either post to ground reads 2.9 volts. I also get 2.9 volt reading at the resistor. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 9:40am
Gary, That 2.9 is bad. When checking the volts to the coil, disconnect the - wire from the coil to the distributor and then with the ignition switch on, check between the + to the coil and the engine block. That will be the resisted volts and should be around 9. If you still get the low 2.9, see what to get on the resistor + from the ignition switch. That should be the nominal 12. If bad there, get a reading at the ignition switch itself booth on the I terminal (ignition feed) and the B terminal is the + feed. If you don't have the 12 at the switch, keep going all the way back to the battery. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
garykocis wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-03-2016 at 9:43am
What did you set the point gap to for the initial dwell? After you get the engine running, it's always best to go back with a dwell meter for fine tuning the dwell. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |