New Owner, Soft Spots vs Normal Wear
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39216
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 3:38pm
Topic: New Owner, Soft Spots vs Normal Wear
Posted By: BWalt302
Subject: New Owner, Soft Spots vs Normal Wear
Date Posted: July-05-2016 at 8:45pm
I recently aquired a 1995 Hydrodyne with 900 hours. The boat is in great condition! A little TLC and I had it running and have put 13 hours on it. Its solid. I do have a few soft spots around the drivers seat and observor seat. I checked the stringers with a screwdriver and it was solid, couldnt even get the screw driver out in the few areas where I tapped it in! I am thinking maybe normal wear and tear from heavy use areas where the floor is soft? Is this common?
One spot in the stringer on the drivers side back appears to have some rot around the blower port that the blower hose runs into, thats really the only bad spot I can find. How big of a problem is this? Am I looking at a complete stringer job? The floor is a lot softer in this area and the bracket that holds the floor panel is loose only on this side. Below are a few pics of the problem areas. I have read and searched and I think I may be ok for awhile, but am not 100% sure. The engine area has a metal frame attached around the stringers and all of those bolts are solid and tight.
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Replies:
Posted By: BWalt302
Date Posted: July-05-2016 at 9:04pm
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http://s277.photobucket.com/user/BWalt302/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160705_183436_zps45gwgx5p.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: July-05-2016 at 11:48pm
You are asking a question that is hard at best to answer. If you are seeing areas of rot, then it is nearly certain it is going to require a stringer job at some point. It also sounds like you jammed a screwdriver into the wood. I would recommend putting something on that to keep it from being a water intrusion location. After that it comes down to how much risk you are willing to take. It might last a couple more seasons & it might shift and screw up alignment next time out. I certainly can't say for sure. Based on your description with mostly solid stringers and what sounds like an engine frame, it should last a little while longer. I wouldn't push it, though. Plan on working on it soon.
------------- '92 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: BWalt302
Date Posted: July-05-2016 at 11:57pm
What do you mean alignment? Do you mean stringers separating from the hull? Should I keep an eye on the shaft? The shaft is center in the tunnel right now. Are there any other symptoms I should watch out for when taking it out? Thanks for the quick response.
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Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 12:38am
What is the pvc pipe in the picture?
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Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 2:57am
thats what i was thinking, It almost looks like its being used for exhaust?!
As stated, its a heck of an undertaking to decide to do stringers. you really have to buy the boat for the right price to make it worth it because you'll have a lot more time and money into it than it will ever be worth. But what boat isn't that true for? Localized patches can sure help to keep anything wood sealed up. If it truly is one area that is soft and not a large area. (and I'm talking like a 6 inch square) than you can hog out and fill that area and it will be just as strong but chances are that small area is a lot worse than it seems.
------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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Posted By: BWalt302
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 5:13am
Lol yes the PVC is exhaust, it works, it was like that when I got it. I paid 1200 for the boat with trailer, so I have a little to work with , someone broke a tracking fin off. I have done a fair share of glass work dealing with stand ups and fixed it right up. :) I have checked the stringers in every spot I can and that is the only bad area I can find.
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Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 7:00am
its not a regular thing to use PVC. Exhaust gasses are about as corrosive as it comes and the PVC does not like that environment. It can be prone to cracking, and if its starved of water for any period of time to cool it than it can melt. I'm not familiar with the exhaust routing on that boat but if its under the water line than you better keep a good eye on it if not change it soon.
------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 8:21am
BWalt302 wrote:
What do you mean alignment? Do you mean stringers separating from the hull? Should I keep an eye on the shaft? The shaft is center in the tunnel right now. Are there any other symptoms I should watch out for when taking it out? Thanks for the quick response. | Brandon, The shaft being centered is not an indication that the strut, shaft, log and engine are aligned. Considering the soft spots in the stringers, I highly recommend you check the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21279&title=shaft-strut-alignment-video" rel="nofollow - alignment before getting it out on the water.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: dwouncmd
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 10:06am
DayTony wrote:
its not a regular thing to use PVC. Exhaust gasses are about as corrosive as it comes and the PVC does not like that environment. It can be prone to cracking, and if its starved of water for any period of time to cool it than it can melt. I'm not familiar with the exhaust routing on that boat but if its under the water line than you better keep a good eye on it if not change it soon. |
With PVC under the water line, if it fails, you will probably sink the boat; it will be hard for any bilge pump, not to mention the dinky battery powered pumps most of us have (me included), to keep up with what is essentially one or two 3-4 inch diameter holes under the water line. If you plan to continue to running on the water, I strongly recommend that you make replacing the exhaust a priority.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6535&sort=&pagenum=2" rel="nofollow - 89 SN <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6567&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow">7
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 11:00am
dwouncmd wrote:
With PVC under the water line, if it fails, you will probably sink the boat; . |
BWalt302 wrote:
I paid 1200 for the boat with trailer, | It wouldn't be that bad of a loss!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: BWalt302
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 11:09am
Thanks for all of the helpful info, I had no idea about exhaust. Where can I get the proper hoses for a good price?
Ill check the stringers once more and alignment and see what I come up with. I really hope/think that that one spot is the only bad one.
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 12:16pm
Oh stop scaring the kid.
PVC was used almost exclusively by centurion on all their budget boats for a very long time. Good chance what he is looking at is factory from Hydrodyne
Even seen CC install 4" to 3" PVC reducers on a 454HO for a customer that wanted it to be on the quiet side for early morning runs.
That said, The PVC tubes do sound awful, like blue man group on meth. And less tolerant of being without water. And PVC burns pretty good.
Corrugated hoses with or without fiberglass mufflers (recommended) sound much better and I concur, less sketchy and more industry standard.
Regarding floor rot, cutting out the bad stuff should be a priority to get back to good wood, as it accelerates very fast. Coat the good raw wood now exposed, with epoxy. If your a good wood smith, the floor and the patch can be made with 45 degree bevels with a router, seams that overlap each other. , full coat of epoxy to seal edges, and if it truly is just a spot, you can halt its demise and be very solid for many years.
Keep your boat dry as possible with a quality cover
Motor mount lags solid and don't spin endlessly? good sign.
Can you turn the propshaft easlily by hand? If not the engine is misaligned, and after correcting, if your chasing the alignment every month, could be an indicator of things going soft.
Alignment is the engine precisely centered and linear with the propshaft. A few thousanths of angular misalignment at the transmission/propshaft flanges, can cause the boat to shake and stress the output shaft bearing and fatigue the propshaft...
Once set right, things go smooth as silk.
Welcome to boating with a better quality boat than most, you're still a one percenter. We all had to start somewhere, and we've all put time into boats that others would say are too far gone, much beyond yours, and made them suit our needs and economics for quite a spell, and applaud your enthusiasm and eagerness to learn from us.
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: BWalt302
Date Posted: July-06-2016 at 2:00pm
Thanks for the info, the boat is a PCM Gt-40 EFI - I wan to replace the exhaust, looked on natique parts and din't see much other than the soft hose coming off of the manifold. As far as spinning the prop, I can turn it with one finger and spin it and it spins a seconds by itsself before stopping, super easy to turn.
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