Coil over heating
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39238
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 1:43pm
Topic: Coil over heating
Posted By: robbied
Subject: Coil over heating
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 8:05am
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So I can currently take my 1982 SN 2001 out for about 30minutes before the coil overheats, swap for another coill and get anothe 30 minutes. This is with the resistor removed, With mallory 700 resistor 0.75-1.5 ohm in circuit the boat will not run properly and struggle to start and when started will eventually stall, boat starts fine with no resistor I have a mallory e spark ignition I bought a 1.5 ohm flame thrower coil which shouldnt need a resistor, it ran fine for 3o minutes then instantly cut out, this coil in now fried, a bit annoying as should be ok without a resistor. One thing i have noticed is the voltage gauge on the dash is reading about 12 volts when turned on, but about 15volts after running for 30 minutes or so is this correct? I have orderd another resistor thinking of putting 2 in parallel to half the resistance. but this should be required and is covering whatever the root cause is Any help pleeeeaaasee |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 10:01am
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Call Vince at Ski Dim. He is familiar with all combinations of EI. Do you have the power wire for EI connected straight to the 12V supply? If not, that could be why it chokes with resistor. Sounds like you need the correct coil & resistor combination. Possibly your voltage regulator is bad too. Mine runs at 13.5V. 2 resistors in parallel would be a hack, don;'t do that. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 10:14am
| Put the stock ballast resistor back in so coil only gets 9V and enjoy a trouble free summer. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 11:15am
What are the wires coming out of the distributor? This setup typically calls for a fully resisted coil side feed (.7 resistor + 1.5 coil, black wire off - side of coil) AND an unresisted 12V feed (red wire piggy backed on purple wire coming into resistor). |
robbied wrote:Posted By: john_33612
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 2:35pm
| this coil is no longer made but will not over heat no matter what voltage , watch ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mallory-Ignition-Promaster-Coil-29440-D7022-A2F6-292-/282064674172?hash=item41ac5d5d7c:g:i4sAAOSwnFZXWyB5&vxp=mtr |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 2:38pm
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I can tell you what's worked for me for a long time now.with a Mallory e spark. I have 3 wires RED- nominal 12 v from the positive post on the coil which is now fed from the upstream side of the ballast resistor GREEN- from the negative post on the coil BROWN- to engine ground (mine goes to intake manifold) No Ballast resistor, it's bypassed (wires on upstream and downstream terminals all hooked together on one terminal, nothing on the other.) And a Mallory 29219 coil which has a built in resistor. Mallory literature says this coil is good for this application and I've had good luck this way. Lots of hours with no issues. Only difference from Hollywood's description is an internally resisted coil and maybe he's color blind or something  Like SNobsessed said,I'd be a little concerned if you really have 15v though. KenO |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 2:45pm
| Well maybe the unit I just pulled out wasn't a Mallory? Didn't have a have a ground wire and then just black=green. My eyes are still good perhaps my lack of reading is the problem? Mallory seem to be wired like Pertonix, plus a ground jumper. Mallory green = Pertonix black. Now it seems more likely it was a Pertonix but definitely in a Mallory distributor. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:07pm
Key words here^^ You either need a resisted coil or an inline resistor (ballast resistor) Bottom line is pumping more voltage into a coil doesn't make you more spark. In a resisted coil the coil itself reduces the voltage, in a non-resisted coil you need to reduce the voltage before it gets to the coil. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:15pm
Eh, I looked up Ken's coil and it's only 1.4 ohms. Factory Prestolite coil is 1.5 and still uses a resistor. Now you tell me which coil is internally resisted or not... Bottom line is modules want a certain resistance and not all coils are built the same. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:37pm
| I was just going by him saying it's a resisted coil and as you say not all coils are the same. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:39pm
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Well, as compared to their 0.7 ohm coil it's got more internal resistance And.....it works The best description of an e spark is "it's funky looking" under the cap. |
Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:52pm
| Ok does anybody know what the purple wire that goes to the resistor from the voltage regulator us for? Does this sense the voltage as the voltage here is slightly lower than the rest, must be a drop from the dash. Would mean that it regulated higher if sense voltage was low, just an idea |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:52pm
Must be something about points that want 2+ ohms resistance. Prestolite coil weak AF if it needs a resistor in front. Seem to be plenty of claims of overheated stock coils after installing brand x EI module. I haven not personally used this PCM coil in any application. Probably just a rebranded Prestolite.   
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Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 3:53pm
| What resistance is the stock resistor? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 4:01pm
.7 - .8
It's your 12v from the key switch |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 4:09pm
EW GROSS. Looks like Johnny's boat had a Pertronix all along. It's in a box in the garage right now but I'll be sure to take it out of the box and put in the garbage when I get home. Had I known this we would have done the DUI swap LONG ago...  Sure doesn't look funky like this 
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Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 4:22pm
Ok but what does the regulator do with it internally? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 4:32pm
So not "from" but FOR. Purple is 12V out of your key switch feeding your carburetor choke, voltage regulator and resistor/coil. 
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Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 4:47pm
| Ok so which wire senses the voltage so as to limit overvoltage |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 4:54pm
| Have you done any actual testing yet to determine you are in fact getting 15 volts? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 6:41pm
Hey Hollywood On your way to the garbage you can ship it to me instead(kinda like that water pump you want Cambodia to ship to you. )Looks like you had a crappy Pete-tronics and didn't know it. Probably worked just fine. Got a few boats in the family and one of them has a Mallory that came with a Pete-tronics module in it. Figured we'd use it till it died, it's been a number of years and we're still using it It just keeps on going and going like the energizer bunny.. BTW I've always known a stock ballast resistor to be about 1.2 or 1.3 ohms, there are a couple threads here on CCF about that from quite a few years ago. I seem to remember an Echlin ICR23 cross referencing to a stock resistor KenO PS Hurry home |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 6:57pm
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Most of the boats I'm in still have resistors, I should take some measurements. I'll send you the module, just get me your address. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 9:55pm
Don't know if you're kidding but it's in your PM inbox. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2016 at 10:09pm
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Hi Hollywood Where'd you get that E spark picture? that rotor/shutter wheel looks especially "funky", an 8 cylinder one has 8 slots around the circumference, 6 cylinder has 6 , etc. That looks like 2 giant unequal sized slots and has me baffled  here's a picture of an 8 cylinder rotor/ shutter wheel. They have quite a few different versions depending on the application. Edit.......Google helped me find it listed as an e spark conversion for some Harley's. Never knew they made one,one more thing learned today
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Posted By: Lakeview
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 11:30am
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My Mallory e-spark module instructions specifically call for the red wire from the plug in to connect to the + terminal of the coil with the wire from the ballast resistor. AM I Missing something here-haven't installed it yet ?????????????? ------------- Lakeview 1992 Barefoot Nautique 1967 Barracuda SS 1967 Chris Craft Cavalier |
Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 1:43pm
| Mine was always wired to the ignition side of the coil, but reading the instructions it says to the cool so I moved it a couple of days ago and it seems fine either way. If anything it seems to run smoother, may be placebo though. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 1:53pm
Don't know what Mallory instructions you're reading since there are numerous versions out there, but the ones I have tell you that if using a specific Mallory coil (they give 3 different coil numbers) that you don't need a ballast resistor. The one I mentioned earlier is one of those numbers.It's a 29219 coil If you're not using one of those coils, then you should be using a resistor if you're following their instructions. Here is a link to one of the many sets of instructions http://www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/600/650/650-61002m.pdf" rel="nofollow - Mallory inst Read the first part starting with "important" and then pay special attention to exception #1. You might want to fix your question mark key too. It seems kinda sticky
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Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-17-2016 at 3:33am
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H everyone, an update on the boat. Again out yesterday This time with reaistor in place Had about 14V o. The supply to the Coil and had about 10.5v after the reaistor and at the coil. This actually rose to about 14.5v at the supply later and 11v at the coil. Still breaking down after 30-45minutes Measuring voltage at the resistor is also about 0.5volts lower than at the main breaker powered straight from the battery so the battery is at about 15v Could this be a voltage regulator issue, it's just in the past I had an issue with regulator and it totally gave up this seems to still kind of work. I also have done some reading and it could be the Mallory Esparza over heating? Please help some more :) suns out in England and it doesn't last for long. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-17-2016 at 5:52am
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If you don't have a reading of 13.5 to 13.9V at your battery the voltage regulator is not working properly. I don't know where your Voltage regulator is on your boat. All the modern boats have the voltage regulator inside the alternator, Some older models have a separate voltage regulator mounted external of the alternator. Above 13.9 you will start cooking the battery and other parts. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-17-2016 at 6:38am
http://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm" rel="nofollow - This says 14.5 is good! 14.7 is the max!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-17-2016 at 7:42am
| So potentially if I moved the purple wire to the point where the 15v was it might regulate at 14.5v and be ok? I will try it, have no issue changing the regulator (external) but I don't want to throw parts where not required. |
Posted By: robbied
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 3:46am
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Hi everyone, I was out yesterday, I have the supply voltage to the coil under control. Battery now at about 13.5v and coil is see around 9.5 volts which I believe is ok. (There was a small pot on the back of the regulator) Unfortunately the coil is still getting mega hot and starts to cut out after about 40 minutes, then limp home in idle. Any other ideas, i have access to another e-spark module to try but don't want to risk damaging it, now the voltage is under control i will give it a go. Is there anything else that would cause this hot condition failing? Distributor cap, main HT lead etc?? |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 4:31pm
| bump |