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Growl/Squeal on Decel

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39555
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 11:48am


Topic: Growl/Squeal on Decel
Posted By: RichK
Subject: Growl/Squeal on Decel
Date Posted: August-01-2016 at 12:00pm
Happy Monday!

1995 SNOB

We were out at the lake yesterday, and after the truck was parked and all were in the boat, we began our day. After exiting the 5 mph zone we took off to the first cove to cool off. It's been hot in California!

Anyway, as I slowed down, I got a "new" squeal. It was consistent on quick slow downs. I couldn't tell if the transmission spun a bearing or the strut bearing was toast. No other vibrations were present. We just swam for the day to do any further damage. After I got the boat out of the water I did see some significant wear/damage to the strut bearing. Looks like it is ever so slightly off center to the non-driver side.

I suspect it might be the strut bearing (I'd also think this is the cheapest path). I'm very mechanically inclined, and have replaced the strut bearing before. If I remember correctly, the prior one had the same wear pattern.

I've read and watched the alignment information a million times over the years; I'm still scared to do it. How much do folks charge to do it? Are there recommendations on where to go to get it done?



Replies:
Posted By: RichK
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 12:29pm
Well, I guess I jumped in to the alignment. First I did a shaft check with a dial indicator. I was just out of the limit at .003+" near the strut. The alignment at the engine seemed OK at about .002".

Since this is the second time the cutlass bearing was worn on the same side, I did order a new strut prior. Turns out the old strut was not OEM as it has six holes. After everything has been removed, I now suspect the old strut was installed slightly cocked side to side.

Getting the coupler off was a pain. One of the coupler set screws broke as the job began. So, I had to get out the MIG and weld a nut on several times. It kept breaking. Fortunately, just as I was getting low on threads it held. I'm sure glad I didn't have to drill it out. Several times I thought about cutting the prop shaft. I in fact did ever so lightly heat the coupler. But, I'm anal on preservation of parts.

We should probably add to the instructions to use the longest socket as possible. You lose space and opportunity as you go.   I got to the point I could not remove the socket from between the coupler. However I could move the socket around within the coupler space.   To continue, I was able to insert several small diameter washers into the coupler as the shaft moved rearward.   I taped them together as thick as possible with scotch tape. This did the trick. By the way, I don't know about other boats but I was running out of space between the coupler. I cut the log hose hoping I would get more, but that didn't help at all.

A slightly smaller socket diameter would have been better in my case as well. This is because one also needs to consider the woodruff key. My socket bound up a little on the key (I addressed this with the small diameter washers).   Also, I recommend squirting some PB Blaster on the the day before.

I was able to remove the shaft without removing the rudder. I did have to remove the strut.

The shaft does have a slight wear step at the front of the strut. It suppose it will be an emergency spare of sorts.   I did go ahead and purchase an A.R.E. this A.M.

For install and alignment. Shouldn't I mock install the strut loosely? Then, mount the coupler to the engine, I can let the strut find it's happy place? That should cut down on the alignment job, right?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 12:57pm
Rich,
You must have decided to get the ARE before you went through the hassle of getting the trans end coupling off! I know very well what a PITA removal of the coupling is and how much easier cutting the old shaft out is.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: RichK
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 1:34pm
That's certainly what I should have done, but I couldn't bring myself to it. Still all a bit leary of this alignment stuff.


Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 2:24pm
Strut will probably find it's "Happy place" with the hull not the shaft.


Posted By: RichK
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 12:46am
OK. Got my A.R.E today. Been playing with it, I have a few questions.

A) How are you folks holding the prop shaft to tighten the coupler nut?

B) I don't have enough space for my safety collar. Initially I didn't feel I had enough room to install prior to tightening the coupler nut, but now I see that even with the nut sort of tight, it wouldn't fit in the remaining space.   What should I do?

C) What are you using for wrenches on the rear motor mounts?

Thanks! With a little luck she might hit the water to putt around for a test drive.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 12:55am
Rich,
Two bolts through the coupling and then a flat bar on the bolts will hold the shaft when tightening the nut for the taper.
15/60 degree offset open ends work on the mounts but it's tight!!
I can't answer about the safety collar. I always had enough room on the ARE's I've installed.



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: RichK
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 11:39am
OK. Was able to work on the boat this weekend (and last) and took it for a quick spin. Installed the new strut last weekend. Did the alignment yesterday, and was able to get it well under .002" top to bottom and left to right. Had the machinist neighbor check my work to be sure. The passenger side adjuster was real easy to use while the driver side not so much - it's really a bear to turn.

Took the boat out without the engine cover, back seat, and rear floor. Set the drip. All seemed much smoother, still a very slight growl on a quick decel, but not the scream of before.   

My steering wheel is now about a quarter turn off, which tells me the old prop strut was indeed bent. Lock to lock I have 3.5 turns, and my center is at 1.75. That said I now have to rotate the steering wheel 0.25 turns to the right to go straight.

Regards,
Rich


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:21pm
Originally posted by RichK RichK wrote:

   All seemed much smoother, still a very slight growl on a quick decel, but not the scream of before.   
Regards,
Rich

I'm going to say the growl on a quick decel is normal. I've experienced it many times on many boats.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:32pm
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6436k38/=14fpy28" rel="nofollow - 2 piece shaft collar


Posted By: RichK
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 12:49pm
Thanks for all the help. It is appreciated!



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