99 SNOB blown fuse?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39804
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 4:25am
Topic: 99 SNOB blown fuse?
Posted By: TallTex
Subject: 99 SNOB blown fuse?
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 7:33pm
| Trouble shooting a battery/alternator/electrical issue with Ski Nautique, New battery has correct volts, but no current at the switch panel, nothing lights up or powers on when ignition button engaged? Removed screws to gain access to rear of panel to test with volt meter but no current present. Not even the large red hot lead on the ignition button switch which I assume provides power to the remainder. I assume this wire is "hot" at all times? Is there a fuse panel I cannot see? |
Replies:
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:09pm
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maybe someone with better knowledge of the wiring on the 99 will chime in..in the mean time however, best bet is to start testing from the battery forward for continuity of the wires and voltage. The pos side possibly goes to either the starter solenoid or 50a breaker (in earlier years they were at the rear of the motor). if you have voltage at each connection, move to the next one. In the older boats, there is an "always hot" feed to one side of the ignition breaker switch at the panel. When switched on, it then passes power to the rest of the system. I can't say for sure, but if there was a fuse box, it would be post ignition breaker to isolate the rest of the components (bilge, blower, radio, etc...) btw, are you testing amps (current) or voltage? voltage would be a better test. You would need the device to be operating to test current. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:12pm
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don't forget about testing grounds as well. More often than not, power issues are ground related. Verify you have good ground on the engine and up under the dash. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: dsquad13
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:17pm
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i am also having this problem with my 89 SN. battery is good(had it tested, same with alternator) but when everything is hooked up there is no power(lights, blower etc. don't work) ------------- dippin' hip, and throwin' walls |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:31pm
Drew, What did you find with the VOM? How far did you get from the battery before you lost power? http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39769&KW=&PID=513419&title=battery-problem#513419" rel="nofollow - Here's your original post on the same problem. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
dsquad13 wrote:Posted By: dsquad13
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:34pm
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so far i haven't been able to do anything because i keep it at my lake place which is a few hours away. battery has 12.6 volts and when tested under load(at napa) checked out great. ------------- dippin' hip, and throwin' walls |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:42pm
Get a cheap one and then keep it at home. I think HF has them for less than $20! I always have a VOM handy. When moved up here, I ended up with 4. from one at home, one in the truck, one at work (the good one) and the one at the lake!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dsquad13
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 8:53pm
my bad....i meant i keep my boat at the lake place, so i haven't been able to do any tinkering!  ------------- dippin' hip, and throwin' walls |
Posted By: TallTex
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 9:00pm
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there is an "always hot" feed to one side of the ignition breaker switch at the panel Yes sir, this is what I assumed, but I have no current at this location. Using a digital volt meter/multi meter. On a 99 battery is in floor next to helm, under observer seat. Batt red is hot at rear of engine on large side Starter solenoid & at one side of 50a circuit breaker. Circuit breaker is not pop out as I tried reset it is in so I checked all + and - leads, cleaned, reattached. Some location is preventing current to to hot side of ignition breaker switch on dash... not sure where to look. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 9:06pm
This may be a silly question but you have the power into the breaker, you say it wasn't popped but did you check if you had power on the load side of the breaker? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TallTex
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 9:32pm
| I thought not when I checked before, but will check again. Can the 50a Circuit breaker go bad? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 10:11pm
yes they can. Breakers used in small boat marine electrics are not the best quality. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: August-29-2016 at 11:01pm
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not to be petty or insulting...you are testing voltage not current. They are not the same thing (which is also different from continuity). Think of Voltage like water pressure (always there), amp (current) is the flow once the faucet is open. Essentially you want to see ~12.6v at each of your testing sites. The VOM is completing the circuit back to the battery (neg). The quick and easy test of the breaker is to check it's continuity, but realistically no different than what Pete said by measuring voltage on the load side of the breaker. Checking continuity is extremely helpful when you don't know where the other end of a wire is or to see if there is a break in said wire without the need of a battery being connected. It's also used to check fuses to make sure they haven't blown. Where are you attaching your negative lead of the VOM, Engine Block or battery? ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TallTex
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 9:10am
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I understand, Thank you for the clarification. I correct folks mis-use of legal & business terms that have distinct definitions in my jurisdiction all of the time. (a "Company" is not a "Corporation") I'm a fair DIY but no electrician. There is only voltage on one side of 50amp circuit breaker. There is no voltage at the ignition breaker switch. Anyone have verified good part # for circuit breaker or starter relay or ignition breaker switch? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 9:15am
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Monty, http://www.skidim.com/CIRCUIT-BREAKER-50-AMP/productinfo/R153006B/" rel="nofollow - Does this look like the bad breaker? If not, give Skidim a call. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 11:25am
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Sorry I'm coming on to this late, but just read the whole thread. I agree, it does indeed sound like your 50A breaker is the problem. You're right that the "always hot" feed to the dash should always be hot. But voltage or current (I'll just say "juice") does have to pass through that breaker. It's not coming direct from the battery. Tim's diagram: 
|
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 12:35pm
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Just an additional point...testing on the load side of the breaker is different than testing the "hot" pin of the ignition switch. We have to include the wire as a possible problem or even the wiring harness (which there may be one between the breaker and ig switch). If you test the load side pin of the breaker, you can rule in/out the breaker itself. If you just test the ig switch it could be the breaker, harness, wire, etc.... That's ideally where the continuity test comes into play. One lead on each side of breaker, if you have continuity, breaker is probably good. then one lead on the load side of the breaker, other lead at the hot side of the ig breaker will tell you if you have a break in the wire between those two points. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: dsquad13
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 1:08pm
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where can these 50A breakers be purchased? ------------- dippin' hip, and throwin' walls |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 1:12pm
------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-30-2016 at 2:41pm
Thanks. Evidently Monty wasn't paying attention!   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TallTex
Date Posted: August-31-2016 at 2:35pm
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Yes, I saw the reply, thanks but that is another user asking where to buy not me. No time to order as I needed it Monday so I had to source locally. Stealership here wants $108 US for their OEM part, but when I asked what name is on the back (Mine says Texas Instruments) it was some other party's part. For now I have a 50 amp auto parts store circuit breaker as a "make do" until I get one in from amazon $38 or ebay $35. Blue Sea Systems, # 2142 is the brand of one I ordered. FYI: My circuit breaker never tripped, but left me stranded twice unable to start then system would work again, so intermittent until it gave up. Thanks again for pointing me to the problem. |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: August-31-2016 at 5:02pm
Glad to see the breaker was the problem in the end. Happy boating this weekend  ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-31-2016 at 6:01pm
|
Monty, Yes, thanks for getting back to us confirming what the problem was. It's always a pleasure to find out the CCfan members we able to help. There are some who come on site asking for help and then we never hear back from them ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TallTex
Date Posted: September-05-2016 at 12:08am
|
Looking at diagram you posted and tracing it to locate Ballast Resistor, I do not think there is one on a 99 SN. Where is it normally located? Just want to clarify. In review of other info on the Prestolite breakerless inductive discharge BID, distributor sates its self contained solid state module with a current regulation at 4.5amps so need for ballast resistor is none. Prestolite BID can operate with any standard coil, but a coil with low primary resistance is recommended for optimum performance. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-05-2016 at 9:48pm
| By 99, they were probably done with the ballast resister. It really depends on the details of your engine. |
Posted By: TallTex
Date Posted: September-05-2016 at 10:22pm
| I believe so. Thanks |