Shift knob removal resulted in stripped shifter
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39846
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 1:43pm
Topic: Shift knob removal resulted in stripped shifter
Posted By: planejob
Subject: Shift knob removal resulted in stripped shifter
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 11:37am
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I http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39651&KW=&title=new-to-me-1999-sport-nautique" rel="nofollow - purchased my 1999 SportN a few weeks ago and dove right in... err backed it right in? Anyway, I bought it knowing that there were a few issues like the RWP being seized and in the course of making that repair uncovered a few other issues like the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39730&KW=&title=no-start-and-no-water-strainer" rel="nofollow - internally corroded battery cable/terminal and the lack of a raw water strainer. I thought I had it resuscitated and backed it down the boat ramp, only to end up http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39790&KW=&title=sea-trials-fail-1999-sport-nautique" rel="nofollow - spending the morning alone, relaxing quietly in the middle of the lake. I'm in the process of rebuilding my carb, well not really, I'm in the process of drinking coffee and reading this forum and shortly after the coffee I'll hopefully be motivated enough to open the garage. So, I decided to refinish my shift knob. I unscrewed the knob and as it screwed off it took all of the aluminum threads with it from the shift lever. The steel knob insert is fine. I suppose the dis-similar metals in a marine environment just didn't get along so well after 17 years. I'm considering running a die down the threadless nub that is still there, in 1/4-20. and then getting a 1/4-20 to 3/8 adapter so I can use my original shift knob. I don't want to drop 150 bucks on a shifter. Do any of you have experience with this and am I overlooking a more readily available solution? |
Replies:
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 11:54am
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That's odd. Mine was aluminum insert in the knob and steel handle. Get the handle off and it can be repaired. Either by welding up and recutting the thread or replacing the threaded portion. Pics would be helpful ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: planejob
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 1:15pm
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Duane in Indy wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 1:47pm
Yes, The typical Morse handle is a zinc die casting. Not the greatest for welding plus you will scorch to chrome a ways! Duane, Whos control do you have with a steel handle? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: September-03-2016 at 5:05pm
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My old boat had that issue years ago. Not seeing a quick fix to do right I used JB WELD, the original not the JB Quick. The Knob was still fixed in place when I sold it 3 years ago. Not the best way but it sure did get me back on the water. Give it 24 hours to cure and tape under the knob when you install it. The JB will run for hours as it cures so use the tape to hold it all in the knob as it cures.. |