Too much grinding
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39970
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 11:56am
Topic: Too much grinding
Posted By: ThreeG
Subject: Too much grinding
Date Posted: September-24-2016 at 9:26pm
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Hey Guys, New member here with my first post. I have been trolling this site for years and love it. You guys have given me the info and confidence to tackle my first nautique resto and so far it has been a good experience....until today. The boat is a 1980 ski and I am mid stringer replacement. After removing the stringers I noticed the matt layer under the stringers was delaminated. I started grinding it back to find solid glass around the pylon base and it seems there is no solid layer. Pics will be more descriptive. My question is should i remove this layer? Or just grind back the bilge to allow for bonding the new stringers?   
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2016 at 11:09am
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Geoff, I would suggest grinding as much of the added layer of glass off that's disbonded as possible especially where you will be glassing in the new stringers. Welcome to posting and not trolling!  Keep the pictures coming and informing us of your progress. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ThreeG
Date Posted: September-25-2016 at 1:44pm
| Thanks for the reply, Sounds good. The layer(s) I'm removing seems to go under the ski pylon, Is the pylon bonded to this or the main hull structure? I would rather not remove it as it is my datum for my engine location. What should I expect around the bosses for the fins and drain etc? The layer is also quite thick, like 1cm thick. How thick will a layer of mat then bi axial finish out at when it comes time to replace it? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: September-25-2016 at 4:36pm
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You may be grinding a previous repair? ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: ThreeG
Date Posted: September-25-2016 at 7:51pm
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Glass seeker, I don't think it's a repair as the factory gel coat in the bilge was untouched. I looks to me it is the glass used when the stringers were installed and bonded to the hull. The worst part is front starboard side, I could pull it up by hand. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-26-2016 at 11:03am
| My 80 Martinique had quite a bit of this too. You'll have to stop somwhere else you'll grind right through the hull. Like Pete said, I got it as clean as possible under and near the stringers and had to live with this in other areas. |
Posted By: ThreeG
Date Posted: September-30-2016 at 10:09pm
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So, Basically from behind the rear fin on is still bonded to the main hull. All else has been removed. The pylon base will be re bonded after stringers and such are finished. Man what a can of worms. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-03-2016 at 11:09am
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Exactly how many layers are you peeling up? Around the pylon socket there are additional layers other than the original hull build up. We peeled up 1 complete layer of roving on the starboard side. center of bilge to chine. |
Posted By: ThreeG
Date Posted: October-04-2016 at 2:12am
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Hollywood, Here are some pics of the centre layer removed with the pylon base attached. None of this was attached to the main base of the hull. Under it was quite a bit of water. Sorry for pic rotation....I'm new.   
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Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: October-04-2016 at 6:59am
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Wow...... So when you reinstall that cup and glass it back in. Your first layer of glass should be smaller in area than the next layer. You have a Prime example of a backerds lay up schedule. One HUGE layer on the bottom and a dozen more on top. The bottom layer became disbonded so the WHOLE thing did. By doing the opposite lay up schedule overlapping each consecutive layer by 1/2" or so you'll have 12 layers of glass bonded to the hull instead of just one big one. Keep up the good work! ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-04-2016 at 10:53am
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Foot's got it. every layer is 1/2 larger than the previous layer. start with 0* (zero) +45, 90*, -45* 0* and so on. 12 Ply lay up X 3 Qusi-isotropic laminate (strong in all directions) ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-04-2016 at 11:23am
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I have a very similar chunk in my garage, but it's just the pylon socket with a mountain of glass around it. The rest of the lower bilge came up in separate pieces after I ground through it in some spots. We all know the proper way to do it now but who knows what was happening at the factory in 1980. Even in 2010 I watched an operator glass in the pylon socket of a SN200, the layup wasn't at all precise... As I said before, an entire hull layer of roving came up, along with my pylon socket. It didn't matter if the socket was glass down backwards. The hull delaminated along with everything on top of it. BJ also peeled up an entire layer inside his 81 Barefoot. |