getting ready to winterize
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39988
Printed Date: June-22-2024 at 10:57pm
Topic: getting ready to winterize
Posted By: flyweed
Subject: getting ready to winterize
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 2:33pm
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Hey all, Ok, I picked up some ATF fluid, and am getting ready to winterize my 351 HO for the first time since I've owned it. I took some photos, and want to be sure these are ALL the drain holes I need to drain from. Also, a photo of the ATF fluid I have..and wondering if this is the correct fluid to use in my transmiision. 1. driver side of engine block  2. front of engine, under waterpump:  3. passenger side of engine (towards rear of block)  4. (2) of these, one on each exhaust manifold:  5. Here is the Transmission Fluid I've picked up (is it ok??)  ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Replies:
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 2:53pm
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How bout the drain plug on the trans cooler?? Any RWP strainer?? ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 2:58pm
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yep, there is a strainer back at the rear of the engine just before my Timmy T. Do I unscrew that and drain? Where is the water drain plug on the Trans cooler?? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 3:02pm
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My trans cooler drain is on the bottom rear. Unscrew strainer and drain. Also RWP says to loosen rear cover and drain, it is usually stamped on the cover. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 3:06pm
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Ok, sounds good. I'll add those to the list! Also, is this the proper ATF fluid to use for refill of the transmission?? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: relake
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 3:40pm
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The fluid type should be on your transmission.....I've read multiple places not to use Synthetic, mine takes Dex III, which is no longer available, so I use this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CAS5/D/N0471.oap?ck=Search_N0471_-1_-1&pt=N0471&ppt=C0207" rel="nofollow - Dex/Merc ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8310" rel="nofollow - '97 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 3:41pm
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Not the proper ATF. Skip synthetic and use conventional. Pull the lower hose on the trans cooler, don't mess with the drain plug. The brass is too fragile. Don't forget to blow out any heater or shower cores as well. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 3:42pm
I suggest just pulling the low hose off the trans cooler and not using the drain plug. The trans cooler is a rather thin copper and I've seen plenty of the drains damage the coolers shell. If you do want to use the drain, you MUST double wrench. it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Duane in Indy wrote:Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 3:54pm
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On those drain plugs, be sure and probe the holes while open to ensure rust deposits are not obstructing the drain process. As mentioned, do not use synthetic in the trans. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:16pm
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Thanks guys...Ok, I'll go get the conventional dex/merc III and take back the VI (My trans. has Dex III on the tag). Yep, I knew about probing the water outlets, did that on my previous boat is well. I found the drain plug on the trans. cooler, but it would be a PITA to get undone..MUCH easier to loosen the lower hose. :) I'll be doing the oil, filter change, trans fluid change, and engine fogging today yet, and then tomorrow, drain the water, and add anti-freeze. I did find some -75F RV antifreeze locally..so I am going to use that, probably better than the -50F stuff, but not quite as good as the -100F stuff, but I can't get the -100F stuff local. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:23pm
| Sounds like it gets real cold where you're at... |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:26pm
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Just make sure the Pink is not Ethanol based, you want the Gly....... something based which is usually the 75 deg stuff Edit: Yes HW the Propylene Glycol ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:36pm
| you mean propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol? |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:37pm
Hollywood....do I detect some sarcasm???  Also, is it 3 quarts atf for the trans? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:41pm
Here's the Anti-Freeze I intend to use. I read the MSDS on it, and it says it's Propylene Glycol. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 4:45pm
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when you drain the strainer, make sure you don't lose the "O" ring. Like the others, I just pull the hoses from the cooler as well. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 5:10pm
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I find it easier just to park the boat in a heated garage
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 5:10pm
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put it in what you take out, assuming you're at the full mark to start with on the trans. i doubt you'll get more than 2 qts |
Posted By: relake
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 5:10pm
Mine is 2qts, but check local listings on yours ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8310" rel="nofollow - '97 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 6:20pm
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Flyweed, Someone had to do it, but thanks for bringing me down by talking about winterizing the boats. I think you just might be the first one for this season.  Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 8:05pm
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yeah..I hate to be the first..but with mine and my wife's work schedules, and the temps in our area hitting the 50's at night, we just aren't going to be out on the water any more this year. So, putting her to bed for now. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: nobrainsd
Date Posted: September-28-2016 at 10:03pm
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All of you who have to winterize your boats have my sympathy. We ride year round here in San Diego and I haven't even looked at my full suit yet. Stay warm out there! Just another crowded day on Mission Bay. 
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Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-06-2016 at 6:35pm
Just picked some of this up at Menards. Propylene glycol indeed...Seems like all of the other ones I ran across were ethanol based. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 10:02am
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On sale at Menards around here for $3.30 gal thru Saturday, cheapest I have seen. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 11:37am
Yep. That's what I paid...gotta love Menards! And btw they also have VR1 20w50 on sale at Menards for $4.44 a quart (after rebate). ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 12:33pm
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That's pretty good on the VR1. I just picked up a 5 quart jug at O'Reilly's for a bit over $24.00, not bad. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 2:32pm
| I have always used the -50 ethanol based (iguess) is there a problem with it ? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 2:51pm
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Auto antifreeze works good, but it needs to be collected at spring startup. RV antifreeze can just go into the ground water without issue. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 2:53pm
ethanol or Ethylene? ------------- 96 Super Sport Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 3:01pm
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The 50 deg stuff has ethanol, besides being flammable read that it is not healthy for the internals and can leave some nasty white clumps behind. The 75 deg stuff is not ethanol and not known to be harmful. Worth the extra Buck or Two a gallon IMO. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 4:06pm
An additional 72 cents in my case. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 5:12pm
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do you guys take your impeller out for the winter?? or take it out and replace in the spring? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 5:48pm
I leave mine in and replace every spring. Cheap insurance. ------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 6:21pm
there is a lot of discussion on this specific question. Lots of people say to replace, some replace every x hours, some do every two seasons, I think I read once that Pete has one that has lasted something like 50+ years  I use to take the entire RWP housing into the house during the winter, but then I left it in the house when I trailered the boat from WI to IL and had to have it shipped...so I take the impeller out after I winterize, inspect it, if it has any wear I toss it and wait until spring to put the new one in. If it seems decent, I will use it the next season but leave it out during the winter. I also keep 2-3 spares on board and watch my temp gauge like a hawk. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 6:36pm
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some do nothing some take it out & reuse some change it automatically |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 6:39pm
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I think I'll pull it out, at the very least, and inspect it..and either replace it in the spring, or if it looks good, I'll put it back in. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 6:45pm
| Since you just purchased the boat it makes sense to change it and keep the old one as a spare. You could inspect the old one but it may pass your inspection and still have hundreds of hours on it. |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 6:55pm
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I have a winterizing question; I only have 6 hours on my motor since the last oil change. Am I good to leave it in there over the winter? It still looks brand new. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 7:09pm
| I sure would leave it |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 7:18pm
I sure would agree with Hollywood, although somebody will probably come along and think otherwise. If you have any problems in the spring, it won't be because of your 6 hour old oil |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 7:20pm
That's kinda what I was thinking. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 7:27pm
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Hey bb12 How did your issue turn out with the running temperatures, I just looked at your old thread and it kinda leaves ya"hangin It said you were going to water test it after the new parts were all on and i don't think I saw any results of that. Just curious |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 7:46pm
Yes, I need to update that thread, sorry. I took HW's advice and ran a jumper ground from the temp gauge to the neg terminal on the battery. Installed the new 143 PCM tstat too...Fired it up on the hose and it held right at 150! Also gained about 3 volts on the voltmeter (showed 12 now- was previously 9). I think my issue all along was the notorious low voltage/bad ground. Planning on running a new ground and hot to the dash this winter. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 7:54pm
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Good to hear Much better outcome than head gaskets 
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 8:39pm
| Ken would have pulled the heads just to confirm the gaskets were good. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 9:17pm
I would have left the heads where they were and pulled the block out from underneath By the way Hollywood, I drained a 351 today, so a little different than a 302 but close as far as cooling capacity. Just like Wakeslayer did, I pulled the port plug and let it drain, then I pulled the stbd plug and collected a little under a quart and a half. So that's roughly what's left when you only drain one side. Of course there is still a little left in the stbd side too since the plug is up higher due to the engine angle (on the 15 degree mounted engines) It was a nice day, so I put the plugs back in and went for a ride |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-07-2016 at 11:48pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17841&KW=impeller&PID=217450&title=rwp-span-classhighlightimpeller-spans#217450" rel="nofollow - Not 50 but 25!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-08-2016 at 9:37am
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Time for a public service announcement here With all this RV antifreeze talk about -50 degree and -75 degree and -100 degree protection, I hope people realize that those numbers are the burst point and that the stuff freezes solid well before those temperatures, it just doesn't expand enough to cause pipes to burst till it gets down to that rated temp. If you have a freezer that you can get down to zero degrees, put some in a closed container and leave it for a day or so. You might be surprised how hard that container is frozen, but it also didn't expand and burst. Dilute that pink stuff with some water and do the same thing and the results will vary depending on how much water is mixed in. This doesn't mean it's not safe to use, just wanted to point out that it freezes and that's normal |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-08-2016 at 1:25pm
I used to do that. Then in thinking about it, I had a spare so I could do a change and not lose a day on the water, but my spare was x years old, with possibly fatigued rubber, with possibly minor cracks at the flex points ..... didn't make sense any more. I just buy a new one every 2 years, toss the old one and put my new spare in. That way even the spare is no more than 2 years off the warehouse shelf. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-08-2016 at 1:30pm
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Ken, I'm definitely aware of how the pink stuff gets slushy and then hard at surprisingly high temps, of course depending on how much water it's mixed with. As has been discussed in so many winterizing threads, it's the people that don't drain their block/risers/coolers/heaters/strainer before adding antifreeze that get into trouble. I do confess to using the pink -50 stuff multiple times, based on reading here may change that. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-08-2016 at 1:39pm
| http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37531&PN=1&title=antifreeze" rel="nofollow - Antifreeze?? |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-08-2016 at 1:51pm
Ah yes, I remember that thread. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: October-09-2016 at 10:11am
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I winterized mine this past week. I didn't drain the trans cooler after sucking antifreeze through the motor with the rwp. Should I? I know it has antifreeze in it now and I drained the motor of all the antifreeze after I got done putting it in just to be safe. I still need to replace the tranny fluid. I have that on my to do list. BTW, now that it's winterized, it is supposed to be 86 degrees next weekend here in Arkansas.  ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-09-2016 at 10:21am
Well, let's think about this, you're gonna be right there by the cooler when you're changing your transmission fluid so how hard can it be to pull the bottom hose off of the cooler and let it drain? |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-09-2016 at 11:59am
Yeah, I would- takes all of about 30 seconds to unhook the hose from the trans cooler and drain. By the way, noticed you are in Rogers. Is Beaver your home lake? We go to Table Rock a couple times a summer. Love it down there! ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: October-09-2016 at 5:25pm
Yes, we're normally on Beaver but occasionally hit up table rock. I love fishing on table rock before it's warm enough to wakeboard. That's a Great Lake!! ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-09-2016 at 8:06pm
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Couldn't get my rear manifold plugs to budge so I dropped the tongue and sucked the water out the front. The bottom of the brass plugs look dry, but I'm wondering how much water I should've sucked out? Want to make sure I got it all. I'm guessing I got about a half gallon or so, both sides combined. Sound about right? ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-09-2016 at 9:16pm
I think you got most of it but I'd pour some antifreeze in to mix with anything that's left and do the same lowering and sucking it out routine again. I usually catch what comes out because it's got rust flakes and is pretty dirty and I never measured it, but I'd say about 3/4 of a gallon total from both sides combined is normal for me. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-10-2016 at 10:50am
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bb12, you have a flat engine so draining/sucking from the front is even easier. We used to do the same on a tilted engine, nose down, suck, back fill with a/f, then suck again. Above, depending on how you plumbed your suck up method that water in the tranny cooler is somewhere in the block or out the exhaust by now and replaced with a/f. Draining the cooler now won't do any good. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-10-2016 at 11:27am
Assuming you're responding about rolleronariver's question about whether he should drain the cooler, he did the suck up method then drained the engine in his words "just to be safe" so it seems he wants to drain the cooler for the same reason. So the good that it will do is, he'll know there's nothing in it If he's gonna drain some of the antifreeze, he might as well drain all of it.He did say he drained the engine, didn't see any mention of draining the exhaust manifolds afterwards so maybe there is A/F still in them too and maybe he wants to drain them again too. By the way, Good Monday mornin' to ya Hollywood |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-10-2016 at 11:36am
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Ah, I get it now. I totally agree, drain it all... Good morning Ken. it's coffee refill time. |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-10-2016 at 11:51am
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Sounds good, thanks Ken and HW. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 12:37am
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Ok guys, winterized my 93 today, and have a couple questions. 1. on the raw water strainer...how the HELL do you get the screw off "cup" off and back on? mine did come off with some effort, but it felt like the threads were super sticky, and I can't be sure I got it screwed back on tight enough to seat the rubber O ring. Can I put some grease or something on the plastic threads to make removal and re-installation easier? 2. I unbolted the raw water pump and pulled the back off to inspect the impeller. It looked like new. BUT...I can't remember what way is up and what way is down on the pump to bolt it back onto the engine. Any help would be great. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:46am
I used a bit of petroleum jelly on both sets of threads. Works great. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 9:39am
go to this link and look at Hollywood's post complete with graphics and you'll get it right http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19773&title=rwp-impeller-direction" rel="nofollow - this link |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 12:58pm
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Thanks..that helps alot. One other question. I topped off my gas tank, and I thought when the tank got full I'd see gas come out the little chrome "vent" next to the fill port. BUT, when I got full gas would gurgle and spit out the FILL port where I had the gas nozzle insert.... Any thoughts? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:03pm
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Plugged vent? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:12pm
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how do I check the vent..just blow into it? or should I remove seat back, and disconnect vent hose?? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:20pm
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Huh, that happened to me every time i fill up, but never seem to have venting issues. I just chalked it up to the fill hose filling quicker than the shutoff can react. I started using the lever release at the lowest setting and when i think im close, finish manually. Plus the fill hose inserts into the tank lower than the vent. Another explaination is that there should be a "loop" or vertical bend to help prevent water from entering the tank via the vent, and if that bend is above the fill hole, it would be difficult for the gas to breach that bend. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:26pm
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I have to fill carefully too, go slow as it gets full, or it kicks back out the fuel fill. You really don't want to fill to the point where it flows out your vent. Yes, you definitely want to verify that your vent is working, I guess I'd start by blowing some air in the fill and seeing if you feel air coming out the vent, easier than pulling things apart to look. I asssume you are worried that your tank needs to be full to the brim for winter storage. Lots of differing opinions on this, and do a search and you'll find the comments easily. I'm not a believer in it, just stabilize the gas and leave it, I'd rather be adding fresh gas in the spring to a tank left fairly empty rather than having a full tank of stale old gas to burn off in the spring. Like I said, lots of opinions both ways on this, but I'd say it's the least important of all your winterizing decisions. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 2:33pm
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Our '92 would overflow if we used the lock on the gas pump handle. Had to fill it slowly to avoid this. Vent worked fine as you could feel air being pushed out as we filled the tank. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 2:46pm
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yep, I just confirmed my vent is free as well. I removed gas cap, and blew into it, and air easily came rushing out through the vent. Guess I'll just have to fill slower. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:10pm
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petroleum jelly on the thread for the raw water strainer and ALL is well. Went on super easy. Now, I found something that concerns me. Upon sucking out and changing the transmission fluid. It was pink, but milky pink. I've read enough already to know that water is mixed in there. (with my hand pump, I only managed to suck out about 1 quart). and replaced with fresh. my hand pump was bottoming out, so I assume I need a smaller diameter hose to get down to get more than 1 quart out. Also, my Bilge floor is clean and dry, no water, no oil, no transmission fluid. Can I assume I should order a new Trans. Cooler and replace the old one (that is original-1993) ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:32pm
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I would flush it a 3-4 times first (running between each flush with water directly going to RWP) and then run it briefly to see if the problem persists before ordering a new cooler. The water post cooler just keeps from reintroducing more water IF the cooler is the problem. I would want to make sure I get all the milk out first so it is definitive the cooler is the problem and not just remixing of the old stuff. Though, this method would get expensive with all the wasted ATF if the cooler ends up being the problem. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:38pm
Before ordering a new trans cooler, I suggest pressure testing it first. You don't want to become just another one of those "parts changers"! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:42pm
| Cooler is probably fine. If the bilge has ever been flooded water can enter the transmission. It'll stay there too because it's more dense than ATF. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:48pm
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Yes, seems more likely it just got in through the breather at some point. Or, could be condensation if the oil never was changed, doesn't take much water to milk up the oil. Do one change, run it, and see what it looks like then. If it looks better I'd just do one additional change and call it good. You can't get all the oil out anyway so may not be pristine looking, but will be ok. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:52pm
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so, since the engine is completely winterized now, do I "un-winterize" it now and start the engine up, and work on this..or drain and change out the transmission again, and let it go until spring? How does one pressure test the cooler? I don't really have the tools necessary to do a pressure test (I don't think) ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:56pm
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pressure testing isn't always as painful or expensive as one might think... a 5 dollar harbor freight bicycle pump and a couple rubber plugs drilled and filled with lag bolt and hose clamps can often make things happen. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 6:38pm
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Dan, Running the engine to circulate the ATF would be a good idea but don't drain the engine.. I'd pull the belt off the RWP and start the engine for about a minute then change the ATF. If you still get pink, do it again. You don't want water sitting in the trans over winter. I didn't mean to scare you about pressure testing the trans cooler! But, as Joe mentioned it's not a major project. I prefer to pressurize the oil side because of the threaded fittings. A trip to the auto supply will get you fixed up with a couple fittings to plug one end and get some compressed air in the other. After you pump it up with air (about 20 PSI) stick it in a bucket of water and look for bubbles. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 8:26pm
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I use a 1/8 copper tube to get all the way down to bottom on tranny. There is a small hole that the dipstick goes into, so a normal hose won't fit. Be careful not to drop the tube in there! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-11-2016 at 10:44pm
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+100 Use a long tube than can't drop to the bottom! |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 4:43pm
here is a pic of after I did the original trans fluid change yesterday. Today, I did as suggest. unhooked the RWP and ran the engine today for 1 minute...then I drained what I had put in yesterday. Here is the photo of what I drained today after the 1 minute run. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 4:52pm
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Yesterday was yesterday. Today is today. Fluid looks fine |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 4:57pm
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I wish I had tomorrows newspaper ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 5:00pm
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LOL..Ok Ok, After re-reading my last post..I realize that was a bit confusing! Anyway, the fluid in the above pic was after running my engine for 1 minute, with no water pump running. should I change it out again, or ???? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 6:41pm
| I'd run it longer than a minute between flushes. |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 7:41pm
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should I flush another time and add new fluid..or call it good? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 7:51pm
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Is that Bloody Mary mix? ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 8:00pm
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From the picture, it still looks like it has a milky tint to it. I'd run the engine again and do one more ATF change. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 10:17pm
You are correct..it was bright pink, but still cloudy and milky. So I just got done running the boat "dry" for 4 minutes. I did a change again. Here is a pic after this last change. (yes, it's an old Bloody Mary mix bottle! ) ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: n7narcosis
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 10:53pm
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This is my first post here as I am a new CC owner... I hope that this is the most appropriate way to join a conversation (let me know if I should have created my own topic as to not step on any toes), from what I can see the support available here on this forum is very welcoming! Flyweed has water in his trans fluid, and hope for him that it was nothing more that a breather valve slurp of water... I am the eager guy that replaced a corroded trans dip stick, and changed the fluid quickly as lord only knows how long the mystery fluid was in there since the dip stick was so heavily corroded --- trans runs beautifully from what I can tell... BUT I put in synthetic instead of the conventional, to which I'm now reading is a no-no -- what should I do to remedy, same steps as what Flyweed has done? Also, moving to winterize in a few days, I have a new "fake-a-lake" attachment on the raw water intake; it is safe practice to run from a bucket of 50/50 or RV antifreeze until fluid runs out exhaust... or should I be pulling all threaded plugs and following the steps found here? --- also, my cooling is split: RW for exhaust only, the block is already antifreeze; with a copper intercooler on the driverside of the motor. ------------- 1989 Correct Craft Martinique CB --- 351W |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 11:25pm
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Fly can you hold it up and see the light through it? If not, flush again. ------------- -Spiral '89 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 11:26pm
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I would extract, fill, run & extract about 3 times to get all the synthetic out of there. Best to pull water drain plugs before adding A/F. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-12-2016 at 11:27pm
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Dan, I'd call it good for winter and take a look at the oil again after a few hours of run time next spring. Still do the cooler pressure test though. Hi Jason, welcome to the site! Even though you are just winterizing the exhaust side and heat exchanger I'd still attempt to drain as much water out as possible prior to adding antifreeze. So that means the strainer, risers, transmission cooler (I assume this is still fed raw water?) and of course the heat exchanger. Once water is out you can suck the antifreeze through from a bucket, won't take much since you aren't filling the block. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: October-13-2016 at 12:09am
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yep, I can see light through...I am gonna call it good for the winter. I re-fogged the engine again, since the last couple runs burned off my original fogging fluid. I will pull the trans. cooler and pressure test..other than that, it's time to wash her and wax her good and put it to bed for the winter ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: n7narcosis
Date Posted: October-13-2016 at 12:10am
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Thanks for the warm welcome and support! I will get that synthetic out this weekend, I'll grab 6 quarts tomorrow... What would you suggest for proper trans fluid? Is there a few different options or a particular fluid that I need to search for? Once the trans mistake is corrected, I'll be sure to pull her out and drain from all the plugs not associated to the closed cooling system, including the raw water side of the heat exchanger and trans (yes, is raw water cooled) I've waited a long time to find this particular boat! Here is an image of my new girlfriend to introduce:  ------------- 1989 Correct Craft Martinique CB --- 351W |
Posted By: JD ski
Date Posted: October-13-2016 at 1:03am
I would agree, the color does not look right. It could be the camera, lighting or my screen. However, the color does not look right, it does not appear clear as should be. Pour a small amount of trans fluid from a new bottle into a clear container and compare color with what is in that picture, I think you will see a difference. So, your original question is do you need to replace the trans cooler. The pressure testing as suggested above would give you that answer but may be harder for you to do with the available tools. You can also go the route you are going via changing the fluid as you will have to change the fluid any how and it is cheep. Anyhow, I would change the fluid one more time if the fluid removed from the trans is not as clear as a comparison to fresh fluid in a clear container comparison. Then run the motor with out water and see if there is any change. Then add water and continue to run the motor with water attached. and recheck the fluid. If the fluid stays clean you are all good, If the trans fluid becomes milky again trans cooler repair or replacement is in order. ------------- JD ski, slicing, dicing, and shredding since 1981 1999 Air Nautique, GT40 Pro Boss, Trail Rite trailer 1975 Century Resorter |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-13-2016 at 12:10pm
| Your girlfriend has a beard. |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-13-2016 at 1:00pm
Well he is from Canada, yeah hey dere, so she is probably starting her playoff beard early ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |