Perko FlushPro and Raw Water Strainer
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40290
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 9:46am
Topic: Perko FlushPro and Raw Water Strainer
Posted By: trice
Subject: Perko FlushPro and Raw Water Strainer
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 2:11pm
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Requesting comments/suggestions on the necessity for and the plumbing arrangement (pictures would be great) of these two items? Boat will be used in fresh water only and winterized annually. Will be pluming an 87SN for next season soon. Thank you! ------------- 87 SN |
Replies:
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 3:59pm
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Strainer is really a good idea if you run in weedy water, typically they are mounted in the intake line as it comes across the rear of the engine. Flush Pro's are fine and would go wherever you can install and access it easily, usually between the strainer and hull intake. Save yourself a few bucks and make your own Flush Pro, do a search for the "Timmy Tee", want to say member GaryS has posted the exact parts needed to build a Timmy Tee. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 4:24pm
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39603&KW=timmy&title=flush-kit-timmy-t-what-am-i-doing-wrong" rel="nofollow - Here is one of many pretty good discussions of the timmy-T. I thought we had had reports of problems with the perkos because of sticky valves or something that they can fail, if not result in not supplying cooling water, or am I thinking of something else? ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 4:28pm
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I think your correct Larry. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35646&title=advice-for-reviving-a-87-sn-2001-after-10yrs" rel="nofollow - Here is is another link ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 4:47pm
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Most of those reports have been by the same guy Larry, lol. I have a 17+ yr old Flush Pro that by some miracle still works, lol. Think the Flush Pro is fine however would I spend $80 on one today or $10 to make a Timmy T, easy answer!! BTW, there has been a name change, it is now the Timmy Tea Bag.........or wait, maybe I am mixing that up with something else ....... hmmmm ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 4:48pm
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OK, I have a question about Timmy-Ts (R) I know they work, they are proven. Sometimes when discussion comes up about them, people ask "isn't a valve needed between the timmy t and the thru-hull? And the answer is always no, not needed the water pump can pull the water the right way - away from the thru hull. Well why is it that we are always diagnosing cooling problems due to some microscopic pin hole in the water line, at a connection or mostly at that separator that prevents the pump from pulling. I have a hard time envisioning a garden hose filling up, absolutely 100 percent the 1" water line between the T and the thru hull. Seems to me that would be pretty turbulent flow sloshing through the hose that certainly includes a potential air pathway, at least as significant as some little pin hole leak at the separator. Convince me. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 5:00pm
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Larry, I think there are 2 answers to your question, but they are just my thoughts, not proven by any means. 1 - Less heat generated by the engine on the hose since it is not under load, and since the running RPM range is significantly less. 2 - the hose will assist in pressurizing the water flow from the inlet of the T to the pump. this is not replicated in the water where you are relying on suction from the pickup to the raw water pump to deliver the water. Air leaks under normal operation would cause the pump to lose suction, and therefore would provide too little water for high operational loads. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-08-2016 at 5:08pm
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Dreaming is right on #1, it's easy to keep the engine cool at idle with no load. There is no need to fill the cooling line/pump 100%. The tee will absolutely cause you to draw air (through the hull pickup). It still flows plenty of water to keep the engine cool and the impeller lubricated and that is all that really matters. It is not an appropriate way to troubleshoot the cooling system. Not all flush pro's fail prematurely but I have read many complaints about them causing overheats, either due to sloppy valves or cracked housings. KISS (and save yourself some $). |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 9:15am
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I installed the Timmy Tee last year, no problems with it. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 9:34am
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Thomas, I don't see where anyone has asked you your intended purpose for the flush or T. You run in fresh water so a fresh water flush isn't needed. If the intent is running the engine out of the water, then it's a great idea. If your thoughts are for winterizing by sucking antifreeze then it's not a good idea. I do not have the Timmy T installed on any of my boats since I've always used the "fake a lake" plunger on the thru hull pick up and without problems. but hear nothing but good reports on the T I also do not have sea strainers on any of the boats but I run in clean weed free water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 80SN Barnfind
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 9:51am
The only strainer we run is the tranny cooler! Check out this cabbage: The Niagara River is not necessarily weedy, but this is what happens when the kids set the boat down on what has gathered under the lift. The alternative T:  ------------- Knowledge comes by taking things apart: analysis. But wisdom comes by putting things together. |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 11:01am
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I do have a fake-a-lake. If you use one and your in the boat have someone outside the boat to make sure you don't knock it loose when moving around in the boat. (Always worried about that) ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 11:35am
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Thomas, If you do install a T for the hose, I do recommend sticking with the "Timmy" version without the valve next to the thru hull. The danger with a valve is forgetting to open the valve. It's just like a hull garboard drain that at one time forgotten to put it in. If you haven't forgotten a drain plug yet, it will happen sooner or later!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 11:45am
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Trice, I agree the Timmy Tee is a less expensive way to get the same results. I installed one in my 2002. However, I had a Perko in my now sold 1980 and did not have any issues. I have attached a photo for your review. For a closer look, go to the d*ck Pope wing of the Lego Land / Cypress Gardens Museum in Florida to see the boat currently on display.  I hope this helps, Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 12:30pm
Using that logic Pete maybe the steering wheel should be left off,it might be used to steer into something.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 12:54pm
Gary, a steering wheel is purposeful... I'm not sure I'd say the same for the shut off valve. I used it once on Dad's '03 and promptly fried the impeller.
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:26pm
| I like Barnfind's set up. Nothing against the Timmy T, but I like the brass parts better than plastic. How many years have those through hull valves been standard on new ski boats, at least 15? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:27pm
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If you lock your keys in the car or house you never lock it again? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:33pm
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I'm with you Bruce and actually bronze is what should be used. The guidelines set forth in the American Boat & Yacht Council’s Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small Craft, Standard, H-27, Through-Hull Fittings and Drain Plugs, revised in July 2008, make it clear that seacock installations must be robust and durable. It specifies that each penetration below the waterline should be fitted with a through-hull and a seacock valve. In this context, “below the waterline” means any fitting that is submerged when the vessel heels 7° for powerboats; and to the level of the sheer amidships on sailboats. A single exception is detailed below. While the standard is important and a quick read, a few passages are particularly relevant and potentially tricky for builders and repair yards: • 27.5.1 “All piping, tubing or hose lines penetrating the hull below the maximum heeled waterline, shall be equipped with a seacock to stop the admission of water in the event of failure of pipes, tubing or hose. (Exception 2) Hull penetrations that discharge above the waterline in its static floating position and below the maximum heeled waterline and meet requirements H-27.5.3.” ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:42pm
Not a good comparison Gary, but if locking my car was 100% unnecessary and the one time I did, I locked my keys in... yeah, i don't think I would do that anymore! If you're using the same thick schedule PVC tee that I am, it's more robust than the waste water plumbing in your house... Does that fail often? The plastic elbows/barbs on the strainers CC has installed since 1986 are the same material. You don't hear of them failing. I recommend they be installed above the water line btw, a little gravity feed helps the RWP prime. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:47pm
| I've had one of those through hull valves on my Malibu since 2003 and have never forgot to open it. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:51pm
| Those shut offs should only be closed in emergencies anyway. Don't screw around with it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 1:57pm
Gary still believes in scd.. 40 galv pipe water lines and cast iron DWV!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 2:02pm
It official, winter has set in.  ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 3:21pm
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Not a fair comparison Tim my house is in no danger of sinking and drowning it's inhabitants I'm not happy that plastic is used in CC's,it's not used because it's better,it's used because it's easier and cheaper. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 3:32pm
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If every component was made of brass or steel, what kind of slalom wake would these boats produce, Gary? Over-engineering has plenty of downsides (cost, weight, etc). I suppose it's a miracle that none of our older, valve-less boats have gone to the bottom! Unnecessary hardware is unnecessary hardware, IMHO.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 4:05pm
Tim, Well stated!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: trice
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 4:18pm
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Wow, thanks to everyone! My RH rotation Ford 351 PCM was removed from the boat when I bought it, it is the first CCSN I've owned, and I can't find clear pictures in the PCM manuals regarding configuration so please correct me if I have something out of place below. "Original” 1987 CC raw water cooling system components and directional flow from hull intake to RWP inlet (1" wire reinforced hose used): 1. Through hull intake 2. Top of transmission cooler 3. Bottom of transmission cooler 4. Strainer (located near electric panel and rear starboard rocker cover with bowl down), (from strainer outlet, 1" hose downward to run between engine mount and engine block along side the oil pan) 5. RWP inlet (bottom) The raw cooling water enters the transmission cooler on top not the bottom, correct? I like the idea of having a clear, see through, strainer or flush pro in the system so you can open the engine cover and visually see water flowing in the system. I'm leaning toward the "by the book" drain and pour winterization method, the cheaper "T" without check valve /shutoff to block the through hall inlet for engine runs, and a clear strainer in the factory location for extra straining and the occasional flow inspection. A special thanks to those who sent pictures! Tom ------------- 87 SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 4:21pm
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=the+graduate+plastics+my+boy&qpvt=the+graduate+plastics+my+boy&view=detail&mid=D4F4047DA314514863D3D4F4047DA314514863D3&FORM=VRDGAR" rel="nofollow - Plastics! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 4:32pm
| Pete, given a choice, I'll always choose bronze. How much plastic do you have in your boats? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 5:10pm
Doesn't look quite right to me, Tom. I have shuffled things very slightly here and added the tee, but the general routing is stock. The hull pickup is on the port side and crosses under the trans and then up over the top (stbd back to port) and then to the rwp after the trans cooler.
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 5:14pm
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Well lets see 69 Mustang,77 Shamrock,95 Super Sport. I think it's safe to say slalom wake is not a priority. Look at CC's sales,does not look to be theirs either,the difference between a hand full of plastic or bronze won't make a difference to them. But a dollar vs 10 sure does. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 5:52pm
Depends on if Pete drives or somebody younger!  ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: trice
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 6:07pm
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Thanks! I was missing the hose routing from the through hull, under the trans, and then up along the right side of the bell housing. I had seen where previously on my boat the water hose from the bottom of the trans cooler had been run along the lower port side of the engine and fastened via a loom to the lower left front of the motor, then ran under the crank pulley to the RWP inlet. Mystery solved!! Does the location of your T help keep on-land engine run water from deviating towards the through hull more so than a T installed closer and before bending to the right and under the trans? What kind and where do you get your 1" hose for this system? My RWP is original but I have cleaned, helicoiled, re-gasketed (both), and replaced the impeller. The soap bubbles should tell the story this spring when I do my first ground run. By the way, that's one squared away engine and trans!  ------------- 87 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 6:26pm
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No extra 1" hose is needed to add the tee, just cut and insert. If starting from scratch, 1" cooling hose can be purchase from the likes of SkiDIM or go2marine. Putting the tee up high does make it easier for the RWP to prime (gravity), the location fore/aft of the strainer is inconsequential. It is also much easier to access when connecting the garden hose, as opposed to reaching down alongside the stringer. Gary, I can't speak for the shamrock with certainty but doubt that additional weight would have been considered a plus. You better brush up on your CC history... While not their top of the line tournament offerings, the mustang in the 60's and the super sport in the mid 90's absolutely were built with skiing performance in mind and extra weight would not have been seen as a positive. |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: December-09-2016 at 9:07pm
Correct, from the pickup (to the Timmy-t/Perko) to the strainer, to the top side of the trans cooler. Out of the bottom of the trans cooler to the inlet of the RWP. BTW, if your system is working correctly, you cannot see water movement through the clear parts of the system (strainers/perko) . The only reason you'll see movement is because there is air in the system. You don't want air bubbles, so therefore, while I like that you're checking things, this theory doesn't hold up. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2016 at 6:43am
Bruce, Considering the ages of my boats, there isn't any plastic plumbing on any of them, however, with my career background that included lots of plastics, it doesn't bother me that plastic components are used on newer boats. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2016 at 8:49pm
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For anyone wanting to install the "Timmy T", I got SKU#'s while at work at the HD today. First, here's Gary's picture:  Here's the HD SKU's # 190926 is the Tee. It's 1" hose barb x 1/2" pipe.(plumbing dept.) # 865599 is the brass pipe to hose adaptor.(plumbing dept.) # 442559 is the valve (garden dept.) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: trice
Date Posted: December-10-2016 at 9:59pm
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Awesome, Thanks! I will exchange the flush pro for a Sherwood strainer with skidim on Monday and pickup the T pieces at HD. Would this be a correct hose selection for this system in 1"ID? http://www.go2marine.com/product/242568F/shields-250-series-shieldsflex-ii-marine-water-exhaust-hose-with-wire-sold-by-lengths.html ------------- 87 SN |