1995 Super Sport Circuit breakers
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40410
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 9:45am
Topic: 1995 Super Sport Circuit breakers
Posted By: workky
Subject: 1995 Super Sport Circuit breakers
Date Posted: January-14-2017 at 7:40pm
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Does anyone know what the circuit breaker ratings are for a 1995 SS I need to replace all of them, they are the push button kind ignition bilge bildge auto blower nav anchor acc1 acc2 acc3 acc4 Im trying to figure out he AMP ratings for these to buy new ones Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: kylem428
Date Posted: January-14-2017 at 11:14pm
| I just had my dash apart and could have looked except I put it back tonight. Nav, anchor, and all 4 acc breakers are 10 amp. Not sure on the others. |
Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: January-14-2017 at 11:27pm
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Nautique parts sells these and used to list the amps for each part. ------------- 96 Super Sport Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: January-16-2017 at 5:07pm
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the breakers are common and not nautique/correctcraft specific. if you can find the list of the breaker sizes, I would recommend finding an online source ( I did a thread on these breakers a while back) they are much more expensive through NP and Skidim than they were from some other sources. The fit was Identical. |
Posted By: workky
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 5:21pm
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I know you can get them off of amazon for less than 10 buck. I cant see paying 20-25 bucks for same thing. The ones I looked at were sierra. Also are there just 2 connectors to the back? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 5:47pm
Brent, I would not buy anything branded Sierra unless my life depended on it! It's cheap stuff from China. In the case of a circuit breaker, your life may just depend on it. They serve a VERY important function. Yes, there will only be two terminals on the back. A circuit breaker is nothing more than a switch that opens when there's a current overload protecting the wiring from burning up. If electrics are unfamiliar to you, maybe you have a friend who could help? Also, why are you changing all of the breakers? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
workky wrote:Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 6:15pm
Was wondering the same thing myself. Pete, how bout a little help, any idea where he might find a comparable/decent quality breaker to what NP or SkiDIM sells?? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: workky
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 6:34pm
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http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Sierra-20-Amp-Circuit-Breaker-Sierra-Part-CB41230&i=751931 Would that work? |
Posted By: workky
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 6:41pm
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http://www.iboats.com/SeaDog-Thermal-AC-DC-Circuit-Breakers/dm/cart_id.980301829--session_id.944165624--view_id.39683 or this? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 6:42pm
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I want to say that the original breakers were made by ETA, but I'd check to see what was marked on an original to be sure. NP and SkiDIM aren't in the breaker building business and I can understand trying to find a cheaper source when replacing them all in one shot. Their push button mechanisms wear out, cause voltage drops, etc so I understand the desire to replace 20 yr old breakers. To petes point, Sierra isn't in the breaker making business any more than the others so I wouldn't buy their rebrand either. That's the best way to guarantee you get a cheaper part, they compete heavily on price and not quality... pass. |
Posted By: workky
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 6:43pm
Im changing them because they are all hard to turn off, the push button does not want to come out, i think it might have some corrosion inside or something |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 7:57pm
If they have a on/off push button then they are not just breakers but combination switch/breakers. The cheap ones referenced in the previous posts are just breakers with a reset button and do not turn off unless they pop. Once they pop you can push the button to reset them. I looked extensively on-line and could not find ones much cheaper than NP offers. www.nautiqueparts.com/product/circuit-breaker-switch" rel="nofollow - breaker - switch |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 8:09pm
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I believe I got mine on Iboats. I don't remember the brand. Price may not be an issue for the smaller breakers, but I think I saved about $10 on the 50A that I got for the engine compartment. My old one was stuck open, with the button pushed in, so I too understand the need for finding a suitable replacement. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 8:53pm
Brent, Do be careful as to the type of breaker you purchase. Yes, they are a switch and breaker combined. CQ asked me if I had any ideas on where to find some decent ones. I did some searching and could not come up with any sources besides NP and Skidim. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 10:02pm
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?[/QUOTE] Brent,I would not buy anything branded Sierra unless my life depended on it! It's cheap stuff from China. In the case of a circuit breaker, your life may just depend on it. They serve a VERY important function. [/QUOTE] So Pete, I guess you avoid NAPA for marine parts too since the great majority of their marine parts are Sierra. Ya' just don't know who to trust these days. or whose parts come from China 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-17-2017 at 11:39pm
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Ken, I really don't go to Napa for my marine needs. I did about 10 years ago looking for T stats for my Y block. They never were able to source them. The only other time I went to them was for piston rings for the 1927 Universal Flexfour I rebuilt. That they were able to help with but the rings were basic "off the shelf" items with one exception. One of the ring grooves in each piston what 3/8" wide and no one makes a ring that wide with the needed bore anymore. Instead of having custom rings cut, I just doubled up two 3/16" rings in each groove. It sounds like you're not a big fan of Napa? Were do you go? Autozone?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 7:49am
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I use a variety of places depending what it is that I'm looking for. If I'm not crazy over one outfit or another, I don't go around badmouthing them though. Ya never know Pete, you might end up working at one of those places you seem to despise. Home Depot comes to mind And your ring job just might be viewed as "backyard hacking at it's best" |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 8:37pm
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I purchased mine at Allied Electronics. http://www.alliedelec.com/ Copy and paste the following into the search box: 2-5700-IG1-P10-DD The search will pull up the various amp ratings. You will likely need the following: 2.5 amp – used on bilge pump and auto bilge pump ($13.86) 6 amp – used on blower ($13.50 for 7 amp or $16.14 for 5 amp) 8 amp – used Barefoot Nautique pump & auto pump ($16.14) 10 amp – used on navigation light, anchor light, and accessory ($18.30) 20 amp – used on ignition (main) ($13.50) JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: workky
Date Posted: January-24-2017 at 12:58pm
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Do they use a 30 amp for anything? I have two fat sac pumps on ACC 1 and a radio and amp, not sure if im overloading it. Electricity is not my strong point. Sierra breaker is not the same as some one pointed out in an earlier post. I dont mind biting the bullet for the right stuff, |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-24-2017 at 1:44pm
Well at least you recognize it! I think you are hinting at upsizing the breaker in order to accommodate a greater load. This is a back asswards approach. First of all, breakers should be sized to protect the most vulnerable part of the circuit. This is normally the wiring itself. If you are not adding larger wires for the full span from power source to load, you cannot (safely) upsize the breaker. Secondly, each load should ideally be breakered/fused individually- especially if those loads are going to be active concurrently. If ganging things together on the same breaker, then upsizing all the wires (and breaker) to accommodate all loads can work... but it's a bit of a sloppy approach. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2017 at 2:49pm
Brent, What is the FLA (full load current) draw of the pump? What breaker size does the pump OEM recommend? Yes, do take note of what Tim stated above and also get some help!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |