Best way to replace cutlas.
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40425
Printed Date: September-20-2024 at 11:18pm
Topic: Best way to replace cutlas.
Posted By: Frankenotter
Subject: Best way to replace cutlas.
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 12:43pm
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So I was about ready to charge down to my heated hanger with the intent of pulling the shaft out of the 176. This was a 2 birds one stone scenario. 1. The cutlas bearing has too much play 2. I suspect the shaft is bent a little. I was just going to bring a prop puller, remove the rudder, and use a 3 jaw puller for the flange. Now I've been seeing a lot of people talking about removing the engine instead of removing the trans coupler. Is it THAT hard to get the coupler back on? I know it's tight, but I was picturing an oven and some aerosol to get her back together. Is it not that easy? I hate the idea of pulling the engine when I'm not sure the shaft is good anyway. Chris ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 12:47pm
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I haven't seen anyone remove a coupler with a puller. Not even sure there's room to try. Jody was just talking about how he pulls the engine to install the XPC dripless shaft seal. I'm rolling the engine in spring to do a cutlass. Fussing with the interference fit couplers is indeed nonsense. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:03pm
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Dealing with interference fit couplers is not hard. Ignore HW, he has an unnatural fear of coupler removal/reinstallation (don't think he's ever done one). You mentioned removing the strut... now that is something I would try to avoid at all costs... getting it perfectly lined up when reinstalling can be pretty tricky. Not hard to r&r the bushing while it's on the boat. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:06pm
| Clearly it's not just me, the resident PROFESSIONAL doesn't fux with them either. Later hobbyist... |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:15pm
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Hobbyist here... I know how long it takes me to remove, reinstall and realign an engine. With my facilities and equipment, it's easily a half day project if I hustle... full day if I take my time. I can do a shaft r&r plus bearing replacement in a few hours- either on the lift or on the trailer. Just speaking from experience. Of course, if the engine is coming out anyways you bet I'll be throwing a cutlass in while it's out. That's $50 and 45min well spent. |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:19pm
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Sorry, I'm NOT removing the strut. Just the shaft and replacing the cutlas. Might have to get an A.R.E. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:26pm
| Going ARE if your shaft is bent is not a bad idea... it's the same price (or cheaper) than a new single taper shaft + coupler. If your coupler is good, I might price out a shaft-only replacement though? If close in cost, dual taper is pretty nice. |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:47pm
Then just cut the old shaft out and be done, easiest way going about it IMO. Packing on rudder also while its out. I'm only hobbist though |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 1:55pm
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Only if you're sure that 1) it's bent and 2) you're not going to reuse the coupler. Else you're potentially flushing $350. Removing the coupler is also easiest when you have a matching stationary pushing point (like the trans output flange). Otherwise, by all means- sawzall! Shaft packing (assume you meant driveshaft, not rudder) is a good idea too. 1000x easier while the shaft is out. |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 2:17pm
| Yeah, the packing in the nut for the rudder, thats what I should have said |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 2:21pm
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All you need is a blowtorch and a pair of pliers, ya hear me Hillbilly Boy?? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 2:54pm
You're still losing me Joel... why repack the rudder when the driveshaft is out? Other than maybe having the floor panel off, what work are you saving by doing them both at once? Unless the rudder is leaking or maybe if it's loooong overdue, why not leave it be? |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 3:45pm
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If my memory serves me right I had to pull the rudder to get the old shaft out and new one in. I only cut it once by the log. That SS sucked cutting. I'm sure many would have frowned upon it, but I actually used a cutting wheel, but I was extremely careful. My theory is your ordering and paying for shipping on packing for the shaft nut why not do the rudder nut as well if the rudder is pulled. I did my shaft log also. Buck Algonquin. My boat is 10years older than Chris's though. If I remember right he has and puts on alot of hours a year. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 3:57pm
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Chris, Dial indicate the shaft both in the middle and especially at the end of the prop taper. If it's bent as you suspect, cut it out and go with the ARE. If not, then as mentioned you have the choices of ether pulling the engine, pulling the trans flange or just cut it anyway and go ARE.. No, there isn't enough room to get a puller on the flange and the reason the spacer and bolt trick is used. Even if there was room for the puller say if the engine or the shaft was out of the boat it's not the best idea. With the arms of the puller being on the outside diameter of the flange, there's a strong chance of bending/warping the flange. With the bolt trick, there's less of a chance since the bolt holes are closer to the center of the flange. Yes, it's an interference fit and they can be a real problem getting them off. Then, there's the issue of getting it back on with the heat shrink process! BTW, when was the last time the alignment was checked on the 176?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 4:00pm
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Actually when I replace the cutless in a strut like the one on a 176 I leave the engine in the boat. pop the prop off, remove the four 3/8" fastener's on the strut. pry the strut loose and slide it off the shaft. remove the two hex head set screws in the strut. set it up in my press and press out old cutless unit. clean and press in new unit. Clean old sealant from bottom of strut insert, Apply new sealant on strut base and bolts slide it back up on the shaft and reinstall fasteners. Check engine alignment put the boat back together and go skiing!!! Takes about an hour and half for that install.. ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 4:12pm
Tim, I agree. There's just enough slop in the 4 hull holes and strut base to kick it out of alignment when you tighten it up. Then at the very minimum you need to unbolt the shaft coupling at the trans and make sure the shaft is happy at the position of the strut. If not, then you need to go mess with the strut again or leave it as is and blow the new cutlass bearing in a relatively short time!! , ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 4:55pm
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Joel, I haven't done a 2001 but the '09 and '72 I did in the last few years didn't require rudder removal to get the shaft past. This may vary by model/year... definitely repack the rudder if it's out! Pete, the ones I've done had more than *just enough* slop to create massive misalignment if you weren't careful. Test fitting, and then double checking alignment to the log after applying sealant and snugging the bolts (and adjusting as necessary) is required... and of course aligning the engine afterwards. Not exactly rocket surgery but a little more involved than leaving the strut on the boat (and more work than people may realize). |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 5:30pm
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Oh no! Chicken little say's the sky is falling the sky is falling! Alternative process is always hard for the archaic mind to comprehend! Have done a number of struts in the manor described above in most all brands of inboard boat and never had any issues realigning. The Correct Craft Nautique 176 actually has a pretty precise mounting platform for it's strut assembly. There are many way's to accomplish the same outcome and have done the strut bushing/cutlass refit both way's in many different boats and will in the future assess direction of the that job depending on the boat. However in the case of that generation Correct Craft I will continue to remove strut and proceed with what I described above and would recommend it to the DYI hobbyist as an alternative to the potential can of worms that is otherwise discussed. Do any of you own a Meloon Crafted Strut Tweeker??? ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 6:00pm
No not the Meloon version but the commercially available version is called a 36" pipe wrench with the accessory cheater pipe extension handle. Both work very well for the advanced back yard hack that wants to adjust a strut position and or and twist or bend. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 6:04pm
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Ah so there is a name for that tool? Ha. I've used one of those before... tweaking a strut that is snugged down but sealant is still uncured can be done with a BFH as well. |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 6:19pm
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A little walk down memory lane on this topic : http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24913&title=driveshaft-coupling-removal-diy-air-tool-version" rel="nofollow - Shaft coupling removal with an impact wrench. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 7:09pm
| I actually like the way Jody's described. I ended up needing to pull the strut anyways for an alignment. Could have loosen the bolts and shimmed put I need to re-bed the 4200. I made marks where the strut was on the hull before I loosened it, put it right back where it was. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 7:24pm
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Any competent machine shop can make your single taper shaft into a double taper. I think I paid $65.00 for my tapered coupling. If your shaft is good or can be straightened to within tolerance then that seems like a viable solution. Turning the taper and threading the end is not too big of a chore if you have the equipment. Good luck which ever way you go. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 7:27pm
Joel, FYI and to others, I'd like to mention that putting the strut back to were it was isn't always the best idea. It could have been bent at one time plus, it may not have been installed correctly at the factory!  Always check it by using the shaft through the center of the log and making sure the shaft is happy (turns freely) in the struts position.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 8:08pm
| Good catch Pete, I should note I mocked it up first with shims and found the happy spot in the log before I buttered it with 4200. That would be the key. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 9:45pm
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I think the OP has left the building . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-18-2017 at 11:23pm
Pete I made a post a while ago about getting a dial indicator on the 176 shaft. I fillowed the procedure and checked the recommended spots. the problem was there was too much play in the cutlass to get good results. I was getting north of .1" which didn't seem possible. I know I need a new cutlass either way so I'm going to take the shaft to a local machine shop to have them test the runout on both the promo and 176 shaft. I found the posts with the coupler removal using a socket and bolts. Does anyone know what size (width) bolts will fit in the coupler? If the shaft is within tolerance..............( .003?????) then I will just replace the cutlass and try the heat method with the coupler. If I cant save the shaft, I will order a new A.R.E. and be done with it. I checked the alignment when I bought the boat 4-5 years ago  What place has the best deals on cutlass bearings? 1" od ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 7:18am
Not to confuse things, but the .003 figure is on the FACE of the coupler not on the shaft. That being said, the shaft should be as straight as possible, especially in the last 12" or so. The site sponsors would be a source.. Also check "DeepBlueYachtSupply.Com" Can't locate the receipt for my tapered coupling but I paid about $65 for it, not sure where I bought it. Have fun sawing it out ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 7:45am
Duane, The .003" is the TIR on the shaft! When facing the coupling face, I sure hope whomever is truing it up to it's bore can et it closer than the .003! I'd like to add that the ARE taper at the trans is very short (steep) since many of out boats do not have the room for a regular taper between the trans and stuffing gland.. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 7:59am
Pete, The .003 figure that I was referring to was the feeler gage used to set the alignment to. And yes, the coupling assembled should be near perfect before attempting to align the shaft to the trans. The taper per inch is the same on both ends of mine, just shorter not steeper. Terminology here is misleading. 1" in 16" taper is S.A.E. Specification J755 spec. Anyway, whoever machines the shaft should fit it to the supplied coupling. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:05am
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So when I drop these shafts off at the machine shop today, what is the max runout that I'm having them look for along the length of the shaft. I know I've seen the .003 number in reference to the coupler, but I've also seen it in posts instructing people to check forward/aft of the strut with an indicator...... looking for .003" or less. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:12am
| Believe that is correct... .003" max for both shaft runout and coupler face alignment. Pete will confirm. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:16am
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Chris, The runout at any point in the shaft should not exceed the .003". They should also check aft of the strut on the prop taper since this is a spot that is a frequent bend. The shaft is supported forward at the trans end and aft were the strut normally is and then they indicate the prop taper. Yes, Duane confused things talking about alignment with the .003 between the coupling faces when we've been talking shaft straightness! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:26am
| If you have a shaft that is out, say .0045" and you straighten it back to say .0015", is there any negatives such as weakening, assuming heat was not used in the process? |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:32am
.003 would certainly be within tolerance. Have them "chart" where they are out and how much. That will give you a good idea of whether to use them or not. Why not purchase a tapered coupling and have them machine the shaft for it?? Then you will have a double taper shaft which is much easier to service now and in the future. They will need a reference dimension to work to. Meaning end of shaft at the prop end to the face of the press on coupling. That way the new coupling will measure the same as the old when assembled. Or go pay a ton of $$ for a new ARE shaft and have basically the same thing. Your choice of course. Other opinions will surely differ. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 1:52pm
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When they measure runout, I would have them use v blocks at coupler end & also at strut area. (as opposed to end centers). That way they are duplicating the boat geometry. Several members have had success straightening a shaft. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 8:29pm
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The real answer to the question of this topic is.................. Host a Mini, have all the parts and cold beer on hand and watch those with experience jump in to show you. It is a special kind of pay it forward with this bunch ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 10:54pm
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Duane I will absolutely look into getting the shaft converted into a taper if it's still good. First I have to find out if it's still usable. I got the shaft removed today. I went with Joel's method of using a small impact drill to carry the load. I can't even imagine doing that job without it. Even with power tools it took me 3 hours (with a lot of that removing striped bolts). *******word of advice to anyone thinking of attempting this. Get good bolts and nuts to create the press. I used regular zinc hardware from Home Depot because it was what was available to me with short notice. If I had to do it again I would go get much more sturdy hardware from a proper source and not worry about stripping and cutting bolts. Interesting side note, when the shaft came out of the 176 it measured 43 inches. When I put it side-by-side with the shaft from the Promo, it was considerably shorter. The Promo measured 50 inches. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:36pm
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Chris I dropped both shafts off at the machine shop today. I spoke with the guy that took care of my manifolds back from when I bought the boat. He showed me the V-blocks and his setup. He pointed out that both shafts need to be cleaned up before they can be measured due to the corrosion and build up left over from the couplers. This little project could cost me $200 or $900........so fingers crossed. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-19-2017 at 11:39pm
Chris, We (HD) carry grade 8 fine thread bolts and nuts. We also have never seize. You must not have looked had enough or not asked an associate!  Don't blame HD for you're not getting the hardware from a "good source". ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-20-2017 at 12:02am
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Pete you probably work at a good one. My neighborhood HD is on the fringe of a few different neighborhoods. The isles look like they got hit by a tornado and you're hard pressed to find an "associate" that speaks passable English. However, you're correct in the assumption that i didn't look very hard. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-20-2017 at 12:21am
Your a better man than me, I would be on to some other project while waiting for a nice new for sure straight and easy install shaft to arrive at my front door. |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-20-2017 at 12:33am
Hahah. If I went that route it would be $900+ for sure. I'm doing this for 2 boats. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-20-2017 at 1:15am
Wow, I won't be hitting any logs anytime soon. Just looked the current price up  Looked up my receipt from almost 2 years ago, figured it was about same price. Paid $375 plus $29 for shipping. That might sway my decision too |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-20-2017 at 9:43am
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http://www.skidim.com/mobile/ARE-SHAFT-SYSTEM-1-X-4-COUPLER/productinfo/WS%2D2000/" rel="nofollow - http://www.skidim.com/mobile/ARE-SHAFT-SYSTEM-1-X-4-COUPLER/productinfo/WS%2D2000/ $413-10% = $372 |
Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: January-20-2017 at 9:58am
| I looked at the wrong size on skidim |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 8:47am
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While waiting for the shaft to return, what is the favorite place to order cutlas bearings? 2 piece? 1 piece? ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 10:53am
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Ski-DIM has always given me excellent customer support. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 10:59am
I've gotten mine at http://www.go2marine.com/product/83313F/rubber-sleeve-stern-bearings-naval-brass.html-153245207" rel="nofollow - Go2Marine . Better pricing as well. I also stick with the traditional one piece. I feel it gives you better radial support at the aft end of the strut where it's needed from the radial loading from the prop. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 11:22am
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Deltaprop.com one of our sponsors has bearings. They show 1" shaft with 1 1/4 OD which is what mine is. Go2Marine does not list my size. https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/brass-cutlass-bearing" rel="nofollow - DeepBlueYatchSupply show multiple bearings with 1" ID and various lengths I used one piece with proper length. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 12:40pm
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Love my OJ Vesconite bearings... I'd be hard pressed to go with the conventional bushings. ^^note cutlass bearing joke^^ |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 3:56pm
Is that a bad pun or a reference to the validity of calling these things bearings? In true CCF fashion we get 4 different answers!!! ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 4:21pm
Chris, I didn't get Tim's attempt at a joke ether. Must be that northeast humor! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 4:29pm
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Anybody want to make an investment in a http://www.strutpro.com/" rel="nofollow - StrutPro ? We could then rent it out to anyone on the site for $25 plus shipping. Take a while to make the money back but apparently these things works slicker then snot!!! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 4:42pm
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Strut bushing replacement? Hard pressed? C'mon guys.
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Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 5:11pm
I am with yea Tim ------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 5:22pm
I'll throw in for the Chicago group. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: January-23-2017 at 10:52pm
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I'll ante-up for the Utah group... JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2017 at 12:10am
Steve, The person that told you how well they work, was he trying to sell it?? It's not easy to make a tool that only has .030 of brass wall thickness to press against! They work a couple times and then the mandrel needs to be refaced. Notice Jody doesn't even use one!!!!!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: January-24-2017 at 12:29am
Pete: nope the guy who told me how great they worked is a good friend of this site. He lives in Indy, said they had one at his old place of employment. He said they used it all the time. Made changing cutlass bearings a quick simple job. Pretty sure this guy wasn't trying to sell me one...  ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: February-25-2017 at 5:41pm
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So.............update on the shafts. I got a call back from my machine shop. Apparently both the 176 shaft and the promo shaft are out of tolerance by more than .015". They tried to square them up but every time they corrected one section, another would go out. Any ideas before I call SkiDim? Anyone know of discounts on A.R.E.? Looking at $380 a piece with the 10% CCF discount. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-25-2017 at 6:20pm
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Ouch! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-25-2017 at 7:41pm
| That's the best option going that I am aware of. Maybe check with general propeller on their dual taper shafts too? Believe they supply cc as oem these days. I would wait on the promo shaft until the motor is set. Doing so will allow you to fine tune the length, they tended to be pretty long. When dialing in length, i'd aim for 1/2" or a little less clearance between the prop and strut. Do the same on the 176 now while you have the chance! |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: March-09-2017 at 1:38am
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I was able to get the old cutlas out of the 176 toady using the homemade puller. I ordered a new cutlas based on the rough dimension from deep blue yacht supply. It was only today that I noticed I need a 6" cutlass and I ordered a 4". The price jumps considerably as well. It goes from $50 to $75 not including shipping. Word of warning you those "would be warriors" of the garage. 6" is better than 4. ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2017 at 7:07am
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Chris, The 4" is common, plenty to handle the load. and in fact, I've never seen a 6" used by CC. If you found a 6" in the strut, I suspect it was changed by a PO or CC ran out of the 4's. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-09-2017 at 9:07am
| Pete probably hasn't inspected a cc strut newer than an early 70's... that's about the last boats I remember seeing a 4" bushing in a 6" body. They've been full length for some time. When replacing, it's common to put the 2 smaller halves front and rear with a gap in the middle. It sounds like leaving a gap at the front is ok too. |
Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: March-09-2017 at 11:23am
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Just received my replacement yesterday from https://www.propellerdepot.com/johnson-naval-brass-cutless-bearing-bade It was an exact match for $65 shipped http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/kostaki98/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5B3A9C98-0B1C-46E6-B677-A4B4031CC0E7_zpsethw6jbb.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- Kostas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: March-30-2017 at 9:11pm
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Does anyone know where to get new set screws for the cutlass bearing? I had to drill mine out and I can't seem to find any info on where to find new ones. I can check McMaster when I get home to measure but I was hoping someone had a quick source? ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: March-30-2017 at 9:12pm
| I got some from my local ACE hardware. |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: March-30-2017 at 9:42pm
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Haha. Really? Hex key and everything? ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: March-30-2017 at 11:39pm
| "ACE is the place" |