Kill switch replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40493
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 9:23am
Topic: Kill switch replacement
Posted By: ArnaudBel
Subject: Kill switch replacement
Date Posted: February-05-2017 at 7:27am
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Hey there! I'm doing some small maintenance on my SN '90, one things is the killswitch that just fell off every now and then. So I decided to replace it. The only one I found here in Belgium, is a universal kill switch with 4 pins. Now the thing is, the original kill switch has 2 pins. Does anyone know which 2 pins I need to use? Also, I guess it doesn't matter which cable get connected to which pin, as it should work like an normal ON/OFF switch? thanks in advance and greetings from rainy Belgium!  
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Replies:
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-05-2017 at 7:35am
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Are you familiar with a VOM? Just use the ohm meter portion and without the lanyard on find which two terminals read open, then verify the same two terminals read closed when lanyard is installed. I am so glad to see somebody use and maintain a kill switch. I'm so disappointed with the knuckleheads that don't use them. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-05-2017 at 8:40am
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Arnaud, I'd like to welcome another Belgium'rs to CCfan. We have several here and I'd say Kristof is the most active. He would be a fantastic resource for you if needed. If you get a chance, post some pictures. We love them! Also a diary entry is always welcomed. Yes on following Todd's recommendation for determining the NO and NC poles in the kill switch. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-05-2017 at 9:03am
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Arnaud, If you don't already know Kristof, http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=3685" rel="nofollow - here's his contact information. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArnaudBel
Date Posted: February-05-2017 at 3:13pm
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Thanks for the quick responses guys! Now you mention NC and NO, I do remember seeing those on the killswitch, but I just glanced at it and thought it said NO on all 4 pins. So I just connect the cables to NO? Don't need to worry about polarities, right? I'm rebuilding the carburetor, this winter too. Also I'll be doing some small repairs to the hull (osmosis got ahold of it :/ ) and after that I'll polish it again so that the colours come out like new again! |
Posted By: ArnaudBel
Date Posted: February-05-2017 at 3:23pm
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oops, I meant I just connect them to NC |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 7:05am
Arnaud, Instead of guessing, I feel it's best to determine which set of contacts are NO (or NC) by checking continuity with the kill switch lanyard both connected and disconnected. As mentioned, a VOM is a great tool and a basic one is pretty inexpensive but a cheap battery/light bulb continuity tester can be used as well. What was wrong with the original switch? I've seen were the switch is good but the rubber part of the lanyard gets weak with age and no longer depresses the switch plunger anymore. Check your old switch as well. Maybe all that's needed is a new lanyard? No, polarity is not a concern. You are dealing with a simple single contact. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
ArnaudBel wrote:Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 10:58am
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I thought my kill switch was fine and the plastic just was worn and not compressing it enough because I could apply a slight amount of pressure to make contact, and a new lanyard (I keep a spare in the tool box) seemed to fix it. But, with the meter on it I found the switch was so touchy that it was going to keep interrupting power with bouncing/vibration. So, I changed out the switch. I know we are reluctant to toss out parts that are possibly still OK, but sometimes it makes sense to just replace the $20 part and move on. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |