Will start Cold/ Won’t Hot
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4051
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 5:20pm
Topic: Will start Cold/ Won’t Hot
Posted By: General32
Subject: Will start Cold/ Won’t Hot
Date Posted: July-03-2006 at 10:37pm
| Ok guys I just bought a 89 Ski Supreme with 351 Ford. This is my first post and I'm not a motor guy. Went to lake today and boat started right up. Let it warm up for a while and went to take off and it stalled. Would not start back up. Put on lift and went and ate lunch. Came back and boat started right up, went tubing for awhile and made sure to keep boat going. Run greats when on the water and moving. Came back to dock and it idled for an while then stalled would not start again. Let cool down and will start right up???? New plugs, distributor, rotor, and points, but have not touched anything else. Any ideas, thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-03-2006 at 11:25pm
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My bet is trash in the carb is not letting the needle valve seat. With the flame arrestor off while idling, see if gas is dripping into the carb throat. After the boat sits a while the fuel pressure bleeds off and the fuel in the carb and intake evaporates and lets the engine start normally.
That's my theory. (Actually I had the exact same thing happen on my '68). I had to clean and rebuild the carb. The fuel bowl had a lot of fine redish powder-like flakes in it. I had to add an inline fuel filter to resolve the issue. Then again, it could be your igntion coil. A failing coil will behave the way you described. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: July-03-2006 at 11:40pm
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Check the spark plugs after it warms up to see if any of them have water on them. The exhaust manifold could be leaking water. When it's warm and will not start, does it crank slower? ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: General32
Date Posted: July-04-2006 at 9:50am
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Tim D, no water on the plugs. The plugs are dry and white. Look like brand new. No, it does not crank slower.
Jim in Houston, can I check the coil or just buy a new one? |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-04-2006 at 10:30am
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Just buy a new coil. Folks on this forum can recommend a few good choices of performance coils. Even if you knew the proper test values you would have to test it when the problem raises its head - which would be out in the water somewhere. If the problem is not the coil you will have a spare. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: advsouthwind
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 12:03am
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when it isnt starting you need to determine if it isnt getting fuel or spark. the you can go into your trouble shooting tests to determine what needs replacing rather than just throwing parts at it.good luck ------------- gave up sea ray life for a 77 southwind 20 project just livin the dream |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 7:36am
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your first thing to do is toss the points and get a new dist or a conversion kit. then your going to need to check the timing and adjust it then adjust the carb's idle and idle mixture screws. Then you can worry about coils and other BS ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: jonesj
Date Posted: July-17-2006 at 8:44am
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I'm having the same issue w/ a 91 Correct Craft w/ 351 Ford. Getting gas, probably not spark. My distributor,rotor & points are solid state. If it's a coil problem wouldn't the engine quit running when it got hot? ------------- Jim |
Posted By: jonesj
Date Posted: August-03-2006 at 11:27am
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General 32,
Did you resolve your problem? I'm opening the engine box to allow the engine cool. It's a pain, but it should get me through the season. ------------- Jim |
Posted By: Jason
Date Posted: August-06-2006 at 10:49am
| I had the same problem. Replaced all of the ignition components. Converted to Pertronix and put on a new carb after several failed rebuilds. It stopped for a season and I thought my worries were over. Started it up this season and all came back. Started to really dig around in the ignition and found that I was getting a low voltage to my coil when cranking. This is probably due to several things and probably was the culprit all along. One of them being the boat is 20 years old and resistance is building in the wiring harness, and the starter is getting old and drawing more and more amps when cranking. Anyway I got a great tip from the I/O Mercruiser guys at www.Iboats.com. Take a heavy guage wire and run it from you empty stud on your starter solenoid up to your coil. When it will not start touch the wire to the "+" stud on your coil. If it starts then you have figured out your problem. This jumper allows a full 12 volts to run to your coil while cranking and when the starter solenoid disengages then the typical current then runs through your ballest resistor to you coil dropping the voltage to about 7-8. If you put on electronic ignition make sure you talk to the techs and hook it up the way they say, not necessarily the way the instruction say. My Pertronix is hooked directly to a keyed 12 volts no the coil. They need at least 8 volts to trigger (wich I was not getting) Anyway a 20 cent wire fixed a problem that about $500 worth of parts did not. |
Posted By: Jason
Date Posted: August-06-2006 at 10:51am
| Also turn your vents around on the deck of the boat so it forces fresh air into the bilge. This will decrease the engine compartment temps alot. |
Posted By: jonesj
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 1:20pm
|
Jason,
Thanks for the info. I have coil packs and not just one coil, so not sure how to apply your solution to see if I'm not getting enough volts there? The more I dig into this, the more it sounds like I need to convert the whole ProTec igntion. ------------- Jim |
Posted By: grim
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 5:52pm
I have had this problem once and tried many things. The problem was the engine was running only 10 degrees hotter than normal. You don't notice. I replaced the rubber rotator (this is the dutch word) its the rubber in the water pump. Then the problem was solved!! ------------- greatings from holland |
General32 wrote: