Engine just cuts out
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4056
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 4:59pm
Topic: Engine just cuts out
Posted By: TerraNovaSkier
Subject: Engine just cuts out
Date Posted: July-04-2006 at 5:38pm
Hi everyone,
I have a '91 Nautique and the engine runs smoothly but recently just completely cuts out either while driving or idling as if I turned the key off.
Temp is steady at 140 but I notice the oil pressure gauge is reading high at 80 kp. Not sure if it's related or not.
Starting is otherwise very strong. Maybe electrical? Maybe Pro-tec safeguard is on to something?
Any ideas?
-------------
1991 Nautique owner
|
Replies:
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: July-05-2006 at 11:01am
Maybe check for loose electrical wires at the ignition switch.
-------------
|
Posted By: TerraNovaSkier
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 12:32pm
I was out this weekend and changed the plugs hoping it might have an effect on this problem. No luck.
Both David F and rbjr are directing me to think it has to do with the ignition switch. I will check this next. It seems this is electrical or a fuel problem from feedback here as well as from a number of mechanics I spoke with.
I remember about 10 years ago having work done with the electrical system under the pod and I don't think it ever was the same.
The engine starts by first pushing in the ignition button then turning the key. I recall that originally I could leave the ignition button pushed in, say, in the case of having the auto bilge pump on along with it. Now when the ignition button is pressed in, it drains the battery.
Perhaps it's time to look at this again. I am really hoping that this is the problem and not have to buy a new carb.
The reason I'm thinking it could also be fuel related is that the carb kicks back when cutting out at half throttle. Also, when it lets me open it out at full throttle briefly before completely shutting down, I hear sort of a bonging sound coming from the carb. I hope this is only the result of another problem and not the problem itself.
The one other thing I was going to check next is timing. What are the symptoms of timing being off?
-------------
1991 Nautique owner
|
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 12:59pm
sounds like you have the wrong ignition switch, you shouldn't have to push it in then turn it, that style is for an outboard motor to engage the choke, your choke is automatic.
I would check the electrical connector at the rear of the engine block where the two harness' meet. If you have an electrical fuel pump then that would cause the issue as well with it losing power, the ignition module and/or coil will cause that typoe of problem as well.
-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
|
Posted By: PLBC
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 1:09pm
79, I think Terra means the ingition breaker separate from the key.
-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5164&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 99
|
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 1:16pm
ok but you shouldn't have to hit that unless it's tripped.
-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
|
Posted By: 25XS
Date Posted: July-11-2006 at 10:26pm
I fixed my 1991 Nautique Excel with a VERY similar problem:
1. Run a red 10gauge wire from the big red wire terminal on the key switch to the positive connection on the voltmeter on your dash.
2. Disconnect the edgecard circuit board wiring harness connector from your ProTec ignition module and clean all the pins with the eraser on a plain ole yellow pencil. Apply dielectric grease (non-conductive) to all the pins and the weatherproof boot and reconnect to the ignition module.
3. Remove all the (black) ground wires from the ignition and coil module pack and clean them. Reterminate anything you find loose and reconnect the grounds wires.
If your engine is going into "limp mode" it should keep running and be limited to 2500 rpm even if you give it full throttle in neutral, so try that experiment if it starts to shut down on you again. Also, if your carb is backfiring thru the carburetor, you quite likely have blown the diaphragm of the power valve in your Holley carburetor and need to replace it.
Good luck.
-------------
"Stock Stuff" by day... Racing Mercury outboards on the weekends.
1991 Nautique Excel "thousands" of hours...
|
Posted By: TerraNovaSkier
Date Posted: July-12-2006 at 3:44pm
79, I checked the connections at the rear of the engine and all have been replaced and look new and clean. The fuel pump has been replaced as well. I will check the ignition module/coils next.
Also, are you saying the ignition breaker in the dash would typically not have to be depressed when starting the engine? As it is now, I press in the ignition breaker button first, the red light comes on, the gauges register, and then I turn the key to turn over the engine. I am not sure if this is the way it always was in the past prior to having electrical work done years ago. In fact, I remember the clock running continuously as long as the battery was connected, now it only runs with the ignition breaker depressed and I have to keep setting it.
25XS, I will try that process. I was wondering about the Pro-tec system and if it had a role in all this.
I am hoping to hook up with a mechanic over the next few days and start a diagnostic process with him.
Some good leads and ideas here for us to try. Thanks everyone. I hope to check back with some positive results.
-------------
1991 Nautique owner
|
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: July-12-2006 at 3:58pm
79, On those boats, you do have to push in a breaker/swithch labeled "ignition" before the key will work. It's kind of a master power switch for the whole boat. The only thing that works without that switch pushed in is the auto bildge (which also has a push button breaker/switch). BKH
-------------
Livin' the Dream
|
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: July-12-2006 at 5:17pm
|
Sounds like your IGN breaker on the dash is wired to essentially act as the "ON" position of your key, and your key is only activating the starter solenoid. The gauges should not register when you press the IGN breaker in. Only when the IGN breaker is in AND the key is in the ON position should that occur. The clock will only run when the IGN breaker is pressed in- that part is correct. You should be able to leave the IGN breaker on all the time with only the clock draining any battery power at that point. That's how it was on my 90 at least.
|
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: July-12-2006 at 5:23pm
|
I should mention that the mis-wiring isn't the direct cause of the problem... it's still not right though. The random cutting out seems electrical to me. If the breaker is wired this way, I'd lean towards a bad connection at the IGN breaker since it seems like the key doesn't even control power to the actual ignition system the way your boat is (incorrectly) wired. I'd pull out the pod and eyeball how that thing is wired.
|
|