New to me 78 Tique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40614
Printed Date: December-02-2024 at 12:53pm
Topic: New to me 78 Tique
Posted By: samudj01
Subject: New to me 78 Tique
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 12:05am
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Below is the original post to this thread. Unfortunately the site was hacked and all picutures lost. Happy to send detailed pics to anyone looking at this thread with questions. Below see pics of before:      And After:   First up will be the engine and the trailer. Engine popped the freeze plugs in 2013 so we are on pins and needles as to engine...anyone know a good correct craft engine shop around the Carolinas? We are going to soak her this week and put a bar on it next weekend just to be cautious. 302 Commander. Otherwise I am very pleased with the boat. New floor and carpet, solid mounts, and from what I can see, all parts there. Trailer has a little left to be desired but it trailered well on the trip home at 65 mph. Pics follow (people in pics are seller and son). Realize now that I didn't get any interior shots. Those to come. And to all, Fram is on there. Don't worry, will change. Thoughts? Let me know what you see is askew. Questions: Oil and filter...same as my GT40? Anyone with pics of where these freeze plugs are?        
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Replies:
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 12:52am
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Very cool. let me know if you are looking for an assistant who doesn't know what he's doing. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 1:09am
| Pretty engine and boat. We will get you running again. |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 1:59am
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Nice purchase! Freeze plug isn't the end of the world (hopefully) just inspect closely for cracks. Trailer looks like it could be brought back to original with the help of some Tim Benjamin fenders and a bow stop! Wix 51515 for the filter. ------------- |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 3:31am
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Very Nice! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 8:10am
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David, Nice find!  Good luck on the engine. I sure hope it's OK. For oil, I suggest 20-50 with a good ZDDP content like Valvolene VR1. All the gel chips on the chines and stem are a pretty easy fix with a gel kit. FYI, the cotter on the prop nut is bent the wrong way. The one leg of the cotter gets bend over a nut flat and the other can be cut short or bent length wise parallel to the shaft. It's a very common mistake. Keep us posted on the engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 9:48am
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Another 16 footer for the Badin Lake event ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 11:15am
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So quick order of near term events to come. Let me know if and where I am off: -tonight. Pour a couple oz atf in each plug. Let soak til weekend -detailed visual inspection of block for cracks -put new freeze plugs in (any explanation on this process and placement?). I plan to look for the holes, feel around them for issues and then put the new plugs in and tighten. -weekend, turn engine with bar (there is an arrow on the main wheel, no?) -check water pump impeller. Plan to replace before trying to start in the future -if it turns (how many turns to get oil around?), hook up battery and compression test if the starter works and the wiring is ok? Or should we be looking to drive the oil pump with a drill. I read about this in the latest promo thread, although this engine has run more recent. Oil visually looks good on the dipstick. Should we change it before any of this process? Or change it after we test the block? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 11:16am
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As I told David, the trailer looks to be quite a bit older than the boat. 4-lug hubs, raised coupler, early guide post style and cross members that don't extend at all (front) or minimally (rear) past the angle where the fenders are mounted. It would have had curved fenders on it originally, the square ones would have nowhere to mount. I'd be putting a cc-style bow stop on it in any case- either low or high style would be a big improvement over what's on there now. Let us walk you through the engine... this is going to predate most marine mechanics expertise. You'll get better advice here. |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 11:25am
| That looks like a nice clean starting point and I love the early yellow Tiques/Nautiques. Well Done! |
Posted By: ScottZ
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 12:18pm
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Nice find! ------------- Scott Zuelzke Lake Mitchell , AL 1984 Ski Nautique 1972 Skier |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 1:09pm
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Well David it starts out all innocent, you buy your first Correct Craft and tell your wife this will be great for the family. Pretty soon 1 just isn't enough, you find yourself obsessively searching Craigslist for just a little something to spice things up, next thing you know you are towing home a Tique, after some polish and wrenching you need more, pretty soon adding a Promo just isn't taking away the edge, before you know it you are strung out on Mustangs yet still trying to score another Skier, eventually your yard will be filled with trailers and boat hulls will be hanging from trees in your yard. Welcome to the multi CC family!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 1:28pm
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We picked up our '78 2 years ago with the same situation. The freeze plugs are along the sides of the block above the oil pan. Some of them are tough to get at because stuff is in the way. We bought some rubber compression plugs which were easier to install so we could get it running in the driveway. Quinner's correct. It is a sickness, especially those decent looking fixer uppers like yours. I hope you have good luck and no freeze damage! |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 1:44pm
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Thanks to all for the replies. The seller handed me some rubber stoppers with nuts in the end, both in original packaging and two brass discs (assume these were the original plugs). Which to use? The rubber ones look like no explanation needed. Explain the brass if I should use them. I'll take pics tonight of the choices. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 1:49pm
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http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=installing+freeze+plugs+in+engine&qpvt=installing+freeze+plugs+in+engine&FORM=VDRE" rel="nofollow - How to install block core plugs aka: freeze plugs Bruce is correct. you may nee to remove things like the manifolds to replace the plugs. Rubber to me is temporary and very back yard. When you get it running, take the time to get the brass installed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 2:01pm
| The rubber is fine to get it running in the driveway. No sense taking the time to do it the "right way" if the block is cracked. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 2:03pm
| Manifolds won't be in the way, but the starter might be (usually it's the rear plugs that pop). Mounts may block access if it's a front plug for some strange reason. Agree with Pete, use the brass if you have enough access to tap them with a hammer (and large socket). I've gotten lucky in the past once or twice when the core plugs popped and prevented further freeze damage... obviously that isn't always the case. Hope it is this time though! |
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 2:40pm
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I have had success utilizing a hardwood dowel / broom handle when installing the freeze plugs. Keep the paddle out of it ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 2:52pm
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David, Great looking boat, and nice find. I figured your next one would be a large Vee Drive for the family. Please do not call them freeze plugs, they are casting plugs. Now I feel better. Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 3:43pm
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When tapping a freeze plug into a tight space I have used a socket as already mentioned but I added a 6 inch extension and knocked it in with the extension and a hammer. Choose a socket that fits the freeze plug well so it knocks it in without deformation. Make sure the freeze plug hole is clean and free of rust so you get a good seal and don't distort your new plug on install. It does not take a large hit to knock a freeze plug in. Knock them in just till flush with your block. I usually put a thin coat of gasket sealant around the hole in the block to fill any small nicks or possible leak paths before installing the plug. Since these are a metal to metal seal any scratch in the block can be a leak path. If you make a mistake and the plug is knocked in crooked it can leave a leak path. I would start over with a new plug. For $2. it is not worth risking a leak. ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 3:44pm
| They are core print plugs Donaldo |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 3:53pm
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David Marty here. What you forget about me? I like road trips too! Give me a call or email and I'll help you out. ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 3:57pm
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Not to worry. I have to get my direct drives while I can. Ridgely has been asking about a vdrive for a while. Will get a 210 someday to replace the sport I guess. Sad, but my plan is to have at least one or two other direct drives as dad's ski boats. This is a step in that direction. Just hope she runs again. And Marty, I didn't forget about you...mentioned you to Jesse yesterday as we were looking at the decals that are missing or in rough shape. Jesse and I have been talking about a project boat for a while. Our wives are worried it will be a time sink. We have reassured them that it WILL be. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 6:37pm
Hollywood, correction noted. I do realize you are an Engineer for a Metal Casting Company, or something in that industry. I am sure you do know what you are taking about. I am just trying to keep David out of trouble. Speaking of trouble, David you may inspect that fuel line to the carb. It is hard to see from the photo and it actually looks like two tubes running side by side. Make sure the line handling the fuel is solid metal and not rubber. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Hollywood wrote:Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 6:59pm
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There are two tubes. A clear rubber tube that runs the entire length and a metal tube that runs to the carb. Note in the pic that where the metal goes to the carb it bends the 90degree turn with a thick black rubber hose with hose clamps to the carb and to the metal tube. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 7:01pm
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Why can't I quick reply from my iPhone? Also, how to post pics from iPhone? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 7:03pm
Can't and can't. Or at least I don't know how. Photobucket for the latter. That engine is so clean I completely overlooked the Edelbrock. Fine on Chryslers but I'd be searching for a 450cfm Holley marine unit with a proper metal fuel line. Not before getting the engine running (probably), but I'd put it on the list. |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 7:58pm
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Is the edlebrock stock? Is it an issue or is the Holley just preferred? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 8:50pm
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I don't think an Edlebrock marine carb was used on anything originally. Holley's and Quickfuel's are preferred,(the Holley's being oem) but some people particularly on other sites like them. If it works for you,you can leave it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 9:33pm
| Sounds like you're starting a self-help group! Correct Craft's Anon! |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-27-2017 at 11:39pm
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I've run an Edelbrock/Carter AFB on three boat engines and liked them a lot. Two 351W's and one 460 Ford. More reliable than the Holley in my experience and easy to fine tune. If hooked up correctly they are safe. I know Dyno operators that have tested Holley vs Carter/Edelbrock and the Holley always will have a few more horsepower, usually less than a 10 HP difference but if that is your goal go Holley. I would not throw out a Edelbrock just because of the brand they actually work really well with not much effort. ------------- |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 12:05am
A Carter AFB, an Edelbrock and a Weber marine 4 barrel as used by Mercruiser for several years are all remarkably similar. Lots of parts interchange. The Weber and the Edelbrock are practically identical, You'd think that Weber produces the Edelbrock for them or something  You might find one of those Webers on a Malibu with the 5.7 competion ski engine, lots of those sold over the years or on a whole pile of Mercruiser I/O's too. |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 12:59am
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Just had a good night. Took the spark plugs out and put atf in each hole. Man the plugs on the port side are tough to get to. Starboard side was a breeze in comparison. Good news is I saw no cracks, but I hear they would be tiny and I don't know what I'm looking for. So take that for what it's worth. Next step freeze plugs, casting plugs, whatever. Of the 6, 4 were popped out. One had a rubber gasket and one is intact. Not the best of signs. See rust in there, figure we will vacuum. The plugs will be tight to try to get back in. The forward two on both sides are partially blocked by the motor mounts. There is room to get the plug lined up but will be tough to get force on them to knock them in. Jesse will post pics tomorrow. Any tricks? Will put a bar on the engine this weekend. Question, when looking at the engine from the helm, which way to turn the bar on a reverse rotation engine. Looked at the pulley and saw no arrow. Thanks! ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 3:06am
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Carter owned the AFB and had all the molds and patents. With the advent of Fuel Injection and quickly declining Carburetor sales Carter partnered with Webber to build the AFB for them. The intent was for Carter to still have the AFB for sale and Webber to produce it for just Carter. Carter did not have a good legal team and Webber was able to loophole around and sell the AFB to Edelbrock who put this carb out everyplace and did very well with it. Later after the agreements expired Webber started selling them under their own name. They are all the same basic carb. Carter was screwed over on the deal, Edelbrock made a ton of money selling the AFB and Webber did well. There you have it, 3 names, one carb. ------------- |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 11:05am
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David, Ski Dim , aka discount inboard marine in Little Mountain, SC has the solid metal fuel lines. That metal to rubber is not correct. Maybe the metal lines that they sell are for the Holley. They may have others. Use Malibu as a discount code to save 10%. My guess is they removed the Holley and cut the metal line to make the other carb fit. I could be wrong. Rubber lines do not meet Coast Guard regulations. However, you are unlikely to get checked by Coast Guard, but it is a safety issue anyway. Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 11:26am
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That won't work Don,those fuel lines are for Holley carbs with the inlet on the front,his Edlebrock has the inlet on the opposite corner out the side. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jarrell001
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 12:06pm
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Hi, I'm Jesse. I bought the other half of this boat with David. I have attached the pictures that David references in his prior post. Freeze Plugs: Has anyone had success putting all brass plugs back in the motor without removing the engine? I have two ideas. 1. Could I create a metal disk that i can temporarily glue to the plug, and then pry the plug into place. I would be pushing agains the motor mount 2. Can the engine mounts be removed one at a time to make room to tap in the plugs? If yes, How close will the shaft alignment be to it's original location? Fuel Line: I have attached a picture of the fuel line entering the carburetor. A portion of the line, that is not show in the attached picture appears to be metal covered in rubber and held in place with hose clamps. Could this be true of the section shown in the attached picture? |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 12:09pm
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Hmmm, keep posting updates. If Frankenotter has his way this thread will be useful in the future... Love that Yellow, that thing is going to be SOOOO COOOLLL!!!! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: jarrell001
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 12:17pm
Hopefully these images work.... 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 12:29pm
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David, I also suggest getting the rubber expansion plugs for the core holes. Get them in and then get the engine running to check making sure the block isn't cracked. Don't worry about the brass at this time. If the engine is good, then removing one mount at a time is fine but I'd also get a bottle jack between the stringer and the exhaust manifold. Alignment should be checked but it should be checked anyway. Barring the engine over, direction really doesn't matter but, go clockwise otherwise you'll just loosen the bolt on the crank!. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 1:09pm
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I agree with Pete, use rubber plugs to find out if this engine is intact. I have known guys that ran with rubber plugs for years with no issue. Brass is better but at this time you want to know if your block is still good. With this many plugs popped out the odds of the block not being damaged are small. Sorry but I have seen blocks cracked with only one plug pushed out. You can put the plugs in and then cap off all the coolant lines and pressurize the block with air to test it. Don't use more than 35 PSI of air pressure or you may create new leaks by blowing out your water pump or thermostat gaskets. I did this to my brothers 460 Ford last year searching for leaks. It was not hard to plug all the exit holes and hook up an air line with a ball check valve to allow shutting the air off. Once pressurized test your connections and plugs with soap and water spray. Leaks will show up quickly. Patch the connection leaks then run pressure up to 35 PSI close the ball check valve and wait several hours. If you have a cracked block or leaks the pressure will reduce quickly. If it holds 35 PSI you are good to go! PS: when you bleed down the air do it slowly. I opened the ball check on mine the first time I used it and blew dirty block rusted water 20 feet across my garage. You only make that mistake once. What a mess. ------------- |
Posted By: jarrell001
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 1:12pm
| It is a space issue. We can't get the rubber plugs to slide anywhere close to the hole because of the engine mounts are in the way. I would slant there is about 1" of clearance. The rubber plugs we were able to find are about 2" thick. If we have to take of the engine mounts, would we be better off to go ahead with the brass plugs? |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 1:23pm
| I think we used a combination of both plugs. We had 4 or 5 that popped out including by the engine mounts. . You don't have to get the plugs in perfectly like your going to be using the boat. Just enough to hold the water. Maybe you can tap a metal plug at an angle and it will seal well enough? That's what we did. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 2:43pm
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Probably gotta support the engine and pull the mount. Might as well put a brass plug in if you're going through that trouble, in case the block gets a clean bill of health. Before you consider keeping the edelbrock, you need to confirm it's a marine carb. Then you will likely need a $70 fuel line (or bend your own) as the $15 hard line that's readily available is Holley specific. Edelbrocks can also be sensitive to installed angle, plus it's likely quite a bit larger than the 450cfm 302's came with (believe 600cfm is the smallest marine eddy). Lots of potential stumbling blocks, which is why I'd swap a Holley on and call it done! |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 2:44pm
| since the motor mounts are in the way of installing the core/casting plugs, its not such a bad idea to block up the motor and remove the motor mount while installing, then replace. I am sure that the alignment will need to be checked on the motor anyway, and while the mounts are out, you can loosen them up and anti-seize them in preparation for the alignment. I also like to put a little sealant on the casting plugs before installing them, it helps if the block is pitted in that area. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 3:56pm
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David and Jesse, http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21279&title=shaft-strut-alignment-video" rel="nofollow - Here's a video on alignment. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 4:08pm
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If water is spraying all over, alignment isn't going to stop that. What ever plugs you choose to use, get them in and fire it up. If it's good then take the time to align it. If it's not you didn't waste any thing to align 'cuz it's coming out! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 4:12pm
Bingo |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2017 at 4:27pm
I certainly agree but 20 minutes ago, Jesse was doing a search for "alignment" so I thought I'd be helpful and post a link. Do you think he may be planning ahead?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-03-2017 at 4:45pm
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Going to turn the engine tomorrow. Should we remove the valve covers and lube the valve springs, carrier, lifters and cams? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-03-2017 at 5:19pm
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Yes definitely. The owners manual for Holman Moody actually tells you to do that before initial startup after storage ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-03-2017 at 7:02pm
| Running 3 years ago? I wouldn't bother. |
Posted By: Fabcon
Date Posted: March-04-2017 at 6:49pm
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Looks like a very clean boat to start with, good luck with the motor ------------- 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1984 Barefoot Nautique (Parting Out) |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-04-2017 at 9:23pm
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Ok, we only had 2 hrs but got a ways. -turned the engine with a bar...no problem. smooth. -checked the waterpump. while the impeller was a little disformed, it was plyable and decent looking. We plan to replace. Was a jabsco model 17410-0001. Looked it up online and found the impeller easy. But the gaskets that come with they new ones don't look like my pump. -hooked up the battery and turned the engine. videos coming soon. not as strong as we would like but will look forward to hearing your thoughts. Jesse has the video coming later. Our friend brought a deep cycle battery which Jesse and I replaced with a proper starting batt. -All of the gauges moved when batt was hooked up. And starter spun well but had a hitch in its step. -We are well on our way to replacing all of the casting plugs. May be there now that I left (jesse had one more to do when I left.) -We were testing compression but are hoping the ATF in the cylinders was hurting our readings. May have ruined my tester. Couldn't get a good read. Up down, up down and again. Thoughts??? -I was washing my hands when I heard the boat fire up...good news, but we didn't have water at the time so we shut her down ASAP and then disconnected the fire to the distributor. So, plan is to fire it up on the hose ASAP and see what we have. Excited, but figure there is something in the block not quite right (would be amazing otherwise). Plan is to start her up, let her run at idle in order to get the ATF out of the cylinders and then test the compression (if my tester is still good). Thoughts???? Obviously if there is water spewing, we know we are screwed. But anything else? We know she will fire. Compression is the next game, but I fear we have screwed up my tester with ATF getting shot in it????? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-05-2017 at 2:00am
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You said it popped a plug in 2013, so your brief turn over was the first time it spun in at least 3 years, maybe longer. You said the oil looked ok, but the engine has to be pretty dry. You already spun it over with the spark plugs in so maybe you got some oil flow, but not sure how long you spun it for. Priming the engine would be a good step, but maybe that cat's out of the bag already. It would be nice to have some oil flow before you start it. If you already did this and I missed it I'll apologize in advance. If not a proper priming then spinning it over with the starter with all the spark plugs out is another way to build oil pressure with minimum stress on the rotating parts. You can check compression later once you see if you have a block issue or not. If things go well you can run it for a while, then go back and check compression. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Waldo
Date Posted: March-05-2017 at 6:44pm
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Love that Yellow. Waldo |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-05-2017 at 8:53pm
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Hey, good progress it runs! Since you already started it I would go to the next step and hook up your water supply and fresh gas and fire it up. Watch the oil pressure like a hawk. You should have good oil pressure in a running engine in less than 5 seconds. Keep the RPM low at first, verify oil pressure and listen for any odd noises/knocks in your engine. Listen to the exhaust to make sure you have 8 smoothly hitting cylinders. This check should be done in the first minute of run time. If all is good I would bump the RPM to 2,000 and keep it there for 5 minutes while watching oil pressure and temperature close. Make sure the choke opens properly after warm up. Make sure you thermostat opens, should open around 140 degree's and the temp should not rise from this temp.. Verify your charging system is working. If it runs well and you still have no odd noises do a water test and see what it does under a load. Run it as long as you wish on this water test but if you are in a river go upstream! If it dies it is nice to have the current take you home rather than farther away. The water test will properly load your piston rings. If all is good they will not need to seat in. If you had minor cylinder rust from the boat sitting for 3 years the water test will fully load pressure on the piston rings and they will either seal right a way or not. After this water test if all is good I would change the oil again to remove any rust that may have mixed with your oil. Remember rust can form just by pulling moisture out of the air inside an engine. If your block has a crack that allows a slow leak into your boat, and not inside your engine you could live with it. Boats have a constant supply of cool water so a small leak will not cause you an overheat but might make you run the bilge pump once in a while until you repair the engine block. ------------- |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-05-2017 at 9:48pm
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All plugs are in. Think tomorrow night may be on the hose. How do you make sure the choke opens properly? And the thermostat? Where do we test the charging system. Just test at the batt and look for 13-14 volts to see that the alternator is turning power (more than when it is off)? Our electronics are showing some issue. May be a ground issue? We were trying all of the switches tonight and they all worked (bilge, blower, horn, nav). Then all of a sudden they didn't, nor did the ignition switch. We got a meter on them and there was 10-11 volts but they wouldn't work. We jiggled it a bit and they started working again. something loose or a bad ground? Thanks for all of your collective insight thus far. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-05-2017 at 9:57pm
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Check choke by removing flame arrestor & looking. Thermostat, if you don't have confidence in the dash gauge, then maybe take it out & put it in a pan of water on the stove. Use a cooking thermometer to see at what temp it opens up. One could buy a $15 IR thermometer. Or just feel the block to see if it is warm to the touch Voltage should be 13-14 V with engine running. Any hot lead connected to alternator output should register this. Good luck! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 12:17am
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We started her up tonight. Seems like good news. Videos follow. The choke set. The alternator worked. Hooked to a hose only at first, then started. Only leaks were drips and were from the following, the water pump gasket, the gaskets on the rear of the exhaust manifolds and one of the hose clamps. Then we sucked ~4qts of oil out and plan to fill and change filter Thurs. Then splash on Sat. Video 1 is of hose only. Video 2 is of idle. Video 3 is of 2000 RPM. Note that the temp gauge did start to rise once we cut off the video so that seems to work too. Ran for about 10min. Let me know what you engine gurus think of the sounds. We have a tough time to hear if it is missing, or knocking, etc. We can siphon out old gas and add new but it seems to run fine. Thoughts on regular or premium gas? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mPNWb6pkiUY" rel="nofollow - Video 1 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9AzxzFUsxIw" rel="nofollow - Video 2 - Idle https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NTtawOhemyU" rel="nofollow - Video 3 - 2000RPM ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 12:46am
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Is your grass green already? ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 2:13am
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It's so hard to pick out sounds ..... I thought I heard a ticking, maybe lifter noise, at idle, couldn't pick it up in the 3rd video. Congrats on the block, if no cracks. I don't remember if oil was discussed in this thread, run some Valvoline VR1 20W50 or similar. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 6:16am
I don't think oil type was discussed and David's comment is important. With your flat tappet engine, you what an oil with ZDDP. VR1 20-50 is a good choice but there are others. I run the VR1 in all my old engines. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 8:51am
Almost Steve http://s934.photobucket.com/user/inboardfan/media/0D0BBFFD-4CE7-42CD-AC2D-6E76D0F5F00B_zps0tc6yxlq.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  [/IMG]------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 9:21am
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89 is the official recommendation but with such a low CR some run 87 without issue. 91-93 is a waste. Change the impeller and set the timing before splashing if you haven't already. Be on the lookout for hull leaks and bring a paddle! Sounded like an exhaust leak to me. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 9:32am
| Sounds good. A lot better than ours did. |
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 9:49am
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David, I can leave my trusty paddle on the dock for you if you promise to return when done.  ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 9:53am
HA!!! Thought I saw that in the video. Hey great job on the re-start, sounds good. Good Luck on the water test. Take a ski too, just in case it is running "that good"! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 11:06am
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First the important stuff. Yes the grass is green, year round. Tall fescue so it doesn't go dormant. It is however growing a LOT earlier this year. I have mowed twice. All videos have been at Jesse's house thus far so I can't take credit for his plush lawn. On oil, I run mobile one 15w50 in my 99 and I plan to do the same in here. It is what I have easily found at the store. You all put me in that. We will feel for the exhaust leak tim mentions. An impeller is on the list. As for timing, we don't have that capability. Will someone please bring their timing light to white lake and give us a tutorial? Thanks Greg, we have a paddle. What we need is a friend at the lake but you are going to the keys! Also, any engine treatments recommended? Sea foam or the like? I seem to remember people around here frowning on them ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 9:12pm
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Sea foam is OK in the gas, but not OK in oil. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 9:23pm
I really have no opinion one way or another on Sea Foam but the Sea Foam people would tend to disagree about the "not OK in oil" part See link to website https://seafoamsales.com/" rel="nofollow - Sea Foam website |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-08-2017 at 12:49am
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We feel like we hear some off putting noise in the 3rd video...the one at 2000 RPM. We think we hear knocking/ticking on the port side in the valves. Are we hearing things??? Should we be making any adjustments before a water test due to this sound? Would love some engine gurus to give some advice. Or does that directly relate to the advice to time the engine? We are also trying to learn more about our engine. We believe our firing order to be 13726548 which I thought was for a reg rotation engine. We got this by locating 1 on the distributor and then going clockwise around (I believe on a reg rotation you find 1 and go counter clockwise around the dist). Our engine does spin counterclockwise when looking at the pulleys from the bow. It is a 302 commander and I can't find the order stamped on it or on a label. Nor can I find 351 under the valve covers (I have read a bunch of threads). ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-08-2017 at 1:12am
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First congratulations on the fire up, second I have to share a warning. Running an engine on old gas can lock up your valves in the heads forcing valve job on your heads. Running on old fuel will first show with an odd smell in your exhaust. Hard to describe but once you smell it you will remember it. The old fuel will burn bad and coat the pistons and valves with a varnish like stinky substance that will end up sticking your valves. I have seen this many times in my career and would not wish it on anyone. Drain your old fuel and replace it with new. Stabil only keeps fuel good for 6 mos if you read their labels, Sea Foam claims it will keep fuel good for one year. I think this boat sat for 3 years. Drain and replace before you stick valves. Our local UPS yard switched their trucks to diesel. They let the old Gas pump sit for almost a year and then to get rid of it offered free gas to employees, first come first serve. Those that had tanks with 1/4 or less of fuel and took on nearly a full load all had engine failure. Those with 1/2 tank or more had enough fuel to dilute it but some of those had engine failure. When they come in for repair you can smell the bad gas varnish from 10 feet away. Classic car owners will overhaul their engines, sometimes these guys take 6 mos or more before they re install and start the new engine. I have seen or heard of many of those having this issue. Sometimes guys get away with year old gas but not often. 3 year old gas I would not even consider trying. ------------- |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-08-2017 at 1:46am
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I got to listen to the video's you posted on you tube. Love and miss that sound. The old straight pipe engines sound perfect. The noise you were hearing on the passenger side seemed to be constant and I thought I heard the noise as you let off the throttle. Exhaust noise is louder as you accelerate and less when you let off. The rhythmic sound heard sounded like a valve/lifter/rocker arm to me because it was quieter at higher RPM and there as you let off the throttle but hard to say for sure with only a video for reference. Put new gas in it and see what you have on the water. The reason for running at 2,000 as soon as possible after start up is to get your lifters spinning again. If any of the 16 lifters refuses to spin it will cause a camshaft failure and you don't want that. The higher RPM encourages those lifters to start working properly right away. This was just a safety step after the long sit. Very nice boat you found. ------------- |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-08-2017 at 6:15am
Dist spins CCW for either a standard or RR Ford engine. That would make your firing order: 1 8 4 5 6 2 7 3 . Your wires are on correctly. Yours IS a RR engine. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: jarrell001
Date Posted: March-10-2017 at 12:05am
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Hello all, Tomorrow afternoon, David and I will attempt to adjust the valves to rid our slight engine noise. We have seen several on line videos and will attempt to copy a method that involves setting top dead center on the cylinder, tightening the rocker until the rod stops turning, and then turning one full turn more. While examining the rockers, we have noticed that there the rods have slightly different tension levels depending on which top dead center we are on (compression vs exhaust). Which top dead center should we be on to adjust the valves, or is the difference negligible? Also, thank you so much for all the help so far! - JHJ |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-10-2017 at 8:26am
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That method doesn't work for non adjustable valvetrain. The ticking sound is unlikely to be valve noise that can be solved by adjusting preload (a head rebuild along the way would have created greater lifter preload, not a lack of it). Did you investigate the exhaust leak? Because that's what it sounds like to me. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-10-2017 at 8:53am
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I didn't hear anything that would give me pause about running the engine. Based on how long it has sat, I think fresh oil and some time running on the water would be a good idea before worrying about valve train or other internal issues. Obviously listen closely for something serious, but nothing I heard in that video would suggest you shouldn't run the engine. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-10-2017 at 10:28am
Like Tim said, nothing you can do adjustment wise in your situation. If it is a lifter/valvetrain issue, it's most likely a lifter since it sat for 3 years and if you take the boat and "run it like you stole it" for a while along with your recent fresh oil change, the noise might just disappear.like 63 skier suggested. I'd check for an exhaust leak like Tim mentioned.too It won't disappear. Doesn't take much of a leak and it can be hard to find sometimes. It's easy to confuse an exhaust leak with lifter noise. You never know, you might have some 38 year old exhaust gaskets in there that need replacing |
Posted By: jarrell001
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 5:11pm
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So just a quick update. On Friday, we put fresh gas and sea foam in the boat. We then ran the boat on the hose and still heard the ticking sound. We used a section of garden hose to listen with the valve covers off and confirmed that 7 and 8 were the source of the issue. We pulled the rods from those cylinders, cleaned and inspected them and when we put it back together, the sound was gone. I have no idea what fixed the problem. Some times you just get lucky. We then ran the boat on Saturday morning at the lake. It started great and ran well in the 35 degree weather. Top end was about 45mph at about 4400RPM. Oil pressure was fine. Engine temp was about 150. It did climb to about 165-170 at WOT, but quickly went down at cruising speeds. I was expecting closer to 140 degrees. Any opinions on this temp? Our water drip issues at the knuckle at the end of the exhaust manifold resolved itself as well. Initially the shaft log took on water at a quick rate, roughly 4 drips per second. After running for 10 minutes, I would say we had 1 drip per second. We will be investigating shaft log threads and keeping an eye on this. We also noticed that the boat sits a bit lower in the water than expected. Maybe we have some wet foam? (David may have some pictures.) All in all, the day was very much a success. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 6:23pm
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Congratulations, sounds like you have a good boat for summer. The heating at high RPM is odd, normally you have so much water flow at high RPM the temp will stay dead on the thermostat temp. 140 for your boat. A new thermostat may help this issue. If you were sucking air it would affect you at low RPM's. I am sure the experienced members on this forum will help with this issue. You did recover all the freeze plugs you replaced? I have hear of one guy knocking the old plugs into the engine and leaving them there, this caused a flow issue affecting the cooling. Temp climbing while running hard is a concern you should fix right away. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 7:27pm
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Jesse, I feel the engine temp rising under full load WOT is normal although the 170 is on the high side. If you have or can borrow one, a I.R. temp gun comes in handy to check what your gauge is saying. Shoot the block temp as close to the temp sender as possible. Also, voltage and resistance comes to play on a gauge. Check the voltage going to the gauge. Resistance between the gauge and sender can also be checked. Clean up all the terminals/connections between the two (I'd also go after cleaning up all the electrics on the boat) I've seen close to a 3 volt voltage drop up to the dash due to corrosion. The results you are getting on the engine running sure are encouraging! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 9:17pm
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It was a successful couple of days. Jesse highlighted most of our successes and issues. I am thrilled so far. All gauges worked including the airguide. The boat is rewinterized (we are getting multiple nights in a row in the low 20s this week) in Jesse's barn. The temp issue is one we want to solve soon. I am planning on a new tstat. A Napa 140 EDF was recommended. Can someone show us in a pic where the tstat is located. Is it in a rubber housing on the port side? Jesse also mentioned the boat floating just a touch low. The platform is riding half in the water for reference. Pic doesn't show well since Jesse is the only one in and on the driver side. Thoughts? Some videos and pics follow. I know everyone likes pics and videos so I hope I don't put up too many. My video work wasn't the best. One has us discussing the RPM as we had already gone WOT once and failed to watch the RPM. We were using my iphone gps for MPH. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_qNbR6uLHq8" rel="nofollow - Video 4 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w4JH-zXZNO4" rel="nofollow - Video 5 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qgcpZeebo_k" rel="nofollow - Video 6 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5UXgoVHjex8" rel="nofollow - Video 7      ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 9:42pm
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looking good guys, can't wait for a ride ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 9:57pm
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David, Don't expect the engine to run at 140 with a 140 T stat. It will run higher depending on the load. I'd say about 160 would be normal. You could have some wet foam but looking at the pictures and vids, not much. My Tique's platform is just about the water level. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JDD33
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 10:15pm
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Wow!! That boat looks and sounds great! It looked good on the trailer and even better on the lift!! A new impeller and thermostat, check all the hoses and hose clamps and you should be good. The engine does run warmer than 140, upward of 160 normally. The t-stat just opens fully at 140. The small boats are really affected by weight, full tank of fuel couple guys in the boat and it seriously affects how they sit in the water. Yours looks like it's just about right. Cool Boat !!! I'm with Adam, can't wait for a ride! ------------- Old school goin back to school! |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 10:18pm
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Jesse and David, you've got to be smiling every waking moment. You didn't just get lucky, you've got a real gem of a boat there. Looks great, sounds great, I was a Tique admirer in my teens, remember well the nose high ride at times of ones on our lake. Gorgeous boat! Doesn't look low in the water to me, if you have wet foam it can't be much. As for the temps, if it was me I'd look into that issue next November. An engine that runs rock steady on temp, then spikes a bit at WOT, and comes right back down isn't a problem. Sure, check connections, maybe change the stat if you want, cheap enough, but doubt anything is wrong. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 10:40pm
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We did put a new impeller in before we splashed her. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-12-2017 at 11:47pm
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WOW looks great on the lift. Time to enjoy it. Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-13-2017 at 1:02am
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Contrary to what is being posted above, it is NOT normal for temps to creep up while running hard. Temps creeping up AFTER a hard run can be (mostly) normal. If the impeller you just put in is a good high quality oem and not a Sierra, the RWP itself is the next most likely culprit, Keep a close eye on the temp gauge to see if this behavior gets worse. 170 isn't concerning in and of itself but it's not right. Did you ever get a timing light on it? Looking good for sure! Position in water looks normal for a 16'. |
Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: March-13-2017 at 12:03pm
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The sound of those boats under acceleration never gets old. Nice boat. Looks like fun. ------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-13-2017 at 1:11pm
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We put a jabsco impeller in. No timing yet. Need to get a light and read up on that. We are working on the trailer as well. Where would the VIN most likely be located? I haven't found it yet. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-13-2017 at 2:28pm
David, It could be stamped on the axel. I would also be looking at the tongue near the hitch for some numbers stamped. About nine years ago, I went through the NC process of tagging a trailer with no title. If the trailer can pass for homemade, it is a simple process. However, if that is not likely, there is a process to go through with the state that I can give you some help with. It is not pretty, but doable. It involve getting a bond to protect the state if the trailer is stolen. Basically, you are buying the state a three year insurance policy if it turns out the trailer is stolen. Just let me know if you need some info on that deal. I saved my paperwork. Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-13-2017 at 2:43pm
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The boat sounds great. Looks like you got a bargain. Watching your video where it shows the engine running with the cover up. The water pump belt looked very loose to me. Could be a source of your high RPM temp rise. ------------- |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: April-02-2017 at 10:17pm
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Great call on the belt being too loose. Took the boat out today and the temp stayed right under 160. Went a little over at WOT. Did some cleaning and a trailer switch in prep for White Lake. A tique on my sport trailer is funny looking but we have a ways to go for long trips on the original trailer. Question: Is there a way to remove the Pitot without unscrewing from the transom. There looks to be a pin. I want to take it off bc it is in danger of getting hurt by the bunks on my sport trailer. Any thoughts? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-02-2017 at 10:31pm
David, The pitot is spring loaded. Flip it up out of the way. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: April-12-2017 at 12:03am
Thought you all would get a kick out of some pics of the Tique's trailer empty. This trailer has been through a lot! It looks like it has been worked on so for now we are going to keep using it and keep our eye out for others. It was jack knifed at some point and it looks like it was straightened (some) and the post moved to the center. The measurements from hitch to hub are equal and it seemed to tow well when we brought her home.    The previous owner also overloaded the trailer coming from Wisc to NC. The tires are bad, tread worn completely off of the insides. We have new tires. We also put a laser on the axle and it looks straight. Would you suspect that the spindles or hubs are messed up? Or could the load have just flexed the axle assembly and not permanently messed it up? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: April-17-2017 at 12:38am
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Have a 12x14 prop on the Tique now. Specifically the prop reads 12ELLIS14R. Would we get noticeably better performance out of a different prop? Anyone have one for sale or for trial at White Lake? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-17-2017 at 1:36am
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I had a 13 x 14 on my 78 Nautique and really liked it. We did not use it in a short course where faster acceleration might have been needed but the engine worked well with the 13 x14. Your 12x14 on the lighter boat should be about right unless you are in elevation all the time. 3,000 foot plus maybe. It is at least a good starting point. ------------- |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: May-12-2017 at 5:00pm
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Boat hasn't been driven since White Lake. While there we learned a lot and got started on a tune up. From the White Lake thread: Thanks Donald for the shout out for the tow of shame. Thank goodness that electrical gremlin surfaced late in the day, it had come and gone another time with us not getting the chance to chase it. Unfortunately it came back during a tune up lesson that Tim Benjamin and Dave Hart were giving me (we didn't have a VOM or test light on the water to track it down so a tow was in order). Thanks to Mark and Patrick (Team PCM) for finding the elec issue quickly on dry land. And Tim stepped up Sunday morning and gave a tutorial on points and setting timing before hitting the road for his long trip back to CT. I had a great time and learned a lot, and of course saw old friends and met new ones. Hope to see you all at Badin later this year if not sooner. Once home we went back and forth a LOT on whether to buy a Holley or rebuild our Edelbrock due to a float level issue and a gasket leak. We looked for a deal on a Holley and found nothing. We could have bought a rebuilt unit and new flame arrestor to fit but decided for the money we would try a rebuild and wedge plate on our Edelbrock 1409. If this doesn't work well, we will keep an eye out for a Holley. Planning to pop the wedge and carb on this weekend and try to fire her back up. Wish us luck. Any tricks to priming a dry carb? ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |