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Water in oil

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40644
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 2:27am


Topic: Water in oil
Posted By: Darkwing420
Subject: Water in oil
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 2:15am
Had a lot of help from you guys on 81 ski nautique which was greatly appreciated... now I'm on to new project 79 ski nautique, still have 81 but found a deal on 79 and thought why not. Got it home hooked up hose it fired right up but after about 10 min stopped and checked oil and it was milky. It was clean when I checked it before purchasing but there was no battery to start and check it for obvious reasons. I drained oil replaced filter and refilled with oil and it seemed to get better. planned on doing this a couple more times to see where it leads, is it possible nothing is wrong and moisture just got in somehow? I don't think it's manifolds or risers because how would oil get to crank case past pistons? Oil level on dipstick didn't rise after running either so it's like there is moisture somewhere but not gaining water in oil. Should I tear down engine or keep flushing it with fresh oil. I want to resell the boat but don't feel right doing so with engine not operating the way it ought to.



Replies:
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 5:33am
Make sure it is bad before a tear down. It is possible for the headers and other sources to introduce water into the oil.
I like to pressure test the cooling system with air. I know air is not hot water so the test is not exact but it rules out about 90% of the possible water leaks into the oil.
I plug all the coolant lines that exit the engine. Hook up a air source and a gage.
Pressurize the system with 30-35 PSI of air and watch what it does.
Be careful, if you pressurize higher than 35 psi you might blow out perfectly good gaskets inside the engine. They are designed to seal less than 20 psi not higher than 35 psi.
I have a ball check set up, ( home depot part ) on my set up that allows me to pressurize and then close the ball check with the gage on the pressure side, cooling system side.
Spray down your connection and all plugs in your coolant system with a mix of water and dish soap, Dawn works fine.   If you have air leaks, even small air leaks at your connections you will see bubbles forming. Make sure all connections are not leaking.
Watch the gage, If it holds the air pressure let is sit several hours.
This will let you know if your head gaskets are sealed to water, if the thermostat, water pump etc are all sealed to water. If there is a big air leak you can hear the leak. A slow leak will be harder to find.

If the engine holds air I would suspect the Exhaust headers are leaking into your heads.
I have not tried to test these for a leak but if you pull them off you should be able to find witness marks where your leak was happening.

It takes a couple hours to test but I think that is better than pulling the engine only to find no problems inside.
Hope this helps.
Mark

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2017 at 6:39am
Originally posted by Darkwing420 Darkwing420 wrote:

I don't think it's manifolds or risers because how would oil get to crank case past pistons? .

Duck,
Water will get past the rings and is common with bad exhaust manifold. Follow Marks recommendation to narrow down the source. Also, it's possible that the water in the oil is from condensation and if the engine had been laid up for along time, the water was at the bottom of the pan and not noticed. Then, with you running it, the water was mixed into the oil. It doesn't take much water to make the oil the milky color. Keep us informed.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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