Use a Cylinder Hone on Strut?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40813
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 6:49am
Topic: Use a Cylinder Hone on Strut?
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Subject: Use a Cylinder Hone on Strut?
Date Posted: April-07-2017 at 3:24pm
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In a previous thread I mentioned that I dropped the strut in order to remove my drive shaft. Well, the strut and drive shaft came out fine, and now I'm in the process of replacing the strut bearing. Removing the old strut bearing from the strut was a b!tch. It fought me every step of the way. I finally had to press the bearing out on my HarborFreight 20 ton press. The bearing scored the inside of the strut during removal. I'm now concerned that I need to clean up the inside bore of the strut before attempting to install a new strut bearing. I purchased a new brass/rubber 6" strut bearing. My plan is to put the new strut bearing in the freezer prior to installing. However, before even attempting the install, I'm thinking about using a brake cylinder hone on the inside bore of the strut. I've got a hone that is designed for a 1-1/4" cylinder -- exactly the size of the bore of the strut. It's a ball-type silicon carbide hone. Anybody see any problems with using this hone to clean up the bore? I realize that the strut metal is much softer than a brake cylinder, so I'll be very cautious about removing too much metal. Thoughts? JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2017 at 4:16pm
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I don't see any problems with honing the strut but I do suggest measuring the ID of the bore and OD of the cutlass. They are a tight fit but you should have about .001" clearance. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-07-2017 at 6:32pm
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"Ball hones" are typically only glaze breakers. They tend to ride over any high spots. Probably cant' hurt but not sure how much it will help. A fixed or rigid hone would do better but if that is all you have then go for it. Just for clarity the bearing will have about .001" interference fit rather than clearance. Clearance and it would fall out. Get all your tools ready before you start the installation. Threaded rod and nuts with washers will work. Don't get it cocked to one side or the other. Freeze the bearing and heat the round cavity of the strut. 300 degrees or so should swell it up some. Have wet rags ready to quench the casting. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2017 at 6:37pm
JQ, Yup, Duane is correct. I stated the .001" wrong in my post. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Duane in Indy wrote:Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-07-2017 at 11:02pm
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A brake hone could get in the strut and clean it up for you. Any local Auto Parts Store should have one available if needed or maybe just a few rotations with emory cloth on your finger could clean up the rough spots. You just want to knock down the high spots and remove as little material as possible. ------------- |
Posted By: Shep72
Date Posted: April-08-2017 at 4:05am
| I would wrap some 80 grit around a dowel and knock down the high spots. You don't want to change the ID of the strut. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-08-2017 at 12:16pm
Come on guys it's a strut bearing not a crank bearing. Take a 1/2 round file knock off any burrs and put the new one in, this isn't rocket science.  I used a 1" dowel that I slightly sanded down to drive out the old bearing then a piece of all thread and washers to install the new one. http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/image_zpsbeof3y26.jpeg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-08-2017 at 1:01pm
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I tried the threaded rod and washers method at first. No luck. The threaded rod and nuts stripped and the washers bent. That's when I went with the hydraulic press. The inside of the bore is scored, and I believe that without some TLC on the strut, the interference-fit bearing won't go in damage free. My intent is to use a new piece of threaded rod and washers for the bearing re-install. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Shep72
Date Posted: April-08-2017 at 1:10pm
| Did you use a sawzall to cut the old bearing? |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-08-2017 at 1:23pm
No, I used a hand hacksaw. I was worried that the power sawzall would cut too deep and get into the base metal of the strut. The hand saw worked OK and It as a lot more precise. Update... Just finished up my driveshaft change-out project. The honed strut worked extremely well. I put the new bearing in the freezer and it went into the strut with minimal effort. The new A.R.E. drive shaft is pretty slick and installation went well with no issues. Drive shaft alignment was not spot-on so no worries there. I installed new Gore-Tex shaft packing and a new 2-piece safety collar. Good to go... JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |