Help Noob Determine Interceptor Engine Size
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40994
Printed Date: November-28-2024 at 2:45am
Topic: Help Noob Determine Interceptor Engine Size
Posted By: vandykd3
Subject: Help Noob Determine Interceptor Engine Size
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 3:38pm
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Hello, I'm a noob about engines and was given a 1968 Correct Craft with a 165hp Interceptor engine in it from my uncle. I'm trying to determine what size engine it is as I was told at the parts store they need that info to hook me with the correct parts. The model is 165RS The Spec says 104 The owners manual is here even though I can't find it anywhere inside: https://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/1968_interceptor.pdf Any help would be greatly appreciated as it needs a tune-up before it goes in this year and it's getting warm already! Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 3:59pm
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Only use a reputable inboard parts retailer as auto parts will get you in trouble quick. I can't really think of tune up parts being different for sbf. But the marine conversion companies will make a difference. Almost certainly it's a 302. Google difference between 302 vs 351. Head bolt sizes are different as is block heights. I guess it could be a 289, not sure of differences between 289vs302. I like using skidim.com. Christine's marine, N3 boat works, and nautiqueparts.com are all good too and help/sponsor this site. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 4:05pm
I'd say it's a 289 |
Orlando76 wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 6:04pm
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Here's a little reading for you https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1001784/Eaton-Interceptor-165.html?page=4#manual - interceptor manual Page 4 is pretty useful, whole manual is actually Page 1 of your original link seems to have what you need to know too. 289 raw water cooled, right hand rotation Page 19 has your firing order which is the early small block ford order not the later one that you'll see more often mentioned here on CCF. That's if the engine is original. You can check the FO by working your way around the cap counter clockwise. Page 26 has specs and 35 has a wiring diagram just to mention a few good pages. Edit.... the 2 manuals are the same depends on whether you're reading the original page numbers or the ones on the computer screen. You just subtract 3 from the numbers I mention to have the original page number printed back in 1968 that you got from the reference section. |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 8:32pm
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Thank you so much. So, I now see the info I needed was right there all along but that I didn't know that engine displacement and engine size are the same thing. I googled what engine displacement is and see it's commonly specified in (mainly in North America) cubic inches I feel a little dumb not knowing simply things you all take for granted so thanks for helping me out. I'm just going to replace the spark plugs and wires as well as the distributor and points for now as well as change the oil of course. Everyone tells me it's not that hard to do those things and my neighbor is engine savvy and ready to help. Not really sure if there's anything else I should be thinking about doing to it, but as long as it's running good, can I assume it doesn't need anything? So far, the only thing noticeable about this engine is that it doesn't start too easily. I have to engage the throttle a little to get it going then ride a fine line of keeping the throttle in the right spot while it warms up or else it'll stall. Once it's warmed up, it starts right up no problem. |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 8:41pm
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You may want to list the components you plan to use here before purchasing including the oil, Also change the trans fluid if you are unsure when it was done last. Write the hours and date on the oil filter with a sharpie for future reference. |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-02-2017 at 12:17am
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Sounds like you might be new at this, so a couple other tips as you get it water-ready. When you run it in the driveway, do not run it dry. Be sure to give it a water supply. This is most easily accomplished by removing the water intake hose from the thru-hull fitting by the transmission, sticking a garden hose into it and clamping the intake hose to the garden hose. If you have been running it dry, there is a chance that you cooked your water pump impeller. If you did run it dry, let us know and we will walk you through that check and fix. Also, once you have it running on the hose, do not put the boat in gear. You will fry the rubber bearing in the strut. As far as it not loving to start and run when cold, your tune up should address that. A little gas isnt unusual to get these old ones started. They all have their unique sweet spot. Mine likes two pumps of the throttle then a little throttle to turn the key. Usually starts right up with that. Once started, it may sound a little rough, although it should run at absolute idle, with no throttle. It may until it warms up and the choke opens all the way. Normal. |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-02-2017 at 10:12pm
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Thank you everyone for your knowledge and advice. You've really helped set me on the right path. Thankfully, I have not run the engine out of the water so I don't have to worry about that, but thanks for the warning. Since I read all your posts, I've done some research. I've learned some things and encountered needs for further advice/clarification. Spark Plugs: The manual says Champion UF9Y plugs. They're still for sale on Ebay and elsewhere, but apparently I can simply use an alternative plug. This website here has two links to alternatives and there are different plugs listed on each one. Can someone help me figure out which is correct or if there is a superior plug I should select? http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/UF-9Y http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/UF9Y Spark Plug Wires: My basic question is how do I know how to order the correct type and lengths. Am I understanding correctly that I need a stainless steel core wire for marine use? The wires are really easy to access, so would high performance wires be a waste of money? Engine oil: The manual recommends 30w (MS) for warm weather operation. What does the MS stand for? Do I simply walk into an auto parts store and ask for it? Or is this obtained from a marine supplier? Transmission Fluid: Automotive Type "A" suffix "A" is listed. Researching this got really confusing about which ATF to select as there are different brands and generations to sort through. It's looking like some formula of Dexron, but I could really use some guidance here! Distributor and points: Someone told me to replace these as part of the tune-up. The manual says distributors seldom require extensive repairs. Not sure what that would mean, but should I do this? Remember, I have help from two of my neighbors who have all the tools and enough knowledge to work on their own cars their whole lives. Other than that, I guess I need to clean the carburetor. It floods easily on a cold start and the manual says this is caused in many instances by dirt, water, or other foreign substance in the carburetor. Is this easy to do? Again, many thanks. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-02-2017 at 11:35pm
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I'll give you some suggestions in the order you asked about things. I'll say suggestions because all of this stuff have something else substituted depending on somebody's personal preference. Autolite 45 plugs will work just fine (it's a short easy to remember number  }Get a reasonably priced set of suppression type plugwires. Nothing special or marine specific about them but suppression wires keep radio interference down as you cruise by the neighbors house. The MS oil designation disappeared long ago. If you used a CJ-4 rated 15w40 diesel oil of any brand you'd be fine,but you'll get all kinds of opinions on oil Shell, Chevron, Mobil Uncle Wally's Super Tech for a few examples. A Dexron 3 transmission fluid also will be just fine. Borg Warner manuals will tell you this .Early on the Ford type A suffix A was used then Dexron 3 was recommended after that. You may want to replace the points, distributor cap and condenser not the whole distributor. You'll need to know what brand distributor you have or take a picture and post it here. You mention neighbors with experience, they should be able to help you with a carburetor job and with the distributor. If you take a picture of it with the flame arrestor removed and post it somebody will tell you what it is. Both the carburetor and distributor would have had ID tags or stamped ID's on them originally. They may still be there to help you identify them. Like I said, you'll get other opinions on most of this stuff based on personal preferences people have but all this stuff will work. |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 9:34am
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Thanks Keno. That's a great help. Looks like I'm really close to having identified all the correct parts and products to get. One final question about plug wires. When I buy them, will they automatically be the correct lengths just by telling them it's a Ford Interceptor 289? As far as the distributor goes, I took a couple pics hoping that'll help you advice me on what to get. It's a Mallory distributor, Model: YL Type: 519 BO  
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 10:24am
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https://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra-marine/sierra-marine-parts-catalog-00868.htm" rel="nofollow - Sierra marine part numbers for Mallory YL distributors Scroll down to the 519 Dearborn listing. Some plug wires may need to be trimmed in length if you purchase a kit.. For vintage engines, I've always bought wire and ends separately and make up the length needed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 11:09am
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The Sierra numbers will work if you go to your local NAPA store. Make sure you read the notes in the page Pete linked. Yhey'll tell you the complete tuneup kit with the cap is 18-5272 and the price is better than the individual parts If you want some Mallory part numbers here you go points 25042 condenser 400 cap 221 rotor 319 Keep in mind that you have the crab cap as it's called and you can't substitute a regular stack style Mallory cap because they have slightly different diameters and it would be a loose sloppy fit on your distributor. Plenty of places on line for the Sierra 18-5272, here's one example . http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=18-5272&pnumber=S185272&mfg=SIERRA&desc=Tune%20Up%20Kit&gclid=Cj0KEQjwoqvIBRD6ls6og8qB77YBEiQAcqqHeytrtfi_3GhhtziFi6y-9gtsSfa8tSflYZvpkKDoickaAotK8P8HAQ" rel="nofollow - crab cap tuneup kit |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 11:13am
What ever oil you use, make sure it has ZDDP content between 1200 and 1500 ppm, that is critical to protecting the flat tappet cam. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 11:16am
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You of all people referring him to Sierra! Let me do some searching for part numbers,l have the same distributor,got my genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Not cheap cap is 50,points around 20,rotor about 15 but good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts,the Mallory has brass. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 11:20am
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Look a couple posts back Gary, I gave him Mallory numbers. You could double check my numbers just to be sure though. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:07pm
I have got to type faster  some where though I have the official list------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:40pm
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Gary, FYI, the only reason I posted the link that has the Sierra parts is if you click on the actual part, there are OEM selections!  Also, As Ken mentioned, Napa can use part numbers to cross reference. I also printed out the list because my 312 has the Mallory and I figure in about 15 years I'll need a tune up! But, I'll also wait to see if you can find your list or use Kens. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:41pm
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I think it's in Quinner's interceptor thread that Pete actually admitted to having a Sierra tune up kit for his Dunphy but of course he never used it Quinner had the normal cap so the rotor and cap numbers would be different but the condenser and points are the same. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:47pm
Ken, You are correct regarding the Sierra kit mentioned in CQ's Classic thread. In my own defense, it was before I had access to the internet up here searching the internet wasn't as good as today plus, the real big one is I didn't ask you to come up with the part numbers! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:54pm
It's not much of a cross referencing job, since the part numbers are the same and they come from the same warehouse in Litchfield Illinois It's just one big incestuous industry where plenty of outfits are related through being bought out by bigger outfits and all those old names are either gone or owned by a big conglomerate.
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Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 2:42pm
Yup. I ordered a new mallory distributor from CP Performance in CA last year, I found them by searching the distributor. Anyway, the package arrives and its from Sierra, in the mid west (IL?) and is a Sierra part with a Sierra number. although it is the exact mallory distributor. I later learned that mallory marine sold out to/became Sierra.   ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 2:47pm
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You guys are great. Your help is making this possible for me. Can't believe there's so much nuance to parts and products! Other than hoping my new spark plus wires are the same lengths, it looks like I'm good to go. Guess I'll head over to NAPA this week(end) and pick things up unless you think I should order online from one of this sites sponsors or somewhere. Thanks! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 4:33pm
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Aw Hell, buy local at NAPA. Usually if they don't have the stuff which may very well be the case they can have it the next day. That'll keep Pete happy too
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Posted By: swilliams
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 7:29pm
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While you're in that distributor, check the advance springs. They're a little harder to come by if they're bad. ------------- 1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2017 at 7:47pm
That's an understatement.Good point Steve Every now and then a YL spring kit will show up on EBAY usually for a ridiculous price. I won't say whether or not I've paid that ridiculous price at one time though |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 12:59am
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 1:12am
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Where do you boat ? there is a reunion this July on Lake James you should plan on attending ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 1:52pm
Yo, forgive the late responses. It's a busy time of year!  So, I've gathered all your help and advice and any final questions: Spark Plugs: Autolite 45 plugs Spark Plug Wires: Reasonably priced suppression type wires. Should I buy wire and ends separately and make up the length needed as suggested by 8122pbrainard, or is there a fool proof way of getting them the correct length? Engine Oil: I'll use a 15w40 diesel oil of any brand knowing you guys have all kinds of opinions on your go-to brands! However, whatever oil I use, I'll make sure it has ZDDP content between 1200 and 1500 ppm since that is critical to protecting the flat tappet cam (whatever the hell that is  )Transmission Fluid: A Dexron 3 transmission fluid also will be just fine. Distributor: I'll replace the points, distributor cap and condenser not the whole distributor. I'll keep in mind it's a crab cap distributor and be sure to stick with that type. I'll be sure to buy the complete tuneup kit with the cap to save money. While I'm in there, I'll check the advance springs. I'll have to do some research yet on what exactly those are and how to check them, but if they're bad, am I hearing keno correctly that I'd have to look for vintage replacements that cost a *************** load!? Carburetor: I've forgotten to deal with the carburetor as mentioned by keno many posts above. He said it should have ID tags or info stamped on it to help identify it. Do I need to identify it and replace it? Or am I just cleaning it? Parts: I'll be getting this stuff from NAPA down the street from me. If I understood correctly, I can use Sierra or Mallory part numbers because they are the same number and come from the same warehouse? I'm a little confused because a few posts up, Gary S said he has the same distributor and got his genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Though they're not cheap, it's good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts while the Mallory has brass. If the part numbers are the same, how can they have different contacts? I'm hearing brass is better. Reply to dochockey: I boat on West Lake in Portage, MI about 90 minutes from Lake James. It's August 9, and I'll definitely look into attending! Final things: Other than that, I'll be sure to follow the directions in the manual when doing this work. I remember seeing in there that you have drip a few drops of this on that or smear a little bit of that there and stuff like that. Once I'm done and it's purring in the water, I'll be sure to update a pic of your handiwork! You all have been so great. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 2:18pm
You got a few names mixed up at times but who cares Gary has Mallory part numbers in the chart he posted. Can't beat Mallory parts for their distributors but the NAPA/Sierra will work fine, depends what you want to spend.. If you get a universal wire kit the wires are plenty long and you can cut them to length before installing the ends. Just clean the carburetor and install a rebuild kit. Put a picture here or some numbers from the carburetor. Put those neighbors to good use but make sure they know they're working with a reverse rotation boat engine
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Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: May-07-2017 at 9:32pm
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Did you figure out which engine you have? The casting number will give you the year. Just because the boat is a 68 doesn't mean it has a 68 engine. A lot back then had blocks and heads from the year before. My 66 Mustang had a 65 block and 64 heads. How many bolts are on the bell housing? The casting numbers will end like C8 which is 68, C7 is 67 etc. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 9:24am
Tim D, I'm pretty sure we figured it out. Not necessarily the year perhaps, but the size which is what I needed to narrow down parts and part numbers and stuff.
Keno, here's some pics of the carburetor. There is a tough-to-read stamp on one side. It's a circle with the number 120 inside and maybe some small writing around the inner circumference of the circle. Hope that's enough!   
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:08am
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The numbers on that tag that's on the float bowel screw is what you need,that's an original Autolite Ford carb. Had the same on my Holman Moody. Napa might have access to a kit ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:11am
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Looks like an Autolite 2100 to me. That tag screwed to the right front of the fuel bowl cover will have the info you need for parts, rebuild kit etc. I think that was the original equipment marine carburetor on your engine back then although it probably didn't have all the features that a later marine carburetor does. Rebuild parts or a kit are available and they're a very dependable carburetor. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:13am
I almost said Gary S can tell you about this carburetor. You're just faster than I am this morning Gary
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:46am
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I've been working on my typing It worked but I needed more power so I put on the 4bbl! A little nervous about the overflow but I never had any trouble with it. I did notice that with the Holley that it did start easier. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 12:32pm
Working on my typing too, more work needed obviously but between us we got him covered on the carburetor. At least we gave him the same info. I've had them or a variation of them on quite a few land based Fords in the 60's, 70's and 80's.. The truck that moves white stuff around in the winter still runs good with a later Autolite 2150 on it. |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 9:30pm
You know guys, the dumb thing is I saw that tag (Obviously, it's sitting right there!) but the grease was so heavy on it I thought it was the patina of the metal and nothing was written on it anymore. Hahaha. You're right of course, it's an autolite.  So, in addition to that master list of all the advice you two and everyone else gave me, I just need the info from that tag and NAPA should be able to sleuth down the correct rebuild kit? Out of curiosity, how hard is it to rebuild a carburetor? Is it even necessary? Can it simply be cleaned? I want this thing ready to rock so I'm willing to dive into whatever you tell me to as long as you believe I'm not getting in over my head. Last question, when it needs a new battery, do I get a marine battery? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 9:57pm
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You need a starting battery does not need to be marine avoid any type of deep cycle. That carb is real simple would not hurt to open it up to see if there is any crud in it and to do that you need a bowel gasket. Might as well get a kit because the accelerator pump will most likely be dried out too. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 9:57pm
Well Gary will probably beat me to an answer but starting with the battery question, just an automotive battery or a marine STARTING battery is fine. If you get a marine DEEP CYCLE battery you'll cause several people on here to have symptoms resembling a mild stroke so don't get one of those. Besides they're more expensive too It's nice to have a carburetor kit on hand if you're tearing into it....just in case. Take advantage of those neighbors you mentioned, they should have carburetor experience and you can learn from them. Not hard but some help sure won't hurt. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 9:58pm
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Dang missed it by that much. I would like to add change your plug wires one at a time, your neighbors might not know the reverse rotation firing order. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:00pm
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Wow Gary We're in sync today, my reply was longer and I type just as slow as you so I must have started typing first But again, we agree |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:01pm
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I'm on my phone and have fat fingers ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:05pm
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I don't even try it on the phone unless I really have no other choice You're good
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Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 10:48pm
You know, you could activate the microphone that's on your keyboard and simply speak your replies. Of course, be sure to proof read! Anyway, I guess the only thing I need to do now is Facebook Live the whole process and you guys and comment in real time [<:o)] I'll be sure to spritz the hull with some Axe Body Spray when I'm done so all the pontoons go wild. Seriously, though, it seems you've hooked me with all the info I need to head to NAPA. A special shout to Keno and Gary S and to everyone who's added some knowledge. I seriously couldn't have done it without you. Stay tuned for my next thread where I solicit advice and know-how about restoring it to a former ascetic glory! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 12:14am
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Yea you never really told us what it actually is ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 6:14pm
It's a 1968 Correct Craft that we got from my uncle (for free!). At some point, a fabricated steel tow cage was installed over the windshield area. I'll take a pic of it soon and post it. I love this boat. It sits so low in the water and sounds killer on the water! By the way, is the carburetor indeed the 2100? |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 6:17pm
Oh no, oh no, I hope this isn't a 1st gen ski that someone put a tower on.! Oh gee,z that might kill me  ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 6:42pm
David, I sure agree with Steve and am even wondering if you should post a picture of a classic with a tower. Steve, In David's first pictures, you can see side pockets so it may be a Cuda or Stang? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 7:31pm
Well, since it wasn't me who (possibly) mutilated it, I can't take any blame so lay down your stones, check it out, and opine       
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 7:31pm
Indeed it is an Autolite 2100
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 7:32pm
Indeed it is an Autolite 2100 Oops double post, I was too distracted thinking about Pete and Skutsch simultaneously having "the big one" when they saw the pictures. It your boat, do what you want with it and enjoy it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 7:47pm
I'm still alive! David, Ken is correct that it is your boat, you got it for free so lets get it running so you can enjoy it. The model is a Barracuda. BTW, it's not as bad as the wood Atom that had a home made steel tower on it! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 8:45pm
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Pete is seeing red so bad he thinks a Mustang is a 'Cuda ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 8:48pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 9:12pm
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That's a Doozy, lol. Not sure if you have ever pulled a wakeboarder with your boat yet, if not be aware that if you have a big guy back there and he takes a hard pull from wide out that tiny hull is about going to end up on it's side and you will really need to drive that thing to keep it going where you were previously aimed. Brave of you to post those pics though, great job!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 9:39pm
Guys, help a noob out. I'm not getting the Barracuda/Mustang jokes
Brave or naive, quinner  I now see I'm in the purist's den  My 6'8" brother wakeboards behind it. We're skinny, though, so I haven't noticed any dangerous pulls yet. I'll be sure to have that possibility on my radar, though, thanks! I realize this boats not in the best shape. Sooner rather than later, I'd like to reupholster the engine cover, put new carpet in and get some dash gauges working. As of right now, only the rpms works 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 9:59pm
How are the stringers? That would be my concern before you go after the cosmetics. Do you know when the last time an engine/prop shaft/strut alignment was done? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 10:20pm
Crap, I just Googled what stringers are and I'm pretty nervous. After I finish tuning up the engine, I will do the research on exactly how I figure out the condition of the stringers. As far as the alignment goes, I'm sure it has not been done in a long time. I imagine that something I should probably take it to our local boat mechanic for? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 10:36pm
Yours is a Mustang somewhat different from a Cuda Here is a Cuda-  And a gratuitous picture of my Mustang-  Cuda is a bit longer and wider but the big tell tail sign is smooth hull under the gunnel. A Mustang like yours and mine has the molded in "flash" right under it's gunnel. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 10:50pm
David, Have you found the FAQ thread in the maintenance section yet? Lots of links to great threads on almost any subject. Check it out and if you don't find an answer, we're always around to help out. There's even a link to a fantastic thread by Tim Morfoot on how to check the stringers. There's even a video in it. Regarding the alignment, it should be checked and most here do it themselves but, the condition of the stringers could influence alignment. If the stringers are bad, then they may not hold the engine position. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 1:29am
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Great lookin boat. Love the color. THANK the lord it is not a Gen 1... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 2:25am
oh boy...you can talk to your computer and it will do what you want it to? no more f12 for this guy! john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 9:36am
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And a gratuitous picture of my Mustang- [/QUOTE] Gary, your 'Stang is gorgeous! I am now inspired to someday restore mine to a (hopefully) similar glory... with a sweet tower on it, though Let's just hope it doesn't take ten years to start like it did Pete Pete, thanks for the info and I'll definitely be checking that out after I get the engine tuned up. I'm so excited to work on it. Too bad I'll have to spend this Sunday with my mom I can only hope the stringers are good, but with the condition the boats in, I'm a little concerned. Oh well, one thing at a time, I guess. By the way, are boats "shes"? Are you supposed to name yours? |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 10:01am
I believe that to be the general rule/guideline. Unless it is a ship of war - they always seem to be named for men. I guess a lot of cargo ships too, so maybe not, all though even boats named after men are still referred to "She." You're right it is pretty confusing... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 11:59am
| That shade of green when wet sanded and buffed out will be way cool. Enjoy the process of restoration. But be careful.....it may start to consume you and you will want more and more and more! |
Posted By: vandykd3
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 1:24pm
Thanks and I agree.  To clarify, these boats are made of wood and fiberglass, right? So the sides are paint on fiberglass? How about the white top? I used to refinish cars so I've got a 7"/9" buffing/grinding wheel and an orbital polisher to sic on it. Not familiar with wet sanding, but I'm only a YouTube education away from feeling trained  It's way more fun to day dream about cosmetics because after I read the threads on stringers, I'm ***************g scared!
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Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: May-11-2017 at 1:33pm
Fiberglass hull. The only wood is in the framework in the bottom of the hull, i.e. the stringers and associated framework, Footboard and in your case, front seat frames (maybe?) are wood. If the boat has not been messed with, there is no paint. The hull and deck are gel coat on fiberglass. Looks to be factory colors so I would say it is still the original gel coat. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |